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My Atlantis - Wild & Woolly May 2015 Pictures!


eitallent

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April 2015

 

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Tank pics from Halloween of '13 :)

 

Hot Lips Houlihan Clownfish video

 

Tank upgrade complete video. August 2013

 

New 34G upgrade. July 2013

 

Up-Close and Beautiful

 

Tank Engulfing Tunicate? Here and here

 

Pest Pico w/ Islandoftiki Majanos May 2013

 

FTS May/June 2013

 

Video FTS for April 2013

 

Macro shots and more here April 2013

 

LED overhaul Woohoo!

 

New fish Sixline Wrasse video :)

 

Latest videos of Grandma Flatworm & Life in Macro

 

Skipper is having the time of his life eating newly hatched brine shrimp.

 

Here is the DIY food container refugium :)

Here is the DIY Brine Shrimp Hatcher

 

01/26/2013 Discovered Cironalid isopods in new LR!

12/19/2012 Upgrade to bigger DIY fuge with bulkheads/

2/4/2012 New Blue Neon Gobies and a cheese ball?

11/30/2012 I never get tired of sharing pictures.

11/27/2012 Latest pictures of new Frogspawn and Montipora

10/26/2012 Pictures, pictures

10/20/2012 Duncan is doing something rude I think.

10/13/2012: I have added lots of new softies, LPS, one fish, invertebrates and posted lots of pics in latest posts! and here Click the links to jump to the post with pictures. Enjoy.

I just started my Nano Cube 12 G two weeks ago and I am sick with obsession. The obsession must be contagious. I have caught my husband with the magnifying glass peering deeply into the crevices of the mottled, purple and green live rock. :happy:
My Atlantis has just finished the brown algae bloom and the diatoms are slowly disappearing from the sand. I scrub any brown or red algae I see with a toothbrush off the rocks. I do not give them a moments peace. The CUC happily dart around catching bits of whatever they like as I brush. Yummy.

My water is testing great for all parameter except calcium. I am adding Purple up as recommended by my LFS. Hopefully that calcium level will get high enough soon. I am eager to added some soft corals. fingerscrossed

One of these has already molted!
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This tiny HH got caught in daytime on the front of NC
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edit: linked to better pics.

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I have caught my husband with the magnifying glass peering deeply into the crevices of the mottled, purple and green live rock. :happy:

 

He's hooked already, good job! ;)

 

BTW, welcome to NR!

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Sad news. One of the Turbo( correction Astrea) snails is no more. I knew something was not right when I put both snails in the tank and immediately one of the Peppermints started harassing one snail. The shrimp is now gruesomely devouring what is left of the snail. Eeew.

Blissfully unaware of its friend's grisly fate, a snail grazes on the rock above.

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Those are Astrea, 80% of the time they're a temperate water species. Just a heads up.

 

It's possible your snail was on the way out all ready, the shrimp are hard wired to pick up on things like that.

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Those are Astrea, 80% of the time they're a temperate water species. Just a heads up.

 

It's possible your snail was on the way out all ready, the shrimp are hard wired to pick up on things like that.

 

Oops. Thanks for the snail ID :blush: They told me Astrea at the store & I still got it wrong!

I think you are right about the snail already being on the way out when I put him in. The other is doing great.

 

Here is a FTS of live rocks w/CUC

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Emerald crab is munching algae every time I see him.

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Watch what you wish for. My wife was asking for a saltwater tank for years. I finally caved and got a crappy BC14 off craigslist. Three tanks later and thousands of dollars I'm the one that's addicted. And she's complaining of all the attention I give the tanks. My excuse is "its for the kids!".

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Hi welcome. Where I can I like to tell people about photobucket. Makes posting pics a lot easier and it doesn't cost anything.

 

That seems like a lot of sand in there. How much did you put in? Ive never seen a peppermint kill a snail, but they eat anything that isn't doing well so... Peps can also eat corals if they don't have enough alternative food like aptaisia or fish food or something.

 

Also, if your mans got a microscope out already and looking at the rocks here's what you should do: get rid of the tank, seize control of the bank accounts, take his credit cards, and explain that you have developed a sudden allergic reaction to saltwater. It's either that, or go out and get a real good skimmer cause you'll need it in a year or so. Lol. Good luck.

