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Full spectrum LED layouts


uglybuckling

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You want a 1:14 or so ratio of lumens of white to milliwatts of royal blue, minimum, for a ~12-14k look.

so 215 lumens of white per 3W blue LED, or 7x3W blue per 12W luxeon M, which is what I have in the first 2 puck design. so go with that? would that be enough even spread over the 20 long? with no optics, in a hood, maybe attach some reflective paper to the sides of the hood?

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yeah, 3000mW / 14 = 215

.: 215lumens of white per 3W blue LED

 

the 12W luxeon M is 1500 lumens / 215 = 6.9 (7) 3W blue LED

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jedimasterben

Where are you getting 3,000 milliwatts from? If your white LEDs emit a total of 1500 lumens, you need at least 21,000 milliwatts of royal blue.

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we're saying the same thing, 1500lumens * 14 = 21,000mW = 21W = 7 blue LEDs

I did the conversion the other way, 1 blue = 3W = 3,000mW /14 = 215 lumens, 1500lumens/215 lumens = 7 blue LEDs



regardless, I'm thinking 2 pucks, each puck has:

 

1- luxeon 12W neutral white

6- luxeon 3W royal blue

3- semiLED 3W dual core hyper violet

1- luxeon 3W cyan

1- luxeon 3W blue

1- luxeon 3W deep red

 

do you think two of these over a 20 (each one covering 12x13.5x12 almost cube) because 3 inches is cut off the end for overflow

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jedimasterben

I don't know where you're getting three watts from. One watt is a thousand milliwatts, and the highest-output royal blue LED is the Rebel ES royal blue at 1.5A, which outputs right around 2100mW.

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OOOOOOOKAY, theres the problem, I was just doing guestimation calculations based off the "3W" LEDs, didn't bother going in to check the actual specs. Okay, yes I understand why you weren't understanding my calculations now. So for 1 of those 1500lumen white LEDs I should have more than just 6 royal blue LEDs? can't I just turn down the white if its overpowering? since 12 is the recommended number of blue over a 20 long, I just have an overpowered white, which I can turn down?

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jedimasterben

And at 700mA (which is really where you'd want to run them at maximum over your tank size, anyway), the Luxeon M white will put out around 900 lumens or so, so you'd want a minimum of 12,600mW of royal blue. Each royal blue M puts out around 4200mW at 700mA. Use two royal blue per white and keep the whites a bit lower to keep the color temperature in line. More than likely you'll end up running the royals at around 500mA or so and the whites even less, probably around 350mA. Then add one blue for every royal blue M, and keep them at the same current, add the other colors to taste, and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. :P

 

The Luxeon M chips have four Luxeon T diodes in them run in series, so each of them is equivalent to four Luxeon T run by themselves. The Luxeon T is more efficient by a little bit than the Rebel ES series.

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so my plan of 2 pucks, all 4 channels running on constant current drivers with PWM dimming, would be sufficient?

 

channel 1- 1x luxeon M 4000k 12W

channel 2- 1x luxeon 480nm, 1x luxeon 495nm, 1x luxeon 660nm

channel 3- 6x luxeon 445nm

channel 4- 3x semiLED dual core 3W 420nm

 

does that sound like a reasonable amount of light, two of those pucks over a 27x12 inch area (12 inches deep, no optics) all of them running at 700mA with PWM dimming to adjust the temperature how I want?

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HELP!!!!

This might be out of place to post here. If it is, i apologize.

i recently joined nano-reef and I'm a newbie (6 months) to the hobby with a 14G biocube.

 

I plan on getting the JBJ RL-20 frag tank (24x20x 9) and concentrate on zoa's and soft corals. I'm having a tough time trying to decide what is the best LED combo for a frag tank that is only 9 inches deep. I've been trying to follow all you guys with all these calculations and i am totally lost.

 

Can anyone please recommend complete systems that would be appropriate for this frag tank. It seems like the more I read the more confusing it gets even for complete systems. I would like to get a complete LED system with sunrise/sunset capabilities either included or thru a controller like the TYPHON. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Can you also recommend the height above the water each of these systems should be mounted. It seems like it depends on the total wattage and the tank depth (9" in this case).

 

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Dan

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purebullet417

Hopefully someone can help me out but im not liking my reefbreeders fixture so im switching it up to a 6 bulb t5 unit that im going to take out 2 bulbs and retro in some leds. Can any one give me some suggestions on layout and wattage for the leds? i think id like the leds to be full spectrum so i have more control over the color. tank is a 57 rimless

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  • 3 months later...

So. It's been a few years since I built my LED fixture for an oddly shaped 110. 60 long. 18 wide. 24 deep. I think I used 2 strips of RBs. 26 each. And one strip of whites. Cool whites mixed w/ neutral white as per the rec back then. 24 or 26. I can't remember. I dim the strips separately to get the look that I want. I run them all around 700ma. I have been happy with it.

 

Now I am looking to start swapping out 400W MH 20k lights on my 210 (72lx24wx29 or 30 deep). I was going to swap 1 MH at a time which. Each one covers a 2x2 ft section. Since a ballast just went up now is as good a time as any.

