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New BC29... Suggestions/advice appreciated


nhib01

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I'm starting my first saltwater tank. Here's what I have

Biocube 29g

Stock lighting

Filtration-seachem matrix carbon, seachem matrix bio media, seachem purigen, magnavore media bag, and 2 eshopps foam filters

Mag float cleaner

Eheim jäger heater 75w

API reef master kit

Tds-4 tester

Portable ro/di system

Caribsea arag-alive 20lb Fiji pink reef sand

South sea base rock 40lb (not planning on using it all)

Bali 16lb live rock (just ordered today)

Koralia nano 425

Instant ocean hydrometer

Digital thermometer

50 gal reef crystals mix

 

With all that being said....am I missing anything? Plan on adding a skimmer later down the road and possibly a uv sterilizer to use when adding new livestock. Once I start cycling do I need to run pump without any media or sponges? Trying to figure out what I need to get set up before my live rock shows up. Also what is the best placement for my power center?(inside stand/outside stand) thank you in advance for any suggestions/tips!

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API test kits are a bit meh. I wouldn't waste my time with the full kit. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate is fine for cycling but the nitrate is garbage for an established tank. The calcium has mixed reviews. Alk seems to get okay reviews. Don't bother with phosphate test kit, get a Hanna phosphorus checker then convert that to phosphate.

 

Basically skip the master test kit and mix and match because not all of those are any good.

 

 

Skip the foam filters, use filter floss so you can just throw it away.

 

 

Don't buy a portable RODI, filters cost more to replace, don't last as long and do not come in preferred micron ranges.

 

 

Don't use media during cycle such as carbon, act. Will just waste it.

 

 

UV sterilizer will not cure most diseases if that was why you were thinking of running one.

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Seabass- it is a coralife

Tamberav-During the cycle should the purigen and foam still be in? Just no carbon? (Will look into filter floss after I've ran sponges for awhile-already bought them)......uv steralizer- so what exactly should they be used for?? Most everything I read was using them to prevent disease from new livestock added to the tank.

 

Thank you all for your suggestions!!! If you have anymore I'm all ears!!

 

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Seabass- it is a coralife Tamberav-During the cycle should the purigen and foam still be in? Just no carbon? (Will look into filter floss after I've ran sponges for awhile-already bought them)......uv steralizer- so what exactly should they be used for?? Most everything I read was using them to prevent disease from new livestock added to the tank. Thank you all for your suggestions!!! If you have anymore I'm all ears!!

 

The foam should be in if you plan to use it. If would probably add purigen after the cycle, it won't harm anything though.

 

UV sterilizers reduce bacteria/algae in the water to make it crystal clear (green water or cloudy water). Generally not needed and not often used in nano reefs unless there is a problem with your water you just can't seem to fix.

 

Protozoa need a much higher dose than bacteria. So you would need a large UV and/or a slow flow rate through the UV which is difficult to accomplish in the back of a small tank. The biocube one is only 5 Watts, not sure about others.

 

You would also have to run it 24/7 not just when you add fish. It's something you run all the time or you don't get a benefit of it. It reduces #'s of bacteria, but does not eliminate them. Once removed, the bacteria/algae can start multiplying again.

 

Keep in mind, it can only kill what moves through the unit (free floating) and can't do anything for what is currently on the fish.

 

There is no "easy out" to a quarantine for a safety net.

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The foam should be in if you plan to use it. If would probably add purigen after the cycle, it won't harm anything though.

 

UV sterilizers reduce bacteria/algae in the water to make it crystal clear (green water or cloudy water). Generally not needed and not often used in nano reefs unless there is a problem with your water you just can't seem to fix.

 

Protozoa need a much higher dose than bacteria. So you would need a large UV and/or a slow flow rate through the UV which is difficult to accomplish in the back of a small tank. The biocube one is only 5 Watts, not sure about others.

 

You would also have to run it 24/7 not just when you add fish. It's something you run all the time or you don't get a benefit of it. It reduces #'s of bacteria, but does not eliminate them. Once removed, the bacteria/algae can start multiplying again.

 

Keep in mind, it can only kill what moves through the unit (free floating) and can't do anything for what is currently on the fish.

 

There is no "easy out" to a quarantine for a safety net.

 

 

That helps clear it up a lot!!! There are so many mixed messages out there. Thank you!!! What about my power center? Should that be mounted inside my stand or on the back?

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That helps clear it up a lot!!! There are so many mixed messages out there. Thank you!!! What about my power center? Should that be mounted inside my stand or on the back?

 

Wherever it looks like it has a less chance to get wet should something go wrong. I have mine high inside my stand.

