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API Calcium test accurate?


ragtimewilly

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I started using API's calcium test kit several months back, and was told by a guy I trust that it's one of their only decent test kits. Recently though I've become skeptical, regardless of how many water changes I do I can't bring my calcium above 380 according to the API test. It also seems like when I take the lid off the vial to add a drop of solution 2 a little bit of water is actually spilled so I wonder how accurate it could really be or if there is a better way to use the test than what the directions recommend. I'm not too worried about it, more curious than anything I don't have many stony corals and none seem to be suffering. I am also using salinity salt, and maybe this mix accounts for a lower calcium level?

 

Salinity- 1.026

KH- 11

Calcium- 380

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I distrust any API test kits. I'm not familiar with their calcium test kit. Is it a titration type of test?

 

I've been using the Red Sea Pro kits and the results compare to other known good test kits.

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I get good tests with it. Which salt are you using? Some cheaper salts meant for Fowlr tanks may only have 380ppm. Test your fresh water. To add Ca you can dose two part or kalk.

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I started using API's calcium test kit several months back, and was told by a guy I trust that it's one of their only decent test kits. Recently though I've become skeptical, regardless of how many water changes I do I can't bring my calcium above 380 according to the API test. It also seems like when I take the lid off the vial to add a drop of solution 2 a little bit of water is actually spilled so I wonder how accurate it could really be or if there is a better way to use the test than what the directions recommend. I'm not too worried about it, more curious than anything I don't have many stony corals and none seem to be suffering. I am also using salinity salt, and maybe this mix accounts for a lower calcium level?

 

Salinity- 1.026

KH- 11

Calcium- 380

 

 

U used the api reef master kit for 3 months, i didnt like the phosphate tests so after doing a bunch of research i came to the conslusion to try out the Hanna Checkers, wow what a difference with phosphorus & Ca.mi would recommend the Ca kit before dosing with anything.

 

I did a lot of test and my results are on the link below, long thread but you will see it.

 

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/340007-nitrate-ph-question/?p=4648756

 

 

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It's accurate enough IMO and I use it a lot because it's easily available locally and simpler to use. I've compared the results twice with a Red Sea Pro calcium test and each time was within 20, which is close enough for me.

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It's accurate enough IMO and I use it a lot because it's easily available locally and simpler to use. I've compared the results twice with a Red Sea Pro calcium test and each time was within 20, which is close enough for me.

 

Api consitantly gave me low feadings on Alk & Ca, some might even try dosing to raise the levels. The Hanna checker shows me with just over 500 ppm & API showed me i was between 380-400. I did find the alk close but api showed me no detectable phosephates when i actually had over.1ppm. Again, if you are thinking of dosing based on inaccurate test results you would cause more harm than good!

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ragtimewilly

Thanks, I have been contemplating dosing, but I will likely wait until I get more sps. For now most of my corals seem to be fine, I've just read about quicker growth rates with higher calcium.

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I agree with Mark, it might not be exact, but it's usable. Disclaimer, I haven't used API's calcium test kit in quite a number of years. And comparing it to a Hanna Calcium Checker (which gets mixed reviews), might not be the best reference.

 

I'm very vocal about not using API's phosphate test kit; not because it's inaccurate, but because it's not a low range test (goes up in increments of 0.25 ppm). Since the target is 0.03 ppm, a high range kit is pointless for reef keeping. I find that most of their other kits alright, although I still tend to buy other brands.

 

Why might it not matter that much if their calcium kit is consistently off by as much as 20 ppm? Because we test to calculate consumption rates. We test our newly mixed saltwater as a baseline, and dose to maintain this level. If we want higher calcium levels, we switch salt mixes instead of trying to elevate the levels of a mix that has low levels.

 

Of course, it doesn't hurt to compare the test results against another brand considered relatively accurate (like Salifert).

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I agree with Mark, it might not be exact, but it's usable. Disclaimer, I haven't used API's calcium test kit in quite a number of years. And comparing it to a Hanna Calcium Checker (which gets mixed reviews), might not be the best reference.

