No Ca & Kh testing - possible? Zoas & Mushrooms only

[potatocouch]

In a 5g tank, can I get away with not testing Calcium and Alkalinity (for now) IF the tank will only be housing Zoas, Mushrooms & a Turbo Snail?

I heard Zoas & Mushrooms only requires Iodine; Alkalinity & Calcium is not that crucial element for them.

Turbo Snail - will require Calcium for the construction of its shell but I maybe able to get away with the Calcium level that come in Red Sea Salt.

For both answer (either yes or no), can you please kindly explain the reason why?

[Arkayology]

Yes.

[RC1313]

Yes you can get away with it. From my understanding, ( I don't dose or test Ca or Alk) the reason people test is so they can dose to a certain level. This is required in tanks with lots of corals like SPS that use up a lot of calcium in building their skeletons. TBH I have no idea what Alk is for, IIRC they're connected somehow. Anyway, my .02

[potatocouch]

RC1313 how big is/was your tank? What were you keeping?

[RC1313]

My tank is linked in my sig. ATM LPS and soft corals along with a BTA and four rock flower anemones. Also 2 shrimp + fish. I do have some tentative plans for SPS along with research needed badly, but none in the tank right now.

[potatocouch]

What soft corals you have? Hammers ? Brain Corals?

 

If so, did you get away with not testing Ca & Kh for all these time?

 

Just to gauge what is the chance of not testing Ca & Kh hence not dosing them , do to soft corals such as Hammers & Brain Corals.

[RC1313]

What soft corals you have? Hammers ? Brain Corals?

 

If so, did you get away with not testing Ca & Kh for all these time?

 

Just to gauge what is the chance of not testing Ca & Kh hence not dosing them , do to soft corals such as Hammers & Brain Corals.

Hammers and Brain Corals are large polyped stony corals, whereas soft corals include things like xenia, star polyps, mushroom corals, etc. Yes I have never tested for Calcum or Alkalinity. Not sure what you are asking in the last question

[potatocouch]

Not sure what you are asking in the last question

that's cool, man. I don't even understand what I wrote in my last sentence

 

the reason why i asked these questions is because I don't intend to purchase Ca, Kh & Mg test kits if it is not that crucial.

 

understand that it is always better to test but due to budget constraint, I am limited on my resources.

 

in saying that, i am still testing the following on a weekly basis:

Salinity

Temperature

Ph

Ammonia

Nitrite

Nitrate

and potentially Phosphate too because I got it for free.

and plus 50% WC.

[RC1313]

I haven't tested any of those since the cycle besides salinity and Mg when I had bryopsis.

[frankdontsurf]

I'm a noob.. I have a 10 gallon. It has been doing well in the corals dept but not great. My LFS all sell NSW from the same source, the Ca marks at 350-380. So I decided to add 4 drops Brightwell Ca every week when I do my water change (5 gallons). It keeps my Ca at around 480-450 for 3-4 days, I add a drop 3 days before the water change this keeps it "level" (bouncing in the low to mid 400's). I also add a drop of Kents Iodide (not Lugols) every morning. These two add ins have made a world of difference in my 10 gallon (every monday I change 5 gallons of water). I did test this out for a few weeks before I quit testing. My train of thought is as long as nothing drastic changes with my source of water or amount of drops I use I shouldn't have to worry. Consistent water changes does work, but keeping Ca Mg and your Iodine at higher levels brings out the live stocks vigor I dont think you need to test but you will perform a more accurate test than your LFS will in my experience.

[thesmallerthebetter]

i dont even test ca and kh on my sps tanks

 

but thats not reccomended