Horerczy Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 I love Future Electronics packaging. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 I just got all of my leds in. I went a totally seperate route from where I was going to go. Mock up cluster: Closeup of the SemiLED: There will be three clusters of this they consist of the following: 1 Bridgelux 4000k 80cri V8 1 Luxeon K 8up Royal Blue 2 Luxeon Rebel ES Lime 2 Luxeon Rebel ES Cool Blue 1 SemiLEDs N5 Violet (RLL's version) 1 Luxeon Rebel ES PC Amber (Moonlight experiment) There will be two T5s mixed in with them. I'm thinking of later trading those out for more leds run along the length of the fixture at low currents with some translucent white material to difuse them and to use as an actinic supplement to the clusters. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Awww, the V8 are itty bitty Link to comment
CrazyEyes Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 I love Future Electronics packaging. I was surprised when I got mine from Future, it really is awesome how they package their LEDs. Tagging along with this build. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 Awww, the V8 are itty bitty They are indeed. Link to comment
fredfish01 Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 I'm curious to know how these clusters will blend without the T5s. Damn thats a lot of light for a 40 gallon tank. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted June 21, 2014 Author Share Posted June 21, 2014 It is. I plan to turn it down a lot though. Link to comment
cichlidtx Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 How's the project going? Any updates? Link to comment
Horerczy Posted August 4, 2014 Author Share Posted August 4, 2014 A lot of updates to do Sorry. I had to scrap the idea of using the T5 Lamps. The new way I will have the leds and power supplies mounted takes up too much room. Some pictures of what I've been up too. The led clusters are getting streched out for the new mounting. The Aluminum L bars will be drilled and then have 4-40 screws run through them to a nut in the heatsink channels. This will allow them to rest on the fixture. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/misogi/media/20140804_001929_zpsagos0k9i.jpg.html'> Cluster closeup. Still the same diode combination. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/misogi/media/20140804_002105_zpsjml8gjmp.jpg.html'> More L bars will hold up the two driverboards. There are going to be nylon washers and spacers to ensure the boards remain electronically isolated from the aluminum bar. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/misogi/media/20140804_002006_zps22bltf7r.jpg.html'> The power supplies are already mounted. The leds and driver boards will be mounted parallel to them. There's no room to fit the T5s because of this. There will still be more than enough light to go around. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/misogi/media/20140804_002530_zpsllo8j9ik.jpg.html'> The fans are going to me mounted though the top of the fixture. I'm planning on using a nibbler or something similar to bite through the top vents so the fans can fit securely. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted August 5, 2014 Author Share Posted August 5, 2014 Nothings mounted but this I'd a close approximation to what the light should look like upon completion. Link to comment
cichlidtx Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 Very nice and thanks for the update. Looking forward to seeing the results of your combination. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 Blag i hate wiring. Because i do stupid stuff like this Ordered a replacement from mouser. $19 down the tube. Link to comment
cichlidtx Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Looking good. Too bad about the lifted pad, it happens. Are those pads Pre-tinned, if not try that first then solder the wire. You may already know this but just thought I would mention it. Nice job. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted August 9, 2014 Author Share Posted August 9, 2014 I tinned the pad. I did that checking for cold solder joints. Link to comment
cichlidtx Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 I did the same thing on my 1st LED light because the pads were tinned Pbfree and I left the iron in contact a little long. Live and learn in DIY projects.. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Lead-free is for squares, hate that some companies are pretinning LED pads with it. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 Lead free solder is a pain to work with. pb/sn solder ftw. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 63/37 rosin core to be precise Link to comment
Horerczy Posted August 10, 2014 Author Share Posted August 10, 2014 I think I'm working with something with a higher lead ratio. Still rosin core though. Link to comment
Horerczy Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 Got the replacement k from mouser today. Soldered it up real quick. I didn't want to use the black wire again as I'm sure its weight contributed to the ripped up solder pad on the last board (well that and my tugging on the wire hard because it appears to be a cold solder joint). So i used a magic marker and colored the ends if the wire black so i remember what its for later down the road. Light is still a wire spaghetti mess. That's ok though as its nothing that gratuitous use of the animal husbandry skill can't fix. Or maybe its this stuff. either way all that's left is to get everything wired up and make holes for the fans and use some rtv gasket maker on the fans to keep them quiet and apply the Arctic silver to the bottoms of the mcpcbs and flagrantly abuse the word and to create even more run on sentences. Link to comment
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