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Coral Vue Hydros

Calling in wall tank owners


dylan1464

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Happy to say my in wall 180g build is almost done. I just need to ditch my current light set up which is kessil/t5 supplemental and replace it with (3) hydra 52s. Ok enough about the equipment and back to the build.

 

The tank is in the walk in my basement and behind the tank is my utility room. I just need to cut some moldings and frame it out and make some doors for above the tank so I can do regular maintenance. Now this is my problem. I'm not sure how I want to start for the moldings and I have no clue where to start for the doors.

 

I was hoping maybe I could get some ideas/guidance from someone who has done this type of biuld before. I know it's kinda hard to see what I'm working with. I don't have any recent pics of the tank on my new phone but I have an old pic when the tank was cycling.

 

image_zps9b48aa31.jpg

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can you install a sliding door above the tank that sweeps to the right?

 

or

 

 

flips up and allows you to latch onto the ceiling?

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can you install a sliding door above the tank that sweeps to the right?

 

or

 

 

flips up and allows you to latch onto the ceiling?

 

No sorry I don't think I can install a sliding door. As for a flip up door I also considered that but I was just concerned about the weight of a door that size. I was hoping to do 2 rectangular size doors that swing out.

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Personally i would have only had the tank showing, but in your case,I would get 1/2" plywood, waterproof it, put hinges on it and Sheetrock it. Get te hidden hinges and a hydraulic arm to hold it open during maintenance.

 

Ask chupa chupa. He's a jack of all trades and has an in wall.

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Your tank looks good.

051514a.jpg
I just put mine behind the wall. However, some of the cleanest looking in wall setups that I've seen are like yours.

Having the whole wall covered with faux stone can look really sharp. However, trim is pretty cheap, easy, and should look good too. After building the upper cabinet, I would trim around the whole project, to make it look like one cohesive unit. Finish with an optional bead of caulk between the trim and the tank.

For the upper cabinet, I'd add 2x4s to the top and outer sides (giving you an even surface area around the opening). Then I'd use 1x2s to cover the 2x4s (note, these will stick out about 1/4" past the drywall). Then cut upper, lower, and side 1x5 panels (for the two openings).* Make the 1x5s flush with the new 1x2s (which will extend 1/4" in front of the wall, and 1/4" past the back). Now you have your upper cabinet built. Finally, build and install simple frame and panel doors (made with 1x3s and plywood, plus some heavy duty hinges).

*It might look even sharper if you use 1x4 panels (to cover the inside edge of the 2x4s), then cover the 2x4 fronts and side panels with 1x3s (and a 1x4 for the center), rip cut to size.

Finish the 1x2s and 1x5s the same as your trim and door panels. This will provide a finished look, help to protect the wood, and tie everything together. Post pics when you get it done. It should look pretty sweet.

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So why do you need the doors? All the in walls I've seen just do the maintenance from the back room.

 

The tank is 24' deep i don't have super long arms lol plus its a lot easier to feed the tangs. Also rock/coral placement would be a lot easier because i can see what I'm doing in the front of the tank

 

A couple flat panels with magnets? Easy "off-on" with the magnets.

 

do you have any pics of what this will look like when done?

 

Your tank looks good.

 

051514a.jpg

I just put mine behind the wall. However, some of the cleanest looking in wall setups that I've seen are like yours.

 

Having the whole wall covered with faux stone can look really sharp. However, trim is pretty cheap, easy, and should look good too. After building the upper cabinet, I would trim around the whole project, to make it look like one cohesive unit. Finish with an optional bead of caulk between the trim and the tank.

 

For the upper cabinet, I'd add 2x4s to the top and outer sides (giving you an even surface area around the opening). Then I'd use 1x2s to cover the 2x4s (note, these will stick out about 1/4" past the drywall). Then cut upper, lower, and side 1x5 panels (for the two openings).* Make the 1x5s flush with the new 1x2s (which will extend 1/4" in front of the wall, and 1/4" past the back). Now you have your upper cabinet built. Finally, build and install simple frame and panel doors (made with 1x3s and plywood, plus some heavy duty hinges).

 

*It might look even sharper if you use 1x4 panels (to cover the inside edge of the 2x4s), then cover the 2x4 fronts and side panels with 1x3s (and a 1x4 for the center), rip cut to size.

 

Finish the 1x2s and 1x5s the same as your trim and door panels. This will provide a finished look, help to protect the wood, and tie everything together. Post pics when you get it done. It should look pretty sweet.

 

Thanks for the advice I'm def going to do some measuring over the weekend when i free up. The thing i hate about in wall builds is there so many options and possibilities with what you can do.

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A 180g is only 2' front to back and only 29" deep so you really don't need any doors at all if you have good access from the utility room. I've seen tanks much bigger than that with no doors above it and maintenance was absolutely no problem with them. Since you are going LED, it'll be super easy to lift the lighting out of the way to do maintenance from the back.

 

Not to mention it looks much, much better then the entire tank is framed in with molding and there is no light bleed coming from behind the doors.

