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Front Bowl 16gl Reef Aquarium / USA Orbit LED / beginner


Paul3x16

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i started Friday, April 11 2014, this is the set up

 

16 gallon bow front

8Lb Live rock

8LB base rock

20LB Live sand (CaribSea Arag-Alive Bahamas Oolite Aquarium Sand)

20gal Rena SmartFilter

50W heater

Hydor Koralia 240 wavemaker

54x HQ 0.2W LED (51x 10000K daylight, 3x 460nm Actinic) 1026 Lumen

Taam Rio Nano skimmer(this is on order)

Aquaclear Power head20

 

after adding live sand and rock i only was able to put 13GL

 

i used tap water with salt to mix it (tap water with conditioner) (but i guess using tap water was bad)

 

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Salinity was at 1.024

 

after that i ended up putting live rock (live rock was not cure i got it from the store straight to my tank)

 

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by Tuesday i started noticing some algae growing

 

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the readings were confusing i went to the store they tested the water the ammonia was high so i bought a test kit (duhh forgot to buy a ammonia so i dont really know the reading of the ammonia)

 

 

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by last Thursday

 

i got readings from ammonia its was 1 and more algae growing

 

 

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after adding a powerhead know i keep the flow everywhere no death spots!

 

finally i got a nutrafin test kit yesterday monday. so this are my results

 

 

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ammonia .6

 

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PH 8.0

 

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nitrite 1.6

 

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Nitrate 50

 

what i believe im in the middle of the cycling posses since ammonia has gone down and nitrate, nitrite has gone up high. but what im reallly concern is the algae that keeps growing (i figure it out i keep the light on for to long probably about 10 hours so im cutting down the light to 5 hours)

 

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i guess i just have to wait and keep testing the water.. i also just got the skimmer i dont know if i should put it on or just wait a little more!!

 

any inputs if what im doing is right or wrong thanks

 

i also added a skimmer one day ago!!

 

sooo i think my cycle is done!!!

 

yesterday reading was

 

amonia .6

nitrite .8

nitrate 10

PH 8

Salinity 1.026

 

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todays reading from this morning was

 

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nitrate 10

nitrite 0

 

i dont know if the readings from API test strip and nutrafin master kit are accurate!!

 

 

but this is how the tank looks like

 

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im gonna test it in the afternoon so i can start adding a CUC

 

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Test ammonia again. If it's undetectable, then the cycle has been established for the current bio-load. Wait until it's undetectable before adding any livestock (then add slowly).

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I find that whenever one Hard Cycles an aquarium, the tank isn't truly cycled.

 

You see, a lot of people recommend dosing ammonia to a strange, obscured number like 4ppm. Right, okay, all sounds good and well at this point. However most people don't really think this concept through.

 

As the tank hard cycles the ammonia decreases, leaving the colonies of bacteria with no food. So, the moment your ammonia hits zero, the tank is no longer cycled for a bioload that heavy. The bacteria begin to die off without ammonia feeding them. Most people say "The fish is feeding the bacteria with his/hers detritus." That is correct to an extent. You see, the one fish isn't producing 4ppm of ammonia alone. Not all of that bacteria will have food, causing at the least 50% of the bacteria you established during your hard cycle to die.

 

Then as you add more and more fish over a period of time, your bacteria colonies need to grow. So, while you add these fish there isn't enough bacteria to support them. This creates ammonia to stay in the tank longer potentially harming the fish, and none of us want to do that.

 

This is where the old method of the "Soft Cycle" comes into play. Now-a-days many people put the soft cycle, commonly referred to as the fish in cycle, which is different, down. However a soft cycle can be down successfully, and is much more efficient for the tank.

 

Here is a short quote from a user on another forum. This explains what I said earlier pry more clearly.

 

One of the things that I commonly run across on this and other forums' date=' is the notion that if I hard cycle my tank to that arbitrary number (maybe somewhat tied to high end stocking numbers, but arbitrary non-the-less), it is somehow "magically" prepared forever thereafter to accept any and all fish that I wish to place in the system. In reality, bacteria populations in any aquarium are in a constant state of dynamic flux, adding to or shifting the bioload causes an very quick fluctuation in that bacteria population (with mature populations, that fluctuation can occur in as little as 12 hours), resulting in increasing populations or die-off of your bacteria population.


The only benefit one can gain from hard cycling an aquarium to that arbitrary number is the immediate opportunity to stock the fish levels. Wait just 24 hours without maintaining those ammonia levels in your tank, and that opportunity is gone. Hence why people who have been engaged in this hobby for much longer periods of time understand that the old tried and true method of slowly adding a few fish at a time to a tank with an established bacteria population is generally a much safer and surer way of doing things.[/quote']

 

Great user with plenty of knowledge. Here is a link to an article he wrote about soft cycling an aquarium, just so you can see where I am coming from. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f23/lets-talk-about-mythconceptions-regarding-nitrogen-and-the-cycling-process-227745.html'> Lets Talk about Mythconceptions Regarding Nitrogen and the Cycling Process

 

In the sense of the hard cycle, No your tank is not cycled. Still in the middle of that process. :) Sorry for the long post, just thought it would be good to spread this knowledge.