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Hi welcome. Where I can I like to tell people about photobucket. Makes posting pics a lot easier and it doesn't cost anything.

Hi, thanks for the welcome. I will look into photobucket. I have a lot to learn about tank photography. I have been reading and learning so much about the chemistry of reef tanks that photography will have to wait its turn.

That seems like a lot of sand in there. How much did you put in? Ive never seen a peppermint kill a snail, but they eat anything that isn't doing well so... Peps can also eat corals if they don't have enough alternative food like aptaisia or fish food or something.
I put in what was recommended for 12 G, I forget how much that was already! It may look like too much because I have hollowed out a bit of sand under some of the arches in the live rock. It creates nice tunnels caves for critters. So some of the sand is piled up against the glass.
Also, if your mans got a microscope out already and looking at the rocks here's what you should do: get rid of the tank, seize control of the bank accounts, take his credit cards, and explain that you have developed a sudden allergic reaction to saltwater. It's either that, or go out and get a real good skimmer cause you'll need it in a year or so. Lol. Good luck.

LOL This morning hubby even started testing the parameters of the water chemistry before I had a chance! He has been bitten. :wub:

 

Watch what you wish for. My wife was asking for a saltwater tank for years. I finally caved and got a crappy BC14 off craigslist. Three tanks later and thousands of dollars I'm the one that's addicted. And she's complaining of all the attention I give the tanks. My excuse is "its for the kids!".

 

Singlefin,

Hubby and I are both Biology grads so we justify this hobby as educational also! We are headed down the road you have already traveled. Hubby is already talking of upgrading from the stock pump. It is shaping up to be a fun but expensive journey.

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I found another molted shrimp shell this morning. Those little see-through shells look so weird to me still. :eek:

 

In other news, this past Friday I purchased the two part I-Bionic calcium. Why? After the algae bloom the calcium levels were really low (160 ppm) and the coralline algae started losing its color. So I started adding the recommend amount of Purple Up daily for a week and the calcium levels did not go up from 160 ppm. I have my water tested at the LFS weekly to confirm my test results. I also had them test my alkalinity. It was also at the recommend level. Since the PU was not working to raise My Atlantis' calcium levels to recommended levels I decided to try the I-Bionic. At the recommended doses it raised calcium levels up to 300 ppm after first 24 hrs. I am sure the LR will continue to absorb Ca so that the coralline algae continues to grow.

 

I will continue to use the I-Bionic until calcium levels level out and THEN will start adding LPS slowly.

 

I have read that if magnesium levels are too low that most of the added calcium falls out of the water as a precipitate. I will ask about this at my LFS on Tuesday. I will also invest in a alkalinity tester.

 

Can't wait to get my first coral. :happy:

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What salt are you using? In a 12 gallon most water chem issues should be cleared up by a good size water change. I can't imagine why Calc would be 160! What specific gravity did you mix the salt?

 

My initial thought is that you should not start dosing to remedy an issue (such as low calcium, etc) until you know why the problem exists. B-Ionic is very good, but I feel like with a good salt and 0 coral your water should be spot on. Usually people (me included) start dosing supplements and buffers because of overstocking, or heavy stocking of carbonate based corals. But again, if you have no coral and you have low calc then dosing is probably not the right idea. IMO. Plus it doesn't help you for all the 'down the road' obstacles that dosing won't necessarily remedy. Make sense?

 

Also, if your shrimp has molted twice in a couple weeks, thats probably not good.

 

EDIT: Lastly Purple Up sucks...

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What salt are you using? In a 12 gallon most water chem issues should be cleared up by a good size water change. I can't imagine why Calc would be 160! What specific gravity did you mix the salt?

 

My initial thought is that you should not start dosing to remedy an issue (such as low calcium, etc) until you know why the problem exists. B-Ionic is very good, but I feel like with a good salt and 0 coral your water should be spot on. Usually people (me included) start dosing supplements and buffers because of overstocking, or heavy stocking of carbonate based corals. But again, if you have no coral and you have low calc then dosing is probably not the right idea. IMO. Plus it doesn't help you for all the 'down the road' obstacles that dosing won't necessarily remedy. Make sense?

 

Also, if your shrimp has molted twice in a couple weeks, thats probably not good.

