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"New" Coralife BioCube 14 Setup Questions/Comments


rknott

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I have been reading for days and have just about reached my limit so I am going to go ahead and kick of yet another thread with questions that have likely been answered somewhere in the vast amounts of information in this forum as well as others. I have been readying through this thread as a guide (among others) http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=180788 Problem I am having is much of the information appears to be targeted to the previous models. I have the new Coralife BioCube 14 that supports the extra LED slot (that evidentially you can't buy the LEDs for) and the larger pump . . . .

 

If you haven't figured it out already I am totally new to salt. I have been running a freshwater 20 gal tank for 2 years and I have a 10 gal tank in my sons room.

 

Question 1: It is clear from 1,000s of comments the bio balls have to go. I am just getting going by setting up my tank with fresh water to test it out. I took out the bio balls, but the water is "crashing" down the 2nd chamber and way to noisy to deal with. Once I fill it up with cheto will that stop?

 

Question 2: There appears to be mixed opinions if if I should stick live rock in chamber 2. Some say it generates nitrates, some say you should stick it in there. I plan on making chaber to a refugium like everyone. Should I stick live rock in chamber 2? Recomendations on a light I should I use in chamber 2?

 

Question 3: Should I buy a skimmer? I assume I should.

 

Question 4: Should I by a heater? I can't imagine not having a heater, but local fish store said I might not need one. Doesn't the water temp drastically fluctuate night and day when the lights are going on and off? As a point of reference we keep our house around 68, but in the summer it will get as warm as 80+ until I finally break down and turn on the A/C. That usually only lasts for a day or 2. Am I asking for problems? Maybe I will know after a few days of running my fresh water through it?

 

Question 5: Should I toss the standard filter that goes in chamber 1? It isn't clear to me how the purigin filter is loged in chaber 1 in the guide referenced above.

 

Question 6: Should I get an additional pump for water flow (given I have the new set up I don't see a clear answer for this anywhere).

 

Answer 1 (I think): I don't plan on sticking fish or coral in the tank for a long time (month+) I would like to get the tank cycled, refugium going. . . . long before adding fish/coral. Sound right?

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TeflonTomDosh
I have been reading for days and have just about reached my limit so I am going to go ahead and kick of yet another thread with questions that have likely been answered somewhere in the vast amounts of information in this forum as well as others. I have been readying through this thread as a guide (among others) http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=180788 Problem I am having is much of the information appears to be targeted to the previous models. I have the new Coralife BioCube 14 that supports the extra LED slot (that evidentially you can't buy the LEDs for) and the larger pump . . . .

 

If you haven't figured it out already I am totally new to salt. I have been running a freshwater 20 gal tank for 2 years and I have a 10 gal tank in my sons room.

 

Question 1: It is clear from 1,000s of comments the bio balls have to go. I am just getting going by setting up my tank with fresh water to test it out. I took out the bio balls, but the water is "crashing" down the 2nd chamber and way to noisy to deal with. Once I fill it up with cheto will that stop?

 

Question 2: There appears to be mixed opinions if if I should stick live rock in chamber 2. Some say it generates nitrates, some say you should stick it in there. I plan on making chaber to a refugium like everyone. Should I stick live rock in chamber 2? Recomendations on a light I should I use in chamber 2?

 

Question 3: Should I buy a skimmer? I assume I should.

 

Question 4: Should I by a heater? I can't imagine not having a heater, but local fish store said I might not need one. Doesn't the water temp drastically fluctuate night and day when the lights are going on and off? As a point of reference we keep our house around 68, but in the summer it will get as warm as 80+ until I finally break down and turn on the A/C. That usually only lasts for a day or 2. Am I asking for problems? Maybe I will know after a few days of running my fresh water through it?

 

Question 5: Should I toss the standard filter that goes in chamber 1? It isn't clear to me how the purigin filter is loged in chaber 1 in the guide referenced above.

 

Question 6: Should I get an additional pump for water flow (given I have the new set up I don't see a clear answer for this anywhere).

 

Answer 1 (I think): I don't plan on sticking fish or coral in the tank for a long time (month+) I would like to get the tank cycled, refugium going. . . . long before adding fish/coral. Sound right?