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I'm not in favor of boosting the ammonia level in tanks with live rock or other livestock (unless you are using all dry rock and no other life will be affected). Even then, I think it's smart to target a lower ammonia level (like 1ppm, as different strains will dominate high ammonia environments).

 

Yes, bacteria populations adjust to the availability of their energy source (ammonia) fairly quickly. This is true if there is excess ammonia, or not enough. But it's my understanding that bacteria die off isn't as quick as a day. I have read that bacteria can become dormant. I'm not sure how long this period might be, but the makers of bacteria additives make it seem like this dormancy period actually exists.

 

But again, I don't recommend boosting ammonia levels unless you are simply prepping dry rock (so no need to try to beef up bacteria populations at the expense of other life).

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I did my nutrafin test ammonia is at 0.6 nitrate an nitrite undetectable 0. Friday i add CUC 2 turbo snails 1 margarita and astrea snail 1 crab sally and one blue crab hermit, also added a gubby and damsel. So far i keed testing everyday and i have the same results .6 and 0

 

I dont know if the cuc are able to keep up with the algae plus there is also a lot of algae in the sand and waste from the damsel ( i think im not sure if that is waste from the damsel, i havent feedthe damsel so i guess he is fidding from the algae!!!

 

My concern is if i should do a water change. Which i havent done it since i have the skimmer all the test are good!!, also should i change the filter is all cover with yellowish green stuff which i think is algae!! Ill put some pics later so you guys can tell me what you think and give me an advice of what should or not do!!!

 

Thanks

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I'm not in favor of boosting the ammonia level in tanks with live rock or other livestock (unless you are using all dry rock and no other life will be affected). Even then, I think it's smart to target a lower ammonia level (like 1ppm, as different strains will dominate high ammonia environments).

 

Yes, bacteria populations adjust to the availability of their energy source (ammonia) fairly quickly. This is true if there is excess ammonia, or not enough. But it's my understanding that bacteria die off isn't as quick as a day. I have read that bacteria can become dormant. I'm not sure how long this period might be, but the makers of bacteria additives make it seem like this dormancy period actually exists.

 

But again, I don't recommend boosting ammonia levels unless you are simply prepping dry rock (so no need to try to beef up bacteria populations at the expense of other life).

 

Yeah, I agree. It's just not right IMO, base rock is a different story though.

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In general, water changes are typically beneficial. Go ahead and feed your fish, and siphon out the detritus that's on the sand bed (replacing that water with new water).

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when am i gonna be able to get some coral and anemones

After everything is stable for awhile. Also remember, don't add anything if you are experiencing any problems.

 

should i get a better lighting!! i saw this light

Sorry, I don't know much about your current light, or the new one you just referenced.

 

what oder test should i do to the water!!

At this point, I would concentrate on nutrient levels (phosphate and nitrate). And whenever you add new livestock to your tank, I'd also monitor the ammonia level.

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After everything is stable for awhile. Also remember, don't add anything if you are experiencing any problems.

 

Sorry, I don't know much about your current light, or the new one you just referenced.

 

At this point, I would concentrate on nutrient levels (phosphate and nitrate). And whenever you add new livestock to your tank, I'd also monitor the ammonia level

Thanks ill keep posting more pics, im gonna wait a week to see how the CUC works and how the damsel is doing, ill keep monitoring the ammonia and nutrient levels.. i just bought the light so i have to wait till gets here, it seems really cool hopefully i don't get it wrong cause the light is expensive!!

http://current-usa.com/aquarium-led-lights/orbit-marine/

 

after a week or so ill be back with more questions!!!

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so my clean up crew was little lazy but this is what i got to start with, 2 turbo snails 2 margarita and 2 astrea snail, 4 crab sally and 1 blue crab hermit, also added a gubby and damsel..

 

also i used this kind of salt mix Instant Ocean Aquarium Sea Salt Mixture to start up the cycle but should i get this instead since i wanna have a reef tank!! Reef Crystals Aquarium Reef Sea Salt or should i just get this Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit (http://www.petco.com/product/6104/Kent-Marine-Reef-Starter-Kit.aspx?Ntt=start%20up%20kit%20reef&OneResultRedirect=1)??? for my top off im using distilled water, and for my water change with petco ocean mix (http://www.petco.com/product/11884/Petco-Real-Ocean-Water.aspx).. what should i do?? obviously i have to wait more time before i add more Live stock but i wanna have everything ready for when is time to get he corals and anamonies ...

