jedimasterben Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Build specs: CH1 12x XP-E2 blue CH22x Vero 18 4000K 90CRI CH3 12x SemiLEDs C35-L 415-420nm violet CH46x Luxeon M royal blue 6x SemiLEDs 440-445nm royal blueCH52x Luxeon Rebel cyan4x Luxeon Rebel ES lime CH6 Fan control 2x Giesemann Super Actinic 6x Meanwell LDD-700H 1x Meanwell SCW05C-121x Meanwell HLG-185H-48A Controlled by the Bluefish Mini LED controller.EDIT 9: Evil Cluster v2 http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-cncreef-asis-pro-1024-ledt5ho-evil-cluster-hybrid/?p=5155761EDIT 8: OMGWTF PAR! http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-ct-7567-the-ledt5-nanobox-hybrid-evil-cluster/?p=4750079EDIT 7: Pics! http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-ct-7567-the-ledt5-nanobox-hybrid-evil-cluster/?p=4749405EDIT 6: Assembly begins! http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-ct-7567-the-ledt5-nanobox-hybrid-evil-cluster/?p=4741573EDIT 5: Well, that didn't last long lol. Nanobox housing is forthcoming, with another LED change.EDIT 4: First hybrid build revision: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-ct-7567-the-ledt5-nanobox-hybrid-evil-cluster/page-30#entry4497149EDIT 3: Build is going hybrid. http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-ct-7567-the-ledt5-nanobox-hybrid-evil-cluster/page-27#entry4483941EDIT 2: Pics and PAR readings over an empty tank here: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-ct-7567-the-ledt5-nanobox-hybrid-evil-cluster/page-18#entry4353709EDIT: Pics and PAR readings of a mockup cluster here: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/323517-ct-7567-the-ledt5-nanobox-hybrid-evil-cluster/?p=4328767 Link to comment
Psychosis Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 I'm running a similar principal in my build. Not the LED, that's all greek to me (I pick up bits and pieces from your post) but my refugium will be displayed to the right of the tank just as posted above. I'm building it in to the stand shortly. Link to comment
ajmckay Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Dude that light (evil cluster) was insane.... It looks like this one will be insane as well It seems as though people have used these bridgelux chips with great results, but only in a few cases that I can think of. Also the ledil reflectors are sexy as hell. On a side note, order extra LDD drivers - just in case! Heatsink specs? Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 Why order extra LDD? The heatsinks are just generics from Heatsinkusa. 4.85" and 1.81" cut to the lengths needed. Link to comment
topjimmy Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 There is a huge thread on these type of builds over on the "other" board.... I can't wait to see this Ben. I almost did a similar build when I was putting together my lights. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 There is a huge thread on these type of builds over on the "other" board.... I can't wait to see this Ben. I almost did a similar build when I was putting together my lights. I could not find one. Link me? And saying 'link me' reminded me of 'LIGHT ME!' Link to comment
topjimmy Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2128756&highlight=multi+chip It's huge...... Link to comment
ajmckay Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Why order extra LDD?The heatsinks are just generics from Heatsinkusa. 4.85" and 1.81" cut to the lengths needed. Because they're so useful, and hard to find in-stock (hw model) domestically. I doubt you'll blow one up like I did... Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2128756&highlight=multi+chip It's huge...... Oh, but most of them are using those garbage ebay LEDs. The cluster over my little tank (will total to about 80w) will pound the shit out of their 200w+ ones. Because they're so useful, and hard to find in-stock (hw model) domestically. I doubt you'll blow one up like I did... http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/meanwell-ldd-700hw-led-driver/ Milad's getting in shipments of them regularly, and 1000H, 700H, and 500H may or may not be inbound... Link to comment
Spirofucci Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Why go through all this trouble and expense? Just get a Radion Pro.......... Link to comment
topjimmy Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Oh, but most of them are using those garbage ebay LEDs. The cluster over my little tank (will total to about 80w) will pound the shit out of their 200w+ ones. I agree, but the premise is the same. There is a lot of good info on it. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Optics will be different pretty much for each LED. The Bridgelux chips on the main tank will have Ledil Brooke-W reflectors, which are 50° FWHM, so effective 100°. On the little tank, the Bridgelux will have Ledil Brooke-S 24°, so 50° effective - a bit wide to be really effective at such a distance (will be 28" from the top of the tank), but it's really all I can get for these chips. They are physically huge - the diodes are like 19mm wide. For comparison, a 'normal' LED star is 20mm, with the diodes being 3-4mm across. Big is an understatement Ledil corrected the way they were reporting the FWHM for the BROOKE reflectors. If you actually look at the distribution plot in the datasheet, you will see the angle is 50 degrees at 50% intensity for the BROOKE-W reflector. Same thing with all the other angles, so you may want to revisit your spread projections for your tanks. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 Why go through all this trouble and expense? Just get a Radion Pro.......... Have shitty light at over six times the cost of this? Absolutely not. I agree, but the premise is the same. There is a lot of good info on it. True, reading over it will take a while lol. Ledil corrected the way they were reporting the FWHM for the BROOKE reflectors. If you actually look at the distribution plot in the datasheet, you will see the angle is 50 degrees at 50% intensity for the BROOKE-W reflector. Same thing with all the other angles, so you may want to revisit your spread projections for your tanks. Was it just the Brooke? It should still work with what I'm doing, if anything I'll just hang the main light up a bit higher. thanks evil! Link to comment
