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My 20-Gallon (Tall) Softie/lps Nano-Reef!


Fishgirl2393

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This is a page for my 20-gallon tall nano-reef aquarium.
Aquarium: 20-gallon tall aquarium (24"L x 12"W x 16"H)
Filters: 2 Aqua-Tech 5-15 HOB filter (100GPH) w/phosphate pad in one and AquaVitro Purfiltrum in the other.
Powerheads: 2 Koralia Nano 425 powerheads.
Protein Skimmer: Lee's Counter Current Protein Skimmer (medium) run w/Aqua-Tech 20-60 air pump (outside). This little skimmer does an excellent job of removing junk from my tank (sometimes even thick skimmate is produced) and after tuning, works great!
Lights: Current USA Orbit Marine LED 24-36"
Heater: Tetra 10-20 gallon heater
Corals: green mushrooms, blue mushrooms, purple mushroom, red mushrooms, kenya trees, clove polyps, zoas, acan (rainbow), gorgonia, hammer, micromussa.
Inverts: 3 blue legged hermit crabs, astrea snails, cerith snails, nerite snails, brittlestars, keyhole limpets (a safe variety that just hitchhiked in on something).
Fish: Royal Gramma (Calypso), Starry Blenny (van Gogh)
Additives: Dr. Tim's EcoBalance weekly, 2mL H2O2 daily/every other day.
Food: Ocean Nutrition Prime Reef (frozen), Omega One Super Color Flakes.
Water Changes: ~2-gallons every week/every two weeks.
Nitrates stay low (<5ppm), alk is 7.5-8.5dKH, calcium is around 440ppm, phosphate reads near 0 with a Salifert kit.

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Swinging by the LFS today and will probably get them to run some tests to double check levels and see where my alk is. Tank looks somewhat better but there is still a great deal of cyano on the rocks.

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What brand bulbs are you using for the Light Fixture? If they are old or cheapo bulbs they could really enhance red cyano.

 

Also what substrate are you using? I had bad Cyano in my 20G tall when I was using natures ocean sand.

 

Good luck!

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So that I can have more filter material. I don't have a sump at all so the HOB are my way of having Chemi-Pure Elite or Purigen/SeaGel, carbon, etc. Would the sand be causing this or is it likely something else?

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how much are you feeding and how many times a week? whats the quality of RO/DI water you're using to make salt and for top off? and how long has the tank been up? could be part of cycling as well.

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This tank is not new (over a year old). I feed every 2 days just a few small flakes and make sure none is wasted. The water is bottled Distilled water from Walmart. I just picked up a couple of Mexican turbo snails. The test at the LFS had these results...

Nitrate: Below 5ppm

Alkalinity: I think 220ppm

Phosphate: Undetectable

Calcium: 520ppm

PH: 8.0

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I definitely Agree with TuLIPgirl, The Odysea bulbs are known to have a shorter life span. This could cause the shift in light spectrum output and then cynao. I have ATI Bulbs on my 20H a Coral Plus and an Aquablue Special and am very happy.

 

I recently had the same issue, and thought that it was related to a snail die off from Hurricane Sandy. My reef was powerless for 48 hours.

 

I purchased new bulbs ( they were due for replacement) and added cheato into the display, within 1 week of doing this 90% of the Cyano has been eliminated. I would suggest that you try this first.

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Fishgirl2393

I would be inclined to believe the bulbs were the issue except the LFS owner is having the exact same issue and he uses LED lights. He also can't figure out why he has this stuff because his water quality is good. Is it possible that the water I'm using (distilled) has silicates in it or something? The reason I ask is because they are plastic jugs from Walmart (their brand of distilled water). I really want to fix this without chemicals because while I have read that Chemi-Clean works, I've also read that if there IS some issue with water, it will come right back! Suggestions please!

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Based on your description, it's cyano. I just had this problem. Big time. Chemiclean treatment didn't fix it - it helped, but I still had lawns of it after 3 treatments in a row and physical removal. My test kit kept telling me I had no phosphates, but that could have been because the test kit was crap, or the cyano was using it enough to reduce the ability of the kit to detect it.

 

Here's what I did after the 3 treatments:

I did a major water change - like 30%, then added brand new chemi-pure elite, purigen and phosguard to my tank and kept the lights off - they were off for 10 days (I was away for the Holiday). My corals didn't love it, but they survived (my zoas even grew a new polyp) and so far the cyano is gone.

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Fishgirl2393

OK, thanks for the info. I'm going to see if a cleaning of the rocks (where the majority of the stuff is) and sand bed with a vacuum. Will see if getting detritus out helps. I really want this stuff to go away!

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That's what I did for physical removal, but make sure to do a major water change with RO/DI water. Then hit it heavy with the phosguard, the purigen and chemi-pure elite. I suppose it doesn't have to be those three specifically, just something that fills those particular roles.

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jedimasterben

Put in a phosphate remover. Siphon out as much of the bacteria as you can. Change phosphate remover daily for a week, then change it every few days. Watch the cyano die out.

