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Review of the Lumia 5.1 - PAR readings, pics, etc


jedimasterben

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The all channels light looks good.

 

Any chance of some pics of what this looks like over a tank?

 

Electrically, could I just wire up all 5 channels to one dimmable driver in parallel? I have a couple 60-46D meanwells I want to use for something.

You could, but if one channel fails, then ALL of them fail, and you lose the whole chip.

Although, if you lose one channel, then you would probably throw the chip anyway...

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jedimasterben

The all channels light looks good.

 

Any chance of some pics of what this looks like over a tank?

 

Electrically, could I just wire up all 5 channels to one dimmable driver in parallel? I have a couple 60-46D meanwells I want to use for something.

The forward voltages for each channel are different, and as such will cause your amperage across the strings to vary wildly. I'd stay far away from parallel strings and this chip.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ben, do you think a single lumia could cover my tank (28"L x 9.5"H x 14"W) using my existing heat sink (4.25" x 16" from RapidLED)? Could I shorten that heat sink down to say 12" and still have adequate cooling?

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  • 2 months later...

Where do I find those boards you have your drivers on?

I got them from someone on in the for sale forums here, but they got them from Iteadstudio, where you just send the design files and money and they ship you the boards. 10 boards for like $20 plus shipping or something like that. Then the other parts I got off of ebay and soldered on.

 

But now that Coralux has them and they're cheap from them, I would just get them from there.

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I got them from someone on in the for sale forums here, but they got them from Iteadstudio, where you just send the design files and money and they ship you the boards. 10 boards for like $20 plus shipping or something like that. Then the other parts I got off of ebay and soldered on.

 

But now that Coralux has them and they're cheap from them, I would just get them from there.

 

Thanks I am looking to do a similar build I am starting my first reef in a 55 gallon tank I think two would do just fine. Would I be able to control both with the storm led controller?

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Storm or StormX for two Lumias?

 

With all the other costs involved, what is the $40 difference?

 

Of course you could run both on the Storm, just doubling up on the outputs to the second drivers. But why would you?

The Lumia only has five channels - why would you want to individually control colors twice?

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Clouds and Lightning, of course. All kidding aside, wouldn't you want the extra channels if you might supplement the Lumias in the future. Say you wanted to add violet channels to the build, for example.

 

MORE violet channels? It's already 40% violets. I guess you could add more though, but I would add colors.

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MORE violet channels? It's already 40% violets. I guess you could add more though, but I would add colors.

More like 30% violets. The TV channel is half cool blue.
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I have 9w of violets on a 5g tank. On full blast, it's still pretty dim. Running that channel for extended periods, and with more violets... well, I'll stick with RB for main lighting.

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  • 6 months later...

Hello guys,

 

I need you support because I can not believe the PAR measurements that I had ....

 

I used Apogee, in a 54cm high aquarium.... the PAR in the top, only 1cm below the water was 200. In the bottom of the aquarium was around 100. All lumias 5.1. with lens , and 20cm from the water.

 

I think this is very poor values... The SPS can not live with this light...

 

Any idea? can be really?

 

Thanks

Carlos

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jedimasterben

Hello guys,

 

I need you support because I can not believe the PAR measurements that I had ....

 

I used Apogee, in a 54cm high aquarium.... the PAR in the top, only 1cm below the water was 200. In the bottom of the aquarium was around 100. All lumias 5.1. with lens , and 20cm from the water.

 

I think this is very poor values... The SPS can not live with this light...

 

Any idea? can be really?

 

Thanks

Carlos

 

 

What current do you get from the drivers?

 

Also, you're at ~30" away from the LEDs, you mention lens, but not sure which you have or what you have it set to. 100 PAR at the bottom of your tank is the number you need to shoot for, but light follows the inverse square law - double the distance, one quarter the PAR, half the distance, quadruple the PAR. You measurement at 21cm should be significantly higher than the reading at 74cm.

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Hi, thanks Jedimasterben.

 

Each line have installed a 700mA LDD....The current are 700mA (at the maximum the LDD are very very hot).

