A designer's minimal Reef

[Nstocks]

Hello!

 

As a short introduction, I'm a designer based in England and have recently began my dream of keeping a reef aquarium. I've kept tropical fish in the past and looked into saltwater many years but just recently decided to make it a reality

 

I'm a great believer in minimal design that does away with clutter and distractions so that emphasise is put on what really matters, which in this case is a reef.

 

Equipment
Display: 650 x 650 x 330mm (25.6 x 25.6 x 13") / 140 Litres / 37 US Gallons / 10mm Optiwhite
Sump: 400 x 550 x 400 (15.75 x 21.6 x 15.75")

Skimmer: Bubble Magus Curve 5
Return Pump: Eheim Compact+ 2000
Heater:
ATO:
RO/DI Chamber: 16 Litres / 4.3 Gallons
Flow:
Lighting:

So there's an overall scope of the project. I'm waiting for confirmation on some of the glass detailing which will be ordered next week. Equipment is to be determined, main goals other than livestock husbandry is it must be very quiet and moderately priced.

Nathan

[aviator300]

Sounds great. Keep us posted with photos as your merchandise arrives and in the meantime we would be happy to answer any questions you may have or help in any way. AVIATOR

[Nstocks]

I've almost completed the design and I'm ready to order the glass. Could somebody give me feedback on the comb/overflow design please? The idea is to use 10mm glass to support the overflow box, which will be covered with 5mm acrylic to house the weir comb and overflow outlet.

 

 

[Nstocks]

I'm also going to cut the outlet grate into the acrylic with CNC like the teeth. How could I fix the return pipe to the acrylic if I left the acrylic flush? Would I need to cut out the hole entirely and fix a bulkhead to it instead? (The acrylic is frosted opal so some outlines of darker pipework will be seen. I've yet to test the acrylic on glass to get a smooth, bubble free adhesion)

[Nstocks]

I've mocked up the tank do I can see how it will look and how my aquascaping idea will work.

 

I'm not too happy about the weir box taking up so much space, so I might take 50mm off the tank height, or add 100mm to the length and width. The only problem with keeping the current 350mm height is the rock work will end up being too large (Island to hide weir) in order to create a stepped slope...

 

Hmmm. These are my only options really - I don't want any external pipe work

 

[smiz]

Awesome start and great planning! following along!

[Nstocks]

I'm changing the dimensions slightly and the new volume will me approx. 135L.

 

Would 20mm plumbing be sufficient for this tank, instead of the current 1inch? That's two 20mm standpipe drains and one 20mm return.

 

Sump will hold approx, 50 litres with a Bubble Magus 3.5 and Eheim Compact+ 2000 (1,000 - 2,000 litres per hour).

 

I'm trying to reduce the weir box a little more, but will test the plumbing to ensure there is enough room for ball valves etc.

[k427]

Need more 'minimal' designs like this. I will be interested to see the final product, good luck.

 

The 20mm sounds a bit small, if anything you should try to oversize where possible. But if you know what your return pump you're using and the exchange you're wanting, use this calculator to get an estimation of what's required, http://reefcentral.com/index.php/drainoverflow-size-calc

[Nstocks]

Need more 'minimal' designs like this. I will be interested to see the final product, good luck.

 

The 20mm sounds a bit small, if anything you should try to oversize where possible. But if you know what your return pump you're using and the exchange you're wanting, use this calculator to get an estimation of what's required, http://reefcentral.com/index.php/drainoverflow-size-calc

 

I'm planning on using a Ehiem compact+ 2000 which is 1,000 to 2,000 litres per hour.

 

There will be two 90 degree elbows, one ball valve and one check valve. Height to top of return line in aquarium is 4 feet. Image below is using a 1250 litres per hour pump.

 

I've put in 200 gallons to the reef central calculator and it gave me:

Recommended minimum drain pipe diameter = 0.58 inches (15mm)

Recommended minimum linear overflow size = 3 inches

 

Does this mean 20mm is enough? (though internal diameter is around 18mm)

 

[Wiinberg]

20mm piping can handle 1200 l/h without pressure in free fall. Much more with pressure. You'll be fine.

[Nstocks]

Has there been much success with this type of overflow? Combs are commonly used because they are easily available and are good for preventing livestock entering the overflow bow, but I believe the teeth actually reduce surface skimming.

 

The slot is 20mm from the top of the weir cover, which is the same level as the top of the aquarium, meaning the water line will be 20mm from the top of the aquarium. Would this be too high? The slot is at 10mm high, but may increase to 12 or 15mm.

