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24x24x10 Shallow build


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#1
thedoogan

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How do these plans look for the overflow and return holes.

24x24x10_TankFront.jpg


Two 1 1/2" holes for 3/4" bulkheads - Herbie Drainage.
Two 1 1/8" holes for 1/2" bulkhead and return lines which will be loc-line exiting left and right sides of the overflow box.

1 1/2" holes are placed 1 1/2" away from the edge of the glass. There is 1 1/2" space between each and 1 1/8" space between the smaller holes.
OverflowHoles.jpg

How does this look? Suggestions?

Thanks.

#2
savageajc

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Looks good.

I would do away with the internal overflow and go external.
Dremel the back of the tank for the overflow, then build an external overflow out of glass and silicone to back wall of tank. yeeeaaaaahh!

If not, your plans look good.


Nano-reef sucks now. It's full of wannabe mods , mods that don't actually moderate, flamers, and people that just act like children.


dislike thread. dislike idea. dislike savageajc.


Duncans do grow quickly at times. Shouldn't be to hard to talk her into giving you head on the cheap. Being her first time, you could guide her through it.


#3
Jai1985

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following along


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#4
FireCorals

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Looks like this is going to be a nice build, subscribed!
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#5
thedoogan

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Looks good.

I would do away with the internal overflow and go external.
Dremel the back of the tank for the overflow, then build an external overflow out of glass and silicone to back wall of tank. yeeeaaaaahh!

If not, your plans look good.


Although external overflow is a great idea to save some room inside the tank, my plans are to have the tank up against the wall. It will be beside the couch at eye-line for viewing while sitting, with a cold beer or two.

Here are some of my inspirations for this build
Chris George's Silverstrand Reef
AJ_Tsin's 47g Shallow Rimless
Neto's DIY 20g Shallow
Marlon's Nano Project, 24"x24"x12"

I have to get the tank custom built and I'm in the quoting process. Most likely it will have 3 panes of starphire glass. I need to provide the builder with proper dimensions and measurements for drilling the bottom. Do you think 1 1/8" spaces between the drain holes and return holes are enough for the flanges not to touch?
24x24x10_holes.jpg

Standard threaded bulkheads, double threaded or slip? hmmm

Edited by thedoogan, 07 April 2012 - 10:23 AM.


#6
JR!

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following along


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#7
nickjqz

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Standard threaded bulkheads, double threaded or slip? hmmm

I like slip bulkheads that way you can glue PVC right into them. But if you forsee that you will be taking it apart soon or changing the plumbing then you will have utilize the original plumbing/bulkhead because they are attached.

#8
thedoogan

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Well I was quoted from one company for over $1500 to build this tank. I think it's an insane price for a 25 gallon tank :huh: They also said they would use 1/2" thick glass for the build. Does that seen excessive for this size? I plan on using vortech mp10s so that has me a bit worried. I may just end up getting the glass cut and building it myself :lol:

#9
Jai1985

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I hope you laughed at them... it shouldn't cost that much for anything below say, 100 gallons lol

Oh and 10 in deep 1/4 in plate is fine..


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#10
JR!

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call chris at pico aquariums and he can help you.

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#11
myjohnson

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Looks good so far.

Personally I think elos' corner overflow design.

#12
thedoogan

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I have the PSI meter on the blue line between the RO OUT and the ASV IN. I have About 65-70 PSI going into the entire unit, good flow of RO/DI coming out but in this configuration the PSI meter reads 0. Is the height after the T connection to much?
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#13
thedoogan

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I need some help designing the frame for the stand. Option A leaves a lot more room to work in an already cramped stand. My only question is if this design will be structurally solid enough to safely hold the tanks weight? or should I go with option B?

These are all 2x4 dimensions.

Option A
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Option B
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Thanks for any advice!

#14
thedoogan

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Good to know, thanks!