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Korallen-Zucht ZEOvit Nano Thread


NanoTopia

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Yeah I had the same problem. It's starting to see it go away with cutting back on useage. I saw how good the zoa's were reacting too it I got trigger happy lol. But with daily scrubbing of the glass,they have plenty of pods to eat.

 

That may have been the issue though. I've noticed though,even when I was feeding heavily with it,my parameters were pretty stable and low and with me doing only 1 water change a week at 2 gallons,it was doing its job.

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Sump rebuild.

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/348444-sump-rebuild-acrylic-work/#entry4777309

 

I know that the skimmer is supposed to come before the Zeo Reactor. But what im finding is that my corals do not initiate feeding behaviors when I demulm. I can afford to feed my corals a rich and varied diet superior to bacterial mulm.

 

I did find a crack in my Zeo reactor, which I will patch, but it gives me confidence to drill into the cylindar for auto mulm flush.

 

Im just going to plumb 1inch PVC, silicone, and check valve in 1 inch, native to the pump. Pump will be controlled and timed to flush at regular times of the day. Will probably put a tie strapped sock on the Zeo out flow to catch the mulm. Biomate was a complete failure in my breeder ststem.

 

After the skimmer, theres a chamber for Cermedia ball, 1 gallon. Then over a baffle into the small return chamber.

 

Two designed area for DrsFS blue white floss in two areas, one right by the Zeo reactor. And one under the black eggcrate holding the balls in place.

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Hey everyone,

 

I am starting a new tank and I am trying to decide if I should run biopellets or zeovits. Currently I am running biopellets but I am considering switching to zeovit. My tank is about 6 weeks old and the only live stock I have is a maroon clownfish that just went in this week. My plan for this tank is an SPS tank with a few anemones. My current equipment is:

 

Tank: Mr Aqua 12G Long

Sump: 10G Breeder

Aquascape: Bare Bottom, ~12 Pounds of Pukani Dry Rock

Filtration: Filtersock, Carbon, and Phosguard

Biopellets: NP All-in-One Biopellets run in a CPR Nano Reactor

Skimmer: Bubble Magus Nac3.5

 

So here are my questions:

 

1. How would you recommend that I start with zeovit? What additives and how much of each would you recommend? Should I just switch over now because I dont have any corals, or do I need to phase out the biopellets and slowly start the zeovit system? Which additives should I start once I actually have corals?

 

2. One of my concerns is the zeovit reactor. Most of the ones I found online are very expensive and not made for a nano system. I was wondering if I really need a nano reactor or can I just put the stones in a bag in a high flow area of my sump (between the baffles)?

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Hey everyone,

 

I am starting a new tank and I am trying to decide if I should run biopellets or zeovits. Currently I am running biopellets but I am considering switching to zeovit. My tank is about 6 weeks old and the only live stock I have is a maroon clownfish that just went in this week. My plan for this tank is an SPS tank with a few anemones. My current equipment is:

 

Tank: Mr Aqua 12G Long

Sump: 10G Breeder

Aquascape: Bare Bottom, ~12 Pounds of Pukani Dry Rock

Filtration: Filtersock, Carbon, and Phosguard

Biopellets: NP All-in-One Biopellets run in a CPR Nano Reactor

Skimmer: Bubble Magus Nac3.5

 

So here are my questions:

 

1. How would you recommend that I start with zeovit? What additives and how much of each would you recommend? Should I just switch over now because I dont have any corals, or do I need to phase out the biopellets and slowly start the zeovit system? Which additives should I start once I actually have corals?

 

2. One of my concerns is the zeovit reactor. Most of the ones I found online are very expensive and not made for a nano system. I was wondering if I really need a nano reactor or can I just put the stones in a bag in a high flow area of my sump (between the baffles)?

You can either 1)-use a Clear Tides Zeo reactor,with a pump around 50-100gph from what Zeovit guild lines says. Though they're overseas but I believe it's around $100 -/+ shipped.

 

2)-use a TLF Phosban reactor with yet again a pump around 50-100gph. Give it a shake or two every day to knock mulm loose.

 

3)-BRS the Bubble Magus Zeo reactor for $135 plus shipping.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Vertex RX1.5 mod

 

I ordered 4 Vertex unions from Proline, took about 2 months to get in.