 

This will be made out of 5mm acrylic and cut by machine. The hole in the centre is to house the return line - possibly clear loc line that will be angled downwards to prevent back flow.

 

It's likely I will also be putting a lid on the weir box too.

 

[Nstocks]

I've created a rough mockup of my idea for the weir design which can be viewed here:

 

In reviewing the design I've found a few adaptions:

 

1) Reducing the overall height of the weir box so there is a 10mm gap between the top of the aquarium - this is mainly a visual change because the glass isn't going to be perfectly square so the acrylic will look odd due to the different profiles. (unlike the MDF model)

 

2) Reducing the skimming slot to 8mm high so there is lesser chance of livestock getting into the overflow.

 

3) Rather than using the conventional glass weir for support, which is then faced with acrylic I've come up with the idea of creating the entire overflow box out of 5mm acrylic so that it is a singular unit (a box). Doing so will provide a much stronger construction since it's supported on all sides. I will likely silicon the base and two sides or possibly use magnets.

 

4) Next I need to design a lid for the weir. Not sure how I will do it quite yet, it's mainly to hide the pipework when viewed from the top.

 

Let me know what you think!

 

[farkwar]

If you have snails, going to have, you want to bring back those teeth in the overflow.

 

You want overflow to skim the surface water, that why your first design is better. If your little slot goes under water, you wont be skimming the surface film.

 

 

 

I would use thicker acrylic than 5mm. Like at least 10mm on the side facing the tank.

 

Remember glass to acrylic silicone joints are pretty weak joints. I assume that's why you are making an acrylic containing box.

[Nstocks]

If you have snails, going to have, you want to bring back those teeth in the overflow.

 

Snails are my main concern and I don't want any crabs so my CUC without these would be 2-3 cleaner shrimp...

 

I could glue a clear mesh onto the slots, but cleaning this may not be very easy. In my test, surface skimming is incredible - far more effective than the teeth I've seen in person and in videos which is why I want the slot.

 

Edit after previous reply:

 

So keep the top of the acrylic to the same height of the glass aquarium (thus raising the water level). Also keep the slot 10mm high?

 

10mm opal frosted acrylic does exist but I'm not going to make this weir myself so would need to find fabricators that also supply 10mm.

 

Exactly; glass and acrylic don't adhere well so the box will hold the pressure far better than just one sheet of acrylic. I think beads of silicone or magnets would be plenty strong enough.

[aviator300]

I don't understand half of what's being said but i'm really enjoying following along. This should be one fantastic build thread and i'll continue to follow.

 

Thank you Nstocks for sharing your project with us. AVIATOR

[Psychosis]

Snails are my main concern and I don't want any crabs so my CUC without these would be 2-3 cleaner shrimp...

 

I could glue a clear mesh onto the slots, but cleaning this may not be very easy. In my test, surface skimming is incredible - far more effective than the teeth I've seen in person and in videos which is why I want the slot.

 

Edit after previous reply:

 

So keep the top of the acrylic to the same height of the glass aquarium (thus raising the water level). Also keep the slot 10mm high?

 

10mm opal frosted acrylic does exist but I'm not going to make this weir myself so would need to find fabricators that also supply 10mm.

 

Exactly; glass and acrylic don't adhere well so the box will hold the pressure far better than just one sheet of acrylic. I think beads of silicone or magnets would be plenty strong enough.

 

I for one appreciate the design in its current form. In regard to the size of the slots, it has been my extensive, exhausting experience that if any of your livestock wants to get in to your overflow, seemingly regardless of design, it will find a way to do so. In simpler terms, I'd recommend staying the course at 10mm. One option you may have, if incorporating magnets, would be to cut multiple smaller slots so that you can adjust the height of the weir within the display. For example, four separate slots cut at a thickness of 5mm. If you adjust the size of the acrylic guard so that it fits just inside of the box, held in place with the magnets, you can then simply slide it up or down to adjust the water level.

 

That said, have you looked in to an external overflow? I know you don't want any exposed plumbing, but a simple stand redesign can rectify that. If mounted externally, a coast to coast weir provides superior surface skimming, and using the bean animal design is both silent and highly adjustable. The only visible evidence of an overflow left in the display is a long slot cut in to the bank pane of glass. Just a thought, since it fits nearly every one of your criteria, and would be less intrusive.

