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RO/DI Unit to buy or not to buy?


nano-cali

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I have a 40 breeder am seting up so in the small town i live in all i can get is glacier machine water which is what i have been using its worked ok i guess dont have a tds meter, but its getting pretty annoying to carry 5 gallon jugs up to my second floor apartment.

 

I do about 5 gallon water change a week about!!! Top off about 3 or 4 gallons a week. and it costs 1.75 for every 5 gals. Is it worth buying a rodi unit, was looking at the brs 4 stage plus 75 gpd. Should i go for it or is it not worth it for that amount of water? Is that unit good or do you guys recommend another one?

 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-plus-ro-di-system-75gpd.html

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That is the exact ro/di unit I use, and is the second one I have owned over the years. They are excellent units for an excellent price, and wil produce more than enough water for your needs.

 

My guess is the water you are getting isn't 0 TDS. The most important thing in reefkeeping is 0 TDS water IMO.

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One more question maybe some one here knows is it possible to say get water after the Ro and before the Di for drinking since apartment i live in i can really install the whole drinking water system, and i hear its not good to drink RO/DI only RO would it be possible?

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I use an Air Water Ice Typhoon 3, it does have an RO valve in the system for drinking water. Your water consumption per your numbers would cost you $468 per year. The Air Water Ice Typhoon 3 is $190. So yes it is worth it. Better water quality, no jugs up the stairs, less than half the price the first year. Cartridge replacements are $40 for a set. You can less expensive systems as well, my tap water has a TDS of 202 so I went with a mid level system.

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Damn that makes it sound like an easy choice and that doesnt even include the drinking water i have to buy every week. Well i think i have decided i do need to buy one now which one to buy... i did look at the typhoon 3 but how do you compare these units what do you compare.

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Some people have a favorite brand. Air Water Ice is a sponsor and one of the first companies I heard of in the RODI market. I had questions that they quickly answered, even though it took me almost a year to finally buy the system. I like the fact that they use a steel one piece bracket to mount the canisters to. Their website has all kinds of information, instructions and diagrams that put my mind at ease when I was researching. They shipped my unit right away, it arrived quickly and was packed very well. Well enough that even brown couldn't damage it (at least in my case). The instructions are thorough and I was able to install it with ease. Currently my 75 GPD membrane knocks my 200+ TDS down to low single digits before it even gets to my DI section so that will last longer. I like the fact that the housings are clear so I can see when the filters are getting dirty.

 

While my water needs aren't much more than yours and could be satisfied with a 50 GPD "mini" style system, the replacement filters cost nearly as much but are half the size. There are lot's of players out there, BRS, Buckeye and SpectraPure come to mind and all of them will do a good job for you. I have had nothing but success with my Air Water Ice Typhoon and would purchase from them again if I needed another system. Avoid the API Tap Water Filter, I got one as a gift and it is strictly a DI resin cartridge, I burned through it making 10 gallons of water.

 

Air Water Ice is a sponsor here and offers various coupon codes that can be applied to your purchase, usually 10% off and a free TDS meter, check the Sponsors forum for the current offer.

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I use an Air Water Ice Typhoon 3, it does have an RO valve in the system for drinking water. Your water consumption per your numbers would cost you $468 per year.

 

I think your math is off :) . 10 gallons => $3.50 per week, comes to $182/year.

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Damn that makes it sound like an easy choice and that doesnt even include the drinking water i have to buy every week. Well i think i have decided i do need to buy one now which one to buy... i did look at the typhoon 3 but how do you compare these units what do you compare.

It can be hard when you don't own something to figure out what you want/need! I went through the same thing. I pestered my local reef club a bit for guidance before I purchased mine too. All I could compare was perceived quality, features and reputation.

 

If you want drinking water, look for a unit with a RO port/valve. I added a dual inline TDS meter to both monitor my quality and as a guide for when my filters become less effective. I chose the Typhoon 3 because it has the auto shut off valve included/installed. This will shut off the incoming water when pressure rises on the filtered water output. If a float switch closes or you turn off the output valve the ASOV will stop the water flow through the unit. The 3 model also has the RO port already installed.

 

I think your math is off :) . 10 gallons => $3.50 per week, comes to $182/year.

You are correct sir! I read it as $1.75/gallon. Even the OP missed this one. But I still say that roughly one years water purchase cost will cover a system that will last for years. The payoff's a bit longer, true, but still a good investment.

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You sold me sir!! :D haha even though your math was off its still correct because i spend about $10 every week on jugs of water for drinking and for my tank. So its $480 a year more or less. I was reading over the Typhoon 3 and i really liked all the features, what sold me was the drinking water valve since that would completely eliminate my trips to buying water and having to carry jugs up stairs so ill probably be ordering one over the weekend!!!



So looking at the filter it says to choose a valve and either a 100 or 75 membrane? Whats the difference other than the gpd.

