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SouthFlorida_Tron

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SouthFlorida_Tron

Will any simple chlorine test kit work? or do I need a high end one?

 

Is it supposed to be "0" coming out of my RODI?

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AZDesertRat

You need a low range chlorine test kit that reads in fractions of a PPM. Spectrapure sells them online and I have not seen any locally or elsewhere.

 

Yes it should be 0 chlorine after the carbon block and before the RO membrane as chlorine will melt a membrane. This is why manufacturers and vendors recommend changing the sediment and carbon block filters every 6 months.

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jedimasterben

The RO membrane and DI resins will not, only your carbon block. That's one reason that it is best to purchase a quality carbon block that is low micron rated, 0.5 or less.

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AZDesertRat

Your BRS systems carbon block removes chlorine, if you have one with a 5 micron carbon block. If you have one with two carbons and the second one is a 1 micron or smaller then it removes chlorine and breaks the bond with the ammonia portion of chloramines. CARBON DOES NOT REMOVE CHLORAMINES. The ammoniap ortion of chloramines is mostly removed by the RO membrane which is about 90% efficienct on all forms or ammonia and the remaining amout is removed by the DI.

 

DI is as or more important with chloramines than carbon so shop wisely. Catalytic "chloramine" carbons are not necessary if you sue a 1 micron or smaller extruded carbon block well protected by a 1 micron or smaller sediment filter. With 5 micron and larger sediment filters they allow too much through to clog or foul the pores in the carbon rendering it useless. I recommend at least a 0.5 micron sediment filter and actually use a 0.2 micron absolute rated one myself.

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SouthFlorida_Tron

Can I check my filters to see what they are?

 

How can I check the water coming out of the rodi... what test do i need?

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AZDesertRat

http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/WATER-TESTING/Chem-Test-Kits next to the bottom.

 

Visibly most carbon blocks look similar, you would need to check with the vendor to see what they supplied the system with.

 

This is the carbon block I would recommend:

http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/SEDIMENT-CARBON-FILTERS-DI-CARTRIDGES-RESIN/Carbon-Block-Filter-Cart/0.5-Micron-Carbon-Block-Filter-10-inch

 

And this sediment filter:

http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/SEDIMENT-CARBON-FILTERS-DI-CARTRIDGES-RESIN/Sediment-Filter-Cart/0.5-Micron-Sediment-Filter-Cartridge-10-inch

 

or better yet this one since it has 10x more surface area and can be rinsed and reused if you are careful:

http://spectrapure.com/AQUARIUM/SEDIMENT-CARBON-FILTERS-DI-CARTRIDGES-RESIN/Sediment-Filter-Cart/0.2-Micron-Absolute-ZetaZorb-Sediment-Filter-Cartridge-10-inch

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SouthFlorida_Tron

The one I bought back in January of 2013 isn't on the site anymore, so I can't be sure this is a variation of what I bought... but if it is, this is what the BRS says is in the filtration.... if so, are these unacceptable?

 

5 Stages of Filtration:

  • Purtrex 5 micron depth sediment filter
  • MATRIKX CTO/2 5 micron carbon block
  • MATRIKX+1 0.6 micron carbon block
  • 75 GPD Dow Filmtec Membrane
  • Single Deionization(DI) stage with refillable cartridge
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AZDesertRat

If it were me I would upgrade the sediment filter to one of the above, get rid of the 5 micron carbon, use a single 0.5 micron carbon instead and with about 20-30 minutes turn the extra unneeded canister into a dual DI. If you are protecting the carbon you don't need nor want two blocks and the extra DI gives you much more bang for your buck.

 

If you have not changed filters since January 13 you are about a a year past due, every 6 months is advised unless you are monitoring chlorine breakthru and headloss on a regular basis then you may be able to stretch it to one year. You need to disinfect the system annually anyway so change the filters at the same time.

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SouthFlorida_Tron

So why is my TDS still reading 4ppm RO, 0ppm RODI then??? Im apparently so lost when it comes to RODI lol

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AZDesertRat

If you have a low silt density index, low silt or sediment in other words, sediment filters last a long time. The problem for most people though is as filters plug the pressure available to the membrane goes down and the rejection rate drops. To troubleshoot your system you need to know the tap water TDS, RO only TDS, and RO/DI TDS, incoming tap water pressure, pressure at the RO membrane and your water temperature.

 

Again, you should disinfect the system annually too to reduce the potential for bacteria and virus growth inside the unit. You are providing the perfect breeding grounds with the removal of the chlorine, warm non flowing water when it is discinnected or shut off and lighting if you have clear housings. This is probably the most overlooked item with RO membranes in general. I have personally seen people physically ill and require medical care from drinking RO water from a system that was not maintained, more than once in fact.

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