How "perfect" should a DIY stand be? PLEASE HELP!

[HM3105]

I need some help with my stand build please.

 

This is for a 40b with a 29g sump.

 

How perfect does a DIY stand need to be? I don't mean cosmetics I mean structurally? I've spent the last 3 weekends building the frame for my stand and it sits level BUT on one corner there is a 1/8"-1/10" gap that does not sit on the ground because the 2x4's did not match up correctly. I bought some plastic shims for final the install AND I sanded down the 2x4 rails so the actual tank will be sitting flat around the frame.

 

 

Thank you in advance.

[evilc66]

As long as the tank sits flat on the stand after water is added, then it really doesn't matter. You did the right thing by making sure the top of the stand is flat for the tank. You can shim the bottom as much as you like at that point. Just don't shim only the corner. Once you get it level, add shims along the edges to fill in the gap. This will reduce the point loading of the corner in question, and reduce the stress on the underlying floor.

[HM3105]

Ok so today I brought the 40b down to actually test fit the final product. I tested the frames before completing it of course but this is the test for once its all put together.

 

I ended up putting a 1/2" sheet of plywood over the top for the tank to sit on so that it would get better contact. The problem I've run into is that one side is too low by 1/8- 1/4" and creating a gap between the tank and the plywood. It is enough that the tank will rock when I push it down.

 

I have plastic shims which I'm using to to get the ply wood covering to match up with the frame on the bottom of the tank but I'm not sure how perfect it needs to match. I've been putting a flash light on the inside of the tank and I can still see slivers of light between the tank frame and the plywood on the end where I'm shimming it (but it doesn't rock). I thought that once I got the shims set I would fill the extra spaces (with the shims still in place) with wood glue maybe to provide some extra support between the plywood and the frame.

 

Is there any hope for this? I really don't want to start over, so what are my options? please help

[Nanofreak79]

The four corners need to sit flat on a braced tank. This is why you see stands that only have the tank sitting on the edges with no support in the middle, such as my perfecto 120 stand had. I would start over if I had an issue like that. Something is either twisted or not cut right.

[HM3105]

The four corners need to sit flat on a braced tank. This is why you see stands that only have the tank sitting on the edges with no support in the middle, such as my perfecto 120 stand had. I would start over if I had an issue like that. Something is either twisted or not cut right.

 

Thanks nano. Nit trying to argue just trying to understand. If I shim the plywood under the one corner that is too low, the other corner on the same side sits ok with barely any shim, would that work or not?

 

Also, could I maybe sand down or lathe the rest of the rails to even it out?

 

The reason this one side is too low is because I sanded down the top of the 2x4 rails to get them to be more uniform. I guess it could be structural like you're saying. I know it's stupid I just don't want to start over again.

 

Thank you for your help..

[Nanofreak79]

Thanks nano. Nit trying to argue just trying to understand. If I shim the plywood under the one corner that is too low, the other corner on the same side sits ok with barely any shim, would that work or not?

 

Also, could I maybe sand down or lathe the rest of the rails to even it out?

 

The reason this one side is too low is because I sanded down the top of the 2x4 rails to get them to be more uniform. I guess it could be structural like you're saying. I know it's stupid I just don't want to start over again.

 

Thank you for your help..

 

Well, the biggest thing next to a sound tank is the stand. If it's not level, or sitting good, your asking for trouble. I wasn't trying to be a dick. Don't shim the top, only the bottom at floor level. If you can fit a credit card or piece of paper under it and it disappears.....well I've been there. I've used the thick 1/2" pink foam from HD before, although that's not a perfect fix. Redoing stuff sucks, but sometimes it's worth it. Got any pics?

[HM3105]

Well, the biggest thing next to a sound tank is the stand. If it's not level, or sitting good, your asking for trouble. I wasn't trying to be a dick. Don't shim the top, only the bottom at floor level. If you can fit a credit card or piece of paper under it and it disappears.....well I've been there. I've used the thick 1/2" pink foam from HD before, although that's not a perfect fix. Redoing stuff sucks, but sometimes it's worth it. Got any pics?

For reference the plywood sheet is 1/2"

 

[Nanofreak79]

I see the corner touching? Is that right? If all four corners are touching your good. The weight across the middle is supported by the frame. You can see old style wrought iron stands where only the sides are supported, same difference. You could still use some heavy pink foam, and cover up with trim.

[HM3105]

I see the corner touching? Is that right? If all four corners are touching your good. The weight across the middle is supported by the frame. You can see old style wrought iron stands where only the sides are supported, same difference. You could still use some heavy pink foam, and cover up with trim.

See the big gap between the 2x4 and the plywood? Getting all four corners to touch was easy but I had to shim both corners on that side to make it work...

[Nanofreak79]

Yes the middle is not a big deal. I've used liquid nails before. You run a big bead, even between your shims if needed. Make it so the top is glued down, but gives you room to adjust the top. It dries rock hard and doesn't flex.

 

The shims will cause a pressure point if left as is.....not good.

[HM3105]

Yes the middle is not a big deal. I've used liquid nails before. You run a big bead, even between your shims if needed. Make it so the top is glued down, but gives you room to adjust the top. It dries rock hard and doesn't flex.

 

The shims will cause a pressure point if left as is.....not good.

 

Ok, and I am sorry for being dense, do I have two options now?

 

1. shim the plywood up so that all four corners are touching and fill the space with liquid nail. Let dry and remove the shims and fill that space with more liquid nail.

 

2. rebuild the frame.

 

I assume option 2 is the best? Sorry for being a PITB just trying to make sure I am following..

[seabass]

I would remove the plywood top and use a block plane to even up the top edge (then replace the plywood top). If the stand was built strong, why waste time and materials redoing it?