 

Is figure 9 with optics a good place to start? It is an SPS and LPS tank. The 400w halides are in lumen brights and run 5 to 6 hours a day?

 

 

CREs for all? That is what I used last time.

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Paleoreef103

So. It's been a few years since I built my LED fixture for an oddly shaped 110. 60 long. 18 wide. 24 deep. I think I used 2 strips of RBs. 26 each. And one strip of whites. Cool whites mixed w/ neutral white as per the rec back then. 24 or 26. I can't remember. I dim the strips separately to get the look that I want. I run them all around 700ma. I have been happy with it.

 

Now I am looking to start swapping out 400W MH 20k lights on my 210 (72lx24wx29 or 30 deep). I was going to swap 1 MH at a time which. Each one covers a 2x2 ft section. Since a ballast just went up now is as good a time as any.

 

Is figure 9 with optics a good place to start? It is an SPS and LPS tank. The 400w halides are in lumen brights and run 5 to 6 hours a day?

 

 

CREs for all? That is what I used last time.

You're in a whole different ball game from where we were when you built that array. You want to do an array to cover a 24X24X30" area? Look into "Evil Clusters." Evil clusters use several large LEDs for the bulk of the power (currently many are using the Bridgelux Vero line for the white LEDs and the Luxeon M or K line for the royal blues) and then fill in the gaps with 3W LEDs.

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jedimasterben

So. It's been a few years since I built my LED fixture for an oddly shaped 110. 60 long. 18 wide. 24 deep. I think I used 2 strips of RBs. 26 each. And one strip of whites. Cool whites mixed w/ neutral white as per the rec back then. 24 or 26. I can't remember. I dim the strips separately to get the look that I want. I run them all around 700ma. I have been happy with it.

 

Now I am looking to start swapping out 400W MH 20k lights on my 210 (72lx24wx29 or 30 deep). I was going to swap 1 MH at a time which. Each one covers a 2x2 ft section. Since a ballast just went up now is as good a time as any.

 

Is figure 9 with optics a good place to start? It is an SPS and LPS tank. The 400w halides are in lumen brights and run 5 to 6 hours a day?

 

 

CREs for all? That is what I used last time.

Definitely look into the 'evil cluster' as mentioned above. If you're willing, also, you might want to do a test with one cluster inside of your halide reflector. It's something I've seen done before with LEP and should have the same application to LED, and should make it badass. If that's something you want to consider, I would purchase the supplies to do a single cluster as your test and only cut one of the reflectors to see how you like it. One day I'm gonna find a good deal on some bigass reflector and give it a go myself.

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I figured everything has changed. So many more color options and LED options.

 

Thanks for the ideas! I had not thought of reusing my high end MH reflectors! Great idea. I will search for build threads on that idea. Anyone know if any?

 

I see most of the common LED suppliers don't sell the Veros? I only found them at digikey. Any other sources people use for them?

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I figured everything has changed. So many more color options and LED options.

 

Thanks for the ideas! I had not thought of reusing my high end MH reflectors! Great idea. I will search for build threads on that idea. Anyone know if any?

 

I see most of the common LED suppliers don't sell the Veros? I only found them at digikey. Any other sources people use for them?

 

I suggest digikey for the veros, I believe that is where most people get them from. On top of that their customer service is as good as it gets along with quick shipping.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all, hope this thread isn't dead. Hoping for some feed back on my plans.

 

I'm in the process of building 3 arrays for a Betta life space 1000 tank which is 39X21X24 inches, and I was hoping someone could give me some feed back on grouping and let me know if I've gone completely over kill.

 

Each array is 12 RB, 6 NW, 6 TV 2 OCW clusters and a 470nm Blue moonlight bang centre.

 

I'd rather have to much power and run them at 75% output than be at 100% and not quite enough. Also will allow me to transfer the arrays if I upgrade.

This is based on Cree XP-E 3W diodes as they are readily available to me here in the UK at a good price but I'm not sure how they measure up to the Cree diodes suggested here, it's a lot harder to get the XP-G's. I'll be sticking 80 degree optics on the RB's, NW's and TV's. They'll be suspended off a rail 4-6 inches off the waters surface.

The heat sinks are 160X160X25mm with an 8mm base and I've got an Arctic 120TC pro bolted to the top of each one with the temperature sensor pined in place on the led side by one of the stand offs that will hold my splash guard to the array.

The random green rectangle is a 15 pin socket to break out board that will allow me to connect and disconnect each array individually with out hassle if I need to service one (replace a diode or fan etc).

Each array will be individually controlled and each colour channel will be independent as well using an AT Mega 2560 based controller I'm building. So that's 12 separate PWM signals for the main lights allowing sunrise, sunset and storm effects if I so wish and a 13th channel for the moonlighting.

Every thing will be run through 13 Meanwell Ldd-700H's supplied by a 48v 10.5A PSU.

Have I gone completely mad or is this roughly what I need?

Cheers all.