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A 180g is only 2' front to back and only 29" deep so you really don't need any doors at all if you have good access from the utility room. I've seen tanks much bigger than that with no doors above it and maintenance was absolutely no problem with them. Since you are going LED, it'll be super easy to lift the lighting out of the way to do maintenance from the back.

 

Not to mention it looks much, much better then the entire tank is framed in with molding and there is no light bleed coming from behind the doors.

 

Sorry I wasn't clear in my first post....I already do 90% of my maitenence from the back water changes, sock changing, media swap outs...ect. It's just when I target feed the corals and put nori in the tank it's a lot easier doing it from the front. Also moving rocks/corals around would be simple. Light bleeding won't be a big issue ill find some way to block it out. It's just I don't even know what route to go with the doors

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It's just I don't even know what route to go with the doors

Are you just having problems deciding, or are you trying to figure it out?

 

Here is a simple way to make frame and panel doors with a Kreg jig: http://ana-white.com/2013/09/plans/easy-frame-and-panel-doors

 

You could hang them flush with the cabinet (as pictured in the link), or covering the opening like typical kitchen cabinets (which is probably easier and will bleed less light).

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A couple flat panels with magnets? Easy "off-on" with the magnets.

 

What Stevethao said. If you get quality cabinet grade plywood you can probly get away with using just 1/4" with a trim or moulding to give it a little more rigidity.

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Are you just having problems deciding, or are you trying to figure it out?Here is a simple way to make frame and panel doors with a Kreg jig: http://ana-white.com/2013/09/plans/easy-frame-and-panel-doors'>http://ana-white.com/2013/09/plans/easy-frame-and-panel-doorsYou could hang them flush with the cabinet (as pictured in the link), or covering the opening like typical kitchen cabinets (which is probably easier and will bleed less light).
Kinda having trouble with both actually lol. I've been thinking over the weekend I think I'm gonna do 2 doors and instead of the doors swinging out left and right I'm gonna choose to hinge them so they open/close up and down. Then just gotta figure out how to prop it open.
What Stevethao said. If you get quality cabinet grade plywood you can probly get away with using just 1/4" with a trim or moulding to give it a little more rigidity.
This will be plan b...don't need to mess with hinges and simple on off magnets. Hopefully lowes/Home Depot has something strong enough to hold the doors.

 

I found this picture on google images I really like what he did. Thinking of doing something similar but instead of one big door in gonna do 2 panels. What do you guys think?http://s55.photobucket.com/user/dylan1464/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps2dce0bcb.jpg.html'>image_zps2dce0bcb.jpg

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I like the design.

 

I put together a few SketchUP drawings for you:
inwall2.png
Added drywall strips over the 2x4s.

inwall3.png
Added 1x5 top, bottom, and side panels to the openings to protect the drywall and give a finished look.

inwall4.png
Added 1x4 boards for the trim. In this design the trim overlaps the canopy openings by 1/4" and tank sides get a 1" overlap.

inwall5.png
With 2x2s on the top and bottom, plus frame and panel doors (attached with hinges on the top). You could add additional decorative molding. Google window trim molding and find a design that you like.

You might use four struts like these to keep the doors up. Or you could just make four doors that open up (two on each opening). Hope that makes sense and maybe helps a little.

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@seabass thanks for those pictures really helped a lot!!!!

 

So i found some scrap moldings that i had in the garage so i decided to start framing the tank. Please excuse the left side i ran out of moldings lol. But here is how the tank currently looks I'm going to have to run to HD tomorrow and grab another piece of molding. Hopefully I can get to the upper part of the tank and finish the doors this weekend

 

 

http://s55.photobucket.com/user/dylan1464/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps95cf046d.jpg.html'>image_zps95cf046d.jpg

http://s55.photobucket.com/user/dylan1464/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsdf787dbb.jpg.html'>image_zpsdf787dbb.jpg

http://s55.photobucket.com/user/dylan1464/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsd1115d73.jpg.html'>image_zpsd1115d73.jpg

 

How would you guys frame out the area above the tank? Just want to get some ideas

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It's starting to look good. Before you finish up the trim on the bottom, you should decide what the top will look like. Also, you really need to know how you will be attaching the (piano or cabinet) hinges. Installing the hinges directly on the molding might not provide enough strength to support heavy doors.

 

You can make 1, 2, or 4 doors.

  • A large single door could be made to swing up. It would sit on top of the framed out openings.
  • If using 2 or 4 doors, you have the option to recess the doors in the openings or have them close on top of the trim. I'd use 2 doors if opening them up, and 4 doors if opening them to the sides.

 

I had suggested that you use 1x5 boards to finish the openings, and then use the trim to hide the boards and 2x4s. But if you install the boards to cover up the sides of the 2x4s, the top piece of trim that you already installed isn't going to cover these new boards. So you'll have to decide if you want to move it up or not.

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It's starting to look good. Before you finish up the trim on the bottom, you should decide what the top will look like. Also, you really need to know how you will be attaching the (piano or cabinet) hinges. Installing the hinges directly on the molding might not provide enough strength to support heavy doors.

