Jump to content
Innovative Marine Aquariums

Radioactive Dragoneye Round 2


ackattackkk

Recommended Posts

First time had no success. Now I tried it agian. Have button polyps, trumpet coral, pink zoas all open .Clownfish and Cardinal are fine. All my water tests are pretty much perfect except mg i dont have a test.

 

-Yesterday-

20140826_185948.jpg

-Today- Everything else is open but the radioactives

ess1409174164467.jpg

Link to comment

Did you dip them and check for pests before putting them in the tank?

 

What lighting do you have, and how far away is it? New additions generally get put on the sandbed and moved up an inch or two per week until they're in their final position.

 

I should also mention that the polyps below this colony are technically open, but not looking particularly happy about it. Do you have photos of the rest of the corals, to gauge how happy they are with water quality?

 

And do you have a list of the test results with numbers, so we can see them just in case?

Link to comment

Did you dip them and check for pests before putting them in the tank?

 

What lighting do you have, and how far away is it? New additions generally get put on the sandbed and moved up an inch or two per week until they're in their final position.

 

I should also mention that the polyps below this colony are technically open, but not looking particularly happy about it. Do you have photos of the rest of the corals, to gauge how happy they are with water quality?

 

And do you have a list of the test results with numbers, so we can see them just in case?

no I just have API master and reef master kits. Heard a lot of negative about them now though but I can post pictures of results. I'm using a reefbreeders light about 8 inches from surface same light lfs use on their frag tanks
Link to comment

Is that a no to the dipping, to photos of other corals, or to the test results? API still has numbers next to the color results, I'm sure you can give us those. :] If you can get a clear photo of the results, that should be okay as well. Still, though, better test kits for alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium should probably be on your list of things to get before delving into more difficult corals.

 

Do you know how strong the PAR is for the lights? Or have an idea of how far away the tank has its zoas, at the very least? And have you tried putting the zoas on the sandbed to see if they'll open up after a day or two?

Link to comment

It was a no to the list lol. Ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrates can't tell between 0 and 10 colors look the same lol. I can give pics of other corala. And yes I dipped with revive. Moved them to sand bed after your first message :). I'll keep you posted on if they open

Link to comment

Good luck! Hopefully they open up for you! It's totally possible that your lighting was too strong; zoas can acclimate to all sorts of lighting, but you generally want to start off with 50PAR or so and move them up. I looked up the PAR readings on the reefbreeders value fixture, assuming that's either the one you have or lower in intensity than the rest of them.

 

With no optics, 24" below the light, the PAR goes from 150 directly below the light to 75 12" perpendicular from it. Those numbers get a lot higher with the optics. So without optics, you'll be able to grow anything up to low-mid light SPS, and with the optics you'll be able to grow clams and other crazy photosynthetic things. Which light did you get, exactly?

Link to comment

I got the Reef Breeders Value fixture. I have a standard 29 gallon tank. I actually think they will open. I can see into the middle now where before they were completely closed. :)

Link to comment

Place the frag on the sandbed at first and only raise it to the higher area after it fully open.

 

The most important thing is leave it alone. Try not to move the around too much.

Link to comment

Zoas are zoas. Sometimes they live, sometimes they up and die for "no reason" (there is always a reason, we just don't know it all the time). I had some gorgeous radioactive dragon eyes and they were happy all the time until one morning. My water quality was fine, everything else was doing ok, but they just took a dive and died over a couple of week period.

Link to comment

Zoas are zoas. Sometimes they live, sometimes they up and die for "no reason" (there is always a reason, we just don't know it all the time). I had some gorgeous radioactive dragon eyes and they were happy all the time until one morning. My water quality was fine, everything else was doing ok, but they just took a dive and died over a couple of week period.

Mine started off full bloom then the next day turned the lights on and they never opened up .Now a week later they are slowly coming open more and more

Link to comment

Yeah, that was probably too much light at first. Always good to start lower light and move them up. If you want them up on the rocks and not on the sand bed, you can always dim your lights to like 30% and slowly bring them back up over a week or so.