 

They are DIN 1/2" which is just a little smaller than US 1/2" pipe. BRS now sells the Vertex union conversions.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/vertex-conversion-union.html

 

Using the DIN unions I had to shrink the ends of the PVC pipe to fit. Since the inlet broke(see pic further back), Proline asked me to just use Weldon 16 to repair the connection (99.9% good as new). I had been working with Jen at Proline for the unions, I wasnt going to push this as a warrantee kind of thing.

 

Long story short, auto piping "was" going to tee into the riser pipe at 1/2". Now im going through the clear at 1" for less resistance and higher flow.

 

BRS is again out of 1" red PVC. Aquarium Specialty has it.

 

Pics here in a sec

20140719_125509.jpg

20140719_125446_1.jpg

 

The valve is now out of the water. BRS has the correct unions, need 2 for this mod.

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Just posted this updated schedule over in my build thread. Thought the readers here would also be interested.

 

This is a routine for a Full Zeo SPS build with only a couple fish and very clean water.

 

Dosing/Maintenance Schedule

Total NET Water Volume ~55g


Feeding

  • NLS Pellets daily
  • PE Mysis Rinsed and Soaked in Selcon (Once in a while)
  • Polyp Labs Reef Roids mixed w/Selcon (Once in a while)

Daily

  • 0.15 ml K-Z ZEOStart 2x daily (total of 0.3 ml)
  • 7ml Ca, 3ml Alk, 10 ml Mg (BRS Two Part)
  • 1 ml K-Z Pohls Xtra
  • 2 Drops K-Z Coral Vitalizer

Intermittent

  • 2 Drops of K-Z Sponge Power 3-4x weekly
  • 2 Drops of K-Z ZeoBak 2x weekly (Every other day for two weeks after ZeoLite Exchange)
  • 2 Drops of K-Z Potassium Iodide Flouride 3x weekly
  • 2 ml K-Z Coral Snow 2x weekly (once immediately after water change, once midweek)
  • 2 Drops of K-Z BioMate 2x weekly (w/ Coral Snow)
  • 2 ml K-Balance 2x weekly
  • 2 ml B-Balance 2x weekly
  • 2 Drops Amino Acid High Concentrate 1x weekly
  • 2 Drops Cyano Clean 1x weekly

Maintenance

  • 10% water change weekly (Vacuum sand bed bi-weekly)
  • Change Filter Floss 2x weekly
  • 250 ml of ESV Activated Carbon in media bag changed every 30 days
  • 500 ml K-Z ZeoLite in Vertex Reactor running 60 g/h change 90% every 6-8 weeks
  • Blast Rocks w/ Turkey Baster (Several times weekly)
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Why do people rinse mysis?

 

That stuff is rich in coral food, all of it small enough to cross coral tissue. I would buy mysis juice alone if it were offered.

 

Selcon kills my skimmer for a few hours, I dont know if that happens for others. Ive kinda stopped using it, the clam I bought it for hasnt noticed.

 

Cyano Clean did not work for me. Cutting back on ZeoStart and ZeoFood did.

 

I will leave out non KZ eqivalents to some of your planned stuff.

 

Ive finally ordered ZZ and ZeoSpur, getting ready to move corals to display tank. Ive decided actually on two tanks, one for sps and a few fish maybe, and a "dirty" LPS, fish, gorgonian, macro, garden eel, and softy tank(non Zeo). I have the sand for the SPS tank, ill put it in, but siphon it out if its a bother.

 

 

 

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Why do people rinse mysis? That stuff is rich in coral food, all of it small enough to cross coral tissue. I would buy mysis juice alone if it were offered. Selcon kills my skimmer for a few hours, I dont know if that happens for others. Ive kinda stopped using it, the clam I bought it for hasnt noticed. Cyano Clean did not work for me. Cutting back on ZeoStart and ZeoFood did. I will leave out non KZ eqivalents to some of your planned stuff. Ive finally ordered ZZ and ZeoSpur, getting ready to move corals to display tank. Ive decided actually on two tanks, one for sps and a few fish maybe, and a "dirty" LPS, fish, gorgonian, macro, garden eel, and softy tank(non Zeo). I have the sand for the SPS tank, ill put it in, but siphon it out if its a bother.