Since I'm bored and awake, I'll go ahead and take a stab at this...

 

The previous model you refer to, is actually the same model, new branding, and the LED slots are the only difference, maybe a few of the buttons on the top too. But no structural changes.

 

1 - once you put a steve t media basket in chamber 1 (highly recommended) media baskets it will slow the flow down a bit and you shouldnt experience that.

 

2 - do neither, leave it empty, or make it a fuge as you planned on doing anyways. Eitther use the submersible light from the same website above, or one of the jbj nano glows.

 

3 - most on here with cubes of that size don't use a skimmer, they do weekly water changes. Me, I do about 20% wc every sunday, no need for a skimmer.

 

4 - I keep my house @ 70 in the summer (Florida) so i have a heater in the same chamber that my return pump is in. I would recommend you get one as well. 50w would be ample

 

5 - that media basket will replace the included filter cartridge they give with the cube

 

6 - I upgraded my pump to a maxi jet 1200 which provides quite a bit of flow. It's throttled via a hydor water deflector (highly recommened and eliminates the need for a powerhead within the tank) so it's not on "full blast" but I'd say to upgrade the original

 

Hope all this helps and most importantly..

 

:welcome:

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Reef Hollister

Pretty much what Tom said on all of them except #6. The Maxi-Jet 900 is the most popular upgrade from the stock pump that most Biocube owners opt for.

 

I also highly recommend the Intake media basket and JBJ Nano GLow.

 

Not only is a skimmer not needed if you do your weekly water changes, but it is hard to find a decent one that will fit in the BC 14.

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I have been reading for days and have just about reached my limit so I am going to go ahead and kick of yet another thread with questions that have likely been answered somewhere in the vast amounts of information in this forum as well as others. I have been readying through this thread as a guide (among others) http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=180788 Problem I am having is much of the information appears to be targeted to the previous models. I have the new Coralife BioCube 14 that supports the extra LED slot (that evidentially you can't buy the LEDs for) and the larger pump . . . .

 

If you haven't figured it out already I am totally new to salt. I have been running a freshwater 20 gal tank for 2 years and I have a 10 gal tank in my sons room.

 

Question 1: It is clear from 1,000s of comments the bio balls have to go. I am just getting going by setting up my tank with fresh water to test it out. I took out the bio balls, but the water is "crashing" down the 2nd chamber and way to noisy to deal with. Once I fill it up with cheto will that stop? Cheto is a pain in a nano, and is not worth it in a small tank. Add more water or put the bio balls back in. Having bio balls in a small aquarium is a good idea if you don't have ample space for LR.

 

Question 2: There appears to be mixed opinions if if I should stick live rock in chamber 2. Some say it generates nitrates, some say you should stick it in there. I plan on making chaber to a refugium like everyone. Should I stick live rock in chamber 2? Recomendations on a light I should I use in chamber 2? Same as question 1, water changes are more important the smaller you go. You are making this harder than it needs to be, put a skimmer in chamber 2 if you just wanna blow some money

 

Question 3: Should I buy a skimmer? I assume I should. Water changes are key. A skimmer will allow you to put a larger gap between them but, but if you changed 2 gallons every week you would not need a skimmer, a fuge, chato, or have to add any chemicals. (as long as you are using RO/DI water and a quality salt)

 

Question 4: Should I by a heater? I can't imagine not having a heater, but local fish store said I might not need one. Doesn't the water temp drastically fluctuate night and day when the lights are going on and off? As a point of reference we keep our house around 68, but in the summer it will get as warm as 80+ until I finally break down and turn on the A/C. That usually only lasts for a day or 2. Am I asking for problems? Maybe I will know after a few days of running my fresh water through it? Yes, find your tanks natural temp. If it is 80 deg keep it at 80 and run the heater at night. Corals can stand a 1-3 degree temp swing, but stability is key.

 

Question 5: Should I toss the standard filter that goes in chamber 1? It isn't clear to me how the purigin filter is loged in chaber 1 in the guide referenced above. I use filter floss; makes my water very clear, along with good carbon and phosban. I use to use chemi-pure but, it is overpriced and my results are better with the 2 stated above.

