Solana 34G (ZEOvit)

[exactlyobp]

 

First, you need to fix the reactor situation, find a mesh bag to hold the small stones in, take out the inner basket and methodically remove all the small stones keeping them in tank water while doing this. Place the small stones in the mesh bag and place it on top of the other stones. This will keep them off the bottom and away from the holes. Simple fix

Found an old unused net, made a bag to hold the small clogging stones as directed! Thanks for the tip, Christine I can shake the inner part MUCH easier, i can already see the water running between the rocks.

 

 

 

Next, find some of those wide rubber bands, the ones they use in the grocery stores to keep vegetables together, or any rubber bands that are wide and strong. What you want to do is place them around the top of the inner basket, you may need two or three on top of each other. The goal is the reduce the space between the inner and outer basket so flow is directed through the holes on the bottom of the inner basket. This is a temporary fix and is not 100% as some water will still move past the rubber bands but it is much better than none

I put one piece of rubber band as directed and the inner basket is TIGHT (not shown in the pic above). Definitely water is passing thru, not going around it for sure.

 

You should re-check the flow through the stones now, 35-40 GPH is you goal.

Ill see what i can do.

 

I have started the special dosage menu. I have a good feeling about this!

 

Ill keep you guys posted. :D

[NanoTopia]

Found an old unused net, made a bag to hold the small clogging stones as directed! Thanks for the tip, Christine I can shake the inner part MUCH easier, i can already see the water running between the rocks.

 

 

I put one piece of rubber band as directed and the inner basket is TIGHT (not shown in the pic above). Definitely water is passing thru, not going around it for sure.

 

Ill see what i can do.

 

I have started the special dosage menu. I have a good feeling about this!

 

Ill keep you guys posted. :D

 

 

Okay, this is great, good job!

 

So to check the flow through the reactor, first turn off your ATO, then pull off the fitting where the effluent comes out, catch the water in a measured container for 30 seconds, make note of the exact amount of water you caught, then multiply that amount by 120. This will give you your GPH. I say go for 40 GPH because some flow may be lost between the two chambers. It's not hard to do and really only takes a couple of minutes to check and adjust if necessary.

 

I am following this thread so I will check up on it daily

[exactlyobp]

Okay, this is great, good job!

 

So to check the flow through the reactor, first turn off your ATO, then pull off the fitting where the effluent comes out, catch the water in a measured container for 30 seconds, make note of the exact amount of water you caught, then multiply that amount by 120. This will give you your GPH. I say go for 40 GPH because some flow may be lost between the two chambers. It's not hard to do and really only takes a couple of minutes to check and adjust if necessary.

 

I am following this thread so I will check up on it daily

Thanks! and I measured the flow as directed yesterday, its at 40gph now. It was running less before, so with the increased flow and all that is gonna turn thing thing around hopefully

 

I shook the inner basket vigorously for 60 sec (up and down, spin around etc), the tank got cloudy. It didn't take long to clear up, but i assume this is how i should've been doing?

[NanoTopia]

Thanks! and I measured the flow as directed yesterday, its at 40gph now. It was running less before, so with the increased flow and all that is gonna turn thing thing around hopefully

 

I shook the inner basket vigorously for 60 sec (up and down, spin around etc), the tank got cloudy. It didn't take long to clear up, but i assume this is how i should've been doing?

Yup, this is what happens.

[ingtar_shinowa]

Shin you looking at those riptide pumps by maxspec?

[exactlyobp]

^ Yes I've read about the Riptides. It looks cool.

 

Its been 7 days since the adjustment.

 

The RP got paler. I lowered the zeo reactor's flow to like 32gph. I started running the skimmer partially, total of 12 hours a day.

 

I don't have AAHC so I have been dosing Xtra Sp 1ml everyday. Acropower here and there as well. ZS3 0.05mI twice a day, but the water got cloudy, so i stopped for 2 days and it got clear. I don't think its giving enough nutrients/food so I upped the CV a bit.

 

Corals are showing more PE including the RP tho!. I got new fish (pair of flame wrasses) today, See what happens?

 

 

Ok as i mentioned above, heres some pics of the new fish.

