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THE OFFICIAL ASK ALBERT THIEL THREAD


ZephNYC

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I decided not to use thermal switches for this project because I have a better idea. Today I built a water flow cut off switch that also allows me to see if the water is flowing visually. What I am planning to do is have the timer that turns on the lights, turn on the water pump instead of the lights. When the water starts flowing through the pipe, The water flow will raise a magnet encased in a glass cylinder that is in a vertical acrylic tube. When the magnet gets near the top of the cylinder, it trips the magnetic switch that turns on the LEDs. When the pump goes off, the magnet will drop, breaking the circuit to the lights. I would like to take credit for this, but I didn't invent it. I saw a very similar switch on the net. With this installed, the LEDs can't go on unless there is water flowing and if water is flowing, the fixture will stay cool. Even if the water leaks out of the system, the lights will not turn on whish is what I want. By looking at the position of the magnet, I can determine if water is flowing.

 

Flow%20switch_zpso3c98gwq.jpg

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My screen is growing algae just not matured enough yet to get an even growth. But in time it will be fine. I also didn't build the light for it yet so it is just a silly, very dim LED

 

2015-02-06%2004.10.14_zpsomnfycz1.jpg

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I decided not to use thermal switches for this project because I have a better idea. Today I built a water flow cut off switch that also allows me to see if the water is flowing visually. What I am planning to do is have the timer that turns on the lights, turn on the water pump instead of the lights. When the water starts flowing through the pipe, The water flow will raise a magnet encased in a glass cylinder that is in a vertical acrylic tube. When the magnet gets near the top of the cylinder, it trips the magnetic switch that turns on the LEDs. When the pump goes off, the magnet will drop, breaking the circuit to the lights. I would like to take credit for this, but I didn't invent it. I saw a very similar switch on the net. With this installed, the LEDs can't go on unless there is water flowing and if water is flowing, the fixture will stay cool. Even if the water leaks out of the system, the lights will not turn on whish is what I want. By looking at the position of the magnet, I can determine if water is flowing.

 

Flow%20switch_zpso3c98gwq.jpg

 

Very very interesting

 

Albert

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My torch coral takes great pleasure in killing my montipora. I caught him with his fist on the thing.

2015-02-04%2005.17.01_zpsz0tnt0xm.jpg

 

Yes and those sweeper tentacles can get very long indeed

 

Albert

My screen is growing algae just not matured enough yet to get an even growth. But in time it will be fine. I also didn't build the light for it yet so it is just a silly, very dim LED

 

2015-02-06%2004.10.14_zpsomnfycz1.jpg

 

 

But one can see that it is working !!!

 

Albert

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I tested the water flow, shut off switch and it works very nice. Now I need to solder on the copper management system and glue on the LEDs

 

Nice, getting close to finishing it up

 

Albert

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If you think that torch is bad, try a piece of Galaxea. Mine sends out 10" sweepers so I changed the flow to blow them into a safe area with no corals, read against the side of the tank, lol.

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If you think that torch is bad, try a piece of Galaxea. Mine sends out 10" sweepers so I changed the flow to blow them into a safe area with no corals, read against the side of the tank, lol.

You have found out the problem with Galaxea. I never recommend people buy them for that very problem and when a sweeper locks on it stays on.

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If you think that torch is bad, try a piece of Galaxea. Mine sends out 10" sweepers so I changed the flow to blow them into a safe area with no corals, read against the side of the tank, lol.

Good move indeed

 

Albert

You have found out the problem with Galaxea. I never recommend people buy them for that very problem and when a sweeper locks on it stays on.

Yes it does indeed

 

Albert

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I brought it up early in this thread and never really got an answer. :P

 

Yes, DurocShark, Some system set ups are indeed becoming a bit "too" complex IMHO

 

Albert

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Yes, DurocShark, Some system set ups are indeed becoming a bit "too" complex IMHO

 

Albert

so much equipment taking control over the tank I would loose interests if all I had to do was watch it lol. However seems to me the more automation you have the more you need to care for that automation and all the kit IMO you just change focus and it can be just as difficult to maintain if not even more so. I like to understand and build my own stuff as much as is reasonably possible but then I am old school to a certain extent lol.

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I just soldered the wire management system on the water cooled fixture. It's those small copper rings that will support the wires around the frame. I installed about 20 of them. Next I want to clean it up, make it nice and shiny, then shoot it with some clear coat to keep it from tarnishing. The next step after that is to glue on the 72 LEDs and solder them together. I doubt I will finish this for a while because of some hand surgery this week, but I will try,

 

 

 

 

2015-02-13%2005.00.03_zpsdasajnjg.jpg

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I just soldered the wire management system on the water cooled fixture. It's those small copper rings that will support the wires around the frame. I installed about 20 of them. Next I want to clean it up, make it nice and shiny, then shoot it with some clear coat to keep it from tarnishing. The next step after that is to glue on the 72 LEDs and solder them together. I doubt I will finish this for a while because of some hand surgery this week, but I will try,

 

 

 

 

2015-02-13%2005.00.03_zpsdasajnjg.jpg

 

You sure are making a lot of progress Paul

 

Albert

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I finished soldering the 72 LEDs on the copper and tried the thing out. I can't believe it works. I had my doubts because the terminals on the LEDs are meant for a robot to install them on a circuit board so the terminals are the size of a pin head or smaller.

Now to make the enclosure for the drivers and get a heater core.

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I finished soldering the 72 LEDs on the copper and tried the thing out. I can't believe it works. I had my doubts because the terminals on the LEDs are meant for a robot to install them on a circuit board so the terminals are the size of a pin head or smaller.

Now to make the enclosure for the drivers and get a heater core.

 

You Da Man Paul

 

Albert

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I finished soldering the 72 LEDs on the copper and tried the thing out. I can't believe it works. I had my doubts because the terminals on the LEDs are meant for a robot to install them on a circuit board so the terminals are the size of a pin head or smaller.

Now to make the enclosure for the drivers and get a heater core.

Progressing well then Paul.

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I decided to build my heat exchanger so I just ordered a bunch of 5/16" rigid copper tubing. I realize I could use a heater core but after seeing these things work, I don't think I will need that much cooling. I would also rather build the thing myself.

 

2015-02-14%2006.54.34_zpszumequ1j.jpg

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I agree Albert, technology is making for lazy reef keepers. When all you are worried about is numbers on a screen and not looking at the tank, there's a problem. I test monthly, salinity every few days.I can look at my tank and see what it's missing, if that doesn't work, I get out the test kits. I remember when the most advanced piece of kit we had was an ozonizer. I made my own ATO for my 240, a 5 gallon bucket with a needle valve. I don't do electricity at all, my friends call me Magic Smoke Rob, lol.

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