Jump to content


Photo

Help- LED Fixture


  • Please log in to reply
57 replies to this topic

#1
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA

EDIT:

I am building a dimmable LED Fixture for my 12 Gallon Nanocube-

See this post for details. Post #48






----

WARNING- I know very little about DIY or LED's so please be as in depth as possible.

I currently have a 12 Gallon Nanocube.

I want to go topless and put DIY led's over it.

I am thinking of that tank as practice for the larger tank I am planning- 180 gallon mixed reef w/canopy.

So, my question is, what is the best DIY option for my 12 gallon Nanocube and proposed 180 gallon mixed reef?

Thanks- Wizzy :happy:


P.S. Please direct me to any threads, websites, etc that explain the building of DIY led's, show the pros/cons of different brands, etc.

Dimensions-

180- 72" x 24" x 24"

12- Display area is approximately 14.5" x 12"

Whole tank including back compartment is approximately 14.5" x 14.5"

Edited by Wizzy, 28 May 2012 - 08:35 AM.


#2
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA
Bump

#3
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA
Also, how many LEDS would be suitable for a 180 gallon? (also my 12 gallon nanocube)

# of Crees?

# of Bridgelux?


I want a lighting system that has low power consumption and will save me money in the long run.

-Wizzy :happy:

Edited by Wizzy, 06 April 2012 - 07:57 AM.


#4
ajmckay

ajmckay

    Wrasses McGee

  • Members
  • 4,270 posts
  • Joined 30 Oct 2008
  • Sterling Heights, Michigan
So basically you want everyone else to do the research for you? Seriously, there are so many DIY build threads that you should be able to find one that you can use as a starting point very easily.


In the lighting forum there is a sticky "Comprehensive DIY LED project list"... Check that out first. Note that now it's probably not all that comprehensive, but by looking through them you'll get a feel of what people are doing... Then you can use your brain and scale it up/down to fit your particular applications.

I'm not going to lie, but depending on what you want your final results to look like then you may be researching for a while, but it will pay off for you much more than someone just telling you what to buy. Which on the same note if you just want a "Kit" then check out rapidled.com or for a cheap chineese version aquastyleonline.com... There are many other LED suppliers though...

For helpful information on color check out the full spectrul thread and the LED aesthetics thread.

#5
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA

So basically you want everyone else to do the research for you? Seriously, there are so many DIY build threads that you should be able to find one that you can use as a starting point very easily.


In the lighting forum there is a sticky "Comprehensive DIY LED project list"... Check that out first. Note that now it's probably not all that comprehensive, but by looking through them you'll get a feel of what people are doing... Then you can use your brain and scale it up/down to fit your particular applications.

I'm not going to lie, but depending on what you want your final results to look like then you may be researching for a while, but it will pay off for you much more than someone just telling you what to buy. Which on the same note if you just want a "Kit" then check out rapidled.com or for a cheap chineese version aquastyleonline.com... There are many other LED suppliers though...

For helpful information on color check out the full spectrul thread and the LED aesthetics thread.


I don't expect everyone to do the research for me.

I simply feel that many of the Build Threads for LEDS don't explain the simple aspects of the project, probably assuming that the reader knows the basics.

I would like people to condense the information that those threads contain because many of them are long and contain posts by misinformed users (I feel that this could help others as well).

Also, as you have done, I want people to recommend helpful threads.

In my previous post, I also asked about the difference between number of Cree/Bridgelux I would need on my system(s).

From the research I have done it seems that Cree puts out more light, so I wanted to factor that into my decision.

I would like to know more about full spectrum as well and will look at the thread you suggested.

Also, I would like to know what everyone's opinions are on Meanwell v.s. Maxwell Drivers.

I want the best setup possible and am eager to learn as much as I can.

Thanks- Wizzy :happy:

#6
blasterman

blasterman

    Nano Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,815 posts
  • Joined 12 Aug 2009
Most cube guys are looking to retrofit under the hood, but it sounds like you are pulling the top off and going like a rimless, right?