LEDclusterfinallayout_zpsd7f1ff0e.jpg

WP_20140801_004_zpsa849c6a7.jpg

WP_20140801_003_zpsccc6a20b.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

So more goodies have arrived. I managed to get my NW and RB on 12mm bases. I was wanting to get 3 up addressable pcbs, but the supplier I found couldn't source them. 12mm pcbs however put the diodes nearly as close together so other than it being a pain in the ass to stick them all down and then solder them up, I shouldn't see much disco shadowing.

It's also meant I can put a nice even grouping together and get everything on the 160mm square heatsinks.

Any feed back with regard to how over kill 3 of these arrays maybe would still be appreciated.

 

WP_20141022_003_zps7051e18c.jpgWP_20141028_001_zps842d6b82.jpg

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Interesting build.

 

I don't think you can overkill with LEDs. Worst that happens is you turn them down, and/or move them up. And thats a good thing.

 

More LEDs equals better coverage.

 

The higher they are off the tank, the smaller the difference from top of tank to bottom of tank(Inverse Square Law, see sig).

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Cheers for the response farkwar.


Yeah I was going with the dial them back theory as being my best option. The issue I have is I've chosen fairly small (160mm square) heat sinks. However factory units such as AI Sol use very tightly packed circular clusters of diodes and from what I have seen of them in use over tanks coverage is fairly good. I've got at least 5 if not 6 inches of height off the waters surface with the canopy setup I've got and I can always modify the way I hang the arrays anyway so they are higher if necessary.

 

Just waiting on PSU's and the 16 channel pwm board to complete my controller and we'll be ready to go.

 

Few pics of one of the arrays all wired up and the start of my controller which will be enclosed in a junction box with the PSU's so only the screen is visible. Hopefully look quite smart when done.

WP_20141029_004_zpsf3b93e81.jpgWP_20141029_005_zps44fbc3f0.jpgWP_20141029_001_zpsa3648e0d.jpgWP_20141030_002_zps5cafa065.jpg9dba6e3d-ba4d-4baa-aeb8-8db06e2bcc87_zpsWP_20141031_005_zps332a754c.jpg

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  • 1 year later...
Patrick_teh_reefer

Anyone have a buildsheet for a 150 tall that they'd be willing to share with me? :D

Not great at visualizing and would greatly appreciate any help.

Thanks!

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  • 1 year later...

Hoping to get a response on this old thread,

 

My tank is 40 1/2" long x 20" wide x 24" height (75 Gallons), nothing in it as I'm in the process of putting everything together. Now for the lighting I'm going DIY, I'm planning 3 clusters, the total of LED's will be as follows;

 

Channel 1- Luxeon Rebel Neutral White 15 pieces

Channel 2- Luxeon Rebel Royal Blue 21 Pieces and Cree XPE Cool Blue 12 pieces

Channel 3-660NM Red 6 pieces and 495NM Cyan 6 Pieces

Channel 4- Hyper Violet 15 Pieces

 

That will give be 25 LED's per cluster, I think i'll need 7 or 8 drivers, i'll be using LDD

I'm undecided on the controller either Steve's LED's HurricaneX, Blue fish mini or StormX, i'm leaning towards the Blue fish mini, not 100% so sure as yet.

 

How does it look?

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jedimasterben

Hoping to get a response on this old thread,

 

My tank is 40 1/2" long x 20" wide x 24" height (75 Gallons), nothing in it as I'm in the process of putting everything together. Now for the lighting I'm going DIY, I'm planning 3 clusters, the total of LED's will be as follows;

 

Channel 1- Luxeon Rebel Neutral White 15 pieces

Channel 2- Luxeon Rebel Royal Blue 21 Pieces and Cree XPE Cool Blue 12 pieces

Channel 3-660NM Red 6 pieces and 495NM Cyan 6 Pieces

Channel 4- Hyper Violet 15 Pieces

 

That will give be 25 LED's per cluster, I think i'll need 7 or 8 drivers, i'll be using LDD

I'm undecided on the controller either Steve's LED's HurricaneX, Blue fish mini or StormX, i'm leaning towards the Blue fish mini, not 100% so sure as yet.

 

How does it look?

There are lots of options these days, especially as far as multichip or n-up arrays go. These will significantly reduce color banding versus using individual LEDs.

 

I am really liking the blueAcro line. Their 20K Mega4Z has 15x LEDs and is $57 including a reflector and diffuser. It has 2700k 90CRI, 4000K 80CRI, royal blue, blue, and cyan, and color from it is awesome, but I think the AcroStrip 14K has better color for non-fluorescent corals. It uses a 5700K 90CRI chip, mint (which is one of the best LEDs around, super bright without being overbearing), blue, royal blue, and violet.

 

I would definitely recommend using something like these. Four of them will give about the same number of LEDs and is about $15-20 cheaper. Their drivers are also cheap, you're looking at about $46 for drivers to power the four arrays, and they are dimmable by Bluefish or Arduino (though I'd recommend Bluefish).

 

 

Are you planning on an SPS dominant tank or a mixed reef? If the former, I would recommend to add a pair of T5 to the mix for better spread and light fill.

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