sfnt125 Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 So the test kit says to add one drop and mix. Etc, etc. count the total number of drops till water in tube turns bright yellow. WTF is bright yellow?!?! I used it today and basically my tube water turned faint blue/yellow at 8 drops~8dKH. But it wasn't bright yellow, IMO, until around 11-12 drops. Photos here.. My tank thread. The ALK vial is first one in the right. Is that bright yellow? Sorry for crap pics. iPad. Anyone with experience with these kits that could help me out? It's just so confusing, my bright yellow may be different than yours . Link to comment
MeepNand Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Ok, I use these. When you pout the drops in, the water is a color, yes? Just drop em in until the water changes to a different color than the first drop. Also, if you are using Reef Crystals, the alk is insanely high. Like 14-15. Link to comment
thegambler26 Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I use the same kit. I look at it like when it turns from solid blue to yellow green that's kinda like a half. So if after the 8th drop it changes to blue green and on the next drop it's yellow it's like 8.5. I know it doesn't say that in the instructions but it seems to work for me. I've actually tested it against an Elos kit and it works out pretty much the same. After it turns blue green the next drop always makes it turn yellow Link to comment
MeepNand Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Go to your LFS and get it tested. The test it immediatly at home. When you get to the result the LFS got, then you know how it changes. Link to comment
sfnt125 Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 So if after the 8th drop it changes to blue green and on the next drop it's yellow it's like 8.5. K, thanks. That makes sense. I wish I had different results though. 8.5 is low, if thats right i Really wish it were higher. It's not bright yellow @8-9 drops so it bugs me that the instructions say 'bright yellow'. Go to your LFS and get it tested. The test it immediatly at home. When you get to the result the LFS got, then you know how it changes. Yeah, I'll try that this weekend. See what they come up with. Good thought. Link to comment
thegambler26 Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I agree with the color change it can be hard to tell. Elos kh kits are even harder to tell. 8-10 kh is ok. I like to keep mine around 9 that way if it dips a little it stays within acceptable range. Link to comment
sfnt125 Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share Posted July 31, 2012 I agree with the color change it can be hard to tell. Elos kh kits are even harder to tell. 8-10 kh is ok. I like to keep mine around 9 that way if it dips a little it stays within acceptable range. Ok, so I don't feel so bad then. I've got a couple corals on my LR that I want to preserve during my cycle so I'm a little concerned about it. Thanks for input. Link to comment
MeepNand Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 If you keep up with WCs, you won't need to test calcium or mag or alk for until you get a lot of SPS or clams. Link to comment
thegambler26 Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 If you keep up with WCs, you won't need to test calcium or mag or alk for until you get a lot of SPS or clams. Calcium and mag might not be as necessary unless keeping lps or sps, but kh I think definitely should be tested. It gets out of whack easily and can change rapidly. I would put ph and dkh as some of the most important levels to check. Link to comment
MeepNand Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Depends on the frequency of WCs. Not saying don't test, but in the early stages, a lot of it is redundant. Link to comment
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