For the 12gal cube eight XT-E royals and four XP-G neutrals arranged in four clusters is more than enough. Actually, if you are going to raise the light with optics and run mostly softies you can probably get away with six / three.

If you plan on messing around with colors and different LEDs the 'MakersLED' sink that's sold at LEDGroupbuy should be your first choice because it will allow you to shuffle LEDs around easily. If Milad is reading this I'm sure he'll agree. That way you can nail your colors and LED choices down on your 12gal, then simply scale out when you go big. I don't use colors other XT-Es royals or high end neutrals, and maybe one or two cool blues, but if you're going to experiment you need a flexible platform.

For the 180 I'd use power / Evil clusters, but we can discuss that when you get there.

The LED Aethestics thread seems to have evolved to promoting more LED colors than a ferris wheel, so I agree it's confusing to read through. Start out with a strong base of colors, aka royal and high quality neutral, and go from there.

#7
Veng

Veng

    Disaster Inc.

  • Premium Members
  • 5,947 posts
  • Joined 06 Jan 2012
I'll bite. This post will probably be biased to what I've decided to use.

Here's some good places to start reading:

LED Aesthetics: What do you really think of your color?
Full spectrum thread

The things you need to figure out on LEDs is as follows:
What color temp are you shooting for
How much do you want to spend
How much light do you need
How much control over the color do you want. The more channels you have, the more control you'll have, but the more it will cost.

Those decisions will drive you down different paths.

What you will need to select for a controllable build is:

Constant Current Drivers(s)
LEDs
Heatsink(s) & fan(s)
Controller(s)

The "top of the line" LEDs right now are the Crees, and are the most widely talked about on the forum.

Within the Cree line, you've got XT-E which are the royal blue that provide most of the light for growth and the whites. There are two whites that differe by the maximum current input which leads to the maximum light output. For something like a 180, you'll want to look at XM-Ls for your NWs (Neutral Whites) driven over 2A, preferably almost 3A. (Drive current determins brightness of the light). For your 12, you'd want XP-G's driven somewhere closer to 1A. as you won't need the intensity to penetrate as deep into the water column.

The drivers (constant current drivers) you chose will determin how bright you can run the LEDs (upto thier maximum), so if you get a 700mA driver (0.7A), then it's near worthless to buy an XM-L that can be run up to 3A, it's only slightly better than a XP-G, but even those you can run hotter than 700mA. The other thing is voltage. LEDs are diodes, which mean there is a fixed voltage drop across them (called Forward Voltage) regardless of current (unlike a resistor). Drivers have a minimum and maximum voltage rating, which means there is a minimum and maximum number of LEDs per string on a driver.

Meanwell vs maxwell vs inventronics... They're all fairly similar and people are using them all with sucess. Inventronics is probably the best built, but also the most expensive. They also have an internal source for 10V if you are NOT going to use a controller, but want to use a POT to dim with. The question is often answerd by finding the driver that drives the current and voltage you want for your setup or that the place your buying your LEDs comes from as the difference in price is probably less than shipping from a second store.

As for color, you can go from as simple as 2RB to 1NW on the 3-up stars sold by Miliad at LEDgroupbuy.com, to adding as many "exotic" LED colors as you want such as True Violet (TV), Deep Red (DR), Cyan ©, Turquois (T), and others. These supplement parts of the spectrum that recieve very little light from either a RB or NW light. You do NOT want anything in the UltraViolet range. TV is not in that range. For a GREAT examlpe of colorations and how extra colors can change a tank, have a look at Phasezero's thread :My DIY LED Fixture V2.0 cluster redesign plan, Led fixture upgrade log

Heatsinks can be anything from a simple extruded heatsink to the new Makers heatsink @ LEDgroupbuy.com. The makers looks really awesome and will probably be a part of my next build.

What controller you get will depend on whatelse your system has. You can get stand alones like the audrino, or use an Apex (not Jr) or the ALC that goes with an RKL/RKE. The biggest question is how many dimming channels you want to run. You can run as few as one, or as many as you have drivers, you just need that many channels on your controller.

That should be enough to start your reading.