Mysis are a fresh water species, the liquid that accompanies the shrimp is undetermined. I rinse my PE mysis most of the time but once and a while (due to laziness) I just throw the cube in. The HUFA oils are in this liquid and I don't believe taken up by corals in a big way.

 

CyanoClean works in conjunction with good husbandry but I do agree, liquid carbon sources feed cyanobacteria along with the good bacteria.

 

Caution with the ZEOspur, I would start with ⅓ the recommended dose then wait 10 days.

 

I would use new sand in the SPS tank rather than transfer old sand. I always soak aragonite sand for 30 days in RO water before adding it to an aquarium. Seems to leach out any bound PO4. A 1" sand bed does help with tank stability and is easy to clean and keep detritus free.

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NanoTopia,

 

I just started using Zeovit in a tank which is only about 2 months old. Initially I planned on going BB in order to help keep nutrients low. However, your last post made it sound like having a sand bed would be better. Do you suggest adding a 1 inch sand bed? If so can you make any recommendations on a sand that would work well in a high flow tank without causing sand storms.

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NanoTopia, I just started using Zeovit in a tank which is only about 2 months old. Initially I planned on going BB in order to help keep nutrients low. However, your last post made it sound like having a sand bed would be better. Do you suggest adding a 1 inch sand bed? If so can you make any recommendations on a sand that would work well in a high flow tank without causing sand storms.

I do not recommend "live" sand, it is very problematic with Zeovit. Dry aragonite 2-5mm is best to use at a depth of 1". Additionally I recommend soaking the sand in RO water for at least 2 weeks before adding it to the aquarium to leach out PO4. CaribSea makes a aragonite 1-3mm which works pretty well.

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NanoTopia - I am considering a tank upgrade and have a couple questions. For reference, I am looking at the CAD 34G Mini. This a great because I can base a lot off of what Tron is doing, but I still do have some questions:

 

1) I am definitely would be using the PLS-50 Elite skimmer. Should I consider adding the reactor that CAD sells? Can this be used for the Zeo stones, or do you have to use a specific reactor?

2) I would like to do the 14 day zeo cycle. If your answer to my first question is no, can I still effectively do the zeo cycle without the stones/reactor?

3) I am estimating my actual water volume would be appx. 25 gallons. With that being said, how would this sound for the initial cycle and ongoing dosing schedule:

 

Initial Dose:

ZEObak: 5ml

ZeoStart3: 10ml

Sponge Power: 3ml

 

Days 4-14:

Zeobak: 1 drop 2 times per week

Zeostart3: 0.2ml per day

Sponge Power: 1 drop per day

 

Ongoing dosing after cycle completes:

Pohl's Xtra Special: 1ml daily

Sponge Power: 1 drop 2 times per week

Coral Vitalizer: 1 drop 3 times per week

AAHS: 1 drop 2 times per week

Coral Snow/ZEObak: 1ml CS combined with 1 drop of ZB 2 times per week

 

Finally, would you recommend I consider dosing anything else. I will be planning on using Brightwell Code A/B for keeping Calcium and Alk stable once the time comes, as well as Brightwell Magnesion for Magnesium. I have thought about doing BBalance and ZeoLife, but do not really know much about either.

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1) I am definitely would be using the PLS-50 Elite skimmer. Should I consider adding the reactor that CAD sells? Can this be used for the Zeo stones, or do you have to use a specific reactor? It is most important to control flow through the reactor and the ability to shake the stones. If the reactor you want to use will allow for this, it should be okay. Alternatively I have heard of people placing the stones in a mesh bag in the rear chamber but I have not tried this myself. Flow would be the biggest issue to overcome in this case.

2) I would like to do the 14 day zeo cycle. If your answer to my first question is no, can I still effectively do the zeo cycle without the stones/reactor? You need the stones, they are the heart of the system.

