HM's Evil Cluster Build

[betadeltadelta]

Would just like to confirm that I have a 2 cluster layout above my 40B and it is plenty of light. I'm running it a little higher than "a few inches" above the tank. I was running it at about 10" with no color banding. The light spread was perfect. I'm now running it about 20" above the tank for a little to see how I like it, again without optics.

 

 

 

Above pictures are to reference the height of the lights, and the light spread NOT THE COLOR, these pictures are taken with my iphone just for a reference, the coloring looks absolutely nothing like that.

 

Very nice, exactly what I have planned to do, but still stick with 3 clusters because I'm a nervous nelly and don't want to add later when I can do it now. I like the simple enclosure you've made and exactly what I had in mind. Not overstated, or complex, but just enough to minimize the insane leakage far beyond the footprint of the tank on the floor. I.e., not light my living room and kitchen 25 feet away. Good job, I like your fixture alot, and you've proven your point nicely with 2 clusters.

 

The one they have is a preliminary datasheet. If you're looking at the BXRA-40E950-B-03 (which is the newest BXRA3 revision) then the datasheet is here: http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/DS24-Bridgelux-ES-Rectangle-Array-Data-Sheet-2014.01.27.pdf

 

Very, very rarely would you ever find a chip with such high voltage requirements. Bridgelux's wafers are good quality and there are FAR more 'typical' chips than otherwise. I would not worry about it.

 

I think that I would use one more cluster for spread in the middle like BDD is planning, though the extra cyan and violet aren't needed they won't hurt.

 

 

Would help if I went directly to the manufacturer to find the cutsheet, huh? You'd think I'd know that being in consulting... sheesh. But at any rate, the cutsheet still only shows maximum "tests" at 700, not 1000. Or at least not that I saw. The 700 still shows 21.3 volts and 35V at a 1.4A peak, which I'd never reach. Typical @1A looks to be 22.5V and max at 24.5V. 2@1A may still hit or go over 48V and I'm not interested in jacking up my PS to 52V, so I think I'm still going to go with 3-1A LDD's. Thanks for everyones input and I hope OP's cluster turns out good for him. I'll be following along closely.

[jedimasterben]

Would help if I went directly to the manufacturer to find the cutsheet, huh? You'd think I'd know that being in consulting... sheesh. But at any rate, the cutsheet still only shows maximum "tests" at 700, not 1000. Or at least not that I saw. The 700 still shows 21.3 volts and 35V at a 1.4A peak, which I'd never reach. Typical @1A looks to be 22.5V and max at 24.5V. 2@1A may still hit or go over 48V and I'm not interested in jacking up my PS to 52V, so I think I'm still going to go with 3-1A LDD's. Thanks for everyones input and I hope OP's cluster turns out good for him. I'll be following along closely.

The test current for the BXRA is 500mA, and 700mA is the only other that they're tested for the 'lower output' models. The higher wattage chips usually run higher voltages, but none go past ~39v and instead use more LEDs internally run in parallel. The 1.4A peak is maximum pulsed current, the maximum rated is 1A sustained.

 

Just remember that they put out over 2000 lumens at 1A, and it takes a LOT of royal blue to get it to a reasonable color temperature (about a 1:12-14 ratio of lumens of white to milliwatts of royal blue, so 2000 lumens will take 24000-28000mW to reach ~14K, which equates to 4-5x Luxeon M for every BXRA. ).

[betadeltadelta]

The test current for the BXRA is 500mA, and 700mA is the only other that they're tested for the 'lower output' models. The higher wattage chips usually run higher voltages, but none go past ~39v and instead use more LEDs internally run in parallel. The 1.4A peak is maximum pulsed current, the maximum rated is 1A sustained.

 

Just remember that they put out over 2000 lumens at 1A, and it takes a LOT of royal blue to get it to a reasonable color temperature (about a 1:12-14 ratio of lumens of white to milliwatts of royal blue, so 2000 lumens will take 24000-28000mW to reach ~14K, which equates to 4-5x Luxeon M for every BXRA. ).

 

Yeah I know, hence my controller dialed back... but, perhaps it would be better to drop back and punt with 700's or even 500's... hmmm, decisions. 1000's will give headroom that will never be reached, unless I REALLLLLY like white, ha.

[jedimasterben]

Using 1000mA drivers limits your dimming resolution. Say you use the Storm X, 12 bits of sweet, sweet dimming. If you use a 1000mA driver but only want 500mA at the max, you've limited yourself to 2048 possible dimming steps instead of 4096. Each step will only let you dim by 0.25mA. On a 500mA driver, each step will let you dim by 0.125mA. Not that big of a deal IMHO, but you get the picture

[betadeltadelta]

Using 1000mA drivers limits your dimming resolution. Say you use the Storm X, 12 bits of sweet, sweet dimming. If you use a 1000mA driver but only want 500mA at the max, you've limited yourself to 2048 possible dimming steps instead of 4096. Each step will only let you dim by 0.25mA. On a 500mA driver, each step will let you dim by 0.125mA. Not that big of a deal IMHO, but you get the picture

 

Well yes and no. I see your point, but the amps will always be the same dependent on the LDD used since they're constant current. I should have the same number of steps, no? However if i wanted the "equivalent" of driving at 500 using a 1000, then I'd only be working from 0-2048. I think that's what you meant to say, but again, I get your point and makes sense... Although 4096 steps of blinking, to simulate dimming, we cannot register with our eyes, is a lot. I don't think it would be that big of a deal, no. But hey, the beauty of these things is for $7 each you can plug and play to modify.