#8
blasterman

blasterman

    Nano Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,815 posts
  • Joined 12 Aug 2009

What controller you get will depend on whatelse your system has.


I didn't have a controller on my halides, I didn't have one on my T8 VHO, and I don't consider them mandatory for LED's. Manual dimming works fine.

This is why the content in the long running build threads is so confusing to beginners.

#9
Quantum

Quantum

    Prep School Reefer

  • Members
  • 338 posts
  • Joined 02 Apr 2012
  • Manhattan
Yo blaster, any reason you recommended the xt-e's and not the standard xpg and xpe combo?

#10
Veng

Veng

    Disaster Inc.

  • Premium Members
  • 5,947 posts
  • Joined 06 Jan 2012

I didn't have a controller on my halides, I didn't have one on my T8 VHO, and I don't consider them mandatory for LED's. Manual dimming works fine.

This is why the content in the long running build threads is so confusing to beginners.

True, he said he wanted the best DIY build so I assumed that meant he wanted one. But you are correct, you don't need a controller, nor do you even need manual dimming if you want to get technical.

#11
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA
Blasterman- Yes, I was planning on going rimless on the Nanocube, but will think about retrofitting into the hood if that would be less expensive or better in any way.

I want to use the Nanocube as a test run before I attempt something like this on a larger scale.

I plan to turn the Nanocube into my QT tank for corals.

Could you please explain or recommend a thread that explains what Evil Clusters are?

I want to plan everything before I start purchasing items.

I really like the Maker'sLED heatsink, but I am confused how I can "shuffle"
LED's around easily.

I thought that you had to solder LEDS to wires?

Veng- From reading some of the LED Aesthetics thread it seems that I can achieve optimal color simply by using NW, RB, and CB LED's.

Is this correct, or do the "exotic" colors really make a big difference?

Then, it seems that I should not run with optics and keep close to the water.

This will be easy if I end up going with the MakersLED heatsink since it sits on the rim of the tank.

I am also confused what a Diffuser is and what it does to benefit the tank?

The things you need to figure out on LEDs is as follows:
What color temp are you shooting for- I want it to look like T5's or Metal Halides.

How much do you want to spend- I want to spend as little as possible, but still have a very good fixture. As I learn more about LED's I'm sure I'll figure out how much that will be.

How much light do you need- I want to be able to keep everything Soft, LPS, SPS, clams, etc.

How much control over the color do you want- Optimally, I'd like to be able to dim each type of color.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As far as a controller goes, I want one.

However, it will probably be something I add later down the road due to added cost.

Great posts guys, I have learned more in the past couple days than I have in quite some time.

Thanks- Wizzy :happy:

#12
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA
Bump :D

#13
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA
I also wanted to know what the cons are to setting up a cheap LED system to save money (i.e. Aquastyle)?

Remember, I still want to be able to keep EVERYTHING. ;)

Thanks- Wizzy :happy:

Edited by Wizzy, 07 April 2012 - 02:24 PM.


#14
jedimasterben

jedimasterben

    LED world domination!

  • Premium Members
  • 19,590 posts
  • Joined 18 Jan 2012
  • Okeechobee, FL
You can definitely go Aquastyle for your builds, only downside is you'd need more LEDs and their standard controllers ("Maxwellen") cannot be controlled via any known controller.

I would go for Philips Luxeon Rebel ES from Steve's LEDs for your base colors, even though he doesn't stock neutral whites. The Rebels he stocks, though, are less expensive and put out more light than standard CREE LEDs. The drivers he sells are also inexpensive and work well, and are fairly easy to use.

What you haven't told are the dimensions of the two tanks, this will determine how many and the placement of the LEDs you will need.

You say you want a T5 or MH look, but you don't say what temperature - 12K, 14K, 20K, etc. To get this full spectrum-style color, you will need "exotic" LEDs to add to the standard neutral white and royal blue combination. The exotics you'll want are 660nm deep red, 495nm turquoise (or 490-520nm cyan if you're ordering from Aquastyle), and 420nm true violet.