3) I am estimating my actual water volume would be appx. 25 gallons. With that being said, how would this sound for the initial cycle and ongoing dosing schedule:

 

250mL of ZEOlites @ 25 GPH flow rate (no higher)

 

Initial Dose:

ZEObak: 5ml

ZeoStart3: 10ml Go with 5mL initial dose

Sponge Power: 3ml

 

Days 4-14:

Zeobak: 1 drop 2 times per week 1 drop 3 times a week

Zeostart3: 0.2ml per day 0.1mL per day divided into 2 doses (am/pm)

Sponge Power: 1 drop per day

 

Ongoing dosing after cycle completes:

Pohl's Xtra Special: 1ml daily wait until corals are in place and the tank is low nutrient and stable for a few weeks

Sponge Power: 1 drop 2 times per week 1 drop every other day

Coral Vitalizer: 1 drop 3 times per week wait until corals are in place and the tank is low nutrient and stable for a few weeks

AAHS: 1 drop 2 times per week wait until corals are in place and the tank is low nutrient and stable for a few weeks

Coral Snow/ZEObak: 1ml CS combined with 1 drop of ZB 2 3 times per week Yes I recommend

 

Generally you should wait before dosing additives outside of the basics until the tank is nutrient stable, this will also depend on the colour of coral tissue.

 

Consider Biomate once the tank is stocked with fish and corals. Other additives will depend on the corals you keep and if any problems occur etc. Don't be scared to stock the tank with fish (slowly), the system will benefit from it. Hope I answered everything :)

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Christine - Thank you for the wealth of information, as usual. I did a bit more research on the CAD reactor. The reason I want to use that one is it is designed for the 34G Mini, and therefore can be easily hidden in the rear chambers. I would rather not run a reactor than see some hideous reactor sticking out the top of the tank. With that being said, it seems there is an option for a control valve, so it should be able to control flow through the reactor. The only problem I see is it states that you can fit up to 150ml of bio-pellets. I am assuming that means I would only be able to fit appx 150ml of the zeostones. How big of a set back do you think it would be to only use 150ml vs the 250ml you recommended? As far as the ability to shake it on a weekly basis, I wouldn't see that being an issue.

 

I may just decide not to run the stones/reactor and stick to CS, ZB, and the nano package. It seems to work for Tron, and it is working for me in my Nuvo 8 right now. I just saw the chance to run a clean AIO on full Zeovit and figured it was at least worth investigating. What do you think?

 

On another side note, if I do not run the stones/reactor, that basically means the zeocycle is out of the question, as you stated above. I am planning on cycling with dry rock and do not really want to seed it with live rock. I really just do not want to deal with the possibility of bad hitchhikers and also prefer the clean look of a system started with dry rock. Have you ever heard of using zeobak to seed the system for good bacteria? Would you have any better recommendations as far as to set myself up for a good, solid ULNS?

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I have a 27g display, with a 8 gallon display fuge. With sump I figure my total volume around 35-40 gallons. Been looking into the zeo stuff and the pictures are amazing. I've used the nano pack when brs had it on sale without knowing much about the whole system and did notice some results.

Basically my question is, would it be beneficial to start a full or partial zeo routine on a mixed reef that's been running about 2 years already?

Equiptment wise I'm running a oversized skimmer, and run gfo and rox carbon in a brs reactor. Dose with esv 2 part. Any other info needed to help make a decision let me know.

Here's a few pics from a few weeks ago, I've added a few things since.

6751E759-94D1-4849-9ACA-DD235952E8DC_zps

And fuge

CD465EC5-F84B-4296-9619-F26F8B53FA51_zps

B623B766-6B7D-4272-8C2A-410085325B83_zps

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Christine - Thank you for the wealth of information, as usual. I did a bit more research on the CAD reactor. The reason I want to use that one is it is designed for the 34G Mini, and therefore can be easily hidden in the rear chambers. I would rather not run a reactor than see some hideous reactor sticking out the top of the tank. With that being said, it seems there is an option for a control valve, so it should be able to control flow through the reactor. The only problem I see is it states that you can fit up to 150ml of bio-pellets. I am assuming that means I would only be able to fit appx 150ml of the zeostones. How big of a set back do you think it would be to only use 150ml vs the 250ml you recommended? As far as the ability to shake it on a weekly basis, I wouldn't see that being an issue.

 

I may just decide not to run the stones/reactor and stick to CS, ZB, and the nano package. It seems to work for Tron, and it is working for me in my Nuvo 8 right now. I just saw the chance to run a clean AIO on full Zeovit and figured it was at least worth investigating. What do you think?