[Nstocks]

I for one appreciate the design in its current form. In regard to the size of the slots, it has been my extensive, exhausting experience that if any of your livestock wants to get in to your overflow, seemingly regardless of design, it will find a way to do so. In simpler terms, I'd recommend staying the course at 10mm. One option you may have, if incorporating magnets, would be to cut multiple smaller slots so that you can adjust the height of the weir within the display. For example, four separate slots cut at a thickness of 5mm. If you adjust the size of the acrylic guard so that it fits just inside of the box, held in place with the magnets, you can then simply slide it up or down to adjust the water level. That said, have you looked in to an external overflow? I know you don't want any exposed plumbing, but a simple stand redesign can rectify that. If mounted externally, a coast to coast weir provides superior surface skimming, and using the bean animal design is both silent and highly adjustable. The only visible evidence of an overflow left in the display is a long slot cut in to the bank pane of glass. Just a thought, since it fits nearly every one of your criteria, and would be less intrusive.

 

I think the acrylic box will be designed ready for fabrication only after the aquarium has been built. I want to make sure that it will fit perfectly and also see how I can have the edges of the glass finished.

 

I've looked at external overflows but it's just not something I like. The coast to coast, even at full height of the tank like the AIO tanks have would be easier but I think there is greater visual depth leaving the pack panel as clear and as exposed as possible.

 

I can finally order the tank now

[k4ndyk1ng]

following along, looking forward to this

[Miguel Burguete]

Hey!

 

I am about to build something similar. Here it go my idea. It is also for a cube and also concerning the aesthetic issue!

 

http://postimage.org/'>

Miguel

[Nstocks]

 

Hey!

 

I am about to build something similar. Here it go my idea. It is also for a cube and also concerning the aesthetic issue!

 

Miguel

 

Hey!

 

These cubes are becoming quite popular aren't they

 

Have you started a thread? I originally designed my overflow like you have, but managed to save a little space by filleting the corners.

[masterbuilder]

I would go back to the teeth in the overflow. Helps keep fish, snails and other critters out of the overflow. Also allows for some fluctuation/adjustment in water height. Just a couple of reasons teeth are widely used.

 

Nice design...look forward to the build.

[frags]

I would keep the corner as the overflow, but I would make the weir with no teeth. To prevent snails simply put a screen on the overflow piping. Unless you have had a overflow weir without teeth u won't understand how much more it skims!

[frags]

Here is the link to my old build and you can see how I made the screenhttp://www.nano-reef.com/topic/319198-fragsreef-floating-40-breeder-sps-tank/page-11

 

People said it would clog but it worked over a year...I think I cleaned them 2 times..I had a bean animal the best I think but you could fit a herbie design in that space.

[Miguel Burguete]

Hey!

 

These cubes are becoming quite popular aren't they

 

Have you started a thread? I originally designed my overflow like you have, but managed to save a little space by filleting the corners.

Hey

 

I love them yes. By since I have not the total investment that it would need I am buying it slow. Already ordered the tank yes, but not created the thread.

 

I want the skimming slot to have 5mm so I asked them to make two skimming slots, one above the other. The second one is just for precaution.

 

I will have only one hole in the bottom inside the corner overflow so it will be a small corner loss I believe.

 

Good luck on the tank.

 

Here is the link to my old build and you can see how I made the screenhttp://www.nano-reef.com/topic/319198-fragsreef-floating-40-breeder-sps-tank/page-11 People said it would clog but it worked over a year...I think I cleaned them 2 times..I had a bean animal the best I think but you could fit a here design in that space.

 

 

Hey! Great idea, I will use it if you don't mind.

 

Sorry about posting confusion, a little problem in my computer..

[Nstocks]

I would keep the corner as the overflow, but I would make the weir with no teeth. To prevent snails simply put a screen on the overflow piping. Unless you have had a overflow weir without teeth u won't understand how much more it skims!

 

I won't be using any teeth, I was just going to use a slot as shown below. The reason for 'housing' the slot is to accommodate the return pipe which will be built into the weir box, as opposed to having it stick above and down the acrylic sheet. I could still have the water pass over the acrylic, cutting the top off as shown below (dotted guide line). I understand that the return line can be fully submerged anyway, as long as there is enough space in the sump to hold the back siphon, should the return pump fail. Not quite sure how to calculate how much extra water the sump can hold though - based on 20mm extra water height, the sump needs to accommodate 12 more litres, if the return fails)

 

I have plenty of time to figure this out - tank will take 6 weeks to build . (Though I plan on cycling the water/rock during that time )