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Coralife Biocube 29G - Steve's Leds Upgrade Diy Thread - Pics!


jpc763

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JPC763, Thanks all your helpful info. I just received the same setup and I'm having some problems. Others I only figured out from your hints here. A couple quick questions....How long is the power cord on your moonlights? Mine is too short to reach my stand and is different then the one on Steve's website. Also the power cord for the LEDS is too large to fit through the same holes in the canopy. How did you get yours to fit through? Thanks --Bill

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gulfsurfer101

I had a question regarding the drivers. Do you need a controller to operate them or do you just run a string of leds to it, wire your pot in and just tie in your power cord and be able to control them. The whole digital label caused me concern when attempting my diy project since I don't have a digital controller. I love the idea of using the dim4 and running rb/nw/tv's/dr each on their own channel.

 

Your tank looks so much better and your coral looks like it's digging the new lighting as well.

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JPC763, Thanks all your helpful info. I just received the same setup and I'm having some problems. Others I only figured out from your hints here. A couple quick questions....How long is the power cord on your moonlights? Mine is too short to reach my stand and is different then the one on Steve's website. Also the power cord for the LEDS is too large to fit through the same holes in the canopy. How did you get yours to fit through? Thanks --Bill

 

 

I'm not entirely sure of the question. What I think you asked was how did I run the cable. There is a picture above but I ran it though the old hole.

 

There is a small rubber gromit that you put on the cords that fits inside the hole.

 

Note: This is the Coralife version. I don't know about the Oceanic version.

 

I had a question regarding the drivers. Do you need a controller to operate them or do you just run a string of leds to it, wire your pot in and just tie in your power cord and be able to control them. The whole digital label caused me concern when attempting my diy project since I don't have a digital controller. I love the idea of using the dim4 and running rb/nw/tv's/dr each on their own channel.

 

Your tank looks so much better and your coral looks like it's digging the new lighting as well.

You do not need a controller. You can use a simple timer if you want.
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gulfsurfer101

Thanks so much. I was afraid to buy them and not be able to use them. They should work perfect for my next diy project.

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JPC763, Thanks all your helpful info. I just received the same setup and I'm having some problems. Others I only figured out from your hints here. A couple quick questions....How long is the power cord on your moonlights? Mine is too short to reach my stand and is different then the one on Steve's website. Also the power cord for the LEDS is too large to fit through the same holes in the canopy. How did you get yours to fit through? Thanks --Bill

 

 

 

Did you purchase the setup 95% completed? We installed ours last weekend, 95% completed. The power cord for our LEDs were too wide for the existing holes, so we made the hole a little bigger to fit it through.

 

JCP763, thank you for this thread. I remembered reading that the holes on the heatsink wouldn't line up; we ended up grinding down the two taller posts in the middle just enough to make it (nearly) level with the other two posts, and it made it easier to install.

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Wow tank looks good

Thanks! I am very happy with it. I am a bit surprised as my Acan and my Lobophyllia are both not liking the new lights. Every other coral seems happy.

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Did you look at the jbj nano cubes before you went with the bio? About to buy but not sure if I should get the nano or bio

I did and settled on the Biocube mainly because I could get a new one on sale and spend the extra cash on upgrades. Other than that they were pretty equal.

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the second set of pics look better with the white turned up, can we get some more pics (especially the comparison to PC) that arnt blurry now that you have fine tuned the ratio? i agree that the first set of pics are too blue!! lookin good!

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First, thanks for the advice. Based on it and this thread, I am zeroing in.

 

Several questions JVC...

 

I noticed that in one pic, it looked like you had a PC fan atop your hood, resting on a plastic grid, with your rear door propped open. Is this permanent and necessary? It seems like it takes away from the finished look of the hood.

 

Also, I notice that your setup looks different from the one found on Steve's website, in that you have a solid rectangular heat sync, and the kit offered on his site is more custom looking, designed to go around existing moonlights perhaps. Yes? Is there a difference?

 

Given the setup that was sent, would it be viable to put the potents on the back instead of at the top?

 

Thanks!

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First, thanks for the advice. Based on it and this thread, I am zeroing in.

 

Several questions JVC...

