Getting rid of nutrients/algae in tank
Posted 06 May 2012 - 08:20 PM
Posted 06 May 2012 - 10:02 PM
What that does is fuel the bacteria that process nutrient into skimmable organics(nitrate-eating bacteria), which needs to be skimmed out or will cause other problems...
If your talking about adding activated carbon in a reactor, that will do nothing really for nitrates( or even phosphates unless you run gfo or similar).
Edited by CoralWhisperer, 06 May 2012 - 10:07 PM.
god you cali guys suck so bad with your overabundance of awesome corals. damn you!! lol
Posted 07 May 2012 - 08:22 AM
Posted 07 May 2012 - 09:16 AM
Posted 07 May 2012 - 08:27 PM
Posted 07 May 2012 - 10:58 PM
Posted 08 May 2012 - 12:29 AM
Also, if your phosphates read 0 but you have algae it's because the algae is eating all the phosphates so it reads zero but in actuality you do have phosphates. They are just consumed at the amount in which they are produced.
Your flow is pretty low. 225gph is not a lot for a 20 gallon. Buy a powerhead/auto-top off and call it a day. Unless your skimmer is crap. What kind is it? Do you have a sump or at least a fuge?
You definitely need snails over crabs. Crabs are not doing much for you as the only members of your CUC. So you need a good amount of snails. Run chemi-pure elite. You need some form of mechanical filtration. I run chemi-pure elite, a protein skimmer, a good CUC, and a fuge. That's ideal.
Edited by matt frizz, 08 May 2012 - 12:34 AM.
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Posted 08 May 2012 - 07:09 AM
Posted 08 May 2012 - 08:12 AM
Given the fact that you are having hair algae issues you have some phosphates in the water. Test kits will either test for organic or inorganic phoshpates -no test will do both. Is the hair your main issue or is it localized? If it is localized to a power head or something don't sweat it. If hair is main problem there is a white granulated substance that looks like GAC that removes phoshpates. There are a few different things on the market, the best stuff I have found can be baked in the oven and reused (I never reuse it). When it first comes into contact with water it heats and smokes, so be sure to rinse it before putting it into your tank! The stuff is awesome. Have used it a few time and recended it to others that have had a lot of success. Make sure to pull as much algae as you can by hand otherwise you will be looking at sme serious die-off issues. Also if you nitrates ARE high when you run the test, I might hold off on getting rid of the hair until you get that in check. Otherwise the algae that grows in its place to consume the nitrates might be worse than the hair.
Hope this helps. While your tank is slightly "off" I would not start experimenting with other filter systems nor vodka.
PS the tap water is most likely your problem. The stuff above will not be a long term solution... If you use it and stop using tap H2O you probably wont have this issue again.
Edited by printerdown01, 08 May 2012 - 08:18 AM.
Posted 08 May 2012 - 08:21 AM
One thing to keep in mind...something everyone seems to forget. If you have algae in your tank, when you test for nitrates and phosphates they will, essentially, read lower than they really are. Algae consumes them...
You could very well be adding nitrate/phosphate to your tank via the water (not all filters remove it completely) and salt mix. May test low or even zero, but it really isn't Just something to keep in mind!
Posted 10 May 2012 - 03:15 PM
Posted 11 May 2012 - 03:37 PM
Posted 12 May 2012 - 09:41 AM
Post up a full tank shot pls even if just from a cellphone
Got that way by:
Problem algae growth has nothing to do with excess of anything in many natural settings and in most reef tanks its not a nutrient issue, its due to purposely letting it take over. algae is present on zero po4 natural reefs simply where grazers haven't grazed, so how is po4 the root of all invasions?
Quit chasing phosphate. Last decade was nitrate, neither are the key to preventing tank invasions. become your own grazer