 

Question 6: Should I get an additional pump for water flow (given I have the new set up I don't see a clear answer for this anywhere). Yes, I have an MP10 in my 24 gal nano. It is a great pump and am glad I spent the cash. For your tank a Korilla nano 425 on the opposite side of the outlet will work great.

 

Answer 1 (I think): I don't plan on sticking fish or coral in the tank for a long time (month+) I would like to get the tank cycled, refugium going. . . . long before adding fish/coral. Sound right?

 

 

I am sure that you will get plenty of answers on this post on what you should do and what others have done. Honestly its up to you, I just put down what I did and it worked for me. You will find that information in this hobby is very conflicting and sometimes is out right wrong. Take what I said with a grain of salt and keep reading and, enjoy your new hobby.

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kugelblitz

Hey my first post! Kennys advice was right on the money. My 14 is moded out with a nanotuners led cree upgrade to bad they are gone. Please get the media basket and upgrade your return pump. I use a Pico evo.mag its small and the flow rate is 300 gph runs cool. Please use RODI water you will save youself alot of problems! Hope i helped and good luck with your tank!

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One of the bigger issues most have with the biocube is cooling. I know the new ones say they have improved cooling but I'm interested to see what your temps are with the stock setup.

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kugelblitz
One of the bigger issues most have with the biocube is cooling. I know the new ones say they have improved cooling but I'm interested to see what your temps are with the stock setup.

Yea the ballasts run hot as do the lights. in the future try to upgrade to leds much cooler and better light

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Thanks for all the replies, welcome and encouragement. It is clear there are a bunch of people in this forum that are passionate about this hobby and extending their experiences to others. I hope I can do the same when I have some.

 

Comments:

1: Media basket is cool. $45 for a piece of plastic? ouch, but a VERY cool piece of plastic. It is similar to the 3 stage filters I have been working with in my fresh water tanks and I can see why it is so much better than the out of the box solution. Trying to think of a good substitute (cheaper) but I can’t seem to think of one that will work as nicely as this. My plan is to go with floss (or filter) on top, Chemi Pure in the middle, and Chato in the bottom (option 2). The pics show this in chamber 2 not chamber 1.

 

2: 10w light looks cheaper than the Coralife mini light and fits in the tank hidden away. A much better solution.

 

3: I will probably go with skimmer with the Coralife skimmer the event I miss a weekly water change here or there. Given I have 3 kids things get pretty crazy periodically. Assumption is it will fit.

 

4: Heater seems like a no brainer to keep the temperature even. Not sure why the guy in the fish store said it is unlikely to be needed. Checked temperature after leaving just the night time light on for 24 hours and it is a cool 73 degrees. House is 70 right now. Not sure why the water is more than 70 given the LED night light doesn’t generate any heat. I am wondering if my thermometer is bad. I turned the other 2 lights on at 6:00. It is now 10:15 and temperature looks to be about 76 degrees now. Tough to get a perfect reading with my old thermometer, but it definitely warms up, and quickly. I will be leaving the light on until 11:30 or so when I go to bed and see how hot it gets. I might leave it on all day tomorrow and see what happens. I can see where heat might be the enemy here. I am trying to envision how hot the tank will get if my house gets up to 80+ at some point. My coral might get a couple of cloudy days? 

 

5: Filter will hit the trash. I guess that leaves the entire first section empty.

 

6: Maxi jet puts out 230 gph and the stock jet puts out 180. Does 50 gph make that much difference? Also, will I be limited on coral without a second small jet somewhere on the other side of the tank? Seems like 2 smaller jets would be better than 1 big one. Possible the look won’t be a clean? Or are we going for more filtering?

 

Other comment: Thanks for the tip on the RODI water. To get things going I will be buying water from my local fish shop $1/gal for premix salt for round 1 makes sense to this newbie. pure = good. Still to aquire buckets.

