Ventralis Anthias

[ReviloM]

Liveaquaria has females back in stock at $89.99 and males are 129.99!!!

[xzeror]

What size tank? I have a shoal of lyretails and I love em.

[ReviloM]

What size tank? I have a shoal of lyretails and I love em.

huh? And you dont want lyretails with these, especially if a lyretail is the dominate in the pecking order. They will kill the ventralis either physically or starve them out.

[xzeror]

I was asking what size tank do you have those in lol. I don't plan on putting anymore anthias in but if I get a new tank these would be awesome to keep.

[ReviloM]

I have 2 in a 65G. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/327800-65g-rimless-sps-dominated-anthias-haven-new-additions-post-78/?p=4472871

[flypenfly]

I wouldn't only do a temperature acclimation. Check the salinity and ph of the shipping water and try to get it within 10% before moving it over. I generally only acclimate for about 20-30 minutes with a airline dripper constantly stirring the water and surface.

 

Also, I would make 100% certain the Q tank is cycled...

[ReviloM]

I wouldn't only do a temperature acclimation. Check the salinity and ph of the shipping water and try to get it within 10% before moving it over. I generally only acclimate for about 20-30 minutes with a airline dripper constantly stirring the water and surface.

 

Also, I would make 100% certain the Q tank is cycled...

The ventralis that I only temperature acclimated is thriving. He is eating properly. Stays out majority of the time. That quarantine tank was setup using tank water from the display so there was no need of a cycle. Drip method is a bit slow and the temperature in the container holding the fish wouldn't remain steady anymore.

 

I normally don't drip/cup acclimate fish or corals. I only did it because these were very delicate fish and I saw that I should have just temp acclimated like I normally do any other fish which checked out that I was correct when I got the male. With corals, I just temp acclimate and dip then place in the tank. No RTN or bleaching ever occurs unless the coral already arrive RTN'ing. A lot of people don't approve of this way but it has worked for me numerous times. I even do the same with fish from my LFS which has a salinity of 1.022. I still have the Randall anthias to prove it.

[flypenfly]

Tank water is irrelevant.

 

Not matching salinity is the fastest way to shock fish. While I don't believe in long acclimations unless it's for clams or starfish... salinity differences will cause osmotic shock. Serious mistake to not get salinity close.

 

I actually have the same tank but I keep copperbands and Tamarins... This is one of mine.

 

[ReviloM]

Tank water is irrelevant.

 

Not matching salinity is the fastest way to shock fish. While I don't believe in long acclimations unless it's for clams or starfish... salinity differences will cause osmotic shock. Serious mistake to not get salinity close.

 

I actually have the same tank but I keep copperbands and Tamarins... This is one of mine.

 

True to some but I have never had a problem with fish dying from acclimation until I acclimated the first female ventralis' in which I did temp and cup acclimation. 2 died and 1 lived but only because I put her in the display. The male I chose my norm and success right away. I'm not saying what you are saying wrong. What works best in this hobby are things you are able to do and yield the same results each time. No matter if the results or negative or positive. You learn to not do it that way again or to continue doing it that way. There is no (1) right way in this hobby.

[flypenfly]

I agree with you about still unclear vague topics like trace elements, amino acid dosing, light intensity affecting various SPS growth patterns. However, salinity acclimation though is a pretty basic tenant of fish keeping, no LFS doesn't do it, hell even Petco does it. There's basic simple science on why you do it. Remember, just because you got lucky in the short time you've been keeping saltwater fish doesn't mean it's good husbandry.

 

It's kind of like not throwing salt into a live tank, it might be convenient but it's bad for the inhabitants. Maybe not right away and maybe not every time but it's a unnecessary risk. At least check the salinity of the water in the bag.

[ReviloM]

I agree with you about still unclear vague topics like trace elements, amino acid dosing, light intensity affecting various SPS growth patterns. However, salinity acclimation though is a pretty basic tenant of fish keeping, no LFS doesn't do it, hell even Petco does it. There's basic simple science on why you do it. Remember, just because you got lucky in the short time you've been keeping saltwater fish doesn't mean it's good husbandry.

 

It's kind of like not throwing salt into a live tank, it might be convenient but it's bad for the inhabitants. Maybe not right away and maybe not every time but it's a unnecessary risk. At least check the salinity of the water in the bag.

I have been using this way for almost 2 years now. My current tank is new sorta (since May). My oldest living fish with this method was a Blue-sided fairy wrasse which I had since I started up till about 2 days ago when I traded it at my LFS for an SPS. If isn't broke, don't fix it. I am not telling anyone to follow my methods. Just saying.

 

And shocked was ruled out as the reason why the females died.

[Roshan8768]

I do just temp. acclimation the majority of the time, but I check the salinity to make sure it's around the same every time. Never lost a fish immediately after acclimation using this method (36 hrs.) I think it was probably the lack of hiding places/ unfamiliarity of the quarantine that did in the first 2 in addition to shipping poorly. Definitely agree that you should check the salinity though

[ReviloM]

I do just temp. acclimation the majority of the time, but I check the salinity to make sure it's around the same every time. Never lost a fish immediately after acclimation using this method (36 hrs.) I think it was probably the lack of hiding places/ unfamiliarity of the quarantine that did in the first 2 in addition to shipping poorly. Definitely agree that you should check the salinity though

Yeah it wouldn't hurt but some people make things seem worst than what it really is. I would probably check salinity like that if I bought $200+ fish or a very rare one, otherwise nope not gonna waste more time in the acclimation process and risk the fish dying; well with anthias. I love anthias and they have become easier for me to keep the longer I i have them. They do not take acclimation well, even the lyretails.

[flypenfly]

Acclimation isn't exactly stressful if you're doing it right. It would be far, far more stressful to be dumped into a new tank with wildly different water chemistry. Remember fish are mostly water but I think you've convinced yourself that this basic best practice That Every Single vendor, LFS, and research facility does is not for you.

[ReviloM]

 

Acclimation isn't exactly stressful if you're doing it right. It would be far, far more stressful to be dumped into a new tank with wildly different water chemistry. Remember fish are mostly water but I think you've convinced yourself that this basic best practice That Every Single vendor, LFS, and research facility does is not for you.

Acclimation is stress to the fish no matter how you do. And yes fish are made of water just as we are made of water but that is irreverent to the conversation. You're not acclimimating a liquid fish. Never did I say that everyone else was wrong and that everyone should stop and change to what I am doing. I think you should stroll back up and read my responses. my ventralis male is alive and that's all that matters. And some things that lfs, vendors, and wholesaler a do, you can't. They aren't focused on keeping fish in the facility long term.