Jump to content
inTank Media Baskets

Front Bowl 16gl Reef Aquarium / USA Orbit LED / beginner


Paul3x16

Recommended Posts

There isn't anything in your tank consuming much calcium yet. The level should be fine. Once you introduce stony corals, you can start calculating consumption rates.

 

Specific gravity of 1.024 to 1.025 should be fine.

 

I'd probably take a break adding anything for a couple of weeks. Your tank is just a few weeks old.

 

No problem switching salt mixes to Reef Crystals if you prefer.

 

It's best to get a RO/DI unit; but if you want to purchase water, just buy distilled water from Walmart (or the grocery store).

you i have it a 1.025.. haha yea deff I'm gonna take a break i rush to much, i guess i got exited about how everything is stable!

 

what i don't get is if i should get a better salt mix for the corals. what do the corals eat or need??

 

later on ill be getting the RO/DI system, right now i had spend to much $$ its hurting my credit card!

 

today i found a hermit crab death out of its shell I'm guessing is the goby.. i still haven't bought more shells

post-84328-0-02361500-1398913199_thumb.jpg

 

i did a water test ammonia at min level .6 nitrate 5 nitrite 0.1 ph 8

 

here are the soft corals and i saw the red hermit crab pinching the coral so i poke him arrrr

post-84328-0-88701200-1398913196_thumb.jpg

 

post-84328-0-21915700-1398913201_thumb.jpg

 

this other crab is nice doesn't bother anything!! there is the damsel he likes pics haha

 

friday ill be doing %20 water change with filter trying to finish the rest of the water that i have from petco.

 

also im gonna rearrange the landscape, bing them more backwards since i think i have a lot of death spot in the back or to much space in the back!! probably i put my left over base rock! also add shells

post-84328-0-02361500-1398913199_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

what i don't get is if i should get a better salt mix for the corals.

Instant Ocean is alright to use, but a lot of people like a mix that's higher in calcium and alkalinity. This is more important for stony corals that build their own calcium structures (LPS and SPS). Reef Crystals is just like Instant Ocean but mixes to slightly higher levels (Red Sea Coral Pro is another popular reef salt).

 

what do the corals eat or need??

Most of the corals that are popular are photosynthetic, and get the majority of their energy from the light. However, they also utilize nutrients in the water, and will either filter feed or (in the case of larger LPS corals) capture small bits of food with their feeder tentacles.

 

Stony corals also use alkalinity and calcium in the water to build their skeletal structures. With a lot of stony corals in a tank, the consumption rate can become too high for water changes to replenish, and dosing these elements (to bring them back up to the original levels) becomes necessary.

 

later on ill be getting the RO/DI system, right now i had spend to much $$ its hurting my credit card!

Then use distilled water from the store. However the cost of RO/DI water is less, so the sooner you get your own system, the more money you'll save in the long run.

 

today i found a hermit crab death out of its shell I'm guessing is the goby.

Probably just a molt. Gobies aren't typically that aggressive.

 

i did a water test ammonia at min level .6 nitrate 5 nitrite 0.1 ph 8

Ammonia and nitrite should both be undetectable. Nitrate at 5ppm is fine.

 

here are the soft corals...

Nice zoanthids. Although most poeple aren't that fond of those larger brownish palythoas (they aren't as attractive, but are extremely hardy and will outcompete nearby coral). Careful, these are the corals that people report getting hurt by their palytoxin. Personally I'd carefully remove these brown polyps (wearing protective gloves and eyewear, and using an exacto knife to carefully scape the tissue off of the rock). Be sure to rinse the rock off in some water change water before putting them back in your tank.
Link to comment

Thanks for all the advice, I'm gonna get the red sea coral pro mix when i finish my bag of instal coral mix.. hopefully for next month ill be getting the RI/DO system for sure! :D

 

Well today finally i did my water change with filter change and relandscape the tank. also finally i got my current USA orbit marine led here are some pics

 

post-84328-0-91508100-1399001110_thumb.jpg

post-84328-0-19567200-1399001113_thumb.jpg

post-84328-0-85062400-1399001115_thumb.jpg

 

i did the ammonia test was at 1 :wacko: obviously was a death of my Sally Lightfoot Crabs :( i was reading, crab eat dried seaweed!! well nitrate was at 10 and nitrite at .3

 

i also cleaned the sand with %20 change and i found this guy what is it!! :blink:

post-84328-0-14073900-1399001108_thumb.jpg

 

the new readings are ammonia .6 nitrate 5 and nitrite .1

 

so far I'm happy with the tank.. now i have to wait till everything is stable what other coral or fishes you guys recommend?

