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Cheap DIY LED build - Need help/Suggestions!


wyssj

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I am NOT an electrician and a lot of this stuff is over my head. But, I am a smart guy so I think I am starting to figure this all out. I am looking for some guidance though as I want to get this built in the next two weeks before I go out of state for a month.

 

I want to set up a DIY LED light in the custom canopy I have built for my Evolve 8. My dimensions of working space are 12x12 inches. I want dimming on 2 strands of LEDs (3RB and 2UV for the first/4 CW for the second).

 

Here is my shopping list so far:

 

Power supply - $7.99

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321331823477?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Double Dimming Driver - $22.99

http://shop.stevesleds.com/The-Double-Dimming-LED-Driver-Double-Driver.htm

 

Potentiometer - only need one more since the driver comes with one - $1.99

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310741600782?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

LEDs are all the solderless Phillips ones from RapidLED - $34.25

http://www.rapidled.com/solderless/

 

Wiring to connect driver to LED strings - $2.00

http://www.rapidled.com/driver-jumper/

 

Ends for LED strings - $1.50

http://www.rapidled.com/solderless-led-plug/

 

Thermal Paste - $1.99

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181161482795

 

Total: $70.21

 

Also, looking to use a sheet of tin for the "heatsink". I already have a fan in the canopy that will be pulling air through it and I think I will be adding an additional fan on the inside as well for increased air circulation. I am hoping this will be sufficient.

 

I think I have it all figured out but I was wondering if I could get confirmation that the power supply will work with the driver and will be sufficient for a string of 4 and 5 LEDs. Should I find a 36V power supply instead of the 24V?

 

Suggestions would be great too!

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If it's actual tin, then don't use it. It has a thermal resistance 8 times greater than aluminum. Aluminum is cheap. If you don't want to use traditional heatsinks, then use c-channel as a heatsink.

 

As for the fan, you want the airflow blowing into the hood. It's far more efficient when it comes to cooling a heatsink than sucking air out of the hood.

 

Why cool white? Everyone is using neutral white (4500K) for enhanced color rendering. If you decide to change to neutral white, you will have to alter you LED setup. You typically want a higher ratio of blue to white when using neutrals. I would suggest something like 3 neutrals and 2 cool blue on one driver, and 4 royals and 2 violets (they aren't UV, no matter what Rapid calls them) on the other. The 24v supply you linked to will work as long as you keep the LEDs per driver limited to 6 and under.

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jedimasterben

Steve's 'double' driver is a single driver with two channels. It has one dimming circuit, so you can't dim the channels independently.

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If it's actual tin, then don't use it. It has a thermal resistance 8 times greater than aluminum. Aluminum is cheap. If you don't want to use traditional heatsinks, then use c-channel as a heatsink.

 

As for the fan, you want the airflow blowing into the hood. It's far more efficient when it comes to cooling a heatsink than sucking air out of the hood.

 

Why cool white? Everyone is using neutral white (4500K) for enhanced color rendering. If you decide to change to neutral white, you will have to alter you LED setup. You typically want a higher ratio of blue to white when using neutrals. I would suggest something like 3 neutrals and 2 cool blue on one driver, and 4 royals and 2 violets (they aren't UV, no matter what Rapid calls them) on the other. The 24v supply you linked to will work as long as you keep the LEDs per driver limited to 6 and under.

I totally meant aluminum…not tin. But thanks for pointing that out.

I also was looking into the C-channel route so after you mentioning that, I think I will do it that way.

Thanks for the advice on the colors, I think that'll be a good choice.

 

Steve's 'double' driver is a single driver with two channels. It has one dimming circuit, so you can't dim the channels independently.

Bummer!! Thought I could save some money that way…oh well. I will have to look and see what else is out there. Thanks for pointing it out though. I would have been mad when I got it setup.

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