 

Flame wrasse pair:

 

 

 

[RollaJase]

They are a stunning pair of fish.

[ingtar_shinowa]

How do you like the Cyanno clean? I could drop you off my bottle in a couple weeks if you like it.Also how are the wrasse?

[farkwar]

Found an old unused net, made a bag to hold the small clogging stones as directed! Thanks for the tip, Christine I can shake the inner part MUCH easier, i can already see the water running between the rocks. https://flic.kr/p/ocbqsj][/url] I put one piece of rubber band as directed and the inner basket is TIGHT (not shown in the pic above). Definitely water is passing thru, not going around it for sure. Ill see what i can do. I have started the special dosage menu. I have a good feeling about this! Ill keep you guys posted. :D

You should have an equal mix of the three different sized zeolites. Looks like only the large size.If it works well I might try that. The small ones are a mess to deal with. Nm, I see what you did. I tried the mesh screen trick, didnt work. Still a bunch make it out.

 

How do you like the Cyanno clean? I could drop you off my bottle in a couple weeks if you like it.Also how are the wrasse?

I used a whole 10ml bottle.Not a single change in cyano production while using CC. Cutting zeofood and zeostart cut cyano a LOT.I have just a little of the red floating kind still, just tweeze that out.

[exactlyobp]

They are a stunning pair of fish.

Thanks! They are doing great so far. No issue with other fish, so cute to see their eyes when they are looking around

 

How do you like the Cyanno clean? I could drop you off my bottle in a couple weeks if you like it.Also how are the wrasse?

Its fine, I guess. Im only using it as preventative measure. I have a lot left. The wrasses are doing great. So pretty and mesmerizing. Best fish i have ever kept.

 

You should have an equal mix of the three different sized zeolites. Looks like only the large size.If it works well I might try that. The small ones are a mess to deal with. Nm, I see what you did. I tried the mesh screen trick, didnt work. Still a bunch make it out.

 

I used a whole 10ml bottle.Not a single change in cyano production while using CC. Cutting zeofood and zeostart cut cyano a LOT.I have just a little of the red floating kind still, just tweeze that out.

Yeah the smaller gravel was way too cloggy, had no idea till I tried what Christine suggested. Sorry to hear that CC didnt work out for you tho.. Im only dosing ZS3 0.06ml everyday.

[exactlyobp]

Ok here is the update. All the corals are pale, especially RP. I got myself a brand new bottle of ZB, followed Christine's dosage recommendation. Basically the tank was way too clean and needed a little boost, bacterial population wise.

 

With the improved flow thru the reactor, boost with amino acids along with CV, the color is coming back. (Even my wife noticed lol.) SG is 1.026 and will try to keep where its at, and the temp as well. The tank temp goes up to 78+ without heater kicking in, but during the night time, it used to get as low as 76F ish. So i adjusted the Apex's temp setting so it won't fluctuate as much, its staying within 1F difference.

 

I see brown film algae from the nutrient in the system.

PO4= 0.12 ppm

Alk= 8.29 dKH

 

Top down Redplanet:

Still pale, but decent PE and encrustation. The color is coming back.

 

Top down Ice Stag and Cali tort:

Decent growth You can see some coralline on the rock as well (finally).

 

Angled FTS:

 

FTS:

 

Side note: RW-8 pump is now controlled via VDM on Apex. I have a few left over parts for the Jebao pump, I might make some more. Most importantly the RP seems to be enjoying the better flow and more random pattern.

[ingtar_shinowa]

looking good bud!

[NanoTopia]

Po4 is really high, but I would not trust that reading, especially since it came from a Hanna checker.

 

Have you checked NO3 lately?

 

 

Is it possible to get dKH down to 7.5?

[Alex B]

I second what Christine says about dkh. When my alk hit 7's everything seemed much happier. My tips got a lot brighter, and the coralline growth got better.

 

Beautiful tank!!

[SouthFlorida_Tron]

Speaking of p04...

 

Should I invest in another p04 Hanna checker to get a better idea than Salifert? Or are they still very inconsistent?

[NanoTopia]

Speaking of p04...