 

and about the zoanthids and brownish palythoas I'm gonna keep in mind and maybe next week i'll what you told me!!

Link to comment

Neat little tank. I'd let it mature for awhile; but if you see something you like, do some research, or post a question on Nano-Reef before you make any impulse buys. You'll probably want a mixture of low and taller corals.

Link to comment

Neat little tank. I'd let it mature for awhile; but if you see something you like, do some research, or post a question on Nano-Reef before you make any impulse buys. You'll probably want a mixture of low and taller corals.

Yes thats what I'm doing let it mature, i also added crush shells in top of the sad bed, the gubby loves it.. finally i also installed the two koralia pumps with the controller one is 240 and the other one is 450, works great i had it in alternative intervals of 1 min each!!

 

now I'm just testing the water everyday and later on get the calcium phosphate alkalinity test, which other test should i get!

Link to comment

so here are my test result from today in the morning everything seems to be going good!! i think

 

Salinity 1.025

PH 8.0

Ammonia .6

Nitrite 0

Nitrate 5

Phosphate .25

Calcium 420

KH 143.2

 

post-84328-0-10728300-1399394722_thumb.jpg

 

 

Link to comment

Ammonia should be undetectable, that worries me. Alkalinity is alright, but on the low side. Phosphate should be closer to 0.03ppm, versus 0.25ppm (which is almost 10 times higher than it should be). You need a low range phosphate kit (it shouldn't go up in 0.25ppm increments).

 

Here is a recommended parameter chart: http://www.marinedepot.com/reef-tank-parameters.html

Link to comment

Ammonia should be undetectable, that worries me. Alkalinity is alright, but on the low side. Phosphate should be closer to 0.03ppm, versus 0.25ppm (which is almost 10 times higher than it should be). You need a low range phosphate kit (it shouldn't go up in 0.25ppm increments).

 

Here is a recommended parameter chart: http://www.marinedepot.com/reef-tank-parameters.html

I know that worries me too but it has never gone down from there. Or mayb the nutrafin test is not accurate.. Im gonna do the pholsphate again i think i did it wrong but yea im gonna get low range kit.. Thanks. Is the calcium good? What other test should i get? Whats magnisium for?

Link to comment
Steensj2004

Magnesium, Calcium, and Alk all are needed by the system and corals. Usually early on, you can keep these at the right levels with water changes. As you stock corals, they will consume more and more of this stuff out of the water, people usually start dosing mag,calcium, alk at that point. This of course would be much down the road. I have a lot of SPS corals in my 16 and as of now my levels stay up with 2 water changes a week @ 4 gallons. I strongly suggest buying Salifert test kits. They ARE expensive, but if you buy one or two at a time it isn't so bad. In relation to your progress right now I would say buy the Ammonia, phosphate, and Nitrate kits. Kits like alk, mag, and calcium can be purchased when you start to really add corals. There are some ways to cheap out in this hobby, but test kits isn't one of them imho. Water condition a win or lose situation... Even when you have issues corals (and it will always be that one expensive Acro or SPS coral you love) may not show the effects until down the road.

 

Just remember, you are trying to recreate the most stable environment on the planet in a glass box, takes a lot of work. Good luck! Tank looks great!

Link to comment

Magnesium, Calcium, and Alk all are needed by the system and corals. Usually early on, you can keep these at the right levels with water changes. As you stock corals, they will consume more and more of this stuff out of the water, people usually start dosing mag,calcium, alk at that point. This of course would be much down the road. I have a lot of SPS corals in my 16 and as of now my levels stay up with 2 water changes a week @ 4 gallons. I strongly suggest buying Salifert test kits. They ARE expensive, but if you buy one or two at a time it isn't so bad. In relation to your progress right now I would say buy the Ammonia, phosphate, and Nitrate kits. Kits like alk, mag, and calcium can be purchased when you start to really add corals. There are some ways to cheap out in this hobby, but test kits isn't one of them imho. Water condition a win or lose situation... Even when you have issues corals (and it will always be that one expensive Acro or SPS coral you love) may not show the effects until down the road.

 

Just remember, you are trying to recreate the most stable environment on the planet in a glass box, takes a lot of work. Good luck! Tank looks great!

thanks i bought the nutrafin kit (PH 8.0 Ammonia .6 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5) and from API (Phosphate .25 Calcium 420 KH 143.2) i guess im only missing the magnesium!

