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Cynobacteria help


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#1
Kazooie

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I've been upping my water changes to 20% a week, and having an even shorter light cycle (8 hours now). Constantly blowing water on the sand and rocks with a turkey baster, but this stuff still won't go away! I could put up with it if it stayed on the sand, but it's growing on the corals too!
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I have my mp10 running 70%ish and it get's a nice flow over both the rock and sand, so I'm not sure what the problem is.

What can I do to get rid of it, and save my corals?

If you were into the puberty phase, you'd be a ####ing neckbeard. Get out of here you ####ing tween #### ##### ass mother####er stupid ##### bastard ####er chicken leg pride rally supporter. Get out of here with your poverty opinions you ####ing ice cream sandwich stupid #### ##### alter ego reported for harassing me and I messaged the FBI and I left Obama a voicemail and wrote a postcard to your parents.
Enjoy not posting you giant neckbeard looooser.

Do you even logic?

 

thanks jen. i have him on ignore so i don't get sick whenever he's craving attention. kazooie, to be honest the world would be better off without you and your parents will actually be happy when they discover you lifeless in the bathtub with slit wrists. HTH

 


#2
Tenor

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I used Red slime remover from Chemi clean to remover them. I got them from time to time if I did over feeding. I haven't used this product on Acro but already used on Torch, Frogspawn, hammer and softies, Zoas and did not have any negative effect on them.

Red slime can disappear in 2 days.

Check out my feedback:  http://www.nano-reef...back-for-tenor/


#3
mike c

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Where do you get your water from? An LFS? Check your source of water, before going the chemical route. I had cyano issues, and GHA issues...and it all stopped within a couple weeks of changing my water source. I dont know if the LFS I got it from had a bad RO/DI, cheap salt, who knows, but even their store tanks had GHA. Test your new water for phosphates, nitrates, salinity, etc. You might be feeding your tank the problem, like I was.

If you do decide to use a chemical, its only temporary. It'll kill whats in your tank, but the issue that caused the cyano in the first place is still there.

Edited by mike c, 13 April 2012 - 12:31 PM.


#4
brandon429

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Kazooie based on writing you should ask hecticdialectics he can clean any tank of anything apparently.

one very old pico

 


#5
Kazooie

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I used Red slime remover from Chemi clean to remover them. I got them from time to time if I did over feeding. I haven't used this product on Acro but already used on Torch, Frogspawn, hammer and softies, Zoas and did not have any negative effect on them.

Red slime can disappear in 2 days.

That sounds like a great product, but I'm hesitant to put chems in the tank. I'll save that as a last resort. :scarry:

Where do you get your water from? An LFS? Check your source of water, before going the chemical route. I had cyano issues, and GHA issues...and it all stopped within a couple weeks of changing my water source. I dont know if the LFS I got it from had a bad RO/DI, cheap salt, who knows, but even their store tanks had GHA. Test your new water for phosphates, nitrates, salinity, etc. You might be feeding your tank the problem, like I was.

If you do decide to use a chemical, its only temporary. It'll kill whats in your tank, but the issue that caused the cyano in the first place is still there.

Water, that makes sense. I'm a little ashamed to admit it, but I haven't ever used RO/DI. :blush: And that would explain why it doesn't go away, despite constant water changes and less light. Do you know if those giant blue jugs you can buy at walmart on places are good enough? My lfs doesn't sell water for some reason. Peco does though... :huh:

Kazooie based on writing you should ask hecticdialectics he can clean any tank of anything apparently.

I'm not sure if you were trying to be helpful or just making a joke in poor taste.

If you were into the puberty phase, you'd be a ####ing neckbeard. Get out of here you ####ing tween #### ##### ass mother####er stupid ##### bastard ####er chicken leg pride rally supporter. Get out of here with your poverty opinions you ####ing ice cream sandwich stupid #### ##### alter ego reported for harassing me and I messaged the FBI and I left Obama a voicemail and wrote a postcard to your parents.
Enjoy not posting you giant neckbeard looooser.

Do you even logic?

 

thanks jen. i have him on ignore so i don't get sick whenever he's craving attention. kazooie, to be honest the world would be better off without you and your parents will actually be happy when they discover you lifeless in the bathtub with slit wrists. HTH

 


#6
mike c

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Any filtered water is going to better than tap :slap: , even Petco. At the least, get water from a vending machine, at best, invest in a cheap RO system. I almost positive its your water, now that you said that.

#7
nor_cal_nano

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Water, that makes sense. I'm a little ashamed to admit it, but I haven't ever used RO/DI. :blush: And that would explain why it doesn't go away, despite constant water changes and less light.