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Fishgirl2393

OK, I cleaned the rocks and top layers of substrate. There is phosphate remover (Chemi-Pure Elite) in the tank. I also moved the powerhead down in the tank so it blows over the rocks better than before.

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Nano sapiens

I have a small patch of this stuff that only grows where some stray rays of sunlight hit it from a window (rest of the tank is clean). Lighting spectrum plays a big part, so it's wise to change out bulbs before spectrum shifts happen.

 

Nutrient levels are the other influencing factor. More nutrients = more Cyano.

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Fishgirl2393

Thanks. I guess it is possible that window lighting is a factor but I'm not sure. There are blinds on all the windows and 90% of the time, they are closed. The tank is about 6-7 feet away from the closest window. Not sure what I could do if it IS windows though because moving the tank is not fun. Well, suggestions?

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Nano sapiens

Thanks. I guess it is possible that window lighting is a factor but I'm not sure. There are blinds on all the windows and 90% of the time, they are closed. The tank is about 6-7 feet away from the closest window. Not sure what I could do if it IS windows though because moving the tank is not fun. Well, suggestions?

 

I wouldn't worry about your window lighting. Concentrate on providing good quality artificial light and especially, reducing nutrients.

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I'm usually not a fan of cross posting or external links but I think that in this particular case this post for how someone successfully treated cyano will be a way to fix your problems. I take no credit for the content of this post, and am simply hoping to share information that may help you.

 

Source: "http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:2DPaBPDc6SMJ:www.thereeftank.com/forums/f184/help-help-cyanobacteria-outbreak-is-ruining-my-tank-194179.html+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us"

 

To the Community and future information seekers,

I've finally managed to completely eradicate my Red Algae (aka Cyanobacteria) infestation.

In the process from start to finish, i've learned a lot in my battle and wanted to let those interested in eradicating this pest for good on some steps i've learned that will help get its coat and hat and push it out the door.

Most of this isn't new, and the information is out there but as a whole its rather difficult to find. Hopefully this will narrow it down for you.




Red Cyanobacteria, also known as Red Algae, Hair Algae, or "Tentacle" Algae, is a bacteria that, if left uncheck, can grow rapidly in a Tank environment and quickly consume all plant and organism life leading to a Tank crash. This is of course a extreme scenario, as in my case, but to most it can simply be very unpleasant to the eye.

Unfortunately for the common aquareist, there are many factors that could be contributing to a large Red Algae bloom. These factors can be High Phosphates in your water, unknown minerals in your city water, light spectrum, light hours, and decaying matter such as feces or carcasses.

This is a lot to consider and can quickly become overwhelming when trying to discover the leading cause of the Red Algae bloom. It also can take a long time for inexperienced and even moderate aquariests to discover the leading issue, but remember, even the most experienced aquariests have trouble with Red Algae. The fact is that although it has been studied a lot, there are so many different variables that can cause Red Algae that it can be very difficult to identify the root cause of the problem. In my battle with Red Algae, i've found that a blanket treatment of all causes is the best solution. It can be more expensive, but it will allow you to cover all possible causes of Red Algae and will help rid it of your system.

Although blanket treatments do work, they also don't help identify the root problem, so if you are trying to discover the exact cause of the Red Algae, I do not recommend this method. However, if you just want it gone, please continue to read my steps to eradication.

1. Buy a book on Cyanobacteria.

Before you can eradicate something, you must understand what it is, what it needs, and what can harm it. Any aquariest worth his salt should know that this hobby is about research and understanding the ocean environment and its lifeforms. Cyanobacteria is no different, and you should familiarize yourself with it. Cyanobacteria isn't necessarily "Bad" for your tank. It rapidly binds up phosphates (excellent!) but it can be very unsightly. The only time this is dangerous is when it gets out of control and starts to grow over your corals and life rock. When it grows, it creates a membrane "root" systems that can choke out anything inhabiting the rock.

Some claim that the Cyanobacteria is indeed toxic to fish. This claim does have some truth since, like macroalgae, if it dies off it rapidly releases the phosphates that were bound up in it causing the water to become toxic. However in its bound form, Cyanobacteria won't harm other inhabitants. With this in mind, get ready to do several large volumes of water changes when battling Cyanobacteria.

So let's get on with the treatment...

2. Hermit crabs!

Some species of Hermit crabs DO in fact eat Cyanobacteria. These will often be the first organisms recommended by any aquariest that has conquered a Red Algae infestation. I did not use Hermit crabs in my case though, so I cannot vouche for their success.

3. Chevron Tang!

It has been recorded that Chevron Tangs will eat Cyanobacteria. These fish are very beautiful, which is a bonus, but can be very expensive reaching upwards of $100+ for a small one! Local aquariests in my town have had remarkable success with Chevron Tangs but this is a expensive fix.