 

i also bought just in case kent marine reef starter kit A (Liquid Calcium, Strontium & Molybdenum, Iodine) and also B(Essential Elements, Pro-Ammonia Detox, and Pro-Buffer dKH), does anyone has reviews, im not gonna use it i just bought it just in case i needed plus it was on sale and i had a coupon so it was cheap

Link to comment

Throw the API phosphate kit away. It goes up in 0.25ppm increments but the target phosphate level is only 0.03ppm (so it does you no good).

 

In my opinion and experience, I would not dose anything. Definitely don't dose anything that you aren't testing for, and don't try to elevate levels beyond what your salt mix mixes to. So your target levels should be the levels of a fresh batch of mixed saltwater (that is fully dissolved). If you prefer higher levels, get a different salt mix (and then target those levels). The only thing that you'll need to dose (down the road) is calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium. This and water changes should be sufficient.

Link to comment

Throw the API phosphate kit away. It goes up in 0.25ppm increments but the target phosphate level is only 0.03ppm (so it does you no good).

 

In my opinion and experience, I would not dose anything. Definitely don't dose anything that you aren't testing for, and don't try to elevate levels beyond what your salt mix mixes to. So your target levels should be the levels of a fresh batch of mixed saltwater (that is fully dissolved). If you prefer higher levels, get a different salt mix (and then target those levels). The only thing that you'll need to dose (down the road) is calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium. This and water changes should be sufficient.

REALLY :wacko:, the API phosphate kit i got confused with the alkalinity test <_< Im gonna try to return it lol, i just used it once haha... ugg the other stuff is in the bag with the receipt im also gonna return it thanks for letting me know, deff im gonna get a better Salt mix!, and get the calcium, alkalinity and magnesium, which brand should i use? since im gonna return a lot of stuff mind as well ill buy the stuff that i need!!

 

Thanks

Link to comment

It depends what they have. Most people get reef salt mixes like Red Sea Coral Pro or Reef Crystals (which are typically higher in calcium than traditional marine salt like Instant Ocean). If you do a search on salt mix you'll see that everyone seems to have a favorite and there are a number of decent salt mixes available.

Link to comment
It depends what they have. Most people get reef salt mixes like Red Sea Coral Pro or Reef Crystals (which are typically higher in calcium than traditional marine salt like Instant Ocean). If you do a search on salt mix you'll see that everyone seems to have a favorite and there are a number of decent salt mixes available.

 

Deff I'll be buying the Red Sea coral pro salt this weekend that I have to do the water change!! Question I am running the api bio chem zorb, and taam rio nano skimmer with filter with activated carbon. Am I running to many filters? Is bad to run two filters?

Link to comment

It's alright to use multiple (chemical and/or mechanical) filters/skimmers/reactors. Just make sure you do maintenance and replace media on schedule.

Link to comment

It's alright to use multiple (chemical and/or mechanical) filters/skimmers/reactors. Just make sure you do maintenance and replace media on schedule.

so since i'm not sleepy lol i went to do some water testing... i think my CUC like to work at night. they are the night workers, during the day i don't even see them..

 

post-84328-0-03559100-1399439260_thumb.jpg

 

i think I'm gonna get other kind of ammonia test, its confusing, i was reading the instruction

COLOUR CHART RESULTS

<1.2 mg/L

If the result from the colour chart indicates that the ammonia level is below 1.2 mg/L NH , 3

continue to add Nutrafin Cycle on its regular dosage schedule.

 

http://ca-en.hagen.com/File/55f0bcb0-7d6e-4da3-8adc-e8869e7a3045

 

thats why is always .6 or maybe its really always 0 :blink:

 

post-84328-0-57806400-1399439534_thumb.jpeg

 

PH is between 8-8.5

Nitrite 0

Nitrate 0

Calcium 420

 

and here is the pic of the skimmer, all the junk that has collected in a week

 

post-84328-0-63635200-1399439873_thumb.jpg

 

i think the KH and pholsphate I'm gonna sell it to a friend that is doing a fresh water tank

 

Link to comment

What kind of ro/di system should i get a 3 stage or 5 stage system?

These units used to be even more price competitive; but IMO, they are still probably the best buy out there: http://spectrapure.com/FACTORY-REFURBISHED/Refurbished-90-GPD-RODI-System

 

50gpd.????