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More importantly, what are you planning on keeping. That will play a huge part in determining what equipment: pump, lighting and filtration you will need. $45 is worth it. Quality product. It's my understanding chaeto need to roll around and not just stuffed in there. Mine didn't do too well in the fuge for my bc29. Once you dump the bio balls you can raise the water level almost to the top to get rid of the waterfall effect.

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Premixed saltwater from the fish store is a good way to start but be sure to test the water before you put it in. I just started a new BC14 about a month ago and was using premixed from the LFS. Got it home and it tested at 1.022 and 7.8 Ph. I'm assuming they didn't mix it right and when I called them out on it they made the excuse that it was RO water :huh: . Anyways I decided right then that it was better off trusting myself over them and bought an RO/DI system and will be mixing my own from now on.

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Ordered media basket, floss, light, Chemi Pure. Now I wait. The other stuff I can get after tank is running for real at the local shop.

 

Tip for newbies, don't plan on putting your tank right next to a chair because the fan is annoyingly loud when you are sitting right next to it.

 

Thanks for the tip on the salt water. Maybe I will do the salt myself and just buy the RO water for 50 cents per gallon. Will be good dry run on making salt water with no fish to kill.

 

For those wondering, I left all the lights on all night and tank topped out at 76 degrees. With no thermometer tank seems to fluxuate between 73 (at night with no lights and house around 68) and 76 with all the lights on and the house round 70.

 

Really glad I did a test run with fresh water. Outside of checking for leakes I learned Putting the aquarium on an end table is a horrible idea for a variety of reasons (I have ordered the stand that goes with the tank):

* Kids can reach the tank lid, open it and mess around with the water.

* It is too low to see when standing. Initially I thought I wouldn't care because I would observe the tank from my chair. Wrong!

* Too noisy with the fan running assuming your end table is next to a chair.

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the stock oceanic stands are crap. they look nice but aren't that sturdy. i have one on my BC29 (and had one on my BC14) and am very nervous about it. they are just pressed wood. if you are handy a DIY stand would be safer. the tank weighs about 100lbs. filled.

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SerenityReef
the stock oceanic stands are crap. they look nice but aren't that sturdy. i have one on my BC29 (and had one on my BC14) and am very nervous about it. they are just pressed wood. if you are handy a DIY stand would be safer. the tank weighs about 100lbs. filled.

 

I picked up a stand for the BC29 for my BC14, at half the size I feel pretty confident with the stand.

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Thanks for all the replies, welcome and encouragement. It is clear there are a bunch of people in this forum that are passionate about this hobby and extending their experiences to others. I hope I can do the same when I have some.

 

Comments:

1: Media basket is cool. $45 for a piece of plastic? ouch, but a VERY cool piece of plastic. It is similar to the 3 stage filters I have been working with in my fresh water tanks and I can see why it is so much better than the out of the box solution. Trying to think of a good substitute (cheaper) but I can’t seem to think of one that will work as nicely as this. My plan is to go with floss (or filter) on top, Chemi Pure in the middle, and Chato in the bottom (option 2). The pics show this in chamber 2 not chamber 1.

 

2: 10w light looks cheaper than the Coralife mini light and fits in the tank hidden away. A much better solution.

 

3: I will probably go with skimmer with the Coralife skimmer the event I miss a weekly water change here or there. Given I have 3 kids things get pretty crazy periodically. Assumption is it will fit.

 

4: Heater seems like a no brainer to keep the temperature even. Not sure why the guy in the fish store said it is unlikely to be needed. Checked temperature after leaving just the night time light on for 24 hours and it is a cool 73 degrees. House is 70 right now. Not sure why the water is more than 70 given the LED night light doesn’t generate any heat. I am wondering if my thermometer is bad. I turned the other 2 lights on at 6:00. It is now 10:15 and temperature looks to be about 76 degrees now. Tough to get a perfect reading with my old thermometer, but it definitely warms up, and quickly. I will be leaving the light on until 11:30 or so when I go to bed and see how hot it gets. I might leave it on all day tomorrow and see what happens. I can see where heat might be the enemy here. I am trying to envision how hot the tank will get if my house gets up to 80+ at some point. My coral might get a couple of cloudy days? 

 

5: Filter will hit the trash. I guess that leaves the entire first section empty.