 

EDIT: Lastly Purple Up sucks...

Great comment. Thanks for your thoughts, pschom.

 

I tested the SW I bought from the LFS with my API test and the calcium was at 380 ppm. Hmmm. I read on this forum that it should be at 500 ppm. Is that correct? I think I will have to start mixing my own SW to ensure quality?

 

Even so the calcium levels continue to decrease. This afternoon calcium was down to 240 ppm from 280 ppm (yesterday evening). I did a 2.5 gal water change so in the very least calcium levels should be closer 380 ppm. Does the live rock use up much calcium? Where is it all going?

 

Nitrate is at zero, pH at 8.2, salinity at 30.5 PPT and temperature has been around 80 F. I do not have a alkalinity tester yet. I am also researching the use of Mg to inhibit the precipitation of the calcium from the water. I have observed a white build up on the plastic back-board of the tank. Could it be calcium build up?

 

What else can I do?

 

Everything appears to be healthy. The coralline algae is spreading across the LR. The green algae and diatoms are in check. The Molting may be from two different shrimp as I have three in there. What does frequent molting indicate?

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Stop using premixed salt water from your lfs. If you have access to RODI or if you can swing a filtration unit (you can find ones for under $200) use that only. As good as an lfs may be I will never go back to buying water from any ever again. Too many variables: silicates, phosphate, sediment, tap not RO cause they forgot to order new filters and they were clogged from over use to make money.....

 

Make your own water at all costs so you really know what goes in there.

 

As far as the calcium. That's real weird. If it were me id do a 50% water change at 1.026 sg and test. Wait a week and test again. If Calc is still under 300 you'll need to consult some one smarter than me. Lol I'd say your test kit is bad but I'd your getting two separate readings then... Is it possible the test kit is off and it's really 400+ when mixed and 300 when in the tank?? Don't be afraid to do a large water change. But I HIGHLY recommend buying an RO unit and mixing the water yourself. Has saved me so many headaches I can't even count. My bio cube thread says it all.

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Hello, everyone. Hope all of you had a great week-end.

 

Update on my out of control water chemistry: You noobs learn from my noob mistakes! ;)

 

Here is a re-cap to put recent events in perspective. As you have already read, I cannot keep calcium levels up. Also, the pH was dropping regularly.

 

Thursday I had my water tested @ LFS to confirm my test levels. Yep, Ca was low but he said every thing else looked great including alkalinity. I had not purchased an alkalinity test yet. He recommend that I keep dosing with Purple Up and if the pH dropped to continue using the recommend amount of Seachem Marine Buffer." Okie Dokie." I said.

 

Friday we went to a fish store out of town. They listened to my sad story and said (like some knowledgeable ppl on this forum) Purple Up was "poop." They recommend B-Ionic two part calcium buffer system. So, like a good girl, I got that and dosed my tank.

 

Saturday I did a 15% water change in the morning. Saturday night the calcium level was at 260 ppm so I added B-Ionic Ca and once more the pH dropped to 7.8 from 8.3 so I added buffer.

 

Sunday Ca was still 220ppm so I dosed again. :angry: Salinity also was up so I topped off with fresh RO/DI.

 

Yesterday I went to the out of town fish store; this time with a water sample. I wanted Ca and Alk. tested. Ca was at 160 ppm and alk was through the roof! He recommended that I do 20% water changes every day without dosing anything until the water tested normal again. I purchased my own Salifert alk tester. I tested the alk myself as soon as I got home. It was 16.8 dKH! :o I did a 20% water change and the dKH was 14.4.

 

With the help of my Chemist husband here is what what this last week's events have taught me. The Seachem Marine Buffer contains carbonate. The more you try to regulate pH with the buffer the more carbonate you are adding to your water. Carbonate increases alkalinity and binds with calcium to form a solid (calcium carbonate) that falls out of the water and thus reducing the calcium levels. I added buffer enough times over the last 2 weeks that the calcium was being used up by the carbonate. The carbonate that was not used up by the calcium increased the alkalinity. So it was a vicious cycle. No matter how much calcium I added it was never going to be enough.

 

Moral of the story: I learned

1.) to do water changes more frequently rather than dose with additives

2.) to leave your tank alone while it is cycling even if pH and other levels are whacked out. Do not panic (learned this from the kind ppl. on this forum)

3.) that most salt water mixes already have calcium and other necessary elements mixed in (exception is old -school mixes like Instant Ocean) Which I also learned on this forum.