 

Should I invest in another p04 Hanna checker to get a better idea than Salifert? Or are they still very inconsistent?

Hanna checker is not an investment, it is a waste of money IMO. There is no accurate PO4 test kit at a hobby level. You need to spend over $400 before you start getting any reliable low range results with equipment.

[SouthFlorida_Tron]

Hogwash

[Alex B]

Hanna checker is not an investment, it is a waste of money IMO. There is no accurate PO4 test kit at a hobby level. You need to spend over $400 before you start getting any reliable low range results with equipment.

 

I have always been told the same thing. That's the reason I don't even own a phosphate tester. So there is no semi-accurate test kit or tester out there? I generally use my eyes. What signs help you determine when po4 might be a little high?

 

I've noticed in my system gha seems to be the first sign that it's a little high. I adjust feeding a little bit, and it turns white and melts on it's own.

[exactlyobp]

Thanks for the feedback people!

 

Ill see what i can do with the Alk. To be honest, i wasn't expecting it to be that high. I do want it to be around 7.3~ range. I haven been dosing alk for 7 seconds every hour, I set the Apex accordingly. I will keep a close eye.

 

I only use EVERY test result as part of my decision making. Meaning i don't freak out if/when a kit shows out of whack result, use my best judgement.

 

NO3 kit I have is outdated i think (RedSea) tho.. D&S is doing 10% off sale store wide, Ill include the NO3 kit refill.

[RollaJase]

Tank is looking really good, looks like your getting good growth on the SPS also.

 

I am interested to hear what the reasoning behind the lower Alk level is though? I know it closer reflects natural levels but I have always found that around 7dKH my SPS looked miserable, happier between 9-9.5dKH. Had I discovered this prior to purchasing a new big bucket of RS Coral Pro I would have spent the the money on the blue bucket instead.

[NanoTopia]

Lower (NSW) dKH is only important in ULNS. I don't know the exact nutrient level but I would say PO4 below 0.005ppm and NO3 below 3ppm. There are many that do not agree with this but from my past experience, higher than 7.5dKH when nutrients are very low, and corals are pale in colour, the result is STN or RTN.

 

I say when PO4 is not a limiting factor in the calcification of stony corals, alkalinity can be at NSW (6.5-7.5dKH) levels and coral growth will be equivalent to that of the ocean. When PO4 is higher and becomes a limiting factor for calcification, higher alkalinity is beneficial for calcification as the coral finds it more difficult to take it in. Corals are stressed and may not show optimum health but growth will continue. TN issues are more likely.

[AJ_Tsin]

Looks really good! Nice to hear your color is coming back.

[RollaJase]

Lower (NSW) dKH is only important in ULNS. I don't know the exact nutrient level but I would say PO4 below 0.005ppm and NO3 below 3ppm. There are many that do not agree with this but from my past experience, higher than 7.5dKH when nutrients are very low, and corals are pale in colour, the result is STN or RTN.

 

I say when PO4 is not a limiting factor in the calcification of stony corals, alkalinity can be at NSW (6.5-7.5dKH) levels and coral growth will be equivalent to that of the ocean. When PO4 is higher and becomes a limiting factor for calcification, higher alkalinity is beneficial for calcification as the coral finds it more difficult to take it in. Corals are stressed and may not show optimum health but growth will continue. TN issues are more likely.

Thank you for the explanation! I now see why you ZEOheads are always aiming for the lower Alk levels. This hobby really is a balancing act.

[Go Tigers!]

Thanks for the feedback people!

 

Ill see what i can do with the Alk. To be honest, i wasn't expecting it to be that high. I do want it to be around 7.3~ range. I haven been dosing alk for 7 seconds every hour, I set the Apex accordingly. I will keep a close eye.

 

I only use EVERY test result as part of my decision making. Meaning i don't freak out if/when a kit shows out of whack result, use my best judgement.

 

NO3 kit I have is outdated i think (RedSea) tho.. D&S is doing 10% off sale store wide, Ill include the NO3 kit refill.

I never thought to run my alk every hour ..... I run it every five hour for about two min ... Maybe I should do it this way , maybe it will lower my ph swings.