 

6: Maxi jet puts out 230 gph and the stock jet puts out 180. Does 50 gph make that much difference? Also, will I be limited on coral without a second small jet somewhere on the other side of the tank? Seems like 2 smaller jets would be better than 1 big one. Possible the look won’t be a clean? Or are we going for more filtering?

 

Other comment: Thanks for the tip on the RODI water. To get things going I will be buying water from my local fish shop $1/gal for premix salt for round 1 makes sense to this newbie. pure = good. Still to aquire buckets.

Yes,the media baskets are a bit steep sell more if the price comes down just a suggestion... :) i might even buy one...

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The MJ900 is ideal because it has more flow and produces less heat.

The stock pump says 180 but is closer to 150 the MJ900 is closer to 220.

 

Generally speaking during the day with your tank lights on the tank will be 1-2 degrees higher then your room tempature.

 

The media basket is the best purchase for the tank and and oceanic skimmer is 100% garbage.

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The MJ900 is ideal because it has more flow and produces less heat.

The stock pump says 180 but is closer to 150 the MJ900 is closer to 220.

 

Generally speaking during the day with your tank lights on the tank will be 1-2 degrees higher then your room tempature.

 

The media basket is the best purchase for the tank and and oceanic skimmer is 100% garbage.

 

thanks for the Tip. I am learning quickly heat is the enemy. When I unplugged the pump completely it was clear how much the heat the pump was adding. Stock pump was adding closer to 3 or maybe 4 degrees. It also validated the reading of my 20 year old thermometer that matched the room temperature exactly.

 

Next thing to buy is the 900. Still waiting for my other 2 orders. Have drained the fresh water out of the tank at this point. Might pick up the RO water and salt at the store today. Tired of reading about marine aquariums and ready to have one!

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Got all my packages on Monday, AWESOME!! Spent 4 hours the last 2 nights getting stand put together, powerstrips set up, cords labeled, salt water made . . . . . . .

 

My fresh water fish now have some company.

 

I didn't like the fact I had to start cutting apart my brand new $200 tank to install the media basket. After I got tired of struggling with the razor blade like the vidio showed I grabbed the Cutco scissors and simply cut the plastic. When I broke the piece off it wasn't totally strait so I did some fine tuning with a pair of large toe nail clippers. Came out pretty good.

 

Question, there is a fair amount of water that is able to slip by on the back side. Is that typical? Any way to prevent that? I made sure to not cut the hole to big and it is a pretty tight fit. Refer to picture #3.

post-74756-1339643154_thumb.jpg

post-74756-1339643491_thumb.jpg

post-74756-1339643504_thumb.jpg

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I just put a piece of filter floss behind it so that the water gets some sort of filtration but is shouldn't be enough to cause a problem.

 

Otherwise everything is looking nice.

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Got all my packages on Monday, AWESOME!! Spent 4 hours the last 2 nights getting stand put together, powerstrips set up, cords labeled, salt water made . . . . . . .

 

My fresh water fish now have some company.

 

I didn't like the fact I had to start cutting apart my brand new $200 tank to install the media basket. After I got tired of struggling with the razor blade like the vidio showed I grabbed the Cutco scissors and simply cut the plastic. When I broke the piece off it wasn't totally strait so I did some fine tuning with a pair of large toe nail clippers. Came out pretty good.

 

Question, there is a fair amount of water that is able to slip by on the back side. Is that typical? Any way to prevent that? I made sure to not cut the hole to big and it is a pretty tight fit. Refer to picture #3.

should of used a dremel tool to cut plastic works much better...

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should of used a dremel tool to cut plastic works much better...

 

Don't have a dremel tool.

 

Got the live rock and sand today. Picked up 10 pounds of live rock (for now) based on advice from the store. Also picked up 10 pounds of live sand. I probably did the sand incorrectly. I put it in first based on what the guy in the store told me (okay so far), but I am guessing I should have turned off the pump. Made a giant mess, what I was expecting, but I am now wondering if I filled up my floss with sand residue, not to mention what got around my media container and into the bottom filter and possibly the pump? Oh well.