[jedimasterben]

Well yes and no. I see your point, but the amps will always be the same dependent on the LDD used since they're constant current.

Constant current drivers dim by either reducing the forward current (analog dimming) or pulsing the maximum current in varying lengths of pulses to give the 'appearance' of a specified current (PWM dimming). Voltage is set exactly to what the LEDs require by the driver, and adjusts up or down as necessary as current increases or decreases (as voltage increases/decreases with current, see the particular LEDs' datasheets for their V_i vs V_f rating curve). Voltage is not manipulated as the means to reduce current, it's simply a byproduct.

 

I should have the same number of steps, no? However if i wanted the "equivalent" of driving at 500 using a 1000, then I'd only be working from 0-2048. I think that's what you meant to say, but again, I get your point and makes sense...

Yes, you'd be limited to 2048 steps to get to a maximum of 500mA. If you used a 500mA LDD, you would have the full 4096 steps and can vary current in 4096x 0.125mA increments versus 2048x 0.25mA increments. I think we're saying the same thing, but a bit differently lol

Although 4096 steps of blinking, to simulate dimming, we cannot register with our eyes, is a lot. I don't think it would be that big of a deal, no. But hey, the beauty of these things is for $7 each you can plug and play to modify.

The 4096 doesn't matter a whole lot, but I don't know why you'd limit your dimming range since you're using 500mA maximum anyway

[betadeltadelta]

 

The 4096 doesn't matter a whole lot, but I don't know why you'd limit your dimming range since you're using 500mA maximum anyway

 

Yes that's if I were to select 500. Idk if I want 500, 700 or 1000. Just a wait and see since everyone has their own visual preference. I think 1000 is probably out. 6,000lm of white is a tad much.

 

I'd like to see what the OP's output looks like, I know he'll be complete before me.

[HM3105]

Would just like to confirm that I have a 2 cluster layout above my 40B and it is plenty of light. I'm running it a little higher than "a few inches" above the tank. I was running it at about 10" with no color banding. The light spread was perfect. I'm now running it about 20" above the tank for a little to see how I like it, again without optics.

 

 

 

Above pictures are to reference the height of the lights, and the light spread NOT THE COLOR, these pictures are taken with my iphone just for a reference, the coloring looks absolutely nothing like that.

 

So Milford, where can I find instructions for building your light enclosure?

 

The one they have is a preliminary datasheet. If you're looking at the BXRA-40E950-B-03 (which is the newest BXRA3 revision) then the datasheet is here: http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/DS24-Bridgelux-ES-Rectangle-Array-Data-Sheet-2014.01.27.pdf

 

Very, very rarely would you ever find a chip with such high voltage requirements. Bridgelux's wafers are good quality and there are FAR more 'typical' chips than otherwise. I would not worry about it.

 

I think that I would use one more cluster for spread in the middle like BDD is planning, though the extra cyan and violet aren't needed they won't hurt.

 

 

I am worried about the spread too, I guess I'll wait and see. I'm kind running up against my budget for this project so I may have to add it in later, these clusters are pretty modular in my eyes.

[milfordguy]

I will do a quick write up this weekend. I'm pretty happy with how it came out for the amount of effort I put in to it.

 

Does it look like a Radion enclosure? Hell no, but it cost me about $20 in parts and gave me some experience building with acrylic which I'm finding useful for other things.

[betadeltadelta]

I will do a quick write up this weekend. I'm pretty happy with how it came out for the amount of effort I put in to it.

 

Does it look like a Radion enclosure? Hell no, but it cost me about $20 in parts and gave me some experience building with acrylic which I'm finding useful for other things.

 

Yes it does... Just taller...

[HM3105]

The Lenina reflectors are EXPENSIVE! lol

 

After running single LEDs with lenses, triple puck LEDs without lenses, to multichip (BXRA, Vero, Luxeon M) LEDs with reflectors, and now my testing with no reflectors (bare LEDs, for use in my latest build), I'm finding that I'm liking the spread of that a lot more. Not as intense, but let's be honest, with how potent these LEDs are, running them full bore just isn't necessary lol. It would require more LEDs and a lower hang height, but it is yet another option

 

I would consider the Meanwell HLG-185H-48A for a power supply, it's more efficient than the SE series and is IP65 rated. It's $74 from onlinecomponents.com

 

Jedi sorry to keep bugging you with this, I've been obsessed with trying to find a better power supply per your recommendation. The one you listed above only does 3.9 AMP and your previous post said I needed at least 5A. I found another one that is more efficient but not IP65.