 

other question?? i would like to know what you guys think about the filter types that Rena smartfilter they have, i want to have the right filter when it comes to replacing the existing one!! so here are the tree types

 

nitra-zorb (http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?sectionid=1&catid=16&subcatid=90&id=831#.U13LFV6prwI)

 

bio-chem (http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?sectionid=1&catid=16&subcatid=90&id=829#.U13LEV6prwI)

 

phos-zorb (http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?sectionid=1&catid=16&subcatid=90&id=830#.U13LFV6prwI)

 

which one should i get??

 

thanks

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should i get this instead since i wanna have a reef tank!! Reef Crystals Aquarium Reef Sea Salt or should i just get this Kent Marine Reef Starter Kit (http://www.petco.com/product/6104/Kent-Marine-Reef-Starter-Kit.aspx?Ntt=start up kit reef&OneResultRedirect=1)???

Reef Crystals is a little better suited for stoney corals (like LPS) than Instant Ocean.

 

for my top off im using distilled water, and for my water change with petco ocean mix (http://www.petco.com/product/11884/Petco-Real-Ocean-Water.aspx).. what should i do??

Distilled is good for top off water, or to make saltwater from a salt mix. However, over time, a RO/DI unit will end up being more convenient and cheaper to use.

 

other question?? i would like to know what you guys think about the filter types that Rena smartfilter they have, i want to have the right filter when it comes to replacing the existing one!!

You probably don't need NITRA-ZORB®, as the bacteria on your live rock will remove ammonia and nitrite. However, phosphate removal is typically useful (although you should monitor the level with a low range test kit to make sure it stays within the recommended range.

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So to day in the morning i tested my water Amonia is a .6 nitrate 5 and nitrite .3 tonight ill be doing my first water change after cycling the tank!!

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So to day in the morning i tested my water Amonia is a .6 nitrate 5 and nitrite .3 tonight ill be doing my first water change after cycling the tank!!

I'm afraid that you've added your livestock too quickly. The biofilter isn't capable of processing all of the ammonia that is being produced. Also, has anything died? If there is a dead snail or anything else, you must promptly remove it.

 

Dealing with ammonia spikes with livestock in the tank can get a little tricky. Water changes can extend the time it takes to establish a balanced cycle. However, once it's capable of processing the ammonia water changes are beneficial.

 

I recommend using a product like Seachem Prime or Amquel Plus to detoxify the ammonia for your livestock.

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I'm afraid that you've added your livestock too quickly. The biofilter isn't capable of processing all of the ammonia that is being produced. Also, has anything died? If there is a dead snail or anything else, you must promptly remove it.

 

Dealing with ammonia spikes with livestock in the tank can get a little tricky. Water changes can extend the time it takes to establish a balanced cycle. However, once it's capable of processing the ammonia water changes are beneficial.

 

I recommend using a product like Seachem Prime or Amquel Plus to detoxify the ammonia for your livestock.

i check all the snail all of them are moving!! just one nassarius snail is missing but i guess is in burry in the sand once in a while i see them come out.. im gonna test the water tonight to see it anything has rise or lower... ill take a look in those products

 

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meanwhile my CUC are night workers did a very good job at night... specially that goby

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so i did my test. ammonia was 0 to .6 nitrate from 0 to 5 and nitrite 0.. what it trigger was a death snail, i guess the goby killed the nassarius snail.. since i have finals i didn't do my water change, and the skimmer wasn't working so i put the skimmer back to work remove the death snail lets see what are my readings tomorrow!!

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That's good! The death could have triggered the ammonia spike. As your biofilter gets more established, it should be able to handle the death of a small snail.

 

The Goby wouldn't have killed it. My money is on one of the crabs. Do you have spare shells for your hermit crab?

 

Margarita Snails are a temperate species and don't live very long in a reef environment. Keep a closer eye on them so you can remove them when they die.

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That's good! The death could have triggered the ammonia spike. As your biofilter gets more established, it should be able to handle the death of a small snail.

 

The Goby wouldn't have killed it. My money is on one of the crabs. Do you have spare shells for your hermit crab?

 

Margarita Snails are a temperate species and don't live very long in a reef environment. Keep a closer eye on them so you can remove them when they die.

nope i dont, ill try to get shells for the hermit crab, the margarita snails are trying to escape from the tank, i found one in the water fall of the filter!!

 

i have another question, do you think my water movement is fine or should i get another wave maker, so far i have koralia 240 and a aquaclear 20(160) powerhead!! cause i was planing to buy another koralia 240 with the wave controller but i dont know if is gonna be to much??

 

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here i move the wavemaker sideways instead of facing front!!

