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How do I know when to start using GFO?


potatowned

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I've read that the test kits are all pretty much junk. I've read that if you have algae, then you have phosphates. I've read that if you are feeding your fish, then you will have phosphates.

 

My new fish are actually horrible at catching food. Mysis , pellets, flakes, it doesn't matter if I turn off the flow in the tank, or if the food is in front of them. They for whatever reason let a lot of food get away and now I am worried about phosphate levels.

 

Should I just put a bag of GFO in my refugium along with the carbon? I don't have a reactor, sump or skimmer in this tank.

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BeardedReeferLLC

If you test and you have Po4 traces in your water. Thats a good sign to start using GFO.

 

Yes you can use it in a mesh bag if you want, just a reactor does a better job IMO. But you use what you have on hand.

 

Also Note: Make sure you start off slow and only add 1/4 to a 1/2 of the recommended GFO for your aquarium size you do not want to over do it. Over the first couple of weeks depending how bad it may be you can add more to build it up to full cycle.

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If you test and you have Po4 traces in your water. Thats a good sign to start using GFO.

 

Yes you can use it in a mesh bag if you want, just a reactor does a better job IMO. But you use what you have on hand.

 

Also Note: Make sure you start off slow and only add 1/4 to a 1/2 of the recommended GFO for your aquarium size you do not want to over do it. Over the first couple of weeks depending how bad it may be you can add more to build it up to full cycle.

How will I determine if I need more GFO? If algae persists?

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I've read that the test kits are all pretty much junk.

Hmm, I wouldn't agree with that. API's might not be junk, but it is worthless (because it tests in 0.25ppm increments and the target value is 0.03ppm). There are higher resolution tests that have more value (Salifert and Red Sea Pro are decent enough). I use the Hanna Phosphorus Checker which does a reasonably good job of determining inorganic phosphate levels (phosphate not bound in plants and animals).

 

I've read that if you have algae, then you have phosphates.

If you have algae, you have bound organic phosphate. Some people use the growth rate of algae as an indicator of phosphate levels.

 

I've read that if you are feeding your fish, then you will have phosphates.

Yes food is typically the leading source of phosphate. As far as phosphate is concerned, it doesn't matter if everything gets eaten or not (you are still importing phosphate).

 

Should I just put a bag of GFO in my refugium along with the carbon? I don't have a reactor, sump or skimmer in this tank.

Without a reactor, I'd use Phosguard instead of GFO. GFO can clump if not tumbled, plus it's not as efficient when used without a reactor.

 

Testing is still important when using phosphate reducing media. It will tell you when the media is spent or if you are being too aggressive and driving the phosphate level down too far (and/or too fast).

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When we use hobby grade kits, it's hard to get absolutely accurate results. Add the fact that a lot of the test kits, that they used in the article, had expired and some people didn't perform the tests properly (or interpret them correctly), and you would expect to get varying results. I sometimes get a stray result and have to perform the test over to verify it.

 

However, this doesn't mean that testing has no value. They give us a baseline to compare subsequent results, help us compute consumption rates, help us determine maintenance schedules/procedures, and let us know when certain media needs replaced. Certain brands are better than others, and using the same brand for all of the elements you test for isn't always the best approach.

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