ajmckay Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2128756&highlight=multi+chip It's huge...... Wow just looking at that thread reminds me why I choose not to frequent RC very much... In the 5th post: "Thanks much for the clear answers. (Yes, an under-100 poster would be well advised to not put in ebay links)" Really? Alas it is true you can get banned permanently from RC for posting an eBay link - even with more than 100 posts. Then again some people post links and don't get banned... Who knows. But yes I agree with Ben that the RC thread has more to do with multichip LEDs (where blues/whites/whatevers are all on a single chip. While they are nice a "cluster" is good because it allows you more control over color rendition. Correct me if I'm wrong Ben, but your decision to use the Bridgelux white was primarily due to color and efficiency rather than pure power? Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Have shitty light at over six times the cost of this? Absolutely not. True, reading over it will take a while lol. Was it just the Brooke? It should still work with what I'm doing, if anything I'll just hang the main light up a bit higher. thanks evil! The BROOKE reflectors were the only ones I was paying attention to at the time, but there may have been others that had the same error. None of the TIR lenses seemed to have that problem. After seeing that issue, I always compare the stated FWHM to the distribution plot on any optic I'm looking at. It's just a good practice to make sure that someone didn't fat finger something. With 50 degree optics, and a newer, more efficient LED than what I used, you should be able to mount this setup much higher. Remember, I was hitting 1500 PAR at 18", and still getting 300 PAR at 4 feet! And that was without any violet LEDs, which are PAR monsters by themselves (be careful with as many as you have). Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 Wow just looking at that thread reminds me why I choose not to frequent RC very much... In the 5th post: "Thanks much for the clear answers. (Yes, an under-100 poster would be well advised to not put in ebay links)" Really? Alas it is true you can get banned permanently from RC for posting an eBay link - even with more than 100 posts. Then again some people post links and don't get banned... Who knows. But yes I agree with Ben that the RC thread has more to do with multichip LEDs (where blues/whites/whatevers are all on a single chip. While they are nice a "cluster" is good because it allows you more control over color rendition. Correct me if I'm wrong Ben, but your decision to use the Bridgelux white was primarily due to color and efficiency rather than pure power? Yep, RC is pretty ridiculous. I got banned for mentioning neutral whites being superior to cool whites for color rendition. Shitheads. You're correct, color and partially efficiency. At 1000ma, they're only pushing around 100-110lm/w, but with both evil and blasterman holding that line in such high regard, I figured I needed to check them out for myself. The BROOKE reflectors were the only ones I was paying attention to at the time, but there may have been others that had the same error. None of the TIR lenses seemed to have that problem. After seeing that issue, I always compare the stated FWHM to the distribution plot on any optic I'm looking at. It's just a good practice to make sure that someone didn't fat finger something. With 50 degree optics, and a newer, more efficient LED than what I used, you should be able to mount this setup much higher. Remember, I was hitting 1500 PAR at 18", and still getting 300 PAR at 4 feet! And that was without any violet LEDs, which are PAR monsters by themselves (be careful with as many as you have). Gotcha. And my thoughts on it were that yours were spaced very closely together, whereas these will be spread apart by 6" one each heatsink, then a 14" space between heatsinks. It is a shitload of light, though. Maybe I should hang it higher than I originally planned Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 With the wider spacing, you should have lower peak PAR numbers, but it's still going to be fairly high. That's what dimmable drivers are for though, right? Link to comment
GHill762 Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Yep, RC is pretty ridiculous. I got banned for mentioning neutral whites being superior to cool whites for color rendition. Shitheads. wow... I never liked RC much anyhow.. very rarely even venture over there.. on a side note, ever visit forums from South Africa or Austraila? I find some interesting threads and a little different attitude toward the hobby.. and sometimes some cool stuff we don't see here.. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 With the wider spacing, you should have lower peak PAR numbers, but it's still going to be fairly high. That's what dimmable drivers are for though, right? Absolutely! wow... I never liked RC much anyhow.. very rarely even venture over there.. on a side note, ever visit forums from South Africa or Austraila? I find some interesting threads and a little different attitude toward the hobby.. and sometimes some cool stuff we don't see here.. Not particularly, but sometimes searches for specific things will turn up results from some. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 I'm still looking for an excuse to use this beastie: http://www.newark.com/bridgelux/bxra-40e7500-j-00/rs-array-neutral-white-7500lm/dp/73T6210?Ntt=BXRA-40E7500-J-00 7850lm at the test current of 2800mA (~85W) @ 70C, but turns it up to 11 when you max it out at 3750mA. 10992lm!!!!!!! And that's just the 4000K neutral white. The cool white version (5600K) is 8800lm at 2800mA, and 12320 at 3750mA. Link to comment
jedimasterben Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 I'm still looking for an excuse to use this beastie: http://www.newark.com/bridgelux/bxra-40e7500-j-00/rs-array-neutral-white-7500lm/dp/73T6210?Ntt=BXRA-40E7500-J-00 7850lm at the test current of 2800mA (~85W) @ 70C, but turns it up to 11 when you max it out at 3750mA. 10992lm!!!!!!! And that's just the 4000K neutral white. The cool white version (5600K) is 8800lm at 2800mA, and 12320 at 3750mA. /shits pants Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Any there's optics from 20-70 degrees for it. Now that the royal blue Luxeon M is starting to ship, there is finally a practical blue LED to pair with it. That was my big hold up before. Using XP-Es or Rebel ES LEDs wasn't really practical for the shear number required to balance it out. Link to comment
evilc66 Posted March 22, 2013 Share Posted March 22, 2013 Aaaaaand.... I just found a heatsink that I want to use. Looks like I may have a new project Ecoxotic may have their "Cannon". I'll have a howitzer MWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!! Keep in mind that I will have absolutely no use for something like this (I have no tanks taller than 20"), but it will be fun to see what melts under it, and how far away I need to be to stop maxing out the PAR meter I'll stop hijacking now, but I'll post if I end up pulling the trigger. Link to comment
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