markalot Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 I think that is a lemon, not a lime Google image search would not lie to me. This is the internets! Link to comment
NirvanaandTool Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 Looks like RapidLED has their limes in stock too. Standard soldered for now but solderless by mid June. Link to comment
markalot Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 So perhaps this was obvious to everyone but me, but these lime uglies might be the solution for the folks having issues with LED's because they insist on making them too bright. Having a diode that greatly increases the perceived brightness without adding too much PAR is a good thing. /Captain Obvious Link to comment
evilc66 Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Overall brightness is only one part of what makes these LEDs work well. They change the perceived color of the light in a way that I can't quite describe. The only way I can describe it is that you go from a light that says "yeah, that's LED", to something more like "can't quite tell if it's LED or MH". Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 Overall brightness is only one part of what makes these LEDs work well. They change the perceived color of the light in a way that I can't quite describe. The only way I can describe it is that you go from a light that says "yeah, that's LED", to something more like "can't quite tell if it's LED or MH". It is extremely noticeable if I switch from using 4K high-CRI whites to just lime - the light is as bright, but just plain different, but it's certainly not a bad different - just different to what we typically see from LEDs. I've actually been playing around with no white LEDs at all Link to comment
Nightstar Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 So perhaps this was obvious to everyone but me, but these lime uglies might be the solution for the folks having issues with LED's because they insist on making them too bright. Having a diode that greatly increases the perceived brightness without adding too much PAR is a good thing. /Captain Obvious This is the best argument for lime emitters so far. Of course we can do this by adding more whites. With limes we alsom must balance blue. The only other argument I've seen bandied about is that it adds a certain je ne sais quoi. Personally that one just isn't persuasive. Link to comment
Paleoreef103 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 It is extremely noticeable if I switch from using 4K high-CRI whites to just lime - the light is as bright, but just plain different, but it's certainly not a bad different - just different to what we typically see from LEDs. I've actually been playing around with no white LEDs at all I'm pretty sure one of the pacific sun fixtures lacks whites. I think they used standard ambers, but obviously some PC Ambers and Limes would be much preferable. Edit: Yep. http://www.pacific-sun.eu/new/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=119&Itemid=213 Link to comment
gus6464 Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 So if I am not mistaken in reading the lime specs when you mix it with a 5000K and below white it will increase the CCT? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 21, 2014 Author Share Posted June 21, 2014 Higher CCT means more blue, less of everything else, so adding anything other than blue will decrease CCT. Link to comment
supernip Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 the biggest question: where can I get a bunch for free? Link to comment
gus6464 Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 Higher CCT means more blue, less of everything else, so adding anything other than blue will decrease CCT. Ahh ok. How come in the BML custom spectrum maker if you put a 2700K and a 5700K but then add a green LED the CCT goes up? That particular green is bluer than lime? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 Ahh ok. How come in the BML custom spectrum maker if you put a 2700K and a 5700K but then add a green LED the CCT goes up? That particular green is bluer than lime? There is no green LED that is more blue than any others, both green and lime do not reach into the blue range. Their estimates are just that - estimates. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 So I just put this together for Metrokat, it's her revamped fuge light. 2x 5000K Rebel ES white, 4x Rebel ES royal blue, 2x Rebel blue, and 2x tristars that each have a Rebel ES royal blue, Rebel ES lime, and Rebel red. My cell picks up the red above all else (which is what happens with reds), and the light it casts looks pink-purple on the phone, but it's a very crisp blue color with no purple. Really a beautiful light. I'm really liking the tristars, it's a great combination IMHO. I'll try and figure out some way to hang it and get some pics with a DSLR. Link to comment
fredfish01 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 ... Really a beautiful light. I'm really liking the tristars, it's a great combination IMHO... 660nmreds? I presume this is to give the macro algae in a refugium a boost in growth? Great combination for what? Inquiring minds want to know. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 660nmreds? I presume this is to give the macro algae in a refugium a boost in growth? Great combination for what? Inquiring minds want to know. No, not deep red, just red. These were more for a test than anything, but she wanted to be better able to take pictures without getting a crapload of red from the 3x deep red I put in it before, so now there are only two 630nm reds. The royal/lime/red combo is a great tristar that looks white but still gives good color. Like RGB, but not crappy Link to comment