I know that 50 gallons a day sounds like way more water than you need (and it is), but it's really about how fast you can make a gallon of water. SpectraPure's 90gpd system essentially uses a 75gpd membrane. The actual amount of water that you can produce in a 24 hour period will vary based on the temperature of the cold water supply and the water pressure in your home. Let's hypothetically say that you are currently getting 72gpd from the 90gpd unit. That would mean you could make 3 gallons an hour, or a gallon every 20 minutes. It might take more than 30 minutes to make that same gallon of water with a 50gpd unit.

 

So even with a 90gpd system, it would take about 48 minutes (vs more than 72 minutes with a 50gpd unit) to make enough water for a weekly 15% water change.

Link to comment

These units used to be even more price competitive; but IMO, they are still probably the best buy out there: http://spectrapure.com/FACTORY-REFURBISHED/Refurbished-90-GPD-RODI-System

 

I know that 50 gallons a day sounds like way more water than you need (and it is), but it's really about how fast you can make a gallon of water. SpectraPure's 90gpd system essentially uses a 75gpd membrane. The actual amount of water that you can produce in a 24 hour period will vary based on the temperature of the cold water supply and the water pressure in your home. Let's hypothetically say that you are currently getting 72gpd from the 90gpd unit. That would mean you could make 3 gallons an hour, or a gallon every 20 minutes. It might take more than 30 minutes to make that same gallon of water with a 50gpd unit.

 

So even with a 90gpd system, it would take about 48 minutes (vs more than 72 minutes with a 50gpd unit) to make enough water for a weekly 15% water change.

thanks good explanation. deff ill be getting the system by the end of the month

 

I bought red sea coral pro mix salt i did %30 water change on Sunday

also i bought a clown fish and a panda banggai which had problem with the damsel, the damsel was attacking them very territorial, so i had to put the damsel in a time out box :D

 

post-84328-0-25456600-1399992031_thumb.jpg

 

post-84328-0-76837900-1399991347_thumb.jpg

 

left him there for 1 day and yesterday night with the lights off i release him, woke up today in the morning, everybody its getting along.. what a relieve!!! B)

 

now today im gonna do a 50% water change cause my ammonia is going up 1 with nitrate 10 and nitrite .1

 

post-84328-0-66696900-1399992030_thumb.jpg

 

post-84328-0-76619800-1399992029_thumb.jpg

 

post-84328-0-21334500-1399992029_thumb.jpg

Link to comment

You can't keep adding livestock when the tank hasn't established the cycle yet. Ammonia should be undetectable for a week straight before adding anything. Damsels just get meaner with time; I'd give him back to the LFS.

Link to comment
holdorf333

:welcome:

 

I'd like to make a suggestion, take it easy with the testing and relax. Let everything "bake" for a month (better two or three) and let everything kind of settle in. You aren't going to get quick successes, and in this hobby, age is your friend.

Link to comment

Im going to chime in and suggest you go to your lfs and buy a bottle of brightwell aquatics microbacter7. Follow the instructions for new tanks. This will bring your levels down pretty fast. You cant overdose microbacter7, you will just end up with a really cloudy tank. Your protien skimmer will skim out the excess bacteria.

 

You added your fish way to fast, your bacteria cant keep up yet. You might crash soon.

Link to comment

You can't keep adding livestock when the tank hasn't established the cycle yet. Ammonia should be undetectable for a week straight before adding anything. Damsels just get meaner with time; I'd give him back to the LFS.

:(but :( but :( but the guy in the store lied to me, they told me its was fine uggg i hate when they do that just to sell stuff..

 

:welcome:

 

I'd like to make a suggestion, take it easy with the testing and relax. Let everything "bake" for a month (better two or three) and let everything kind of settle in. You aren't going to get quick successes, and in this hobby, age is your friend.

yep its true :mellow::o

 

Im going to chime in and suggest you go to your lfs and buy a bottle of brightwell aquatics microbacter7. Follow the instructions for new tanks. This will bring your levels down pretty fast. You cant overdose microbacter7, you will just end up with a really cloudy tank. Your protien skimmer will skim out the excess bacteria. You added your fish way to fast, your bacteria cant keep up yet. You might crash soon.

:o:o:o how do i know when it crash... hopefully does not happen!!

 

 

i just went from :D to :( in .1 sec, from now on i wont put anything else.. just keep doing the water change and top offs!! :blink::wacko::huh:

Link to comment
holdorf333

don't be :( just relax and enjoy. it took eons for the reefs to exist as they are today, let your tank have a couple months and enjoy the process.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recommended Discussions


×
×
  • Create New...