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My 20-Gallon (Tall) Softie/lps Nano-Reef!


Fishgirl2393

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LarryMoeCurly

In general tuning white equals bleaching equals too much light. I don't know what affect aiptasia has on mushrooms though. The first few pages of my tank thread show what too much light can do to mushrooms.

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LarryMoeCurly

No. They tuned white and melted away. Looking back, I don't actually remember taking any action to save them though. I think moving your's down is good. If they are bleaching, that is the remedy.

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If they have signs of white on the edges, that means light over exposure. Mushrooms in general are low light corals. T5 hos are still lots of light for most of them. I would not only move them down, but actually try to put them in a low light area, almost shaded. They should recover, mushrooms are tough and rebound quick. If you are worried about them being at too low light, don't be, they extend out until they find light or even detach themselves and "roll around" attaching to a new spot of their taste. If I were you, would act quick on this. Let us know how they recover

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Fishgirl2393

Thanks! I had placed them high (close to the top of my rockwork) but I've moved them down and will move them to a shady spot later today. The lights were also staying on (I had a tendency to leave them on WAY past the timer setting) from 9:00AM-11:00PM so I quit that. I changed my timer so I will see the tank when I'm home but the lights will not come on so early or stay on so long. Thanks for the help guys! I really appreciate it! :) Pictures coming soon!

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Fishgirl2393

OK. I was looking back and I have a question. The shrooms were in the same spot before for several months (3+) and never had this happen. Could it be that the lights were left on too much? Or is it likely not the lights but instead the nitrates of 40ppm? The shrooms are still low in the tank (since i moved them) but I just wondered.

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Fishgirl2393

New test results...

SG: 1.024

pH: 7.9 (I would like it to be slightly higher)

Ammonia: 0

Nitrite: 0

Nitrate: 7ppm (between 5ppm and 10ppm but closer to 5ppm so I'm saying 7ppm ;))

 

Just started using a phosphate removing pad (a cut to fit one) so we'll see how that works. Still have cyano but it is not as bad as it was. Would raising the pH help (I've heard it does with some types of algae)? Mushrooms still slightly bleached. Probably going to slowly move them back up in the tank because the lights are now only on for 8-9 hours (they were accidentally staying on for 13-14 hours not long ago!).

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Fishgirl2393

OK, so I still have cyano. Not as bad as it has been in the past but still there. My LFS owner told everyone at the last reef club meeting that he used ChemiClean (exactly by the directions) not once but twice and the stuff died and came back in about a week to a week and a half. The second time, some of his huge SPS colonies that he grew himself (from much smaller colonies) had massive die off so I really don't think that is the answer to my problems with this mess. Does anyone have any other suggestions? My nitrates are low enough that it should not be growing. My phosphates are probably a LITTLE bit high but they've never been really high when this was in the tank. This stuff is really discouraging me. :( If I didn't see what it looked and acted (how it grows) like, I would be inclined to say it was not cyano but something else (the way it seems to be growing despite my efforts to get rid of nutrients makes it seem almost like dinoflagellates). The clownfish still has ich but it seems to have fewer and fewer spots. Still eating and active.

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LarryMoeCurly

I look foreward to some pictures.

 

What say you regarding pictures?

Fear not the mockery that could ensue; you have not let that stop you before.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Fishgirl2393

OK. I've suspected this for a while but I just confirmed. My pH is having a crazy swing during the day. In the morning (before lights come on) the pH was 7.5-7.6ish. Tonight (just before the lights went off) the pH was 7.9. I know that the cyano may be part of the reason (photosynthesis) but I also know I need to get it stable. I know just adding a pH buffer won't help. So, now I'm thinking a refugium with reverse light cycle. Would that help? Can I use a low wattage LED (from Lowes or Walmart) for the tank instead of another bulb? Also thinking about adding more water flow to the tank. Doing a water change tomorrow so I'll try to post a picture Sunday or Monday. Any advice would be helpful! Thanks.

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Fishgirl2393

So, the water change is going to occur tomorrow (afternoon probably) so the picture will not be posted till afterwards. If anyone has suggestions for stabilizing (and raising) the pH, that would be great! Thanks.

