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Coral Vue Hydros

Evil Cluster 40B setup.


Horerczy

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Ok so my light has gone through a few revamps. It's now going to be three Mini (relative to a standard one at least) Evil Clusters.

 

Mock up:

20140620_003909_zpsbi1ov1iu.jpg

 

Things will obviously need to be jerry rigged a little so everything fits well. There will be three of these clusters.

 

Cluster Contents are:

 

1 - 4000K 80CRI Bridgelux V8

1 - Luxeon K Royal Blue 8up

2 - Luxeon Rebel ES True Cool Blue

2 - Luxeon Rebel ES Lime

1 - SemiLEDs N5 Violet (RLL's spectrum)

1 - Luxeon Rebel ES PC Amber

 

There will be two 39W T5 lamps as well run off of an 2x39W HEP ballast. Not enough room to do this

 

Original post

 

 

 

I'm working on the design for a DIY light for this tank and I'm completely at a loss on how to go about it.

LED Selection is not the problem but rather form factor. No question about it the light has to be black possibly with nickle accents to help match the stand.

I also want to incorporate T5 lighting as a supplement. Two bulbs I think. One each on either end of the leds should be enough.

For Leds I'm thinking either two of the Lumia 5.2 or two of the Borealis Arrays supplemented with the violets that are missing from either designs spectrum.

When I have an idea for what the light will look like I'll make some layouts for the Leds themselves.

Edit:


Alright so I ordered a light. T5 6 Lamp 36 inch fixture with integrated timer.
Link http://www.ebay.com/itm/140928759760?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I've also decided to go with two of the Borealis Arrays from RapidLED.
Link: http://www.rapidled.com/borealis-luxeon-z-array-37-led/

When I determine space left from ripping out the T5s in the middle I will order heatsinks from Heatsink USA. (I will put them in sideways)
Link: http://www.heatsinkusa.com/8-460-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink-with-t-slots/

Getting this power supply when I have the cash:
http://www.onlinecomponents.com/mean-well-hlg240h48a.html?p=37809850

I think instead of using violet LEDs for supplement I will rely on some of the more actinic purple T5s to fill in the gaps and could use reccomendations on which lamps are best for the job that wont break the bank. I know the lamps with the fixture I ordered ain't nothing but filler bulbs.

For Power Supply I'm thinking Meanwell HLG but don't know which one to go with. I estimate the Borealis arrays to be a little more than 100W each so. I know I'll need the 48V one for the larger chanels and the smaller ones LDD will ask for so little current I shouldn't need to get a 6.8 amp one. Also A, B, or C type?

I'll get 4 LDD 700H from LEDGroupbuy (I already own 4 1000H) along with fans and fan power supply.

Also any suggestions on LED controller? I'm considering a Typhon and using Meepy's code with that neat bell curve or a Storm x and trying to find someone that can modify it's code to set times for individual channels so I can get one array to light up at a time to get that sun crossing the tank look.

 

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i would say run a bar with a flange into the cabinet, then bend a 90 and make it a hanging bar. then mount the t5's front and back single bulb units.

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so hanging kit is no a option?

Hanging is the only option. or some bent conduit. It's the form factor of the unit itself that bothers me.

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Kee Klamp

Bosch T Slot 80/20 stuff.

That's one cool functional stand, gives it a penisula look. Who built it?

That looks like a 40 breeder, is it?

 

Yup, 40B. The sump is a 30L.

 

My dad's buddy is a certified master carpenter stand only cost me the parts to build it. Still ran me a little over $300 since he insisted and I agreed on top quality lumber.

 

I didn't have the tank drilled peninsula style actually. I thought about it but I'm going with a back center style overflow instead.

 

 

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Think I'm going to do something like the illumilux with two multichip boards and a few violet clusters. Need some sort of t5 strip to match that. Hmmm ....

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You didn't like the link I gave you. Pretty much design anything and any color.

i haven't been about to look yet
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Been looking. My pickness does not mesh well with the rather limited selection of 36" T5 fixtures. Think I

I'll hit up home depot tomorrow and see if I cant find something there.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone know where I can get a PAR sensor on the cheap? Don't want to spend a ton of cash on a top brand dealy.

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Finally got some heatsink measurements and put in an order though Heatsink USA for two 3.25" extrusions of their 8.460" T-Slot Heatsinks.

 

Gonna be a tight fit but it will be just sleightly larger than 80mm Fans that wll be used to keep the leds cool and get the heat out of the fixture.

 

Trying to figure out if replacing the balasts while keeping the timer is possible. I will post pictures later of the skinned light fixture. Build quality is pretty decent for what I paid (Meaning I found several stripped screws and the reflector isn't exactly top shelf). It's adequate.

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Ps, Im still testing my hypothesis that diffused LEDs can mimic the growth of LED/T5 combo, while retaining LED "shimmer".

 

I note that there is increased lateral growth on two of my faster growing acros, a Cali blue tort and a blue tenuis, been what, a week.

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I guess if all else fails I'll rent the dang thing take my tests and ship it back the next day. It will be a while before I need need one anyways.

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jedimasterben

Ps, Im still testing my hypothesis that diffused LEDs can mimic the growth of LED/T5 combo, while retaining LED "shimmer".

 

I note that there is increased lateral growth on two of my faster growing acros, a Cali blue tort and a blue tenuis, been what, a week.

It can definitely happen, but the light still needs to be distributed, so the LEDs can't be all close together.

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It can definitely happen, but the light still needs to be distributed, so the LEDs can't be all close together.

My evil cluster is on the 6x20 heatsink from rapid. I just sanded the plexi splashguard with 600 sand paper until opaque. The LEDs are as tight as they can fit, so 2 ~5" clusters square. Its also going through white eggcrate, I just bought some known jumping fish I would like to keep for awhile.

 

Another thought occured to me. Saturday I went skiing. SPF 30 to the face and ears, except around the eyes, I have sunglasses on, and a hat or helmet on. Where do I get sunburn, around my eyes from the reflection off the white snow on the ground, up under my hat and sunglasses.

 

Tank is barebottom, it's a frag tank. I would think that even more increased distribution of ambient light would occur with a white sand bottom. Or if bottom of tank were painted white(or that silver reflective paint).

 

Ive almost bought a used ATI version similar to what Horerczy bought, working on the same thought of running LEDs down through the space for the middle two tubes. Many notable successful reefs are under the LED/T5 combo. The success is undeniable. Anyway, the 6 tube ATI is wired funky; 2 channels, one with 2 outside tubes, the other with 4 which include the middle 2 tubes.

 

Even got an estimate from Dave for one of his beautiful hybrids, half a year ago. I am sold on the idea of the LED/T5 thing, it just hasn't happened yet.

 

It's funny, many LED manufacturers sell how crystal clear efficient their splashguards are. When opaque lenses or splashguards may be what reduces LED burned or bleached corals and increases growth overall and greater lateral growth.

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  • 1 month later...

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