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Full spectrum LED layouts


uglybuckling

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Thanks Jedimasterben, those pucks do look great, but unfortunately not for me, due to import duties and international shipping charges.

So i'll go with a diy cluster, which i'm ok with as I can source the LEDs either Cree XTE or Luxeon Rebel ES locally, here in Goa India, so how does my plan look, does it need altering?

 

As it's my first attempt with salt water, i'll be doing a mixed reef, looking to keep everything as simple as possible, my lighting budget took a hit, when I realised i'll need a battery back up, as we have frequent power outages here, along with 2-3 days a year without power for at least 9 hours. However I'm planning to do both an DIY protein skimmer and chiller unit to claw something back.....

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jedimasterben

Thanks Jedimasterben, those pucks do look great, but unfortunately not for me, due to import duties and international shipping charges.

So i'll go with a diy cluster, which i'm ok with as I can source the LEDs either Cree XTE or Luxeon Rebel ES locally, here in Goa India, so how does my plan look, does it need altering?

 

As it's my first attempt with salt water, i'll be doing a mixed reef, looking to keep everything as simple as possible, my lighting budget took a hit, when I realised i'll need a battery back up, as we have frequent power outages here, along with 2-3 days a year without power for at least 9 hours. However I'm planning to do both an DIY protein skimmer and chiller unit to claw something back.....

I gotcha now. I wasn't sure if you were in the US or not. :)

 

I would skip out on the reds. Mix in a few high CRI warm whites instead, you don't need much.

 

I would probably end up with something like the following:

9x 4000K or 5000K 80CRI

3x 2700K or 3000K 90CRI

3x Lime (if available, these will add significant visual brightness to the fixture on the white channel, or run with cyan since both are green tinted)

36x Royal blue

12x Blue

3x Cyan

 

or swap out some of the royals for violet, but IMHO violet is optional. I've seen so many fixtures with little to no violet over the years that I doubt their utility other than adding some PAR without changing how the light looks to the eye at all.

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Thanks Ben,

 

I can get these Bridgelux COBs, Very reasonably priced, I am planning on 3 clusters, how many would I need of each? One of each per cluster? I would need a dimmable driver for the warm whites I guess, if I want to run on the same channel or run separately on the Bluefish Mini. Looks like i'll need to order the Limes from Steve's, which is ok, as I'll need to order the controller and the driver board also.

 

BXRC-27G2000-C-23 bridgelux 90 CRI 2700k

BXRC-40G1000-B-23 bridgelux 80 CRI 4000k

 

Also what if I use the Luxeon K 16 up pcb's in Royal blue, 1 per cluster? Mouser has them in stock over here.

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jedimasterben

Thanks Ben,

 

I can get these Bridgelux COBs, Very reasonably priced, I am planning on 3 clusters, how many would I need of each? One of each per cluster? I would need a dimmable driver for the warm whites I guess, if I want to run on the same channel or run separately on the Bluefish Mini. Looks like i'll need to order the Limes from Steve's, which is ok, as I'll need to order the controller and the driver board also.

 

BXRC-27G2000-C-23 bridgelux 90 CRI 2700k

BXRC-40G1000-B-23 bridgelux 80 CRI 4000k

 

Also what if I use the Luxeon K 16 up pcb's in Royal blue, 1 per cluster? Mouser has them in stock over here.

Are you sure the 40G1000 model is 80CRI? The G denotes that is 90CRI, and it is a good choice. You'd only need one per cluster, and you'd only need to run them on a 350mA or 500mA driver at the most. They pump out the light like not much else. Also, you can only run one in series on an LDD, their forward voltage is too high to run more.

 

As for the Luxeon K, yes, one per cluster, and one per driver again since their forward voltage is so high. :)

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Yeah, the site had listed it with the same part no. one with 80 CRI and the other 90 CRI, I didn't want to get too excited, lol

 

Cool, I'll order those up asap, along with the Luxeon K 16 up.

 

Thanks a lot Ben, you may have saved me some dough! (maybe!)

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Ok, I have begun to order the leds, the bridgelux was ordered today, the rb's, cyan and cool blues tomorrow, rb's are luxeon rebel es, cyan epileds and cool blues cree Xpe. Will order the limes and controller when I decide on which controller to get.

My question is how many and which ldd's to get? I roughly calculated I'd need 11 in total, can I do it with 10?

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Ok, I think I understand, I need the following;

 

Power supply Meanwell NES-350-48

 

For the 6 Vero 10's (WW & NW) 350ma or 500ma=6no. (I could get 700ma drivers as long as the channels are dimmed, if using the above PSU)

For the 16 up Luxeon Rebel ES 1000ma each =3no.

For the XPE-cool blue = 1000ma 1 no.

For the Cyan & Lime, either run of the same driver/channel at 700ma or separate 700ma for the cyan and 1000 ma for the lime.

 

So that's 11 or 12 drivers and 5 or 6 channels, so I guess the Bluefish Mini would work best for this?

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jedimasterben

Ok, I think I understand, I need the following;

 

Power supply Meanwell NES-350-48

 

For the 6 Vero 10's (WW & NW) 350ma or 500ma=6no. (I could get 700ma drivers as long as the channels are dimmed, if using the above PSU)

For the 16 up Luxeon Rebel ES 1000ma each =3no.

For the XPE-cool blue = 1000ma 1 no.

For the Cyan & Lime, either run of the same driver/channel at 700ma or separate 700ma for the cyan and 1000 ma for the lime.

 

So that's 11 or 12 drivers and 5 or 6 channels, so I guess the Bluefish Mini would work best for this?

The 4000K LEDs you're getting are the 90CRI models, you don't need the warm white, so you can eliminate three drivers right there. Everything else looks good. You won't need more than 700mA for the lime and cyan.

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