4.) to mix your own SW so that you KNOW the quality that you get into the tank (shout out to NR member pschom).

 

Today I am doing another water change. The forecast for the next week is more water changes. :D

 

Thank you all for your input and patience with my ignorance. The learning curve is frustrating but now that I understand a little more it is satisfying.

 

I am confident that I will soon be able to add my first coral. I will keep you posted! TTFN

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Hi welcome. Where I can I like to tell people about photobucket. Makes posting pics a lot easier and it doesn't cost anything.

pschom, got it done. TY for the suggestion. :wizard:

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jedimasterben

The other moral of the story: never, ever, ever, for any reason, ever dose anything that says it is supposed to bring your pH up. :)

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Here is my Atlantis Arch being inspected by the Peppermint Patrol

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Welcome eitallent :welcome: ! Looks good so far -- can't wait to see the full tank shot (fts) when it comes out.

 

TY for the welcome ,msscha. It is very nice and I feel all warm and fuzzy when folks take time out of their busy day to post greetings, suggestions and pictures!

 

GROUP HUG! :grouphug:

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Who is that lurking in the shadows? It is the Peppermint Patrol guarding the Atlantis Arch. Watch them sway & twitch to attention in this two minute video. Click the picture to start the video.

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Water chemistry update:

 

I have changed 20% of the water every day since Monday of this week (twice on Tuesday). Basically I replaced all the water in the 12G tank. I have not dosed anything! :)

 

Here are the numbers:

 

MON.............TUE.............WED...........THU

T 79.9F.........T 78.5F......T 80.4........T 81.5F

pH 8.0.......... pH 8.0........pH 8.2........pH 8.3

S 1.021.........S 1.022...... S 1.023.......S 1.023

dKH 14.4......dKH 14.......dKH 10.2....dKH 10.4

Ca 260.........Ca 300.........Ca 360.......Ca 360

 

#)1 I hate deciphering color charts for pH and color titrations for Ca and dKH. Has anyone used the digital tests? If so are they reliable?

 

#2) I will not ever buy pre-mixed SW from a LFS. Last batch was 1.027~1.028ppt which confirms my decision to mix my own. Anyone have any experience with Instant Ocean Reef Crystals?

 

#3) I mixed my own SW yesterday and the alkalinity tested at 10.2 dKH after a 24 hour rest. I used a Salifert tester and I even did the calibration test to ensure I was doing the test correctly. Isn't a 10 dKH too high?

 

#4) When do you experienced reefers recommend I add corals?

 

BTW all the CUC survived the water chemistry roller coaster. :scarry: I added 6 Cerith snails and they are really cleaning up the rocks and walls.

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jedimasterben
#)1 I hate deciphering color charts for pH and color titrations for Ca and dKH. Has anyone used the digital tests? If so are they reliable?

Don't bother with the Hanna calcium colorimeter, there's some bugs they need to work out before they can be considered accurate and reliable. That being said, their alkalinity and phosphate checkers are awesome and very accurate. For calcium and Magnesium, I use Red Sea titration test kits. You can get the pack that does Calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium for $50, all three are accurate and easy to use, and easy to tell when the titration is finished.

 

#2) I will not ever buy pre-mixed SW from a LFS. Last batch was 1.027~1.028ppt which confirms my decision to mix my own. Anyone have any experience with Instant Ocean Reef Crystals?

Yep. High calcium, high magnesium, high dKh when mixed, then dKh drops to around 9.5dKh or so, but it will fit all of your needs.

 

#3) I mixed my own SW yesterday and the alkalinity tested at 10.2 dKH after a 24 hour rest. I used a Salifert tester and I even did the calibration test to ensure I was doing the test correctly. Isn't a 10 dKH too high?

Nope.

 

#4) When do you experienced reefers recommend I add corals?

When your tank levels are stable.

 

BTW all the CUC survived the water chemistry roller coaster. :scarry: I added 6 Cerith snails and they are really cleaning up the rocks and walls.

Yep, they're hardy. Hopefully your CUC consists of more than Florida ceriths.