 

btw my ammonia lever is between 0 to .6 nitrate is 5 and nitrite .1

 

the type of food im giving is frozen shrimp!!

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i have another question, do you think my water movement is fine or should i get another wave maker, so far i have koralia 240 and a aquaclear 20(160) powerhead!! cause i was planing to buy another koralia 240 with the wave controller but i dont know if is gonna be to much??

What you have right now is 25 times turnover. That should be enough. If you wanted to get another Koralia 240, that would be fine; however, I'd just replace the AquaClear with the Koralia.

 

btw my ammonia lever is between 0 to .6 nitrate is 5 and nitrite .1

Yeah, the cycle isn't quite established yet.

 

the type of food im giving is frozen shrimp!!

Frozen mysis or frozen brine? Mysis is a better food than brine shrimp.
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Frozen mysis or frozen brine? Mysis is a better food than brine shrimp.

Yes it is frozen mysis i forgot what was called... the damsel and gobby loves them.. how much should i feed, im just feeding once every other day about a pinch!!

 

the koralia should i get a 425 or 240? also im getting the controller so i can connect both koralia!! that way i can remove the powerhaed!

 

yea lets see how the cycle continues. btw when should i change the filter!! im doing the water change on friday. tomorrow i have a big final!! i dont know what is stressing me more the tank or my final lol!!!

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how much should i feed, im just feeding once every other day about a pinch!!

I feed a little everyday. Don't feed more than they will eat. And instead of adding it all at once, you might try adding a little at a time (so they can catch it all).

 

the koralia should i get a 425 or 240? also im getting the controller so i can connect both koralia!! that way i can remove the powerhaed!

If the powerheads will be on at alternating times, I might be tempted to get a 425. If you don't get the controller, I'd just get another 240.

 

yea lets see how the cycle continues. btw when should i change the filter!! im doing the water change on friday. tomorrow i have a big final!! i dont know what is stressing me more the tank or my final lol!!!

I don't know that much about your filter. What are the manufacturer's recommendations?

 

In general, you should clean or replace mechanical filters once or twice a week. Activated carbon should be replaced every week or two. And phosphate media should be replaced when phosphate rises higher than your target level.

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I feed a little everyday. Don't feed more than they will eat. And instead of adding it all at once, you might try adding a little at a time (so they can catch it all).

 

If the powerheads will be on at alternating times, I might be tempted to get a 425. If you don't get the controller, I'd just get another 240.

 

I don't know that much about your filter. What are the manufacturer's recommendations?

 

In general, you should clean or replace mechanical filters once or twice a week. Activated carbon should be replaced every week or two. And phosphate media should be replaced when phosphate rises higher than your target level.

ok thanks, i just bought the 425 with the controller so i can also plug in the 240!! once i get home im gonna read about the filter and replace it, so this friday ill be replacing the filter, also the waterchange and hopefully i get the wavemaker and my new tow the led usa current orvit... ill put some pics or video if its possible..

 

thanks great answers

 

:D

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So i just got my first polyp coral...... I think i rush into things or mayb not. Before i bought it the aquarium store tested the water everything was at good levels so they told me i can put one.. But after reading they never told me about my calcium levels.. My salinity level is at 1.024 should i raise it to 1.026

 

when i started my tank i used instant ocean aquarium salt. As i read in many forums i should of started with instant ocean reef crystals!!! Is that true? .. Or do i need to add something else!! What im planing to do is buy the reef crystal and use it for my water changes. Btw i bought 5gl of petco real ocean water at the beginning of the cycling process i have use 2gl. And for my top offs i use fresh water from petco. I think im doing something wrong but so far my tank has been really stable !!

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So i just got my first polyp coral...... I think i rush into things or mayb not. Before i bought it the aquarium store tested the water everything was at good levels so they told me i can put one.. But after reading they never told me about my calcium levels.. My salinity level is at 1.024 should i raise it to 1.026

There isn't anything in your tank consuming much calcium yet. The level should be fine. Once you introduce stony corals, you can start calculating consumption rates.

 

Specific gravity of 1.024 to 1.025 should be fine.

 

I'd probably take a break adding anything for a couple of weeks. Your tank is just a few weeks old.

 

when i started my tank i used instant ocean aquarium salt. As i read in many forums i should of started with instant ocean reef crystals!!! Is that true? .. Or do i need to add something else!! What im planing to do is buy the reef crystal and use it for my water changes. Btw i bought 5gl of petco real ocean water at the beginning of the cycling process i have use 2gl. And for my top offs i use fresh water from petco. I think im doing something wrong but so far my tank has been really stable !!

No problem switching salt mixes to Reef Crystals if you prefer.

 

It's best to get a RO/DI unit; but if you want to purchase water, just buy distilled water from Walmart (or the grocery store).

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