KnH Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 No, not deep red, just red. These were more for a test than anything, but she wanted to be better able to take pictures without getting a crapload of red from the 3x deep red I put in it before, so now there are only two 630nm reds. The royal/lime/red combo is a great tristar that looks white but still gives good color. Like RGB, but not crappy what valtage would you run the tristar at , would you need anyother suplamental leds to ballence them out for a light over the main tank Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 24, 2014 Author Share Posted August 24, 2014 what valtage would you run the tristar at , would you need anyother suplamental leds to ballence them out for a light over the main tank They aren't for use as primary lighting. LEDs aren't voltage-driven, they are current-driven, so run them on a constant current driver with a maximum current that is at or lower than the max current of the LEDs. Link to comment
fredfish01 Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 No, not deep red, just red. These were more for a test than anything, but she wanted to be better able to take pictures without getting a crapload of red from the 3x deep red I put in it before, so now there are only two 630nm reds. The royal/lime/red combo is a great tristar that looks white but still gives good color. Like RGB, but not crappy Well now, that's interesting. Better colour rendition than the blue, turquoise and red combo of an ocw? Does this change your opinion on the use of 630 reds in a light or would you still not bother over your tank? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 Well now, that's interesting. Better colour rendition than the blue, turquoise and red combo of an ocw? It doesn't have the same strange look as the OCW does, it has a different look to it, but it's still not that bad. Does this change your opinion on the use of 630 reds in a light or would you still not bother over your tank? My next array probably won't have any dedicated reds except for possibly moonlight (moonlight is almost all red anyway), but it is nice to know that I do not get any banding from the reds when used on tri-stars. Link to comment
NirvanaandTool Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Liking that color mix there. Might have to steal that for my eventual new fuge light. I've got some cheapo 10W LEDs but I feel like I could get so much better growth using some RB & Red. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 Liking that color mix there. Might have to steal that for my eventual new fuge light. I've got some cheapo 10W LEDs but I feel like I could get so much better growth using some RB & Red. This was my old fuge light. Had 28x 660nm and 6x 450nm, all LEDgroupbuy 'exotics' at 700mA. About 15.7 watts of deep red and about 4.2 watts of royal blue (optical/output watts). Was pretty wicked, about 300 PAR at the bottom of the fuge (which was like 24x12x14 or so, a section of a 40B). If I did it again, it would probably use the combo I made for kat because I'd want it to be a display fuge, but if it was only for growing macro as fast as possible, I'd probably still use just deep red and royal blue, maybe with some violet and lime in the mix for accessory pigments. You want as much intensity as possible for a fuge. Link to comment
NirvanaandTool Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Dem reds. Bet that grew macro like crazy. Yea I want more of a display fuge cause I enjoy looking at the macro filled space. Might even put a mantis shrimp in there like in my old cube cause I'm a sucker for keeping something in my fuge. That's why the new design really appeals to me. Grow macro, look good and not be a crappy cheap 5000k 10w led. Link to comment
googz Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Thanks for all the useful information in this thread. I have recently added limes to my array because of this thread and can say that I am really liking the appearance they provide. Just wanting to know if anyone has anything more to add on the "PC ambers"? Specifically when they are used with limes to minimize the need for the 4k whites. Jedi - I do recall reading that you were playing around with a "no-whites" array, any news on that? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 Nothing really yet, I honestly haven't been playing around much with it. I will say, though, the above array with the whites disconnected still looks pretty good. PC amber is more similar to a neutral white of a lower CRI, typically higher CRI chips peak around 620nm. Link to comment
markalot Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Bumping this. So my thinking has come full circle to now believe that Lime LED's might be what actually fixes most of the issues with LED fixtures, perceived brightness. I'm looking at the spectrum of Halide and my Razor and noticing that if I bump my white channel to reach the same green level of the halide bulb I am bring a bunch of other frequencies that are absent or at a much lower level in the Halide bulb. Since our eyes are most sensitive to green I am thinking most of us turn our white channel up way too high in order for the tank to look "right" to our eyes. We might set PAR correctly, but the light balance is all wrong so the corals look like crap. Turn down the whites and the coral colors recover and might even look as good, but the tank appears dark. It seems to me just a few lime LED's could solve this issue by greatly increasing the perceived brightness of the tank without bringing up everything around it. 20K Halide Maxspect Razor See all the other crap I'm bringing along with the 550? There should be a sharp peak at 550, not a smooth curve IMO. What do you think Ben? Link to comment
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