When you mix deep red, turquoise/cyan, and royal blue, it creates a nice white light when clustered together, and the color it brings out in coral is astounding - much more "pop" than the standard NW:RB combo could do.

True violet is something that few are using now. 420nm is a peak wavelength for photosynthesis, so corals will benefit greatly. They put out tremendous PAR values for looking so dim to the human eye (our eyes can't see that far down into the spectrum), so they can make or break you being able to use SPS anywhere in the tank. I have a 1:1:1 mix of cool white, royal blue, and true violet on my 55g (purchased from Aquastyle) and I can keep SPS on my sandbed with the fixture 8" above the waterline and 27" from the sandbed.

I'm going to assume your 180g tank is a standard 72x24x24. The following would give you awesome PAR all a over the tank and give you a "full spectrum" light like a MH or T5.

If you went with Luxeon Rebel ES from Steve's LEDs and the exotics from LEDGroupBuy:
18x 5650K white
36x 440nm royal blue
18x 420nm true violet
12x 660nm deep red
12x 495nm turquoise

With drivers, you're looking at around $500. Then you've got your heatsink you'd need, and your misc stuff like wire, solder, optics, etc. Probably bring you to $600-650 by the time it's all said and done.

If you went with Bridgelux from Aquastyle:
24x 4500k white
36x 455nm royal blue
18x 420nm true violet
12x 660nm deep red
12x 490-520nm cyan

With drivers, you're looking at around $400. Plus heatsink and misc expenses, probably $500-550 total after everything.

If you went with CREE from LEDGroupBuy:
18x NW:2RB 3-up stars
18x 420nm true violet
12x 660nm deep red
12x 495nm turquoise

With drivers, you're looking at around $550, so with heatsink and misc, you're looking at $650-700.

People can be just as happy going with BL vs CREE or Rebels, but personally I'd spring the extra and get the better LEDs.

I'd do some more reading and make sure that you would be comfortable putting together your own kit, soldering, making a mount, getting it situated over your tank, etc.

I hope I didn't confuse you with any of this, don't have time to go back over what I wrote one last time. :P

#15
GothBoy

GothBoy

    Nano Reefer

  • Members
  • 25 posts
  • Joined 01 Apr 2010

<sneeeeep>

I'm going to assume your 180g tank is a standard 72x24x24. The following would give you awesome PAR all a over the tank and give you a "full spectrum" light like a MH or T5.

If you went with Luxeon Rebel ES from Steve's LEDs and the exotics from LEDGroupBuy:
18x 5650K white
36x 440nm royal blue
18x 420nm true violet
12x 660nm deep red
12x 495nm turquoise

With drivers, you're looking at around $500. Then you've got your heatsink you'd need, and your misc stuff like wire, solder, optics, etc. Probably bring you to $600-650 by the time it's all said and done.

If you went with Bridgelux from Aquastyle:
24x 4500k white
36x 455nm royal blue
18x 420nm true violet
12x 660nm deep red
12x 490-520nm cyan

With drivers, you're looking at around $400. Plus heatsink and misc expenses, probably $500-550 total after everything.

If you went with CREE from LEDGroupBuy:
18x NW:2RB 3-up stars
18x 420nm true violet
12x 660nm deep red
12x 495nm turquoise

With drivers, you're looking at around $550, so with heatsink and misc, you're looking at $650-700.

People can be just as happy going with BL vs CREE or Rebels, but personally I'd spring the extra and get the better LEDs.

I'd do some more reading and make sure that you would be comfortable putting together your own kit, soldering, making a mount, getting it situated over your tank, etc.

I hope I didn't confuse you with any of this, don't have time to go back over what I wrote one last time. :P


I'm going to be building a 72x24x24 build too after my little nano. I'm using LEDGROUPBUY 3-Up and also the new Ocean Coral White 3-ups (along with TV). I'll let you know how they look to see if it's worth messing with the exotics seperately. I have to get my LEDs from the USA as in the UK you're looking at twice the price of the SMD LED itself and then you have to buy and hot-solder it onto the star if you want anything remotely decent.

