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Coral Vue Hydros

Ecotech Radion Pro


picoreef78

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How do you get those installed?

 

It's super easy and comes with a step-by-step instructions w/ pictures. All you need is a Phillips head screwdriver (I think I was using a #2) and a set of small metric allen keys (I think you need 4mm) but if you have a good set of standard allen keys, it should still work using like a 5/32" or something.

 

You remove the 4 fan screws and 4 cover screws (phillips) to pull off the cover of the light. Once that is off, you remove the 4 screws (hex) that hold down each lens and simply replace it with the wide angle lenses.The biggest challenge is doing the entire thing while wearing gloves because you can't touch the inside of the lenses or the LED diodes themselves since any oils from your hands can damage the LEDs. Watch out for any errant thermal paste that got stuck to the hex bolts holding down the lenses since it can make a big mess - my unit had thermal paste all over the place.

 

It took maybe 30 minutes to take down my Radion Pro, disconnect it, clean it up, swap out the lenses, put it back together, and then rehang it all while eating dinner.

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1/31: 14 dKH

2/2: 11.2 dkH

2/7: 9.8 dKH

2/19: 11.2 dKH

 

^ That is not stable. Looks like it is getting there during the month of February, but it didn't start that way. That is 99% likely what caused your STN right there - it wasn't bacterial. If it were bacterial and killing your acro, it would be a strain of Vibrio and a dip would do absolutely nothing for it since they are not surface bacteria. While the pine oil in Revive is an antimicrobial, it doesn't penetrate the surface and is just stressing the coral even more than it is.

 

If the STN stops, it is totally unrelated to the dip and is because you fragged it. If it starts receding again in 2-3 weeks you will know your Alkalinity is still not stable enough.

Following the mEq/l, more accurate parameter.

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Following the mEq/l, more accurate parameter.

 

They are the same parameter - just a different scale of measurement - neither is more accurate than the other. Saying one is more accurate than the other is like saying 12.7 centimeters is more accurate than 5 inches. Alkalinity can be measured in Meq/L, dKH, and PPM. For example, 3.5 meq/l = 9.8 dKH = 175 ppm. They are all the exact same measurement. Also, a swing of 0.5 meq/l is a pretty big swing - 1.4 dKH or 25ppm.

 

The other thing I noticed is that every measurement you took is either a whole or half meq/l. I am not sure if that is just coincidence, but for stability, you need much better resolution than 1/2 meq/l since that equates to 1.4 dKH. If you can only get within a half meq/l of precision, you can't have a stable tank.

 

If your Alkalinity is moving on a daily basis even just 1/2 or 3/4 of a dKH (0.18 - 0.27 meq/l), that isn't really enough stability for acros - especially little frags. Sure, a dKH down over the coruse of a week would be absolutely fine, but on a daily basis you want that number to move as little as possible. My daily alkalinity readings, along with most others who keep acros, are within 2-3 ppm per day - which is just 0.04 - 0.06 meq/l. Less than even 1/20th of a meq/l.

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Acropora sp "Tyree Lemonade" what ever that means, has once pink growth zone, about 1.5 mm encrusting over the past week.

 

Acropora nana "GARF bonsai" less so at about 0.5 mm encrusting over the pat week.

 

Mystery Acro sp has had the most robust growth, about 2mm over a week and a half.

 

Color slowly coming back to the Echinopora llameosa, was completely white.

 

Ora Red Planet, is slower at encrusting, <0.5mm. I was hoping this would be a faster one.



Pictures done with iPhone under 14K.

 

Using the pre-programed high growth template.

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Did you even read that? ALL titration test kits measure the exact same thing using pH endpoint titration (with the exception of Hanna which is a colorimetric test) - so in the aquarium hobby meq/l, dKH, and ppm are all exactly the same - just different units of measure for all intents and purposes in our hobby. Yes, technically in strictly scientific terms, at different pH, they mean slightly different things chemically, however our test kits do NOT have this distinction and we don't recognize it in the aquarium hobby seeing as we can't test for it. This is just like the distinction in our hobby between SPS and LPS, which means absolutely nothing in the scientific community since they are all scleractinians.

 

Back to lighting - that chalice is pretty seriously bleached. "Hollywood Stunner" or "Alien Eye" chalices need to be really slowly photo acclimated to Radions or kept in the shade. Even at just 30% and 16-18" below the surface, if they are in the hotspot they will fry (from personal experience putting frags from my colony on the sand). It's a long road to having it recover from bleaching - probably a good few months. The GARF looks really faded too but the picture isn't clear and nothing has polyps out. What percentage are the lights running at?

 

Note: I re-read the thread and I just want to say that I am not trying to argue or come off that I'm trying to rag on your or something like that - I am really trying to point out the things going on in your tank and get you on the right track. Spending $100 or $200 on acros only to have them either bleach, brown, or worse - recede and die is incredibly frustrating and never feels good. Your acros don't look like they are in good shape and getting them to recover and thrive isn't going to be easy.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So Acropora nana is now 1/4 from bottom, light lavender color, bleached from deep purple of the initial fray color. Polys still fluoresce green under 18 or 20K and deep blue. I moved the Montipora capricornis to the sand bed.

 

After an initial color up I move the Echinopora lamelleosa to the sand bed. (Looks great at 20K).

 

Lost the Favia and the Unfortunately.

 

Water quality tests well. Specs are on my aquarium page. Hair algae that was goring in the strong current has all bet disappears, now I just have a diatom dusting of the sand bed.

 

Scaled the lights from 60% to 50% 1.5 weeks ago.

 

I have some coral doing really well, the Tyree Pink lemonade, both Staphylopora's. Mystery Acro is doing well but also a pastel light blue color. Moved him to a different spot to evaluate.

 

Bring down the intensity more 45%?

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Droped stuff down to sandbed and lore in the tank. Thinking of observing for a few weeks and dropping Acropora nana to sanded prior to scaling back. EBN is at 100%. The big change/difference I did was the high growth algorithm instead of the natural mode.

 

I probably should go back to natural mode before scaling back as well.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Anyone have experience with natural parabolic mode vs the high growth mode. Still having to sandbed corals at 50% intensity.

 

Only two corals really starting to encrust, the Tyree Pink lemonade acro and a mystery acro.

 

 

Red planet static.

GARF bonsai on sand bed coloring up.

Stylophoras static and looking healthy.

A new Seratiopora bleached now on sand bed (he was 1/4 from the bottom).

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  • 5 months later...

Anyone running EcoTech Radion Pro at 100%

 

Running mine at 70% reasonable growth, colors ok, bleached corals regained color. (Previous bleaching likely due to faulty hydrometer and supra saline environment)

 

24x24x20 190 liter system.

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  • 4 months later...

I have purchased the 120 degree TIR lens.

I am running the light at 55% intensity and trying to figure out how much to ramp up. Looks to be about a 50% drop on the website schematic.

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  • 4 months later...
picoreef78

So far natural med seems to encourage more growth. Coral radiance mode causes the development of more florescent proteins, so far over 4 weeks of observation.

 

Running at 85% maximum intensity and set peak light temperature to 13k (trying to find some in-between).

 

Anyone running a Gen 2 or 3 at 100%? Any comments from experience?

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