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Dryland

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Thats a good idea, I think I will do the same, thanks! So you like kent salt mix? Clearly your tank is proof that it must be good stuff.

 

Yes I do- I've always been a Reef Crystal guy but I've been really happy with the Kent- and it's really cheap.

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I notice that my barium is in the red, which was one of the trouble elements mentioned in the MACNA presentation. Ehsan stated that M. Digitata will consume barium -it looks like I have an excuse to get more coral!

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Deleted User 8

Dryland, not asking to be convinced, just genuinely curious. :huh: I am just wondering how a test that is weeks old will be of any real value as it pertains to dosing regimen. I believe our systems just are not that stable. I would posit that if you tested your water today, the parameters would be different. Is there something to the system that accounts for this issue? Do you think it is even a concern? If you wouldn't mind sharing your thoughts on this issue, I would appreciate it.

 

Thanks,

Buzz

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Sure Buzz, I would be happy to share my thoughts, and for the sake of clarity I would like to add that that is all they are -I don't want to give the impression that my anecdotal experience as a reef hobbyist is superior to anyone else's. I largely agree with what you have said; the amount of variation in our small systems is significant enough to make a literal recreation of oceanic parameters difficult. I do not expect to achieve and maintain perfect parameters, but I do think there is merit in heading that direction. By seeing this picture of my parameters, and by taking several more, I hope to get a sense of the tendencies of my specific aquarium. This will assist me in choosing quality materials (salt mixes, supplements, foods).

 

So now that I have answered some of your questions, I have one for you. Besides $50, what have I lost by getting the test done?

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Thanks Dryland. I suppose you have not really lost anything at this point. Had not really thought about it in those terms. $50 in this hobby isn't something to sweat necessarily. I would probably pay that for such a detailed lab workup--if the results were more timely.

 

I will be following along here, hoping the best of course. I look forward to hearing of your progress. I'm very interested in this, specifically how it relates to how important it is having a system that matches natural sea water as close as possible vs the minimums needed to keep livestock that thrive.

 

Buzz

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Thanks Dryland. I suppose you have not really lost anything at this point. Had not really thought about it in those terms. $50 in this hobby isn't something to sweat necessarily. I would probably pay that for such a detailed lab workup--if the results were more timely.

 

I will be following along here, hoping the best of course. I look forward to hearing of your progress. I'm very interested in this, specifically how it relates to how important it is having a system that matches natural sea water as close as possible vs the minimums needed to keep livestock that thrive.

 

Buzz

 

I will admit there is also an aspect of novelty involved. You should look into

other presentation from MACNA. The speaker had some really interesting things to say about keeping potassium at higher than normal concentrations (like 3x) and also raising iron in tandem. Thanks for following along Buzz, I appreciate your contribution.
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The results are in!

 

Nice - I am gonna have to brush up on my elements - how was your Strontium and potassium - were those Sn and Pb? Are you goin to run a few test and see how things change? Pretty extensive break down . I'd almost like to have a freshly mixed batch of salt analyzed too

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My strontium (Sr) was 9.54 mg/L and potassium (K) 464.10. Pb is lead and the only way I know that is because in Latin lead is called plumbum, because the Romans used it for plumbing. I think I may switch salt mixes anyhow, so I may wait and test again after I've completely cycled out the old mix.

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Sr is Strontium and Pb is lead. Potassium is K. Buzz

Thx Buzz!

 

My strontium (Sr) was 9.54 mg/L and potassium (K) 464.10. Pb is lead and the only way I know that is because in Latin lead is called plumbum, because the Romans used it for plumbing. I think I may switch salt mixes anyhow, so I may wait and test again after I've completely cycled out the old mix.

What salt are you using?- what kind do u want to switch to
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I buy from my LFS and they use reef crystals. You use reef crystals too right? Honestly I haven't given it a lot of thought yet, but since my tank is so small I kind of like the idea of trying a higher end mix. I'll let you know when I make up my mind. I have noticed that the salinity of my LFS water tends to jump around, which is one of the reasons I want to start mixing my own again.

 

My PO4 was in the red, but I have added GFO to the reactor since sending in the sample. Pest algae has receded visibly, so I assume it's headed down. My M. Setosa has also regained a lot of it's color since adding the GFO.