Let's keep each other updated :grouphug: :lol:

#16
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA
jedimasterben- So, as far as lighting spectrum goes I like the look of my Nanocube.

10k w/actinics.

I'm not sure what spectrum that is though because of the actinics.

I would also like to say that I don't like the bluer look and I want to optimize coral growth in this tank without making everyone look too yellow.

I am also confused how I can create the lighting spectrum I want with the LED's.

Mainly, how does blending the different colors affect the lighting spectrum they put out?

I added the dimensions of both tanks to the first post, thanks for letting me know I forgot that.

The prices you estimated have put my heart at ease, because I thought that the LED's were even more expensive Lol :lol:

So, assuming that I'm fine money-wise with any of those options, which one is better and why?

So basically... Cree V.S. Rebel?


GothBoy- Certainly, and good luck with your tank :D


Thanks- Wizzy :happy:

Edited by Wizzy, 08 April 2012 - 08:39 AM.


#17
jedimasterben

jedimasterben

    LED world domination!

  • Premium Members
  • 19,590 posts
  • Joined 18 Jan 2012
  • Okeechobee, FL

jedimasterben- So, as far as lighting spectrum goes I like the look of my Nanocube.

10k w/actinics.

I'm not sure what spectrum that is though because of the actinics.

I would also like to say that I don't like the bluer look and I want to optimize coral growth in this tank without making everyone look too yellow.

I am also confused how I can create the lighting spectrum I want with the LED's.

Mainly, how does blending the different colors affect the lighting spectrum they put out?

I added the dimensions of both tanks to the first post, thanks for letting me know I forgot that.

The prices you estimated have put my heart at ease, because I thought that the LED's were even more expensive Lol :lol:

So, assuming that I'm fine money-wise with any of those options, which one is better and why?

So basically... Cree V.S. Rebel?

You can control the color because every color is dimmable - since you like a whiter look, you can turn the blues down, whites up, etc.

Adding more white LEDs will begin to overpower the blue, and vice versa, however it's recommended to do a 1:1 ratio of cool white to royal blue, or a 1:2 ratio of neutral white to royal blue. When adding red and turquoise, though, you'll want more royal blue to mix with them to make that white light.

LEDs are much less expensive now that there is more competition. I just wish that more people used Rebels to help bring prices down for everyone even more - CREE just has such a hold on the industry it's hard for people to get a word in edgewise.

I would do Rebel, hands down, every time. More light for less money.

#18
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA

You can control the color because every color is dimmable - since you like a whiter look, you can turn the blues down, whites up, etc.

Adding more white LEDs will begin to overpower the blue, and vice versa, however it's recommended to do a 1:1 ratio of cool white to royal blue, or a 1:2 ratio of neutral white to royal blue. When adding red and turquoise, though, you'll want more royal blue to mix with them to make that white light.

LEDs are much less expensive now that there is more competition. I just wish that more people used Rebels to help bring prices down for everyone even more - CREE just has such a hold on the industry it's hard for people to get a word in edgewise.

I would do Rebel, hands down, every time. More light for less money.


Oh yes! I forgot about dimmability.

Speaking of that, I use potentiometers to do that right?

Are there different brands of potentiometer or are they all the same?

Are there any good threads explaining these components in-depth?

Also, as far as whiter light goes will that encourage more coral growth compared to blue light?

I'm liking the idea of Rebel LED's a lot, because it seems they are as good or better than Cree for less money.

Any other opinions on the topic of Cree v.s. Rebel?

Thanks- Wizzy :happy:

#19
jedimasterben

jedimasterben

    LED world domination!

  • Premium Members
  • 19,590 posts
  • Joined 18 Jan 2012
  • Okeechobee, FL

Oh yes! I forgot about dimmability.

Speaking of that, I use potentiometers to do that right?

Are there different brands of potentiometer or are they all the same?

Are there any good threads explaining these components in-depth?

Also, as far as whiter light goes will that encourage more coral growth compared to blue light?

I'm liking the idea of Rebel LED's a lot, because it seems they are as good or better than Cree for less money.