Derp.

Distilled from wally world sounds like your best choice.

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#8
Alexraptor

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I solved my Cyano problem by initiating a complete blackout of my reef for 72 hours.
Followed by a major 40% water change before turning the lighting back on.
That was last year, have not had any cyano problems since.

Its like once it gets a solid foothold its almost impossible to get rid of.

Edited by Alexraptor, 13 April 2012 - 12:53 PM.


#9
doppelganger

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you running a fuge? might also try running the lights 24/7 if you don't already or maybe temporary more powerful bulb to try and excel the growth of cheato.

You teenie bopper's thread have too may pages of random nonsense banter... I can't find if ur even running a fuge with cheato or not. Anyways just an idea you might want to try in conjunction with some other thoughts already given.
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#10
Kazooie

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Any filtered water is going to better than tap :slap: , even Petco. At the least, get water from a vending machine, at best, invest in a cheap RO system. I almost positive its your water, now that you said that.

I've wanted to get one for more than a year now, but things always pp up. :blush: I WILL be getting one by the end of this summer though, I hope. :lol:

Derp.

Distilled from wally world sounds like your best choice.

Yeah, I guess that was a big fail on my part. -_-

I solved my Cyano problem by initiating a complete blackout of my reef for 72 hours.
Followed by a major 40% water change before turning the lighting back on.
That was last year, have not had any cyano problems since.

Its like once it gets a solid foothold its almost impossible to get rid of.

Eek! Last time I did a fullon no lights it killed like 3 sps's. :eek:

you running a fuge? might also try running the lights 24/7 if you don't already or maybe temporary more powerful bulb to try and excel the growth of cheato.

You teenie bopper's thread have too may pages of random nonsense banter... I can't find if ur even running a fuge with cheato or not. Anyways just an idea you might want to try in conjunction with some other thoughts already given.

That's a good idea! I am currently running a fuge with a clump of chaeto about 6 inches across in all directions. There's also a rock of gsp of the same size, and some misc little frags in there.

So this'll be my plan:
Start getting water from somewhere with a RO/DI unit.
Keep the fuge on 20/7
And get my own RO/DI filter sometime in the near future.

And if those don't work then I'll try having no lights, then the chemie's if that doesn't.
Sound like it'll work?

If you were into the puberty phase, you'd be a ####ing neckbeard. Get out of here you ####ing tween #### ##### ass mother####er stupid ##### bastard ####er chicken leg pride rally supporter. Get out of here with your poverty opinions you ####ing ice cream sandwich stupid #### ##### alter ego reported for harassing me and I messaged the FBI and I left Obama a voicemail and wrote a postcard to your parents.
Enjoy not posting you giant neckbeard looooser.

Do you even logic?

 

thanks jen. i have him on ignore so i don't get sick whenever he's craving attention. kazooie, to be honest the world would be better off without you and your parents will actually be happy when they discover you lifeless in the bathtub with slit wrists. HTH

 


#11
mike c

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Do you run Chemi-Pure (Elite), and Purigen? Try adding those to your system, you'll see a big difference. Skimmer? I run my skimmer 24/7 (Eshopps 75h, on a 28g), and change my Chemi-Pure and Purigen every 3-4 months, with fantastic results. I also feed pretty heavy, dose phtyo, oyster feast, Coral Frenzy, and sometimes Coral Smoothie...lol. So I kinda have to. BUT, no algae...except for the ridiculous growth of coralline.

Edited by mike c, 13 April 2012 - 01:51 PM.


#12
Kazooie

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Yeah, I'm running Elite, as well as an AquaC Remora 24/7. Probably should get a new chemi-pure soon, this one was from November.

If you were into the puberty phase, you'd be a ####ing neckbeard. Get out of here you ####ing tween #### ##### ass mother####er stupid ##### bastard ####er chicken leg pride rally supporter. Get out of here with your poverty opinions you ####ing ice cream sandwich stupid #### ##### alter ego reported for harassing me and I messaged the FBI and I left Obama a voicemail and wrote a postcard to your parents.
Enjoy not posting you giant neckbeard looooser.

Do you even logic?

 

thanks jen. i have him on ignore so i don't get sick whenever he's craving attention. kazooie, to be honest the world would be better off without you and your parents will actually be happy when they discover you lifeless in the bathtub with slit wrists. HTH

 


#13
mike c

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Yeah, I'm running Elite, as well as an AquaC Remora 24/7. Probably should get a new chemi-pure soon, this one was from November.