4. Sea Cucumbers!

This one I strongly don't recommend. Sea Cucumbers have, and will eat Cyanobacteria. I've even witnessed this with my own eyes in a local LFS tank. However, like any Sea Cucumber, they will also eat beneficial sand bacteria, coral algae, green algae, and even some corals. They're the garbage disposals of the sea, they get the job done, but just be forewarned that you may lose a lot of other organisms in the process. The other thing to note is that Sea Cucumbers who get harassed by other tank inhabitants will release a deadly toxin in your tank water which can lead to a tank crash.

5. Increase your water flow!

Cyanobacteria prefers to settle into and grow in low flow areas of your tank. If you are already reading this article, you probably have already noticed this. The "right" amount of flow is difficult to determine, but in my case I have a 55 gallon tank with live rock in the center. On both ends of the tank I have two Aqueon 950 powerheads (4x total) and they generated enough flow during my treatment to keep the Cyanobacteria from re-attaching while not blowing my smaller occupants around.

Having good flow during treatment is only to keep the Cyanobacteria from re-attaching itself. It's a very weakly structured organism and can break up with the slightest increase in flow rate. If you wave your hand near it in the water you'll see how easily it breaks up. As it blows off the rocks and sand, use a strainer to catch it.

6. Change your bulbs!

Most tanks that experience a rapid Red Algae growth have older bulbs or "bad" bulbs. As your bulbs age, their spectrum strength starts to change towards a more "red" spectrum if your using Halogens or T5 HO's. This spectrum is, you guessed it, where Red Algae grows best. Although the Red Algae consumes a lot of Phosphates, studies have shown that it needs a lot of light as well. This is what I mean when I spoke about the difficulty in finding the "root" cause of Red Algae growth, sometimes its more than just one variable.

7. Limit your lights!

In some cases its not the Red Spectrum that causes the Red Algae growth but over lighting your tank for extended hours. In my studies, i've found that limiting your daylight to around 5 hours greatly cut down on the Red Algae growth but allowed enough light for my corals to remain healthy.

8. Water Changes!

Water Changes are important in this treatment. If you don't have a RO/DI unit, its highly recommended to purchase one. This will also get rid of any unknown minerals in the city water that could be causing Red Algae growth. As you go through this treatment, I found that performing 20% water changes every 4 days rapidly reduced the amount of Phosphates in my system and the Red Algae started to fad quickly. Remember though that as it dies, it releases them back into the water. If these release Phosphates aren't removed by a water change, the Red Algae simply recaptures them and will grow back!

9. Decay!

Dead fish, clean up crew, and feces can play a huge part of rampant Red Algae growth. If you have a rapid growth spurt, inspect your tank for any of the previously mentioned. Protein Skimmers are great for this and you should increase the rate of the skimmer from a Dry to a more "Wet" skimming cycle to quickly purge your system. It has also been noted that sometimes a rapid growth in Red Algae means your Protein Skimmer isn't working optimally. I recommend to try all the other items first before considering replacing your Skimmer (unless its obviously not functioning as designed.)

10. Out consume the Red Algae!

Red Algae is still an Algae and consumes phosphates. One surefire way to help reduce or eradicate the pest naturally is to simply outconsume it with another species! Macro Algaes also consume phosphates and when introduced can quickly out consume any Red Algae in your tank. Just make sure to watch them as they can grow just as rapidly as Red Algae. Make sure to harvest stems and leaves of any dead or dying Macro Algaes you introduce since if left uncheck can release the bound phosphates back into the system.

11. Lights out!

The Blanket treatment isn't just a name, but also a actual treatment. After changing your bulbs, hours, lowering feeding times, water changes, getting macro algae, or even adding predators, etc. you may notice the Red Algae growth has been stumped, but the problem persists. A last natural method of eradicating the Red Algae is to perform a "blanket" treatment. Turn your lights off and completely blanket your tank so that no light can get in. Only turn your lights on for 10-20 minutes as necessary to feed your fish or corals. After 24 hours, check on the Red Algae to see how its being effected. If it still remains, continue another 24 hours. I used this process and it completely eradicated the Red Algae. However, be forewarned that many of your corals are going to be very stressed by this process and you may lose one or two but in my case, I lost a few mushrooms but the ends justified the means.

12. Chemicals!

This should always be a last restort, but, introducing a Anti-Red Bacteria chemical into your system does indeed work wonders but can also kill off beneficial bacteria. Many aquariests have voiced that this only masks the Red Algae root cause. This is true, but it also completely eradicates it of your system, meaning that it would have to be reintroduced in the future to come back. On a seperate tank from my main Display tank, I cultured Red Cyanobacteria to a "unacceptable" level. The Red Algae had almost completely covered all the glass in my test tank. After following the instructions carefully on the product "Chemiclean" within 48 hours, I didn't have a single spec of Red Algae and the chromis, snails, and peppermint shrimp in the test tank were unharmed and active as normal.

Knowing this, I would gladly introduce it into my tank in the future as it was the quickest way to get rid of the Red Algae, but again, it only covers up the root cause.

Happy Hunting!

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