 

On another side note, if I do not run the stones/reactor, that basically means the zeocycle is out of the question, as you stated above. I am planning on cycling with dry rock and do not really want to seed it with live rock. I really just do not want to deal with the possibility of bad hitchhikers and also prefer the clean look of a system started with dry rock. Have you ever heard of using zeobak to seed the system for good bacteria? Would you have any better recommendations as far as to set myself up for a good, solid ULNS?

If you install a return pump that pumps 50GPH and run the stones in a mesh bag in the rear middle or last chamber, this will allow for you to shake the stones daily and you should get around 25GPH flow through the stones. It is not optimum and may require some tweaking along the way but it should work. You don't need a lot of flow through the rear chamber for filtration to be effective, in fact lower flow is much better for filtration, sump or otherwise.

 

One of the things that make ZEOvit so effective are the stones, not their specific bacteria so much however, their bacterial strains are the best on the market IMO. There are many people running hybrid systems successfully so that is also an option for you.

 

Part of running a successful ULNS is what materials you start off with in the first place, mainly rock and substrate. If those have PO4 leaching it will not be achievable for quite some time. Choose rock and sand carefully, soak both in RO water (if dry rock) for some time and check for PO4 before adding it to the tank. If live rock it can also leach bound nutrients to the tank so rock should be clean and healthy, well cured.

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I have a 27g display, with a 8 gallon display fuge. With sump I figure my total volume around 35-40 gallons. Been looking into the zeo stuff and the pictures are amazing. I've used the nano pack when brs had it on sale without knowing much about the whole system and did notice some results.

Basically my question is, would it be beneficial to start a full or partial zeo routine on a mixed reef that's been running about 2 years already?

Equiptment wise I'm running a oversized skimmer, and run gfo and rox carbon in a brs reactor. Dose with esv 2 part. Any other info needed to help make a decision let me know.

 

 

Hi,

 

It is possible to change over to the Zeovit system but keep in mind in some cases results will take a bit longer. This may be to do with slowly removing bound nutrients that exist in the tank currently.

 

Do you have room for a Zeo-Reactor in the sump if you remove the GFO reactor?

 

I would also suggest you remove and replace your current sand bed slowly prior to starting. 1" aragonite 2-5mm grain is preferred.

 

Refugiums are not good with ZEOvit, it's mainly the sand bed that causes issues, you can keep the refugium but I would remove the sand bed completely and go BB, just keep rock.

 

GFO binds PO4 to rock and substrate over time, this may cause a small delay in reducing nutrients in your tank. The addition of KZ Biomate bacteria and Coral Snow will help solve this problem over time as well.

 

ROX carbon is too aggressive for ZEOvit, I recommend Seachem Matrix carbon or the KZ carbon flown passively in the sump, not in a reactor.

 

Do not expect immediate results when converting an old tank to ZEOvit but if done correctly amazing results will come in time.

 

Check out post #1 in this thread for some links that will help with understanding the system in whole :)

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Hi,

 

It is possible to change over to the Zeovit system but keep in mind in some cases results will take a bit longer. This may be to do with slowly removing bound nutrients that exist in the tank currently.

 

Do you have room for a Zeo-Reactor in the sump if you remove the GFO reactor?

 

I would also suggest you remove and replace your current sand bed slowly prior to starting. 1" aragonite 2-5mm grain is preferred.

 

Refugiums are not good with ZEOvit, it's mainly the sand bed that causes issues, you can keep the refugium but I would remove the sand bed completely and go BB, just keep rock.

 

GFO binds PO4 to rock and substrate over time, this may cause a small delay in reducing nutrients in your tank. The addition of KZ Biomate bacteria and Coral Snow will help solve this problem over time as well.

 

ROX carbon is too aggressive for ZEOvit, I recommend Seachem Matrix carbon or the KZ carbon flown passively in the sump, not in a reactor.

 

Do not expect immediate results when converting an old tank to ZEOvit but if done correctly amazing results will come in time.

 

Check out post #1 in this thread for some links that will help with understanding the system in whole :)

Thank you! That really answered alot of my questions. I guess the best option in my case would be not to convert on this tank, but in the next few months I'm planning on moving so when I do I was going to start another tank that was larger. Maybe my best option would be on that tank starting it correctly from day 1, or starting another small tank to get accustomed to this system.

