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Supermarvin's PicO III


supermarvin76

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It is here!!!! It is here!!! I'll post pics later.

 

But, right off the bat I'm thinking about removing the middle media rack and using that space for cheato obviously, but also stuffing a Innovative Marine minimax reactor in there instead. Thoughts?

Are you going to run any other chemical/mechanical filtration? Purigen or CPE? How many shelves are on the media rack?

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supermarvin76

Are you going to run any other chemical/mechanical filtration? Purigen or CPE? How many shelves are on the media rack?

 

There are a total of 3 shelves.

 

I would run either carbon or GFO in that reactor. Maybe, I will get two reactors, because after all, it would be just a little more.

 

Now onto this light... I can't believe I have the AI Sol Nano mounted correctly to the bracket. The bolts seem loose, and they are very visible still. I can actualy slide the unit back and forth very easily. I would have presumed there would be mounting instructions.

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FishBrawler

It is here!!!! It is here!!! I'll post pics later.

 

But, right off the bat I'm thinking about removing the middle media rack and using that space for cheato obviously, but also stuffing a Innovative Marine minimax reactor in there instead. Thoughts?

So cheato and the reactor at the same time?
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supermarvin76

So cheato and the reactor at the same time?

 

 

Perhaps. I don't know though. I think it might get sucked into the pump.

 

 

RIght now I am trying to figure out this water level. It is 1 1/2 inches from the rim. However, it looks like if I fill it anymore, it will overflow the last baffle hence bypassing it all together.

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Yeah I used emt (electrical conduit) from Home Depot and bent and painted it to make my mount for the light. Loos pretty good.

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supermarvin76

You all are a bunch of pic junkies.... HERE!!!

 

From the UPS guy.

 

IMG_0241_zps11133d48.jpg

 

 

There was a lot of paper in there. I couldn't do a whole unboxing because my wife had to get out the door pretty quick to get to work, and the kids were running around like crazy, but this is what was inside that big box

 

IMG_0248_zps01158fc8.jpg

 

 

Unwrapping:

 

IMG_0249_zps2ce12518.jpg

 

 

On the stand

 

IMG_0255_zps0a584cf3.jpg

 

 

A bit out of order, but this was while unpacking it

 

IMG_0251_zpsbf63a750.jpg

 

 

Water and light!

 

IMG_0274_zps03b86d32.jpg

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supermarvin76

IMG_0287_zpsfa090a0c.jpg

 

IMG_0283_zps62852dfa.jpg

 

 

IMG_0281_zpsfe83965a.jpg

 

 

And the MP 10... I hate the wire going up, but reading the instructions makes it sound like if you even touch this thing it might break; so I thought I had better do what it says. I can probably get used to the wire going up fairly easily since it will actually be perfectly out of the way when I sit in my chair. What I really, really don't like though is seeing the little sticky white square when viewing the tank from the other side though. Something must be done about that. Suggestions?

 

IMG_0277_zps6b123b1b.jpg

 

 

When will all these bubbles go away!?!?

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If you plan on 2 reactors, get 2 reactors, not a dual one because both medias require different flow amounts.

 

As far as the light, ditch the included bracket. I put mine on the bracket to test it out and I felt like it was going to fall into the tank! Let me show you how to hang it. ;)

 

The bubbles won't go away. Stick your hand in the tank and wipe them off the glass. They won't come back.

 

How do you plan to run that Tunze skimmer with the cover on the back of your return chambers? I specifically choose no skimmer on my build because I want a clean and sexy look, not a skimmer bottle sticking out the top. I suppose you could have requested that he design the cover to fit the Tunze. When it comes time to adjust it, let me help you with the airline mod. I was ignorant to it for the longest time until I finally found the light and made the change and haven't looked back.

 

What kind of return pump do you have? Is it the stock Rio that Pico uses? How do you like the flow? I'm assuming you don't think it is enough flow, hence the MP10.

 

As far as water level, there should be an adjustable baffle that allows you to change the height in the rear chamber. So you can keep filling up the display and just raise the baffle.

 

Are you manually topping off?

 

Anything else I can help you with?