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Fishgirl2393

Well, the water change WILL happen today (got busy yesterday). Would adding a powerhead help with my low pH, cyano, etc? I currently have two power filters (box says 100GPH for one and 80GPH for the other but with media and the fact that they are NOT new, it is much lower I'm sure) and a Koralia 425. I'm thinking about getting a Marineland MaxiJet 400PRO. What do you guys think? Too much flow (in circulation mode of course) or OK? The tank is softies and LPS.

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LarryMoeCurly

A powerhead would not have a significant affect on pH as far as I am aware (unless it really disturbed the water surface and impacted the amount of carbon dioxide in the water). A powerhead may be helpful in battling the cyano though; IME, cyano usually occurs in dead spots with little flow. Of course, you must first deal with the root cause (high nitrates, phosphates, etc.). I am not familiar with the powerhead you mentioned.

Most people suggest anywhere between 20-40x tank turnover in an hour (although at the higher end you may get sand stroms and the like.100+80+425+(110 to 500)= 715 to 1105 = 35x to 55x. That is assuming all are pumping as advertised, which, as you say, is not likely. IMO ditch one of the powerfilters and replace it with a powerhead.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Fishgirl2393

The water change that I posted about a few weeks ago happened and then today, I did a 13 gallon water change (most of the tank water considering rock/sand displacement). The aquascape changed a bit because I accidentally knocked it over (corals were not in the tank but in a small container with water from the tank) so I had to redo it. It (in my opinion) looks somewhat better than before though it may change a bit in the next few days. We'll see. But anyway, will test nitrates tomorrow to see what the levels are. With detritus removal from powerfilter (it accumulated a LOT of gunk in the bottom), the tank has not been accumulating nitrates so fast.

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A fuge will help with the pH swings as would adding a fan, like the zoomed one that hangs on the back to help with CO2 dispersion. If you have a lid profit open a little. I got my pH from 7.7 to 8.05 by propping the lid and adding more macros. The macros will fight your nutrient and cyano problems too.

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Fishgirl2393

Thanks! My pH is more stable now. Testing today to see what level is at. I think really high nitrates were causing pH to be low and yes, I will probably add a fan (to cool the T5HO lights and make bulbs last a little longer). I have chaeto in my filter but am trying to find a way to light it.

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Fishgirl2393

I'm just posting what I saw. I'm not saying nitrate in particular has to do with pH but dirty water has been shown time and time again to lower buffering capacity ("old tank syndrome") which is what I think happened.

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Fishgirl2393

Here are the results of the water test (I checked pH on two different kits two different times and you can see why below)

Nitrates: 15-20ppm (too high still but lower than they were)

pH: 7.4-7.5!

BAD pH LEVEL! I need ideas about why it is so low. I'm testing a bit of tank water with an airstone in it bubbling away to see if extra oxygen exchange would help but I don't get it. I used Tetra Marine Salt (new to the US) and the salinity is about 1.024-1.025 (between them) so it's OK. I'm to the point of starting over but I hate to do it because it would mean buying new rock and substrate and that can be expensive. PLEASE HELP!

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jedimasterben

If you're really that worried about your pH (which is stupid), you need to purchase a quality pH probe and calibrate it to get any sort of accurate reading. A pH of even 7.8 is more than fine for your tank to run 24/7, and your tank is most likely that r higher.

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Fishgirl2393

OK, so I know what has to be done to fix the problems (got advice from some members on here) and I am working on that. I'm not getting a fish quite yet but I want to plan what I will get. I'm not sure I want clowns (still up on the ledge about that but don't THINK I do). I really like Royal Grammas because of their bright colors so I think I want one of those (I've had one before) but I don't know about other fish. I've looked at numerous. Here are some of the ones I've looked at (I would NOT add all, this is just some I've considered)...

Royal Gramma

Lawnmower blenny

Firefish

Six-line wrasse

Green mandarin (I know they can be difficult to feed but my LFS can get frozen trained ones IF I decided to go with that)

I've also considered clowns as well as spotted/pajama cardinalfish or Kaudern's Cardinal.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

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Fishgirl2393

I need opinions for stocking if someone could help. Like I said, I'm not adding anything right away but I'm starting to think about what I want to add.

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