 

Once the dust settles I will set up the rocks.

 

I also set the timer for 10 hours of light with and extra hour on each end with the blue lights on. I am guessing I don't need the extra hours on each end, but I did that because I think I am done messing with my timers. Is that the correct amount of light to start the cycling process?

 

Picture below is 5 hours after adding the sand. Rock was simply put in the tank for now. Planning to stack it once I can see in there.

post-74756-1339736431_thumb.jpg

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Don't have a dremel tool.

 

Got the live rock and sand today. Picked up 10 pounds of live rock (for now) based on advice from the store. Also picked up 10 pounds of live sand. I probably did the sand incorrectly. I put it in first based on what the guy in the store told me (okay so far), but I am guessing I should have turned off the pump. Made a giant mess, what I was expecting, but I am now wondering if I filled up my floss with sand residue, not to mention what got around my media container and into the bottom filter and possibly the pump? Oh well.

 

Once the dust settles I will set up the rocks.

 

I also set the timer for 10 hours of light with and extra hour on each end with the blue lights on. I am guessing I don't need the extra hours on each end, but I did that because I think I am done messing with my timers. Is that the correct amount of light to start the cycling process?

 

Picture below is 5 hours after adding the sand. Rock was simply put in the tank for now. Planning to stack it once I can see in there.

 

 

Dust settled and after setting up the rocks, not liking it, too cloudy to see in there for several hours, moving them around, couldn't see, moving them around, couldn't see . . . . I finally settled on the pic below. Possible problem I see is minimal spots for coral other than the top layer. Plan on getting another piece of live rock in the future to be be in front of the main stack.

 

Set up light cycle to run for 7 hours. Not sure how long I should have it running for. Looking around there seems to be conflicting opinions on 1 hour to keep algae growth down and 12 hours to keep whatever misc things alive that might be on the rock.

post-74756-1339864487_thumb.jpg

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Tank seems to be cycling nicely, although I was surprized to see the amonia dropping today instead of going up. Is this because the live rock is cured? LHS said their rock was in various stages of curing. I am seeing purple, but no brown algae as I was told I would see in the early stages.

 

Amonia after 3 days was .5. After 5 days .25. Nitrite and Nitrate at 0.

 

Have been monitoring the temperature 2 times per day every day. It appears the water in the tank is running 8 degrees above room temperature when the room temprature is stable. It isn't at all clear to me how the standard aquarium keeper that doesn't live in these forums and totally mod out his out of the box aquarium is able to be successful. My house hit 77 degrees last week (I don't cosider that hot) and the tank hit 84. Either people just live with a tank hitting 88+ degrees (and potentially suffer die offs) or they are installing coolers. Installing a cooler for this little 14 gallon aquarium seems completely over the top. I will try to limp along with fans, but I am confident my tank will be running much hotter than I had planned when my house hits 80+ this summer. Any recommendations on a fan and how to set it up? Prop the lid? I need to do some research on this.

 

EDIT: Found this: http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?...p;#entry3800149 What a project! Not what I had in mind. Each time I cut apart my tank it gives me a sick feeling. Better than the other options found to date (replace the hood . . . )

 

I am seeing water flowing right over the top of the media basket because it is getting backed up behind the floss. Changed the floss, but that didn't help. Need to do some research on this as well.

 

Haven't seen any critters cruising around. Bummed about that.

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The majority of the water is making it into the basket. Some spill over is normal as we can not form fit the piece to the tank. It comes back again in a few minutes to make it in the basket. The chemical media is underwater so it is always "filtering"

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The majority of the water is making it into the basket. Some spill over is normal as we can not form fit the piece to the tank. It comes back again in a few minutes to make it in the basket. The chemical media is underwater so it is always "filtering"

 

Thanks for the confirmation I am doing everything correctly! And numerous posts!

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Looking good! Good start so far!

As for the water slipping by the basket water-director thingy haha, you could drain some water back there, use some super gel glue to kind of silicone the area, wait like 10 minutes to let the glue settle, put water back in and it should stop the water from going through there.

I have a 14 gallon biocube also, been having some fun with it :D

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