 

I noticed that in one pic, it looked like you had a PC fan atop your hood, resting on a plastic grid, with your rear door propped open. Is this permanent and necessary? It seems like it takes away from the finished look of the hood.

 

Also, I notice that your setup looks different from the one found on Steve's website, in that you have a solid rectangular heat sync, and the kit offered on his site is more custom looking, designed to go around existing moonlights perhaps. Yes? Is there a difference?

 

Given the setup that was sent, would it be viable to put the potents on the back instead of at the top?

 

Thanks!

First, I believe that Steve's has changed his heatsink design to the one I have for both Biocube models. You will have a hard time keeping your moonlights. I recommend the moonlight kit on Steve's site for 24.99.

 

The PC fan on the plastic grid (egg crate) was required when I was running the stock lighting. It is set to go on when the temp hits 81*. It has not turned on since I installed the LEDs so I will be removing it.

 

You will get enough wire to mount the potentiometers anywhere. I have seen others mount them completely outside the hood in a little project box.

 

Hope this helps.

 

John.

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Build threads like this are invaluable for those of us desigining our own projects. Thanks for posting.

 

I have a question about optimal emitter spacing on nanocube tanks. I'm designing a suspended full-spectrum fixture for my Solana cube, which is essentially the same dimensions as your 29 biocube. It's a 20" glass cube, with an integral back sump that shortens the front-back dimension to about 15.5". Without the limitations imposed by having to retrofit an existing hood, would it be preferable to keep the emitters on central lateral runs (which is easier from a heat sink and wiring perspective), or to space them more evenly across the tank? I'll be using a standard full spectrum emitter mix of RB/RB/NW Tristars, OCW Tristars, and TV singles. I was planning a central OCW cluster, surrounded by the B/W and TV emitters (either clustered or evenly spaced), as recommended in this thread: http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/311998-full-spectrum-led-layouts/

 

But I don't know what the optimum spacing would be relative to the tank sides, or even if it matters much over these small dimensions. Any advice on this topic would be welcome.

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the second set of pics look better with the white turned up, can we get some more pics (especially the comparison to PC) that arnt blurry now that you have fine tuned the ratio? i agree that the first set of pics are too blue!! lookin good!

OK, here ya go.

 

Before:

IMG_4715.jpg

 

After:

IMG_4784.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

It looks fantastic! A couple of questions since I'm new to the nano world. The night lights, are they something you added? Did they come with Steve's kit or did you get them elsewhere.

Also the moonlighting kit, that can modify the LEDs through their dimmer to give it a gradual effect? Or is it for the night lights?

 

Thanks again for all your posts!!

 

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It looks fantastic! A couple of questions since I'm new to the nano world. The night lights, are they something you added? Did they come with Steve's kit or did you get them elsewhere. Also the moonlighting kit, that can modify the LEDs through their dimmer to give it a gradual effect? Or is it for the night lights? Thanks again for all your posts!!

Well I will try to answer your questions...

 

I bought the LED nightlightes at the same time as my upgrade. $25 included the cut to length strip, power supply and remote. The remote for the nightlights changes color and dims them.

 

The two dimmers on top of the tank dim the main LEDs. One dims the all blue arrays (2 of them, 14 LEDs) and the other dims the white/blue/cool blue arrays (2 of them, 14 LEDs).

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  • 2 weeks later...
BioNanoreefer

hey i looked over your tank set up and would you share how many hours a day you have the lights on. what chemicals you add and the food. I also have a biocube and i bought steve's led with the 10 / 18 set up as it advertised and the led strip. yet i am not getting much growth or anything.
How often do you do a water change, clean up the tank and maintanace.

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hey i looked over your tank set up and would you share how many hours a day you have the lights on. what chemicals you add and the food. I also have a biocube and i bought steve's led with the 10 / 18 set up as it advertised and the led strip. yet i am not getting much growth or anything.

How often do you do a water change, clean up the tank and maintanace.

 

 

Light is only one small portion of the equation for growth and coloration. If your water parameters aren't correct no amount of light will cause the coral to grow. So many people get so caught up in the "light" aspect and over look how important it is to stay on top of your water chemistry along with long-term stability.

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BioNanoreefer

Which is why i am wondering what chemicals are added. i add plenty of mine and the water is always good when i check it.I want to compare to see what works best.

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