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Don't bother with the Hanna calcium colorimeter, there's some bugs they need to work out before they can be considered accurate and reliable. That being said, their alkalinity and phosphate checkers are awesome and very accurate. For calcium and Magnesium, I use Red Sea titration test kits. You can get the pack that does Calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium for $50, all three are accurate and easy to use, and easy to tell when the titration is finished.

Thank you for that heads up on the Hanna Ca colorimeter. When I run out of my current testers I will definitely invest in the Red Sea pro kit. Thanks for the recommendation. The PH chart is hard to read especially between the 8.0 and 8.2.

 

Yep. High calcium, high magnesium, high dKh when mixed, then dKh drops to around 9.5dKh or so, but it will fit all of your needs.
Good to know!

 

Nope.
Great, then I was doing the test correctly. :happydance:

 

When your tank levels are stable.
Do you like these numbers? How many days/weeks of stable numbers?

 

Yep, they're hardy. Hopefully your CUC consists of more than Florida ceriths.
Yup. 3 Peppermint shrimp, 1 emerald crab, 1 astrea and lots of tiny HH snails
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jedimasterben
Do you like these numbers? How many days/weeks of stable numbers?

Calcium is very low, and salinity is low, keep it at 1.025 for a reef tank. What are alkalinity and magnesium levels? I assume they are also low. What are you measuring your salinity with, a refractometer or a swing-arm hydrometer?

 

As long as your tank is cycled, you can add livestock immediately, you just need stability from that point on. See below about your 'cleanup crew' and I would mix your own water and do a 100% change (or close to it).

 

Yup. 3 Peppermint shrimp, 1 emerald crab, 1 astrea and lots of tiny HH snails

Not particularly a good cleanup crew. Peppermint shrimp are #######s and scavengers (will not touch algae), I would ditch them, emerald crabs are hit or miss, especially if you don't have tons of stuff for them to eat they may snack on coral or start on a snail-killing rampage, astrea snails get massive and are bulldozers. I would order a quick crew (without hermit crabs) from Reefcleaners. Dwarf ceriths, Florida ceriths, nerites, and nassarius are an amazing combination, you have algaevores with the ceriths and nerites, and the nassarius are only detrivores. You can also get some other detrivores, zig zag periwinkles, dwarf planaxis, brittle and serpent stars, etc, the more diversity you have the better! Stay away from conchs, they get large and you will most likely not grow algae quickly enough to keep them fed. They are also bulldozers for the sandbed, keep that in mind, as well.

 

Also, keep an eye on those hitchiker snails. Not a ton of them are reef safe.

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Calcium is very low, and salinity is low, keep it at 1.025 for a reef tank. What are alkalinity and magnesium levels? I assume they are also low. What are you measuring your salinity with, a refractometer or a swing-arm hydrometer?

Okay. I will keep salinity at 1.025. I use a swing-arm hydrometer. Alkalinity is at ~10.2 or 3.65 meq/L. I do not have a Mg tester so I will let the LFS do it for me today.

 

As long as your tank is cycled, you can add livestock immediately, you just need stability from that point on. See below about your 'cleanup crew' and I would mix your own water and do a 100% change (or close to it).

 

 

Not particularly a good cleanup crew. Peppermint shrimp are #######s and scavengers (will not touch algae), I would ditch them, emerald crabs are hit or miss, especially if you don't have tons of stuff for them to eat they may snack on coral or start on a snail-killing rampage, astrea snails get massive and are bulldozers. I would order a quick crew (without hermit crabs) from Reefcleaners. Dwarf ceriths, Florida ceriths, nerites, and nassarius are an amazing combination, you have algaevores with the ceriths and nerites, and the nassarius are only detrivores. You can also get some other detrivores, zig zag periwinkles, dwarf planaxis, brittle and serpent stars, etc, the more diversity you have the better! Stay away from conchs, they get large and you will most likely not grow algae quickly enough to keep them fed. They are also bulldozers for the sandbed, keep that in mind, as well.

 

I will take this advice. I planned on returning the crab, astrea and Mexican ceriths any way b/c they are already too big for the scale I want to maintain. I will see about getting the CUC from RC.

 

Also, keep an eye on those hitchiker snails. Not a ton of them are reef safe.

Got it! ;) Thanks for your time and input!

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