jedimasterben Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 It is a hybrid, Tridacna squamosa x crocea. Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 Nice, that's pretty cool. Thanks for all the IDs Mr Microscope, you've helped a lot so far. And thanks ben for the positive ID. Link to comment
Mr. Microscope Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Big photo update coming tonight! Got in the mail yesterday: hydor smart level w/toms aqualifter (gonna start dripping kalk), an azoo cooling fan, and an auto feeder. Going to be able to leave the tank for almost a month without worry. Also snagged a new camera, Samsung NX2000, going to be taking lots of pictures this evening. Keep up! Awesome! Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Today kind of got away from me and this isn't the update I was hoping to give but it's better than nothing. Had to turn the lights back on to get these few pics so things are a little upset. Not sure what happened but it seems I'm losing to algae yet again, really thought I'd have a hold on it after a year. SPS is looking awful, I need to get a better alk treat and a Mg test. Probably going to start dosing soon and running some gfo. This really isn't an easy hobby.... Moving houses August 1st and hoping to get more on top of tank maintenence, not giving in just yet! Link to comment
Mr. Microscope Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 This really isn't an easy hobby.... You can say that again.. I feel your pain. Good luck with the move. Awesome stylo BTW. Love that purple one. Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Thought this ato was going to make life easier but I've spent the past 2 hours messing with it. The tom's Aqualifter pumps too slowly and the hydor smart level shuts off before it can adequately full the tank. If anyone has some insight, please, let me know! Link to comment
Mr. Microscope Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Thought this ato was going to make life easier but I've spent the past 2 hours messing with it. The tom's Aqualifter pumps too slowly and the hydor smart level shuts off before it can adequately full the tank. If anyone has some insight, please, let me know! I'd just replace the aqualifter with a cheap pump. Should do the trick. You might want to throw another float valve in your ATO near the bottom to act as a shut-off if your reservoir gets too low so you don't risk running your pump dry. Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 http://s1312.photobucket.com/user/suchock2/media/11_6_14/SAM_0025_zpsjklpkgyt.jpg.html'> http://s1312.photobucket.com/user/suchock2/media/11_6_14/SAM_0007_zpsnl60havi.jpg.html'> Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Someone needs a rabbitfish Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Been doing H2O2 treatments, twice weekly water changes which include siphoning a good handful of algae out, new rodi filters (didnt change because tds was still 0), new bulbs coming tomorrow running a reduced light cycle, and added a lawnmower blenny. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Only the peroxide dosing would do anything for bubble algae, the rest of it won't have any effect. Your best option is to remove the rock, scrape off the bubble algae, rinse it (very important step) and then spot treat any remaining bubble algae with peroxide. Link to comment
CronicReefer Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Have you thought about adding an algae scrubber? I've seen a lot of people having good success with these and reducing algae from growing on the rock. Maybe just an option to try before trying to scrub everything down. Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Also running gfo in the ac70. The bubble algae has gone down majorly, even if it doesnt look like it. I siphon them out with a 25ml platic pipette attached to my siphon hose. And am hopefully removing enough phosphates to prevent their return. Its working, slowly, but surely. I would take things out but the majority is on the rock wall which isnt coming out until I break this baby down. Ben you say "wont have any effect" but that I know to be false, ill admit Im not going to win the battle just siphoning but I wont win without it. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 If you're physically removing the algae, then that is just a slower process than what I suggested but has the same effect. The issue is that valonia is just so prolific that when you have a lot like that you need to remove large portions of it more often. Since the rock is not removable, one thing that you can do is carefully scrape it off in the tank while siphoning into the sump or a bucket with a very fine filter sock and putting just the water back( or just doing a very large water change), then after you finish do a dose of hydrogen peroxide to help keep the spores that are released from spreading. Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Right, Ive been doing that twice a week and making them into 20% water changes. Ill snap a pic of what I remove during one tonight for ya. Never thought about dosing peroxide though, just been using it to spot treat above the water when I drain. Any idea how much is safe to dose? I spot treat with 1-2 ml every other day. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Spot treating is best if you aren't actively scraping the bubbles off, as bursting the bubbles is what makes it spread. Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Im thinking that changing out my year old t5 bulbs will really help too, not quite sure why Ive had this problem since the start. Ive always used rodi, always done at least once a week 20% H2O changes, always had low stocking density and I dont overfeed. Ive tried a few different things but can only seem to slow the growth, never eliminate the problem... Should I change any Rodi filters even though im showing 0ppm going out (~150 going in)? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 You should replace your prefilters every 6 months with quality, low-micron sediment and carbon filters. If you are keeping track of how much water you're making and how much chlorine is in your tap water, then you can calculate how long it should take your carbon block to exhaust, and if you can verify any pressure drop from your sediment filter then you can tell when it needs to be changed. DI resins should only be replaced once they're exhausted and letting TDS through. Bubble algae isn't really nutrient limited. Once it is in your tank, it's pretty much just there, proliferating through basically spores released when the bubbles pop. There are also different strains, some being more prolific than others. Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Alrighty, regardless of the bubble algae not being nutrient limited im going to go ahead and change the prefilters. Is it okay to use water straight away or should i flush the system 1st? Do you have any info/sources on bubble algae problems not depending on P levels? Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 I need to get rid of this bubble algae. Its not going away with any method other than peroxide. The peroxide really only seems to work out of the tank and my rock wall cant be removed and put back in easily. Im going to trash the rock wall and siphon out the sand. Goin bare bottom. I think this will make the algae problem much more manageable. Does anyone think removing the rock wall and sand will put too large of a dent in my bacterial community to cause an ammonia spike? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 No, but I can tell you that nutrient reduction won't really help prevent the bubble algae from spreading. Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 No, but I can tell you that nutrient reduction won't really help prevent the bubble algae from spreading.Right. By moving to a scape that is far more removable i will be able to scrub and peroxide treat the rocks. Its near impossible to use peroxide underwater, at least from my attempts. H2O2 is the only way I will beat this. By "siphon out the sand" I meant removing it completely. Not necessarily to help combat the bubble algae I just think it will be easier to keep things clean in general Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Right. By moving to a scape that is far more removable i will be able to scrub and peroxide treat the rocks. Its near impossible to use peroxide underwater, at least from my attempts. H2O2 is the only way I will beat this. By "siphon out the sand" I meant removing it completely. Not necessarily to help combat the bubble algae I just think it will be easier to keep things clean in general Ah ok, I see what you mean now. Yes, manual attack to the bubble algae (removal/peroxide) are really the only way barring getting a wascawwy wabbit. I don't particularly like the look of no sand, especially now that the white starboard is no longer white lol. Tang and molly both like it, though! Link to comment
afyounie Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 So the Siganus genus will eat up bubble algae? Like a One Spot Foxface? Because I want to get it under control then be able to keep up with it by siphoning and H2O2 injection. Link to comment
wow.such.chris Posted December 2, 2014 Author Share Posted December 2, 2014 Maybe ill leave the sand. Doesnt really have much to do with the bubbles... Link to comment
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