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PAR38 Dissection


NZMike

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So one of the crazy things I've been thinking about for a while is channelized control (Edit - using Bluefish or similar) of a PAR38. Now as far as I can tell, this may not have previously been attempted, but if anyone has any info or suggestions, please hop aboard.

 

First step was to find a candidate PAR38 lamp. I'd looked at the Coral Compulsion 40W range but the price put me off as this was just an experiment. So I began trolling the net and eventually came up with a PAR38 off a Chinese site which had more than a passing resemblance to the CC lamp mentioned above.

 

NOTE: In no way am I suggesting that the CC offering, and the lamp I got, are related in any way or that my Chinese lamp is comparable to CC's offering. This is not a comparative test.

 

The dissection will start in the next day or so, but here are some pics.

 

 

IMG_3434edit_zps499810e9.jpg

 

 

IMG_3432edit_zps59486aba.jpg

 

 

IMG_3430edit_zpsab348e01.jpg

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I've seen grow lights like that with remotes to control the light.

 

Yes indeed. I should have been more clear, by channelized control I meant with a Bluefish or similar controller.

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/following

 

Your idea crossed my mind yesterday actually. I know some fixtures have dimming abilities, but none really had controllability. Good luck. I can't wait to see the results :D

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jedimasterben

Basically all you'll need to do is strip out the driver, drill a hole into the base where you will run your new wiring, figure out the traces on the PCB and hope that you can alter them, do that alteration, wire them up to your new drivers, and boom.

 

 

(aka far too much work lol)

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Basically all you'll need to do is strip out the driver, drill a hole into the base where you will run your new wiring, figure out the traces on the PCB and hope that you can alter them, do that alteration, wire them up to your new drivers, and boom.

 

 

(aka far too much work lol)

 

Yep, that's exactly it, although I'd left the "boom" out.

 

I'd probably have a go at changing out some of the LEDs too and am interested to hear your thoughts on color combo's and drivers.

 

 

Oh dear god. Explosions are not wanted.

 

I'm with you JDH.

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jedimasterben

Yep, that's exactly it, although I'd left the "boom" out.

I didn't mean literally boom lol

 

I'd probably have a go at changing out some of the LEDs too and am interested to hear your thoughts on color combo's and drivers.

You'd have to figure out teh package of LEDs that are used on the PCB and then locate replacement LEDs that you'd want. The CC layout I designed is pretty killer if you like a good blue tone.

 

For drivers, LDD or bust.

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I didn't mean literally boom lol

 

You'd have to figure out teh package of LEDs that are used on the PCB and then locate replacement LEDs that you'd want. The CC layout I designed is pretty killer if you like a good blue tone.

 

For drivers, LDD or bust.

 

:) I know you didn't mean bang and fire and smoke and stuff...

 

I wanted to go with the CC colors and the guys I got it from do custom colors, but it just got too hard explaining what I wanted so I took the standard build so I could get cracking. Any guesses what the new CC colors are going to be?

 

I'd planned on LDD, thanks.

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jedimasterben

I wanted to go with the CC colors and the guys I got it from do custom colors, but it just got too hard explaining what I wanted so I took the standard build so I could get cracking. Any guesses what the new CC colors are going to be?

Not a new light, the one I designed previously. http://coralcompulsion.com/led-40w-18k-Tru

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Not a new light, the one I designed previously. http://coralcompulsion.com/led-40w-18k-Tru

 

Yep, I got that. I was speaking to the manufacturer about customization matching the CC 40W 18k and it just got too hard for them. They were only prepared to do three different LED colors so I abandoned that in favor of actually getting my hands on a lamp to tear apart, and went with their default offering.

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...and so begins the dissection. Apologies upfront for the less than perfect photos.

 

Four screws hold the assembly together and while tight, they didn't cause any challenge. As usual, my trusty assistant was on hand. Note the 12V cooling fan. I've not worked out if it runs constantly or is thermostatically controlled as I've not yet fired the lamp up.

 

IMG_3439edit_zps7b9bf0cc.jpg

 

 

IMG_3447edit_zps48e34405.jpg

 

 

The driver PCB is held in place by two screws, which again, while been tight, didn't present a challenge with no burring of the heads.

 

IMG_3446edit_zpsb3148f8e.jpg

 

 

IMG_3449edit_zpsd8f19edf.jpg

 

 

The 12V fan.

 

IMG_3440edit_zps7f33de1b.jpg

 

 

The LED heatsink assembly. Next move is to tear this apart to reveal the LED PCBs, but that's for later.

 

IMG_3445edit_zpsf82d52a6.jpg

 

 

 

 

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The optic unclips easily from the optic holder which in turn is held in place by a single screw. Once removed the LED PCB is accessible.

 

IMG_3453edit_zpsd89486c4.jpg

 

 

IMG_3455edit_zps5fc876d2.jpg

 

 

IMG_3456edit_zps21314017.jpg

 

 

IMG_3460edit_zpsd8bdae7c.jpg

 

 

IMG_3461edit_zps0dc31331.jpg

 

 

IMG_3457edit_zps318891d9.jpg

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Wow, they actually used 3535 LEDs. That's surprising.

 

I was pleasantly surprised myself.

 

 

 

I wonder if the spacing is the same.

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1355&cat=97

This is in your neck of the woods too! :-)

You might be able to fit LDD-L into that housing, which is all you really need for a small light like this.

 

Very interesting option pwreef. I knew about Cutter but had not seen that product. Seems they only do that one in that format. I'll drop them an email to find dimensions and other options out of interest.

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