Heatsink question

[farkwar]

 

 

From this thread,

 

http://reefcentral.ru/forum/topic/7742-podbor-sveta-dlia-malenkogo-akvariuma/page-2

 

Where does one get that heatsink?

 

 

 

http://reefcentral.ru/forum/topic/7742-podbor-sveta-dlia-malenkogo-akvariuma/?p=127614

[fredfish01]

While you're at it, how do you say: Ooooh! Sexy in Russian?

 

Nice find farkwar.

[pwreef]

I am not Dmitry, but I'll answer.

Very cool heatsink, unfortunately only assemblies without diffusers will fit into it. Height between radiator base and acrylic splash guard slot is 11mm. RLL diffuser height is 13 mm + 2mm for the assembly.

One trick I am thinking of is to install black acrylic into the slot and drill holes into it to fit the diffusers thru the holes.

This guy from Kiev Ukraine sells them here:

http://www.aquaforum.ua/showthread.php?t=169670

Only his phone number is listed for this person, not sure if he speaks English. What length and size do you want? I can ask him how much to ship this to US. I am interested too.

 

Price in USD:

 

height 45 мм, width 127 мм:
● 30 см .................... 33
● 40 см .................... 39
● 50 см .................... 45
● 60 см .................... 51
● 90 см .................... 68
● 100 см .................. 74
● 120 см .................. 87

 

OR

height 45 мм, width 247 мм:

● 30 см .................... 48
● 40 см .................... 59
● 50 см .................... 70
● 60 см .................... 81
● 90 см .................... 113
● 100 см .................. 124
● 120 см .................. 146

[farkwar]

36 inches, the 90cm will do.

 

The 247 width.

 

Interested in the milled end caps as well.

 

Thank you, pwreef.

[farkwar]

The RLL controller and drivers are 12.7mm high.

 

Wiill need to dremel out pockets for them perhaps.

[pwreef]

This user had another great idea to just put a laser-cut black acrylic sheet on the outside, since that adds some more space.

http://www.aquaforum.ua/showpost.php?p=2782706&postcount=22

IMHO this is one of the best constructed DIY lights I have seen around, except that I would not put the assembly spanning two heatsinks like that. This is approaching factory quality of Radion and the like!

[farkwar]

This user had another great idea to just put a laser-cut black acrylic sheet on the outside, since that adds some more space.

http://www.aquaforum.ua/showpost.php?p=2782706&postcount=22]http://www.aquaforum.ua/showpost.php?p=2782706&postcount=22[/url]

IMHO this is one of the best constructed DIY lights I have seen around, except that I would not put the assembly spanning two heatsinks like that. This is approaching factory quality of Radion and the like!

It seems like that is just 2 regular heatsinks butted together.

 

Its the side profile thats special.

 

I can figure out how to contact the guy.

 

I dont even know what that side profile is called to google where he gets it from.

[pwreef]

So the update is that he makes all of this locally in Ukraine. Shipping it internationally will be expensive. For example he told me that single-wide heatsink is 4.5kg for 1m. EMS post to USA for 9kg package = $145. He also does not really deal with PayPal, only the local money transfer services. In the end this is one of those things that you CAN get if you really want to, but they are not worth the money or the trouble. I e-mailed heatsinkusa folks. They should get on board and produce these kinds of attachments for their products. Cannot be that hard. Good luck!

[pwreef]

I also bought this:

http://www.aquastyleonline.com/products/AE%252d60-Aluminum-Heatsink-16.5cmX6cmX61cm.html

Distance from glass to base = 31mm. Have not tried how well it will perform though.

[Horerczy]

I also bought this:

http://www.aquastyleonline.com/products/AE%252d60-Aluminum-Heatsink-16.5cmX6cmX61cm.html

Distance from glass to base = 31mm. Have not tried how well it will perform though.

I was looking at these the other day. They're nice but the would look better if the fans were recessed into the heatsink like cncreefs are.

[farkwar]

Had been looking at those as well.

 

Not long enough for what I want to do.

 

It looks like the guy only takes bank transfers. I dont do those for friends even.

 

I emailled a couple heatsink selling companies to see if the can get the side profiles, and scoured alibaba and heatsink manufacturers. No luck.

 

Im going back to my original plan.

[farkwar]

I was looking at these the other day. They're nice but the would look better if the fans were recessed into the heatsink like cncreefs are.

Im still not ruleing out ZFlow fans.

 

Dmitry's drivers have a 7th PWM controlled channel. I wonder if I can use that to power the fans controlled by the main blue channel of the controller? Maybe the violet channel, ill probably leave that channel on over night really low.

 

I was thinking of placing the fans underneath the heatsink like Ecotech does. But then thought of all the dust that will get into the LEDs. Bad idea.