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supermarvin76

dremel.jpg

 

Actually the cover my my filter section is in about 3 separate pieces. I don't know if he did that because I bought the skimmer from him at the same time or what, but it's kinda cool. The problem is, as ridiculous as this sounds, is that I can not figure out how to put those 3 pieces back on after I've taken them off!

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supermarvin76

If you plan on 2 reactors, get 2 reactors, not a dual one because both medias require different flow amounts.

 

As far as the light, ditch the included bracket. I put mine on the bracket to test it out and I felt like it was going to fall into the tank! Let me show you how to hang it. ;)

 

The bubbles won't go away. Stick your hand in the tank and wipe them off the glass. They won't come back.

 

How do you plan to run that Tunze skimmer with the cover on the back of your return chambers? I specifically choose no skimmer on my build because I want a clean and sexy look, not a skimmer bottle sticking out the top. I suppose you could have requested that he design the cover to fit the Tunze. When it comes time to adjust it, let me help you with the airline mod. I was ignorant to it for the longest time until I finally found the light and made the change and haven't looked back.

 

What kind of return pump do you have? Is it the stock Rio that Pico uses? How do you like the flow? I'm assuming you don't think it is enough flow, hence the MP10.

 

As far as water level, there should be an adjustable baffle that allows you to change the height in the rear chamber. So you can keep filling up the display and just raise the baffle.

 

Are you manually topping off?

 

Anything else I can help you with?

 

 

Sweet beans!!

 

I want to ditch this light bracket. It sucks! I don’t know I could convince my wife to hang it though. It’s right in the middle of the front room.

 

While I would love a clean look with no bottle sticking out the top, what I really love is a clean tank, and the benefits I believe a skimmer brings to the table. My cover is actually in 3 separate pieces. As soon as I figure out how to put them back on, the other two sections will go on.

 

I would welcome help with the skimmer mod! I would like to do this before putting the skimmer in the first time. As of right now, the bottom “plate” of the skimmer is off, and I can’t figure out how to put it back on. (I’m starting to see a scary trend here of not being able to figure stuff out....)

 

My return pump is a Rio 800.

I have since found the adjustable baffle - much to the credit of tristanschlueter. I have adjusted the water level, adding about another inch to the display. This is much better. However, I believe this adjustable baffle is actually part of the media rack, so that pretty much nixes my thought of removing the media rack and replacing it with a MiniMax reactor.

 

Right now I am manually topping off. Sorta. I do however have a Tunze Osmolator Nano I will be setting up in due time.

 

Anything else you can help with? You bet! You could buy a print from me, or schedule your Spring portrait session (http://www.bpatrickphotography.com/) to help me pay for this tank. (See how I worked that plug in there? I’m a marketing genius!)

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supermarvin76

I think I need help! I've already sent an email to Chris, but the wait is killing me!!

 

 

I am almost in panic mode and I don't know what is going on. I have been having a little difficulties with my water level and then early this morning I thought I had it figured out.

 

However, since then the level in my display has dropped about 1/2". I am fairly confident there are no external leaks, however I am wondering about an internal leak, specifically with the seal at the bottom middle of the false wall. If I hold a light to the widow for the fuge light, and look through the display, I can see light along the bottom seem.

 

The real problem I think I have though is I don't think there is flow through all the chambers. The very first baffle, (the one with the adjustment on it) has BARELY a trickle going over it. And I mean barley. I hope I am missing something you can enlighten me to, or I wonder if there is a leak at the bottom there.

 

 

Here is a link to my video better describing it:

http://s1338.photobucket.com/user/supermarvin76/media/noflowbaffle_zps95c05b7a.mp4.html

 

And a link showing I really need help. Should the water level raise all the way over this baffle regardless of it's postion?

http://s1338.photobucket.com/user/supermarvin76/media/BaffleII_zps6802e030.mp4.html

 

 

I will be clicking refresh until I get this figured out!

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PicO Aquariums

Email sent

 

Where did your Bio baffle go?

There should be a slide baffle with a lip at the top that drops water out and onto the top of chamber 2 where your floss/filtration pad goes.