 

You can make 1, 2, or 4 doors.

  • A large single door could be made to swing up. It would sit on top of the framed out openings.
  • If using 2 or 4 doors, you have the option to recess the doors in the openings or have them close on top of the trim. I'd use 2 doors if opening them up, and 4 doors if opening them to the sides.

 

I had suggested that you use 1x5 boards to finish the openings, and then use the trim to hide the boards and 2x4s. But if you install the boards to cover up the sides of the 2x4s, the top piece of trim that you already installed isn't going to cover these new boards. So you'll have to decide if you want to move it up or not.

 

Thanks I'm glad you like it...im not sure what i want to do with the top yet. As for doors i think I'm gonna go with 2 doors one on each opening above the tank. Haven't made up my mind if i want it to swing out towards me or swing up towards the ceiling. Also before i called it a night i found a PVC plank 3/4" x 3.5" and screwed it to the 2 x 4 studs. I figured the PVC plank would hold up a lot better then drywall strips because of the moisture and all. I ran out of material to finish the center 2 x 4 so i have to grab that tomorrow when i go to HD.

 

http://s55.photobucket.com/user/dylan1464/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps3e661c70.jpg.html'>image_zps3e661c70.jpg

http://s55.photobucket.com/user/dylan1464/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsb85b8ee1.jpg.html'>image_zpsb85b8ee1.jpg

http://s55.photobucket.com/user/dylan1464/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps17470d92.jpg.html'>image_zps17470d92.jpg

 

Now right above the top molding you can see the 2 x 4 stud running across the tank still. I wanted to hide the black plastic trim of the tank so I brought the molding 1/16" over the plastic. Not sure if that was a smart move or not lol but I think i should find a way to hide the stud before i move onto the doors.

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I think i should find a way to hide the stud before i move onto the doors.

Without changing too much of what you have already done, this is what I'd do.

  • remove the top piece of trim
  • optional - remove the rosettes and side piece of trim that you installed (so you don't have notch out the trim around them)
  • add a 1 1/2" wide by 1/2" thick strips of material to both of the 2x4s (to make them flush with the drywall)
  • add the two side panel boards to the center brace (as you planned)
  • reinstall the trim above the tank where you want it
  • if removed above - attach the rosettes so that their tops are flush with the top of the trim (allowing you to install another piece of trim right against it)
  • if you moved the rosettes - cut and attach the side trim to fit
  • use a 1x2 board (actual 3/4" x 1 1/2") board for the bottom of the canopy
  • use 1x2 1x3 wood boards to trim around the rest of the entire top canopy (so you can install hinges on them), except over the center brace. Of course I'm just estimating based on the pictures; you might need to use 1x4 boards instead (measure it out before going to Home Depot).
  • have Home Depot rip cut a 1x4 board to 3" for the center brace trim (have them error on just over 3", better a little too wide than too narrow, plus you might need to sand the cut edge)
  • add caulk to seal seams and to fill gaps

Now that the trim is done, you are ready for the doors.

 

OK, I edited the above after drawing it out for you:

inwall10.png

Add decorative molding on top if you wish.

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@seabass i did something real similar to your drawing...i didn't want to risk breaking the moldings so i left it alone and i added a 5/16 x 1" strip going across the top molding. Planning on bringing the doors right to the white strip i added but I'm prob going to leave a 1/4" or 1/2" gap so i can easily open the doors. Don't want to bring it to flush to the top molding then i would have to take out a flat head screw driver to pry the door open every time lol.

 

image_zps89b71e25.jpg

image_zps1d31b092.jpg

 

here is a mock up of what i plan on doing when i get home from work tonight. I just taped the pieces to the wall just to get an idea

 

image_zpse3b0f7f4.jpg

 

So what i was planning to do was cut the 2 side moldings down a bit then add 2 more rosette blocks on top of that and run the top molding flush with the top of the blocks so i can add a finish deco molding on top of that. Do you think it'll look awkward with the very top molding flush with the blocks while the rest is centered in the blocks?

 

Then just add the same molding for the center stud.

 

Hope you can see my vision lol

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Do you think it'll look awkward with the very top molding flush with the blocks while the rest is centered in the blocks?

With all the other ones centered, I'd center the top two also. You're pretty close the ceiling, so I might just skip the crown molding on top of that. However, if you want the extra molding, just cut a strip of 1/4" material to fill the gap. The other way you could go is to just use crown molding on top (and not the rosettes and other molding). IDK, it's personal tastes.

 

Hope you can see my vision lol

Yeah, should look good.
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Ok here is what i got done...not too happy with the center molding but its good enough for me lol

 

image_zps2d8044c9.jpg

image_zpsba526ed4.jpg

image_zps8d05b429.jpg

 

Now I'm ready for some doors hopefully this weekend ill find some time to knock it out. Just want to say thank you to everyone for the advice and a special thank to sea bass for the push to get it done!

 

What do you guys think?

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