I'm very vocal about not using API's phosphate test kit; not because it's inaccurate, but because it's not a low range test (goes up in increments of 0.25 ppm). Since the target is 0.03 ppm, a high range kit is pointless for reef keeping. I find that most of their other kits alright, although I still tend to buy other brands.

Why might it not matter that much if their calcium kit is consistently off by as much as 20 ppm? Because we test to calculate consumption rates. We test our newly mixed saltwater as a baseline, and dose to maintain this level. If we want higher calcium levels, we switch salt mixes instead of trying to elevate the levels of a mix that has low levels.Of course, it doesn't hurt to compare the test results against another brand considered relatively accurate (like Salifert).

 

Its funny you say that about API & phosphates, that is how i got into the research & trying the Hanna, i am using the Low range phosphorus which measures in ppb th convert to phosphates in ppm.

 

My respone on API in terms of Ca was from what just happened to my last mon on a new build. My API showed me im @ 380 and since ut was going to be another reef i dosed it up to 440. Of course when i got my Hanna it was @ 535, thats a diff of 95ppm!

 

I agree that api is a good way to look @ consumption in a tank for Ca & Alk but if your start point is wrong how do you know where you are going let alone how your getting there.

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Its funny you say that about API & phosphates, that is how i got into the research & trying the Hanna, i am using the Low range phosphorus which measures in ppb th convert to phosphates in ppm.

I'm also using Hanna's ULR Phosphorus Checker.

 

I agree that api is a good way to look @ consumption in a tank for Ca & Alk but if your start point is wrong how do you know where you are going let alone how your getting there.

I test a batch of saltwater before a water change to use as a baseline. If calcium tests at 400ppm, then that becomes my target value. I see the goal of dosing is to maintain stability (not to elevate levels). Like I said, if the levels of your mix are lower than you want, switch brands of salt mix, instead of trying to elevate the level via dosing. It tends to cheaper, easier, and helps with stability (as water changes are already at your target levels).

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Just going to share my experience between the Hanna Ca and API Ca. My buddy who got me into reefing has the Hanna, and I had the API. He tested my water with the Hanna, and it was reading off the charts (>600ppm), which I knew for a fact wasn't right since my salt claims about 450, and I hadn't been dosing anything. He triple checked the measurement, and each time it came up as >600. My API kit was putting it between 420 and 440, which was reasonable since I hadn't changed water in over a week. We then compared the kits a fresh batch of salt water, and once again his was reading >600, and the API placed it around 440 again.

 

Of course this is purely anecdotal, and others have had great success with the Hanna checkers, but it does just show that you definitely need to make sure they're accurate and not just taking them as being right. Of course you should be doing this with any test, but I know some don't for the expensive digital tests.

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Just going to share my experience between the Hanna Ca and API Ca. My buddy who got me into reefing has the Hanna, and I had the API. He tested my water with the Hanna, and it was reading off the charts (>600ppm), which I knew for a fact wasn't right since my salt claims about 450, and I hadn't been dosing anything. He triple checked the measurement, and each time it came up as >600. My API kit was putting it between 420 and 440, which was reasonable since I hadn't changed water in over a week. We then compared the kits a fresh batch of salt water, and once again his was reading >600, and the API placed it around 440 again. Of course this is purely anecdotal, and others have had great success with the Hanna checkers, but it does just show that you definitely need to make sure they're accurate and not just taking them as being right. Of course you should be doing this with any test, but I know some don't for the expensive digital tests.
And i can see how that would happen with the hanna, what i don't like about them is the syringe & tips they use, leaves a lot of open interpretation on how to use the amount of reagents, especially the white one with the tip causing an air bubble. Interesting results that you got.

 

I'm also using Hanna's ULR Phosphorus Checker. I test a batch of saltwater before a water change to use as a baseline. If calcium tests at 400ppm, then that becomes my target value. I see the goal of dosing is to maintain stability (not to elevate levels). Like I said, if the levels of your mix are lower than you want, switch brands of salt mix, instead of trying to elevate the level via dosing. It tends to cheaper, easier, and helps with stability (as water changes are already at your target levels).
I like your methodology, nothing wrong with that. I have been quite nit-picky on my testing as both of my reef tanks are quite new, once well established i will a lot less testing and like you just keep an eye on consumption. Good post!
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