 

8553714114_44be50cf32_z.jpg

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Can't get the video to work, in the pics just as Chris said I am not seeing the bio baffle. That is the piece I was talking about that will change the display water height.

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PicO Aquariums

Actually the cover my my filter section is in about 3 separate pieces. I don't know if he did that because I bought the skimmer from him at the same time or what, but it's kinda cool. The problem is, as ridiculous as this sounds, is that I can not figure out how to put those 3 pieces back on after I've taken them off!

 

My covers all come with reliefs cut in them that can be cut with a utility knife and removed if needed.

each chamber can be cut off to expose that section seperate of the others.

The center chamber at the back of the tank and the front wall have a notch for the AI Nano or Kessil mount.

The Ai Nano can be mounted to the wall and the Kessil goose neck can be mounted to the back of the tank.

If a skimmer or light is purchased from me i remove the punch out for you but they can be removed by the end user later also.

They are not meant to be re attached once removed.

 

8552611221_258c0714b2.jpg

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PicO Aquariums

Punching out for the evening so to speak. Follow what I detailed out in the email and I will be back at it here in 6 hours if that does not fix it. -_--_-

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supermarvin76

Hopefully those links work now. I think I had to change the privacy setting at photobucket.

 

Anyhow, forget those videos anyhow. Here is the one that matters: http://s1338.photobucket.com/user/supermarvin76/media/biobaffle_zps1ad264dd.mp4.html

 

And I must give a big ole thanks to Chris from PicO Aquariums. He had responded to my email with an hour and we traded numerous emails back and forth with him offering lots of advice on solving this. I have my water level marked now, and everything looks to be ok. The problem was (knock on wood) that I didn't have that bio baffle installed! I thought that was part of the cover for the filtration compartment. It's not! Apparently it's pretty important! You can bet I'll be up and checking it first thing in the morning though!

 

Thanks Chris!!

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Get that skimmer in there, as well as the ATO and post some pics! As for the skimmer, you have to make sure that you reinstall the pump the proper way. The outlet needs to go up inside the baffle with the hole in it, not directly pointing up at the cup. The key to the mod is using the proper airline and a good valve or the mod is useless. In my experience, I've tried 2 different types of airline tubing w/o success. Finally, I used a more rigid tube that came with my RODI unit that had a very, slightly larger diameter. Think about it this way... If you don't have enough airflow your not getting bubbles! You can experiment by blowing air into the tube or connecting it to an air pump.

 

Then it's all about using a good valve. After all, isn't one of the purposes to more precisely control the amount of bubbles? After researching this mod, I found another user using the following valve so I bought it on Amazon. It is extremely precise for control and is dead silent.

valve_zps0676a038.jpg

 

Some more notes: Water level is extremely important with an internal skimmer. If you don't maintain your water level at the EXACT consistent level then it will change how your skimmer performs. Also if your water level gets too high (such as sticking your hand in your tank) you will suck water down into your air tubing and stop our bubbles, but this problem goes away if you mod your skimmer. Also note that your skimmer should be mounted so that the water level is about 1/4" BELOW the water level line indicated on the side of the skimmer. The line would indicate the maximum level the water should ever be - as in not to exceed. And finally, don't dose Ca or Alk anywhere near your skimmer. You will build up hardness on the clear elbow connected to the venturi which will reduce the amount of air that can travel through it, hence less bubbles.

 

Here is a link to my mod experience. And you can see the rest on the next post here.

 

The flash makes my tank look so dirty! It has since been cleaned up as this is an old pic. NOTE: This is not a PicO, this is the Aquafuge 2 HOB on my Aquapod. I will say this that after I completed the mod and dialed it in where I want I have never had to adjust it again.

20130223_211103_zps9f4a9381.jpg

 

As for flow, you purchased one of PicO's product tanks from their website, not a custom tank so I would be extremely surprised if you have a chamber not getting proper flow. I am sure this is a tried and true method that Chris uses.

 

Also, it's great that Chris designs with consideration for the individual user. That being said, the buyer should have a clear conversation with PicO Aquariums about how they intend on using the tank, as well as any upgrades or accessories they plan in the future. This will make sure that Chris designs your tank to accommodate the items.

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