Check out Blue Lifes FX Pro. Its pretty good stuff, and about $8 cheaper than ChemiPure. I used it for a few months, but went back to ChemiPure only cause my LFS's didnt stock it. They do now, so Im gonna go back to it.

Edited by mike c, 13 April 2012 - 03:25 PM.


#14
iball1804

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Siphon it out! And then do WC's, WC's and WC's!

#15
devilsadvocate

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100% WC with distilled water. then 48 hour black out. then 25% WC. worked for me.

#16
Rollenbor

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100% WC with distilled water. then 48 hour black out. then 25% WC. worked for me.

I was starting to get cyno and I added a nano reactor with phosban and it was all gone within a week on a 30gl Nuvo.

#17
jec11718

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hey devilsadv...100% wc....wow how did your fish handle it? if you have any?

#18
Brenda

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Sorry to thread-hijack.. but I have a big cyanobacteria problem too. I do 20% water changes weekly with RO/DI water, and siphon out as much of the stuff as I can, but within a day or so it is all back and overgrowing the tank again.

Should I do daily water changes?

I have a clown, wrasse and zoas at the moment. Are chemicals okay for use in this situation?

I've tried lights out for 2 days and it helped at first, but it all came back. My parameters are within normal limits right now, so I think if I could figure out how to get rid of it, it would be done.

I'm wanting to add more corals to my tank, but I figure I should get this figured out first.

#19
mike c

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Sorry to thread-hijack.. but I have a big cyanobacteria problem too. I do 20% water changes weekly with RO/DI water, and siphon out as much of the stuff as I can, but within a day or so it is all back and overgrowing the tank again.

Should I do daily water changes?

I have a clown, wrasse and zoas at the moment. Are chemicals okay for use in this situation?

I've tried lights out for 2 days and it helped at first, but it all came back. My parameters are within normal limits right now, so I think if I could figure out how to get rid of it, it would be done.

I'm wanting to add more corals to my tank, but I figure I should get this figured out first.


Any pics? Pics and exact Parameters are key. "In the norm" is different to everybody.

#20
brandon429

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Peroxide will absolutely beat cyano regardless of your nutrients, undoubtedly, by simply killing it. But, a tank like kazooies is stocked vs yours Brenda which may be a prefect candidate

Post pics, zos are not harmed. Depending on what pics show, your cure is likely very simple.

You absolutely do not have to strip water of nutrients to battle cyano. It is one option, but as you can see it doesn't always work. Using our peroxide method, it always works, if you have livestock that sports an easy kill which I think yours might Brenda.

Once cyano id killed off, it may or may not come back but once gone it does not require you to continue stripping tank nutrients

My 6 year old tank had never had cyano, even though it can at any time.

one very old pico

 


#21
brandon429

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Kazooie this is what id do if your tank was mine

Optn 1 use no peroxide. A water change/increase flow/focused removal regimen will work but can take longer than this month. Keep going

Optn 2 remove fish, hold separately
Drain all water out, none of your corals will mind. While empty, use a dropper to spot apply peroxide anywhere that's red or green. Dribble some saltwater on your corals if you'd like. Let sit treating for 4 mins

Refill tank 50% with old water from the initial drain, rinsing well any treated areas. Drain out again, then refill with clean saltwater matched to original temp and sg

You may need to repeat once in a month but likely not. acclimate your fish back to the fully changed tank just like it was a new purchase.

Your tank can actually handle a 1:10 dosing we've covered in the thread, but you can see I don't recommend that even though its what most do anyway to save work. The corals you have are not the sensitive ones if you choose this third option.

PS, if you use peroxide as a guaranteed cure, which it is, I'll accept a nice update in my sticky request thread ;)

To recap: any tank with any nutrient level can get cyano it comes from the air. The dieoff you see is from making impactful changes to a tank, but sustaining that condition in no way guarantees it can't come back. Any tank with any nutrient level can get cyano at any time.

one very old pico

 


#22
Alexraptor

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Complete blackouts as I mentioned are equally effective, though may not be ideal with some corals.'

IMO if the livestock can handle it, blackouts are the best possible option, as it is very simple and does not involve the addition of any foreign compounds.

#23
brandon429

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Sure I think that sounds good, just to try something new I might do a day or two a month just to see if it helps with glass cleaning work.


a blackout test run is easy to run on these cyano tanks, the dosing is handy when needed.

Edited by brandon429, 24 April 2012 - 06:05 PM.

one very old pico

 


#24
Brenda

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Any pics? Pics and exact Parameters are key. "In the norm" is different to everybody.


I'll get pics and test my parameters again tomorrow

#25
mike c

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Update?