 

I found this one which is more efficient, will it work?

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2204728_-1

[jedimasterben]

Jedi sorry to keep bugging you with this, I've been obsessed with trying to find a better power supply per your recommendation. The one you listed above only does 3.9 AMP and your previous post said I needed at least 5A. I found another one that is more efficient but not IP65.

 

I found this one which is more efficient, will it work?

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2204728_-1

In the post from back in October, I had gotten some misinformation on how to calculate the amperage needed from the power supply. It was originally assumed that a 1000mA LDD would pull 1000mA at full power, regardless of if it had 12v of LEDs or 48v of LEDs. In reality, the LDD will only pull an amperage that it needs to power the LEDs - so to power 12v of LEDs at 1000mA on a 48v input, the LDD will draw approximately 312mA from the power supply, and will covert the extra voltage into drive current.

 

Once you find a power supply that gives the proper voltage (in the case of the HLG, 48v adjustable to 52v) and then calculate the total wattage of the LEDs you're powering, then be sure your power supply gives 20% more than that wattage, which is why I recommended the HLG-185H-48A, which gives 48v and a maximum of 185w, whereas your LEDs will be pulling less than that.

[HM3105]

So I am ordering my parts today and have two questions..

 

1. I'm buying the XP-E lenses/optics from LEDgroupbuy and I was wondering if the actual lense could be removed thereby making it into a standard reflector?

 

2. I'm going to switch out the XP-E blue for the XP-E2 blue. Any issues with this? I think Jedi said the 2 was a better blue.

[DVaDeR77]

Per him it is as I ordered some as well for my build but have yet to get them. They give a better color.

[HM3105]

Well been a while but I am hoping to begin this project within the next two weeks. Prior to that, I'd like to get some feed back on my planned channel layout.

 

CH1 - 2 BXRAs (I think I can use a 1,000h LDD to drive both of these)

CH2 - 4 Luxeon M, also 1,000h LDD

CH3 - 4 Rebel blues, 1 700h LDD

CH4 - 2 Cyan, also considering adding 4 lime to this channel (1x 700h LDD)

Ch5 - 12 violets (combination of Hyper and True, 1x 700h LDD)

 

Since the BXRAs can do up to 1a, I am assuming that using one LDD for those will result in only being able to use them up to 500ma or is that not how it works?

 

 

Thanks in advance.

[jedimasterben]

Running two BXRA 950 in series will give full current to both chips, only if run in parallel (unnecessary since their voltage is much lower than the Vero) will the current be divided.

[HM3105]

Running two BXRA 950 in series will give full current to both chips, only if run in parallel (unnecessary since their voltage is much lower than the Vero) will the current be divided.

 

Thanks..So the total volts needed for each LED tells you how many you can put on a single LDD and they will also receive up to the max current the LDD Is capable of pushing out? duh that makes perfect sense now that I think it through...

[HM3105]

So y'all don't think I'm a complete loser, I started my LED build this evening...Does anyone else think its Zen screwing down the little LED's to the heat sink or is that just me?

 

http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/HM3105/media/IMAG0460_zps43dea95d.jpg.html'>

 

I updated the first posts with some more parts, I'll try and keep updating it with answers to questions I had as I go for anyone who stumbles upon my little world.

[HM3105]

So before I start cutting these jumpers I bought for my Storm X, can someone confirm that I only need one ground going between the Coralux 5up board and the Storm, the rest are just there for looks more or less? This is for dimming control.

[Archaic37]

So before I start cutting these jumpers I bought for my Storm X, can someone confirm that I only need one ground going between the Coralux 5up board and the Storm, the rest are just there for looks more or less? This is for dimming control.

I am pretty sure you need to connect a ground to each channel connection. You can utilize a single wire from the board but it has to be split for each one otherwise the circuit will not be made.

[HM3105]

I am pretty sure you need to connect a ground to each channel connection. You can utilize a single wire from the board but it has to be split for each one otherwise the circuit will not be made.

 

I though that also, so I guess I'm not sure what I'm missing. The 5up boards don't have a ground for each connection. The Coralux controller says it has a common ground which I presume means only ground needs to be connected for it to work.

[Archaic37]

I though that also, so I guess I'm not sure what I'm missing. The 5up boards don't have a ground for each connection. The Coralux controller says it has a common ground which I presume means only ground needs to be connected for it to work.

Theres 3 grounds on the board, simply connect a wire to one of those and that will serve as your ground. If the storm says it has a common ground then you don't need to attach a ground to each one just to the one of them or the dedicated ground one.

[farkwar]

Common negative ground on the storm side.

 

No common on the LED side. If you meter the positives on the led side of the board you WILL get continuity, but the way the LDDs work it is not a common.

[HM3105]

So I finally got my Coralux 5up board wired I think, does anything look wrong?

 

 

The white wire in the second "v" slot is equal to a red wire coming from the power supply, they didn't have red and black sheathed in 14awg to match the power supply outputs.

[HM3105]

Anyone...?