 

Would any of the zeo additives be beneficial to my current setup without implying the whole zeo system?

 

Would any of the zeo additives be beneficial to my current setup without implying the whole zeo system?

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Thank you! That really answered alot of my questions. I guess the best option in my case would be not to convert on this tank, but in the next few months I'm planning on moving so when I do I was going to start another tank that was larger. Maybe my best option would be on that tank starting it correctly from day 1, or starting another small tank to get accustomed to this system.

 

Would any of the zeo additives be beneficial to my current setup without implying the whole zeo system?

 

Would any of the zeo additives be beneficial to my current setup without implying the whole zeo system?

Ya, if you are moving you have the option to start fresh I would do that.

 

For now you could experiment with BIOmate and Coral snow, this will help reduce mulm and bound nutrients in your system lowering PO4 and NO3. A reduction in nutrients generally has the most profound effect on corals and the tank as a whole.

 

(see below*) Dose BIOmate 2 drops mixed with Coral Snow 2 drops every other day for 10 doses, then dose twice a week. Skim slightly wet for the first 10 doses.

 

*Continue dosing the KZ nano pack after the 10 BIOmate doses indicated above.

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Ya, if you are moving you have the option to start fresh I would do that.

 

For now you could experiment with BIOmate and Coral snow, this will help reduce mulm and bound nutrients in your system lowering PO4 and NO3. A reduction in nutrients generally has the most profound effect on corals and the tank as a whole.

 

(see below*) Dose BIOmate 2 drops mixed with Coral Snow 2 drops every other day for 10 doses, then dose twice a week. Skim slightly wet for the first 10 doses.

 

*Continue dosing the KZ nano pack after the 10 BIOmate doses indicated above.

Thank you! I just seen your build and the organizing of your equiptment is unreal! Really impressed, not to

Mention your sps. What type if tank is that? It looked like a 30 cube but seen its only 20? Interested to hear the brand and dims. Really looks like a bigger tank than it is. Amazing job

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Thank you! I just seen your build and the organizing of your equiptment is unreal! Really impressed, not to

Mention your sps. What type if tank is that? It looked like a 30 cube but seen its only 20? Interested to hear the brand and dims. Really looks like a bigger tank than it is. Amazing job

Thanks Skuba,

 

Just some generic tank I picked up cheap 3 years ago.

 

Dims = 60 x 34 x 40cm (23.5 x 16 x 13inches)

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My ZZ, ZSpur, ZBak, and stones x3 came in. Yeah!

 

I suggest others to stock up before the July sale ends.

 

Its like 20% for most stuff. I got the small ZeoZym, its a big container for being small size. It wont even fit in my ZeoBox.

 

20140726_11425_edit_1406400333681.jpg

 

 

My 1" check valve is in. Waiting on the 1" red PVC for my auto reactor mod, Aquarium Specialty. First order from them.

 

Oh and from that other thread, I love the bag idea for the small stones. Im going to try that. I tried the grate made from plastic canvas, fail.

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My ZZ, ZSpur, ZBak, and stones x3 came in. Yeah!

 

I suggest others to stock up before the July sale ends.

 

Its like 20% for most stuff. I got the small ZeoZym, its a big container for being small size. It wont even fit in my ZeoBox.

 

 

My 1" check valve is in. Waiting on the 1" red PVC for my auto reactor mod, Aquarium Specialty. First order from them.

 

Oh and from that other thread, I love the bag idea for the small stones. Im going to try that. I tried the grate made from plastic canvas, fail.

They use one container for the ZZ, only fill it half way for the 250g size. :)

 

ZEOspur2 contains copper amongst other things and makes zooxanthelle leave the tissue of SPS, and LPS. I would not use on a new tank or with corals that are not 100% healthy. Slight overdose of this product can kill corals in 48 hours. I have had most issues with LPS, namely Favia sp. they bleach really easily. Trick is to start with 25% the recommended dose, wait 14 days, if corals are not getting lighter you do not have enough BB saturation or you need to increase the amount slightly next time. I just dosed again two days ago (2 drops) and I can see some lightening in SPS and one Favia is showing some bleaching, nothing serious but to show you that 2 drop in a 25g net tank is enough to alter corals. Just thought I would mention this :)

 

Congrats on the new products.

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