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I buy from my LFS and they use reef crystals. You use reef crystals too right? Honestly I haven't given it a lot of thought yet, but since my tank is so small I kind of like the idea of trying a higher end mix. I'll let you know when I make up my mind. I have noticed that the salinity of my LFS water tends to jump around, which is one of the reasons I want to start mixing my own again.

 

My PO4 was in the red, but I have added GFO to the reactor since sending in the sample. Pest algae has receded visibly, so I assume it's headed down. My M. Setosa has also regained a lot of it's color since adding the GFO.

 

I use Kent- probably not the best but it's what my lfs store uses so all the frags I buy there grew up with this salt. I buy my RoDi from them so I try to keep my environment the same as what the coral have been used to. I used to run RC but never really liked it that much- wasn't as consistent. The Kent salt is really predictable- I just add some Mg. To bring those levels up for a W/C. Careful with the GFO- it will strip your tank pretty fast- I usually run it 5-10 days a month depending on my PO4. How are you running it- I use a reactor so it's very efficient

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I use Kent- probably not the best but it's what my lfs store uses so all the frags I buy there grew up with this salt. I buy my RoDi from them so I try to keep my environment the same as what the coral have been used to. I used to run RC but never really liked it that much- wasn't as consistent. The Kent salt is really predictable- I just add some Mg. To bring those levels up for a W/C. Careful with the GFO- it will strip your tank pretty fast- I usually run it 5-10 days a month depending on my PO4. How are you running it- I use a reactor so it's very efficient

 

I have mine in a reactor with AC. I have read that about GFO, so I made sure to undercut the recommended amount for my volume. The reactor is the only automated filtration I am running. I currently don't do any testing besides the occasional salinity reading (and the Triton of course), but I intend to start monitoring PO4 and Alk with the Hanna checkers.

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Nice , your on it- how's that sea fan doing? Let's see some more pics

 

I'm going to see if I can rent a camera today and do a photo update.

 

I was looking over the Triton results again this a.m. and realized that my PO4 actually wasn't measurable, and I think this is why it was in the red. I am surprised that my PO4 was so low, especially prior to introducing the GFO. Now I really want that Hanna checker.

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I'm going to see if I can rent a camera today and do a photo update.

 

I was looking over the Triton results again this a.m. and realized that my PO4 actually wasn't measurable, and I think this is why it was in the red. I am surprised that my PO4 was so low, especially prior to introducing the GFO. Now I really want that Hanna checker.

Ya if your Po4 is that low I would remove the GFO- no need for it and it will strip the water even more. I am not totally sold on my Hanna cker for Po4- test can vary quite a bit

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Ya if your Po4 is that low I would remove the GFO- no need for it and it will strip the water even more. I am not totally sold on my Hanna cker for Po4- test can vary quite a bit

 

Unfortunately, I'm limited in my options for test kits. I am somewhat red-green colorblind, which also makes blue and purple hard to differentiate, so digital is a must. I only have about 1/2 a teaspoon of GFO in the reactor. Now that I think back the test may have been performed shortly after I added the GFO, which coincided with a water change. That could explain the undetectable P and PO4 levels.

 

I feed mysis weekly, dose 1/4-1/2ml of acropower daily and also feed dry food to my two fish. I think I'm going to leave the GFO in for the time being, but I will keep an eye on the monti frag as an indicator until I get a PO4 kit.

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What species of gorgonian is that? Looks awesome.

 

Thanks! I believe it is Pterogorgia Anceps, the "purple sea blade". It gets super-fluffy when I dose acropower.

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Deleted User 8

Wow,that is cool! Reminds me of a desert scene. Like some gnarly cactus.

 

Sucks being color blind. Knew a drummer once that had a beautiful set of drums made of red tiger stripe maple. Most beautiful wood drums i have ever seen. He thought they were ugly. Bought them based on sound only!

 

Buzz

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Wow,that is cool! Reminds me of a desert scene. Like some gnarly cactus. Sucks being color blind. Knew a drummer once that had a beautiful set of drums made of red tiger stripe maple. Most beautiful wood drums i have ever seen. He thought they were ugly. Bought them based on sound only! Buzz

 

 

The purple sea blade is beautiful - looks like it's doing really well! Ya digital is probably your best bet then for test kits

 

Thanks guys! Yeah, the sea blade reminds me of a cactus too. It seems pretty healthy, but isn't quite so purple as when I bought it (6 or 7 months ago). It could be a lighting issue. I have plans to upgrade to a nanobox fixture in the near future, so we shall see.

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