The lens are that : http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/lumia-5-1-optic-lens/

 

PAR value of 100 in the bottom are not the problem, is good value, the problem are the measurement of 400 at 2cm of the lens (in the air), and 180-200 at 1cm in the water.

 

I must put the lumia at 5cm from the water layer?

 

Thanks

Carlos

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That lens is the problem, it exacerbates for me at least, color separation. It focuses beams of light from the LED emitters.

 

My first guess would be that you are taking a read, that up close, between the beams of light given off by the individual LED emitters.

 

What you are describing is just not physically possible, inverse square law jazz, otherwise.

 

Take the lens off, then take your reads.

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jedimasterben

Hi, thanks Jedimasterben.

 

Each line have installed a 700mA LDD....The current are 700mA (at the maximum the LDD are very very hot).

The lens are that : http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/lumia-5-1-optic-lens/

 

PAR value of 100 in the bottom are not the problem, is good value, the problem are the measurement of 400 at 2cm of the lens (in the air), and 180-200 at 1cm in the water.

 

I must put the lumia at 5cm from the water layer?

 

Thanks

Carlos

The LDD should not be hot at any current, they only dissipate at most 3w each, which is a drop in the proverbial bucket :)

 

Do you have a multimeter?

 

Farkwar mentions removing the lens and testing, but to be honest the lens will multiply your PAR readings and scatter the light from the individual diodes (though I have heard several people say that their lens has given color banding, so I don't know what is going on).

 

I recommend pretty much any LED array (minus things like the 'evil cluster' which use very different reflectors and optics that take more distance to mix and spread) be run at ~8" (which is 20cm, right where you have it) off the water's surface - not close enough to where it'll be too in the way or get a lot of water droplets splashed to it, but not too far away that power is much lower.

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Ive popped an LDD1000 due to heat, Milad suggested that..It was running a CXA 2520 at 100% though (i dont do that now).

 

Mine get hot to the touch at 100%. Hot enough Ive considered fan, thermal paste, and a heatsink. The Nuventix Razor Jet specifically(not available yet)..

 

I'm pretty sure my Cluster PS runs at 52v, but the Lumia PS is stock 48v.

 

I know its only supposed to be 3w, but, well, they still get pretty hot on me.

 

That lens is unusable for me, at 50º which I wAnted to run at, you can visibly see 50 individual colored circles at about 36 inches. I put a sheet of diffusion acrylic in front if it, and all is right with the world. Doing that pretty much convinced me that diffusion of LEDs solves many of LEDs inherent problems(burning, bleaching, disco, coral self shadow light issues, etc)(photographers spend a lot of effort and money diffusing their light because it's more pleasing). That lens will only work, acceptably for me, if the colors are mixed first (like a mixing box on a photo enlarger).

 

Long winded logorrhea post. Can't explain the poster's numbers other than user error. Apologies.

 

20140306_183240.jpg

 

Gives it a Sicce Minu or Mame Design feel, I think.

 

Thats one of my CS67 enlargers in the background, the one with the diffusion mixing box as stock.

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Hello again,

 

I don't feel any problem with the lens, the color inside the aquarium looks correct.

 

Here you can see the installation of the lumia, at 10" from the water layer. Maybe will be better at 8" but I can move it if this is the problem...

 

I check it the LDD voltage and the maximum value are 34v DC....I can not understand why are very hot.

.

.

.

 

My question still been the same..... Why I only obtain 200 PAR in the water layer at maximum power lumia?

 

Thanks to all people

post-83392-0-03045400-1398692507_thumb.jpg

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Not regarding your question, but you should seriously consider grounding those power supplies.

 

I would not run high voltage and low voltage in the same raceway. Especially parallel to each other. Especially signal carrying lines.

 

Bad juju.

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jedimasterben

You actually want to be measuring the DC forward current, that is what determines the output/brightness :)

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I don't understand you Ben... What I must check?

 

I control the DC current with this values by channel

 

Lumia nº1:

34.3v , 35.0v , 28.3v, 34.2v , 34.5v

 

Lumia nº2:

34.6v , 35.2v , 28.1v , 22.7v , 33.8v

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