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The Typhoon 3 is a 5 stage with a vertical clear DI housing, RO only drinking water is available via a valve only. You would need to supply a container to hold filtered water in. The DI cartridge is a refillable unit, you can buy the resin in 5lb bags and refill the cartridge 4 times.

 

The Dual Home Reef is a 6 stage with a horizontal white DI housing. The extra stage is for drinking water taste it appears. The only thing I don't care for is the white DI housing, the resin is color changing so you can see when it is time to replace it, but you can't see it. This DI cartridge is also not refillable. When I got my RODI we had just recently redone our kitchen and my wife was not going to let me drill the new counter top for the faucet in this kit. It is also a 50 GPD (gallons per day) membrane, so it is slower in water production than the Typhoon. If you will ever notice the difference, I have no idea.

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To answer your question, yes you can set it up to make RO water and RODI water. You just need to add a T valve to shunt the water before it gets to the DI stage and another valve to shut of the DI part then open/close accordingly.

 

Some pics in this thread:

 

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/equipment/82383-t-valve-before-di-drinking-water-examples-please-2.html'>http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/equipment/82383-t-valve-before-di-drinking-water-examples-please-2.html

 

Thanks that really gave me a clear image of whats going on

 

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The Typhoon 3 is a 5 stage with a vertical clear DI housing, RO only drinking water is available via a valve only. You would need to supply a container to hold filtered water in.

 

The Dual Home Reef is a 6 stage with a horizontal white DI housing. The extra stage is for drinking water taste it appears. The only thing I don't care for is the white DI housing, the resin is color changing so You can see when it is time to replace it, but you can't see it. When I got my RODI we had just recently redone our kitchen and my wife was not going to let me drill the new counter top for the faucet in this kit. It is also a 50 GPD (gallons per day) membrane, so it is slower in water production than the Typhoon. If you will ever notice the difference, I have no idea.

 

It sounds good but either way I dont think I can do the whole faucet installation in my apartment, I was really just thinking of seting it up in the laundry room since I can use the water coming in and the drain pipe going out

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AZDesertRat

No other vendor comes close to Spectrapure.

At $130 you can't go wrong for a real reef quality 90 GPD system which includes a specially treated and batch tested high rejection rate RO membrane, 1 micron near absolute sediment and carbon block filters, custom blended fresh DI resin, an inline pressure gauge and a capillary tube flow restrictor. You will not find most of that anywhere else at any price. www.spectrapure.com

 

 

Others I suggest liooking at are www.buckeyehydro.com and www.purelyh2o.com . Both offer excellent systems at competitve pricing with the proper sediment and carbon block filters and more for your $$ than others previously mentioned.

 

I personally owned the Typhoon III and sold it after 18 months since it was not doing what it should have even after a membrane replacement. I bought a Spectrapure MaxCap and immediately my DI life went from a documented 150 gallons to 830 gallons on the first DI replacement and its been over 1000 gallons ever since. I even did the membrane replacement on the Typhoon and had Watts Premier test it for me and still 150 gallons was it. No comparison.

 

Any RO/DI can be used for drinking water too with a $59 drinking water kit from PurelyH2o. If you don't need the pressure tank and faucet you can even add a tee and ball valve between the RO and the DI for RO only drinking water plus you now have a place to flush TDS creep away and to test your RO only TDS with your handheld TDS meter. Maybe $10 in parts and 5 minutes time?

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No other vendor comes close to Spectrapure.

At $130 you can't go wrong for a real reef quality 90 GPD system which includes a specially treated and batch tested high rejection rate RO membrane, 1 micron near absolute sediment and carbon block filters, custom blended fresh DI resin, an inline pressure gauge and a capillary tube flow restrictor. You will not find most of that anywhere else at any price. www.spectrapure.com

 

 

Others I suggest liooking at are www.buckeyehydro.com and www.purelyh2o.com . Both offer excellent systems at competitve pricing with the proper sediment and carbon block filters and more for your $$ than others previously mentioned.

 

I personally owned the Typhoon III and sold it after 18 months since it was not doing what it should have even after a membrane replacement. I bought a Spectrapure MaxCap and immediately my DI life went from a documented 150 gallons to 830 gallons on the first DI replacement and its been over 1000 gallons ever since. I even did the membrane replacement on the Typhoon and had Watts Premier test it for me and still 150 gallons was it. No comparison.

 

Any RO/DI can be used for drinking water too with a $59 drinking water kit from PurelyH2o. If you don't need the pressure tank and faucet you can even add a tee and ball valve between the RO and the DI for RO only drinking water plus you now have a place to flush TDS creep away and to test your RO only TDS with your handheld TDS meter. Maybe $10 in parts and 5 minutes time?

