RO/DI extracting question

[Noobeef]

So I have a 150 gallon tank and I am considering taking the plunge into a RO/DI system, but I'm doing the math and I need to do 35 gallon water changes and watching the water trickle out of the little spigot for 35 gallons seems like more of a chore than simply going down the hill to the store to get the water. Not only that, but the reservoir on most of the units is only like 4-5 gallons so I would have to wait to fill up the jugs once the reservoir ran out. Am I missing something here? I am a complete noob when it comes to these units, but we recently had a slab leak and the cabinet on my wet bar (where the unit would be stored) needed to be redone (insurance covered it). I know it sounds handy for top offs, but do you hook up a bigger reservoir to the unit or something?

[markalot]

So I have a 150 gallon tank and I am considering taking the plunge into a RO/DI system, but I'm doing the math and I need to do 35 gallon water changes and watching the water trickle out of the little spigot for 35 gallons seems like more of a chore than simply going down the hill to the store to get the water. Not only that, but the reservoir on most of the units is only like 4-5 gallons so I would have to wait to fill up the jugs once the reservoir ran out. Am I missing something here? I am a complete noob when it comes to these units, but we recently had a slab leak and the cabinet on my wet bar (where the unit would be stored) needed to be redone (insurance covered it). I know it sounds handy for top offs, but do you hook up a bigger reservoir to the unit or something?

 

You make water and store it, like in 32 gallon Brute garbage cans with wheels. I think 35 gallon water changes are pretty big for a 150 unless you don't have a good skimmer. I usually to 10 gallon changes every week and all is doing well ... so far.

 

I have two 32 gallon Brutes, one for Salt and one for RO/DI only. Typically every other weekend or so I'll set a timer and fill up one of the cans, the timer reminding me to check on it from time to time.

[TristanC]

Most people have their ro/di go into a brute trash can (food grade) for water changes of that size. It would take the better part of a day to get that much water with your standard ro/di but you wouldn't need to watch it the whole time.

 

edit: what he said ^ beat me to it.

[farkwar]

Get a Norwesco water tank and pump.

 

 

You could fill 50 gallons in a few minutes with a good pump.

 

Run your RODI to that, float switch in tank. Get 2, one salt, one fresh if you want to go the right way.

[Noobeef]

You make water and store it, like in 32 gallon Brute garbage cans with wheels. I think 35 gallon water changes are pretty big for a 150 unless you don't have a good skimmer. I usually to 10 gallon changes every week and all is doing well ... so far.

 

I have two 32 gallon Brutes, one for Salt and one for RO/DI only. Typically every other weekend or so I'll set a timer and fill up one of the cans, the timer reminding me to check on it from time to time.

But I still want to have the normal faucet because that's how I'm selling it to my wife, that we can save money on drinking water. Would I be running the RO/DI unit directly into the trash can, or would I be running it into the faucet and then the faucet into the garbage can?

[jedimasterben]

You don't want to be running RO/DI anywhere but its destination, and on top of that, RO/DI is terribly expensive and terrible tasting drinking water. You'll want to run RO only to a small faucet hooked up to a small storage tank in a way that you can be sure no water from the tank ever touches your DI resin. Keep in mind that running them this way (making small amounts frequently) kills your RO membrane much faster than making large amounts infrequently, though you'll want to make at least 10g weekly.

[AZDesertRat]

You need to purchase a reef quality RO/DI system then add a drinking water kit which will be separated from the reef DI by a check valve so you have the best of both worlds.

 

Take a look at the diagram here and note the 1 psi check valve close to the pressure tank so you have pressurized RO fro drinking but the stored RO and its TDS creep in the tank cannot get to your DI resin.

 

http://spectrapure.com/huds/4-STAGE-DWK-RODI-NAG.pdf

[Noobeef]

You need to purchase a reef quality RO/DI system then add a drinking water kit which will be separated from the reef DI by a check valve so you have the best of both worlds.

 

Take a look at the diagram here and note the 1 psi check valve close to the pressure tank so you have pressurized RO fro drinking but the stored RO and its TDS creep in the tank cannot get to your DI resin.

 

http://spectrapure.com/huds/4-STAGE-DWK-RODI-NAG.pdf

 

Perfect. This is exactly what I was looking for...granted I'll have a plumber do it since I look at that and I see the schematics for a nuclear submarine.

[Noobeef]

Now another question is what if I just do RO as opposed to both RO/DI? I've read it's actually not terrible to do just RO water as opposed to both, and if you are going to pick just one, to do RO.

[jedimasterben]

For drinking, only use RO. For your reef, you should be using RO/DI.

[AZDesertRat]

RO is only 90-98% efficient so there are contaminants that will not be completely removed, plus RO is not particularly effective at things like phosphates, silicates and nitrates so RO/DI is your best choice.

 

I wouldn't have a plumber do the installation if you are the least bit handy. You will pay through the nose for something that is pretty simple and would only take you a short time. The only issue you might have is if you don't have an existing hole in your sink or counter top for the drinking water faucet but you can buy bits or hole saws for this purpose.

[Noobeef]

RO is only 90-98% efficient so there are contaminants that will not be completely removed, plus RO is not particularly effective at things like phosphates, silicates and nitrates so RO/DI is your best choice.

 

I wouldn't have a plumber do the installation if you are the least bit handy. You will pay through the nose for something that is pretty simple and would only take you a short time. The only issue you might have is if you don't have an existing hole in your sink or counter top for the drinking water faucet but you can buy bits or hole saws for this purpose.

 

Am I handy enough to do it? Probably. But I have a plumber coming out to my house anyway to replace a regulator and some other things. (Recently had a slab leak/flood). I asked him about it and he offered to install it for 100 bucks extra. I'd rather pay the 100 bucks than maybe mess up on something that would give my wife a reason to hate me for a week.

[lucindrea]

only a week lol .. after 24 years of marriage i can say a week is childs play