[farkwar]

I also bought this:

http://www.aquastyleonline.com/products/AE%252d60-Aluminum-Heatsink-16.5cmX6cmX61cm.html'>http://www.aquastyleonline.com/products/AE%252d60-Aluminum-Heatsink-16.5cmX6cmX61cm.html

Distance from glass to base = 31mm. Have not tried how well it will perform though.

 

Just noticed your sig.

 

You have a lifereef skimmer and sump? Do you use the overflow too?

 

Im still vacilating if I want to drill this tank, its not a $40 petco breeder.

 

Is it quiet? How do you like the skimmer.

[pwreef]

I bought this as my first tank from someone who had set it up as a package. My tank is RR with the giant overflow in the middle, so I don't have a lifereef overflow. I have been thinking to get rid of that thing and go with a ghost-type overflow, but my tank is tempered on all sides, so it cannot be drilled anywhere. The skimmer is virtually silent. I have replaced the original Mag 9 with a Diablo DC pump. For me the loudest is overflow, then 2 MP40s then circulation pump - Tunze Silence then the skimmer.

[farkwar]

I just got email back from Savvy. Ghost overflow is discontinued until further notice.

 

That was my first choice.

 

I want an overflow that sucks from the bottom as well as skims from the surface. Will have to DIY it.

Glass holes does custom but when I emailed them to build a high low.skimmer box they said no.

[DNK]

Dmitry's drivers have a 7th PWM controlled channel. I wonder if I can use that to power the fans

Excuse me, but no one LED driver can be used for supply the fan.

[farkwar]

Excuse me, but no one LED driver can be used for supply the fan.

 

Thank you. Dumb idea.

[Horerczy]

Thank you. Dumb idea.

Not a dumb idea. Just won't work.

 

Drivers have a higher refresh rate on their pwm signal than fans i think.

[farkwar]

Not a dumb idea. Just won't work.

Drivers have a higher refresh rate on their pwm signal than fans i think.

The PWM signal from the controller directly should be satisfactory. My StormX controlled my PWM Nuventix fan fine enough.

 

I was just greedy to do something with that unused 7th channel on Dmitry's drivers.

 

Its like the 2 unused LED spots on the puck, greedy to leave those un-utilized. I just read a post, cant remember where, where a DIYer reflowed LEDs onto those spots with just a little heatsource(butane or propane torch). I did not think it was worth $100(x 3) for those 4 extra (2 per puck), so i got the non pro pucks.

 

"UV" violets dont really have to be in a cluster, I can just run them as parallel rails off the pucks and they will still look pro, I think.

 

Evil in another thread, assured me that the work time for Arctica adhesive was too short for bonding 36inch heatsink to heatsink. But I found one with at 45 minute work time. I also found a product called JB Weld which appears to be very strong for structurally bonding; i really wNted to avoid screws or bolts and nuts. While it may not be thermally conductive, it might work on making the fillets in the corners to smooth out the angles at the bonded corners.

 

I know I could do it with practice, just think its diminished returns with high risk to the puck, either the tracings or overheating an adjacent LED.

 

My connectors came in yesterday, remain 4 pucks are going to be delivered today. Dmitry's stuff is like 2 weeks out.

[nova423]

The PWM signal from the controller directly should be satisfactory. My StormX controlled my PWM Nuventix fan fine enough.

 

I was just greedy to do something with that unused 7th channel on Dmitry's drivers.

 

Its like the 2 unused LED spots on the puck, greedy to leave those un-utilized. I just read a post, cant remember where, where a DIYer reflowed LEDs onto those spots with just a little heatsource(butane or propane torch). I did not think it was worth $100(x 3) for those 4 extra (2 per puck), so i got the non pro pucks.

 

"UV" violets dont really have to be in a cluster, I can just run them as parallel rails off the pucks and they will still look pro, I think.

 

Evil in another thread, assured me that the work time for Arctica adhesive was too short for bonding 36inch heatsink to heatsink. But I found one with at 45 minute work time. I also found a product called JB Weld which appears to be very strong for structurally bonding; i really wNted to avoid screws or bolts and nuts. While it may not be thermally conductive, it might work on making the fillets in the corners to smooth out the angles at the bonded corners.

 

I know I could do it with practice, just think its diminished returns with high risk to the puck, either the tracings or overheating an adjacent LED.

 

My connectors came in yesterday, remain 4 pucks are going to be delivered today. Dmitry's stuff is like 2 weeks out.

 

+1 to JB weld, if it can fix a cracked oil pan, it can link two heatsinks together!

[Horerczy]

I believe JB Weld would be a good heatsink bonding tool. I've had it used to fix cracked exhaust manifolds and mufflers.

 

Heck I used it to fix the corner of a 55 gallon tank's plastic rim.

 

Just be really sure that you like the way it looks before you bond it.