I from reading around in the forum i hear your "the" man when it comes to rodi units B) ... anyways i liked the typhoon 3 because it had all i needed and the price with shipping and all was $207 with NR coupon, but now what would you recommend that is in that same price range? I dont mind doing a little diy to split the ro and di water actually Tamberav gave me a nice link with pictures and all.

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AZDesertRat

The Spectrapure MPDI or CSPDI will beat the Typhoon III any day of the week and the MaxCap is a whole other league. The 75 GPD Premium from www.buckeyehydro.com is also superior as is the Optima Automated from www.purelyh2o.com . AWi uses very coarse sediment filters which makes the carbon act as a secondary sediment filter which plugs its pores and renders it useless thus they add a second carbon. Note none of those I mentioned use two carbons and all use no larger than a 1 micron sediment filter so it actually protects the carbon block which is its sole purpose.

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Do i need an ASOV or not really required, i dont think i will be producing water into any container larger than a 5 gal bucket.

724_thumb.png Premium RODI System RODI ​Capac​ity: 75 Ga​llons​ per ​Day ASOV ​Kit: None Flush​ Valv​e: Manua​l DI By​pass: Add D​I Byp​ass TDS M​eter: TDS3 ​Handh​eld Feedw​ater ​Suppl​y Fit​ting: Hose ​Bib A​dapte​r, Br​ass 1​/4" Change $188.22 $188.22

 

 

CSPDI-90-100x100.pngsale_icon.png
$199.99 $189.99
SAVE 5%

OVERVIEW: SpectraPure® 90gpd CSPDI™ 4-Stage RO/DI System incorporates a high-silicate removal

 

 

MPDI-90-100x100.png
$189.99
OVERVIEW: MaxPure™MPDI 90-GPD 4-Stage RO/DI System w/ std 90gpd RO membrane, 1um pre-filters, co..
stars-0.png
Which of these would be my best option?
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For my needs am pretty sure i should go with the buckeye comes out to $190 shipped w/o the ASOV and the spectrapure $205.

 

Now a question on controllers, I can afford to get right now a Apex Jr. and maybe later add ph probe and break out box, or reefkeeper lite plus and not have to add anything, like i said its probably going to be used for basic controlling nothing fancy. I do like the net included with the apex, so what would be the best choice even if the apex jr costs a little more in the long run???? :unsure:

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AZDesertRat

You can get the Spectrapure MPDI in a refurbished version for $130. It is the same quality unit with all new filters except a housing or bracket may have a scuff or scratch on it so it cannot be sold as new. Add a ASOV and float valve if you want to have a simple automated system and a handheld TDS meter and you are in business.The only difference between the MPDI and CSPDI are 0.5 micron sediment and carbon versus 1.0 micron versions, both are near absolute so the best you can buy. You can always switch to the 0.5 replacements at the 6 month filter change.

 

I own the Reefkeeper Lite level 3 which included two PC-4 modules and a SL-1 modulewith pH probe then added a MLC moonlight module and 3 blue LED moonlights which I run n the lunar cycle, kind of neat to me. Been using it for about 4 years now and still going strong. I have no experience with the Apex but at the time I felt the RKL was easier to program and setup out of the box.

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bpounds1991

You could always go with a Mighty Mite! I owned one on my 75 gallon 5 years ago and sure enough they're still selling these bad boys. It's a 3 stage 50 gpd RO/DI, although I was able to pull almost 4 gallons an hour with it (TDS of Greenville's water supply is some of the best in the world at only 20 ppm). Sells for 110$ and is an excellent small unit.

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AZDesertRat

The portable units end up costing much more per gallon than a full size system. The filters are smaller so do not last as long, cost more to replace, are harder to find and do not come in the .5 or 1 micron size ranges so do not protect as well. this means the RO membrane does not last as long so drives cost of ownership up. The DI is also a smaller throw away and who knows how old once you get it so the life is already shortened from the 6 month shelf life to begin with if stored properly in a cool dark place and in a vacuum sealed bag. No comparison no matter what brand portable.

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Yeah i was looking at those portable units and decided not to itss only a couple $$ to step it up and i thought it really wasnt worth it.

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I just purchased the Spectrapure refurbished model and I swear it's brand new. Even has a sticker that it was manufactured on 2/20/14. Not a scratch or anything and perfect 0 tads water coming out!! Can beat $129 for their quality!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks everyone for all the help, tips, and all i ended up getting the Buckeye Hydro Premium 75gpd

 

eg37gm.jpg

 

The First canister had a bad seal or oring but they sent me a new one right away.

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Good move, I have a 50gpd RO/DI here (UK), much cheaper than going to get it, my nearest reputable dealer is about 8 mile away, doesn't sound much, ok, probably 3 weekly visits, so 16 mile a time, 17 times a year = 272 miles, so the cost of the water PLUS fuel to get it (and i'm not driving for now, head injury) soon adds up, i'd rather own the unit itself than the hassles of getting it tbh.

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