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Thank you!! Now I've been thinking about this QT tank a lot....would something like this work? Had planned on this for acclimation.....http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578%203728%203768%2020398&pcatid=20398

 

Nah, they can't share the same water so a separate setup would be needed, although basic. It can be a tub/bucket, ect. Anything that safely holds water, then add a bunch of PVC pipe for the fish to hide in, and some flow from a HOB filter or a powerhead, airstone, ect. Then four weeks minimum quarantine to be safe

 

Most people also use an ammonia alert badge in the QT tank to keep an eye on levels: http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116001007-Ammonia-Alert/dp/B000255R5G

 

If you want to take it a step further, I keep seachem matrix in my back chamber or sump. Take a handful out and add it to the filter in the QT tank to transfer bacteria to keep it from cycling. Throw it away when done.

 

I am not sure how that acclimation box exactly works but you generally want to keep any bag water out of the tank to limit any bad organisms or even copper treatments used at the store from getting in your tank. It looks like it would mix the water but I am not sure.

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I have a small 5 gallon tank that I've previously used for fw.....could I use that? Just run the pump with no carbon filter???

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I have a small 5 gallon tank that I've previously used for fw.....could I use that? Just run the pump with no carbon filter???

 

As long as the fish are small and you add one at a time if possible, it should be fine. I used a 5g in a pinch to treat 2 baby clowns who had ich. I put in some matrix media from my DT and did WC's as needed and everything went smoothly.

 

If you end up purchasing something like an adult dwarf angel, then I would defiantly get something bigger to QT in.

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Thank you! The first thing I will be adding is cuc followed by corals then fish. Should I use the qt for cuc and corals as well?

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Thank you! The first thing I will be adding is cuc followed by corals then fish. Should I use the qt for cuc and corals as well?

Most people do not, they just dip the corals to remove pests. Granted anything can bring disease but its less likely. If the CUC and coral is in a tank with fish, make sure the fish look healthy.

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I will have to order all livestock (no lfs here) :( and what exactly should I dip my corals in? I hope you know I really, really appreciate all the advice.

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I will have to order all livestock (no lfs here) :( and what exactly should I dip my corals in? I hope you know I really, really appreciate all the advice.

 

People use different stuff, coral RX, Revive, iodine, depends on the coral though.

 

I have two LFS but their fish cost almost as much as a fish online + shipping and they don't come with any guarantee. So I do all my shopping online anyways.

 

I use Live Aquaria, Divers Den, and Bluezoo. Pacific East Aquaculture is another good one but you have to check back often since their stuff is hand netted, the types of fish they have varies but they also have coral. Sealifeinc is also good, they have florida fish and corals.

 

No problem, we were all new once :)

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I'm awaiting my live rock and wondering how this all plays out....should I go ahead and fill my tank and set up my dry rock get the heater going etc....or do I wait until I have the live rock? I currently have 10 gallons of rodi water in a bucket with lid....When I run some more it's going to be quite cold and will take a couple hours to get another 10 gallons. Will this be hard on my live uncured rock? Should I go ahead and fill it all up??? What about my live sand? Will it start the Cycle before I put in the live rock? My brain is flooded....any suggestions? ??

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The live sand won't typically be enough to establish the nitrogen cycle, and it shouldn't contain enough organics to cause an ammonia spike. However, I'd just fill it up in preparation for your live rock.

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Ok I know it seems silly but I wasn't sure how that would affect my aquascape.....can I rearrange as needed when the live rock comes in?

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gahumphrey

It may be overkill but i've got the usual inTank setup in the middle chamber (media basket, floss, Purigen, ChemiPure Eliete (will switch to ChemiPure Blue at some point). Next to the Media Basket in Chamber 2 I have the Tunze 9002.

 

In Chamber 1 I have an Innovative Marine Desktop Media Reactor running GFO with a small bag of Seachem Matrix under the reactor and in Chamber 3 along with the pump I have another IM Desktop Media Reactor running BRS Rox carbon. I also have my heater in Chamber 3 along with my ATO (JBJ).

 

0528142114_zps2589f04d.jpg

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Ok I know it seems silly but I wasn't sure how that would affect my aquascape.....can I rearrange as needed when the live rock comes in?
No problem at all, it won't hurt anything.
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Thanks seabass.....since the live rock I'm receiving is going to be uncured should i shake it around in some saltwater before putting it in my tank? I'm worried about the creepy creatures :)

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Helpful Tips for Controlling Unwanted Pests:

Submerse the new rock into a bucket filled with saltwater with a specific gravity of 1.035 to 1.040 for one minute. Any invertebrates including mantis shrimp, bristle worms, and crabs will quickly evacuate from the rock and into the bucket of water.

 

Remove the live rock from the bucket and sort through the invertebrates in the bucket. Determine those you want to add to your system and discard unwanted pests. Bristle worms still attached to the rock can be removed with a pair of needle-nosed pliers or tweezers. This technique can be used to remove unwanted pests before or after curing your newly arrived live rock.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/PIC/article.cfm?aid=209

 

Although I'd leave any small bristle worms. They are basically beneficial when small. If they get large, I'll remove them whenever I see them on the sand.

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