Link to comment

Through my experience, zoas will sometimes close up for a week and maybe a little longer after being dipped. Especially if the polyps were not completely closed before taking them out of the water and submersing them into the dip solution.

Link to comment

Through my experience, zoas will sometimes close up for a week and maybe a little longer after being dipped. Especially if the polyps were not completely closed before taking them out of the water and submersing them into the dip solution.

That could have been what happened. My other zoas are fully open and so is my trumpet. This is my second time trying the radioactives first time was not a success :(.

Link to comment

That could have been what happened. My other zoas are fully open and so is my trumpet. This is my second time trying the radioactives first time was not a success :(.

That would be my guess. If that is what it was they should recover okay. Just remember next time to make sure they close up tightly before removing them from the water and definitely before you put them in a dip solution.

Link to comment

I like to say Zoa's have the temper of a 4 year old. One minute they're happy,the next they're pissed. If they ever close up on you and stayed closed up,try a freshwater dip for about 45 seconds to a minute. I had a big colony of Zoa's close up and get covered in algae,dipped them,the next day every polyp was open.

 

Just start them out on the bottom of the tank,if they stretched,slowly move them up. If they shift colors and fade,slowly move down.

Link to comment

I like to say Zoa's have the temper of a 4 year old. One minute they're happy,the next they're pissed. If they ever close up on you and stayed closed up,try a freshwater dip for about 45 seconds to a minute. I had a big colony of Zoa's close up and get covered in algae,dipped them,the next day every polyp was open.

 

Just start them out on the bottom of the tank,if they stretched,slowly move them up. If they shift colors and fade,slowly move down.

Is that what is happening to mine? If you look in the first picture they are green and then the last picture they are bright neon yellow.

Link to comment

If they shift colors,that's one thing. If they lose colors like my Hawaiians did,they had speckles centers and I put them in high light and they lost all their colors. Literally there was no color on any polyp.

 

If they morph,let it. But closing up and fading will result in a loss in color. Closing up is a sign of a bunch of different things. Are you using leds ?

Link to comment

If they shift colors,that's one thing. If they lose colors like my Hawaiians did,they had speckles centers and I put them in high light and they lost all their colors. Literally there was no color on any polyp.

 

If they morph,let it. But closing up and fading will result in a loss in color. Closing up is a sign of a bunch of different things. Are you using leds ?

yeah reefbreeders. I kinda like the color they are now lol kinda look like a yellow highlighter in the blue lights

Link to comment

Gotcha. My RDE's change as well,when they aren't shaded they are dark green centers and very bright green skirts,when they are shaded they have bright green centers super bright yellow skirts.

 

So it all depends. Like my Lunar's have morphed about 3 times,now it has orange skirts,and the center went from dark gray/black to turning orange which is cool. My Sunny D's are morphing along with a bunch of other frags. While some maintain their colors. Like my Pink Milli has gone from Pink to red to reddish pink,to brown now it's back at a pinkish red. It all depends on your tank:lights,flow,nutrients,stability ect ect.

Link to comment

Gotcha. My RDE's change as well,when they aren't shaded they are dark green centers and very bright green skirts,when they are shaded they have bright green centers super bright yellow skirts.

 

So it all depends. Like my Lunar's have morphed about 3 times,now it has orange skirts,and the center went from dark gray/black to turning orange which is cool. My Sunny D's are morphing along with a bunch of other frags. While some maintain their colors. Like my Pink Milli has gone from Pink to red to reddish pink,to brown now it's back at a pinkish red. It all depends on your tank:lights,flow,nutrients,stability ect ect.

Thats awesome. Its gonna be fun to watch them change. I am pretty new to the hobby so I havent got to experience what all it has to offer.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recommended Discussions

×
×
  • Create New...