[Nanofreak79]

I would remove the plywood top and use a block plane to even up the top edge (then replace the plywood top). If the stand was built strong, why waste time and materials redoing it?

 

How do know it's not the frame that's messed up. Anyway, OP, do what sea bass says. I guess the wood could be warped or bowed, block planing won't fix all your issues, sorry. Good luck, I hope it all works out for you.

[kriskristofferzen]

I've used 3/4 inch ply top screwed into frame then another plywood of that same size and shim between them fir irregularities between tank and plywood top. Both tanks were rimmed tanks and fit snug around all edges afterward. I've run into same problem and needed to shim under stand as well related to flooring as well. I don't think you need to redo stand as mentioned above

[Bill_68]

Have you considered using a Piece of MDF Particle Board? 3/4" thick. Take some mastic or subfloor adhesive in a can, and use a disposable trowel with 1/4" notches in it and use it to smooth the glue smoothly. Set the tank on the stand and fill with water so that the pressure keeps the MDF flat until it is nice and set. When dry, paint really well with epoxy based paint, or cover with something like formica to keep the water out of your MDF. Should work nice and fine. Since MDF does not have grain, it will be nice and flat.

[Bill_68]

I'm fond of tile. You could tile the thing too. That would cover a multitude of sins as long as it is stable. I'm going to be making a stand as soon as my stone is ready. I stopped by a countertop place and one of the guys sold me a granite slab remnant for $200. It will be killer. 40" x 40" 1" thick with polished square edges. So, really nice stone for $18.00 sf. is really good. I think going rate is 35-40 sf.

 

On the cheap, you could use some 12x12 inch slate and seal it well.

[seabass]

You could tile the thing too.

I'm not sure if 1/2" plywood is a study enough base for tile by itself. Although the weight of the tank would be supported by the stand itself, so it might work.

 

Have you considered using a Piece of MDF Particle Board? 3/4" thick. Take some mastic or subfloor adhesive in a can, and use a disposable trowel with 1/4" notches in it and use it to smooth the glue smoothly. Set the tank on the stand and fill with water so that the pressure keeps the MDF flat until it is nice and set. When dry, paint really well with epoxy based paint, or cover with something like formica to keep the water out of your MDF. Should work nice and fine. Since MDF does not have grain, it will be nice and flat.

That's a good idea. Only I wouldn't fill the tank all the way up. The tank will likely want to flex when full (gluing the MDF down flat instead of truing it up). I might choose something flat (maybe a door) and put something heavy on where the corners of the stand are (like five gallon buckets with some sand or water in them).

[HM3105]

I'm not sure if 1/2" plywood is a study enough base for tile by itself. Although the weight of the tank would be supported by the stand itself, so it might work.

 

That's a good idea. Only I wouldn't fill the tank all the way up. The tank will likely want to flex when full (gluing the MDF down flat instead of truing it up). I might choose something flat (maybe a door) and put something heavy on where the corners of the stand are (like five gallon buckets with some sand or water in them).

 

 

Have you considered using a Piece of MDF Particle Board? 3/4" thick. Take some mastic or subfloor adhesive in a can, and use a disposable trowel with 1/4" notches in it and use it to smooth the glue smoothly. Set the tank on the stand and fill with water so that the pressure keeps the MDF flat until it is nice and set. When dry, paint really well with epoxy based paint, or cover with something like formica to keep the water out of your MDF. Should work nice and fine. Since MDF does not have grain, it will be nice and flat.

 

Thank you for the idea, I will look into the MDF idea and/or liquid nails.

 

I'm still wondering if Nano's point is right in that the entire thing may just be "messed up" and all I am doing is treating the symptom and I'm not entirely sure how to tell. The question I really need answered is how do I tell whether the stand will support the tank? Does the rim need to be touching the plywood all the way around or just the corners and small gaps (less than a credit card width) are acceptable on the edges (but not the corners).

[Nanofreak79]

Example of tank sitting only on the edges! This is a 120 gallon stand, that is personally have used. Just don't take advice on using band aids, if there is a problem with the stand being true.

 

Also notice not everything needs 2x4's to be strong, most people way overbuild things, further complicating issues.

 

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[Mr. Microscope]

I believe the standard for any piece of furniture is that it has to stand up to a sudden jerk of 300lbs to any side (like if a 300lb person fell against it, would it collapse). That being said, you probably want at least that with any aquarium stand.

[gulfsurfer101]

Any 300 pound fat### slamming into my tank is gonna get dealt with like a true G! I don't play that b*llsh*t! The stand above looks like what I'm using for my 75g tank with no issues. Honestly, it's best to buy one professionally built, before dropping cash on a hunk of wood that may later be the cause of your tanks failure. It's a small price to pay for security, and besides I can carry my 48" long stand one handed. Not so much with 2x4's.

[Steensj2004]

Any 300 pound fat### slamming into my tank is gonna get dealt with like a true G! I don't play that b*llsh*t! The stand above looks like what I'm using for my 75g tank with no issues. Honestly, it's best to buy one professionally built, before dropping cash on a hunk of wood that may later be the cause of your tanks failure. It's a small price to pay for security, and besides I can carry my 48" long stand one handed. Not so much with 2x4's.

+1

 

Why risk anything when it comes to this, that's my motto! We spend way to much time, money, blood,sweat,and tears into our tanks. Heck, most tanks end up being in the thousands with everything, why skimp on a 200.00, well built stand to risk coming home to a ruined floor and tank? People say 2x4's are overkill, I say it is security. I like to KNOW that if something fails, it won't be the stand!

[HM3105]

Yeah. I could think of plenty of reasons to redo it. I wasnt super worried about it structurally just mostly that one corner. So I've learned from my mistakes and now I'll do it right.