Any other opinions on the topic of Cree v.s. Rebel?

Thanks- Wizzy :happy:

Yes, you can use pots to dim them, or you can use a dimmable controller for sunrise/sunset/etc. The type of pot you get would depend on the driver, but wherever you buy the driver from will sell the proper pots.

Look at the "Ultimate LED Guide" sticky, will have tons of information, though some of it is outdated by now.

No, whiter light will not encourage growth. 420nm true violet LEDs will, as this is a peak wavelength for photosynthesis.

You will not find many recommendations for Rebels on this or any other forum. People only know the CREE name, and people will a lot of times get flamed for mentioning any other brand. This does not make them better, though, keep that in mind.

EDIT: For a good sunrise/sunset controller, I'd look at the DIM4 from LEDGroupBuy

Edited by jedimasterben, 08 April 2012 - 09:53 AM.


#20
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA

Yes, you can use pots to dim them, or you can use a dimmable controller for sunrise/sunset/etc. The type of pot you get would depend on the driver, but wherever you buy the driver from will sell the proper pots.

Look at the "Ultimate LED Guide" sticky, will have tons of information, though some of it is outdated by now.

No, whiter light will not encourage growth. 420nm true violet LEDs will, as this is a peak wavelength for photosynthesis.

You will not find many recommendations for Rebels on this or any other forum. People only know the CREE name, and people will a lot of times get flamed for mentioning any other brand. This does not make them better, though, keep that in mind.

EDIT: For a good sunrise/sunset controller, I'd look at the DIM4 from LEDGroupBuy


Are there any threads that explain how to hook up the pots/drivers/leds for manual dimming.

Can I use a reef controller to get sunrise/sunset effect and dim my LED's?
________________________________________________________________________________

I'd like to get some more input on Rebel v.s. Cree if anyone can help me there.

Thanks- Wizzy :happy:

Edited by Wizzy, 08 April 2012 - 07:10 PM.


#21
McJosh13

McJosh13

    Nano Reefer

  • Members
  • 203 posts
  • Joined 01 Jan 2009

I would go for Philips Luxeon Rebel ES from Steve's LEDs for your base colors, even though he doesn't stock neutral whites. The Rebels he stocks, though, are less expensive and put out more light than standard CREE LEDs. The drivers he sells are also inexpensive and work well, and are fairly easy to use.


I would not use the cool white Luxeon Rebels from Steve's LEDs as your base color. Steve is awesome to do business with and provides excellent customer service but this LED is not ideal for base color. It is 6,300k which is too cool and the model (LXML-PWC2) has a low cri of 60-70.

I have spoken to Steve and he says soon he will be offering warmer Rebels for hobbyists. Also he is considering offering the 5000k LXW8-PW50 Rebel which has a CRI of 80 - 85 and should be awesome

Edited by McJosh13, 08 April 2012 - 05:35 PM.


#22
Veng

Veng

    Disaster Inc.

  • Premium Members
  • 5,947 posts
  • Joined 06 Jan 2012

No, whiter light will not encourage growth. 420nm true violet LEDs will, as this is a peak wavelength for photosynthesis.

I think you meant to say 455nm Royal Blues are the peak wavelength for photosynthesis, right?

#23
jedimasterben

jedimasterben

    LED world domination!

  • Premium Members
  • 19,590 posts
  • Joined 18 Jan 2012
  • Okeechobee, FL

I would not use the cool white Luxeon Rebels from Steve's LEDs as your base color. Steve is awesome to do business with and provides excellent customer service but this LED is not ideal for base color. It is 6,300k which is too cool and the model (LXML-PWC2) has a low cri of 60-70.

I have spoken to Steve and he says soon he will be offering warmer Rebels for hobbyists. Also he is considering offering the 5000k LXW8-PW50 Rebel which has a CRI of 80 - 85 and should be awesome

Did he give a timeframe?

I think you meant to say 455nm Royal Blues are the peak wavelength for photosynthesis, right?

No. 430nm and 680nm for chlorophyll A, and 470nm and 650nm for chlorophyll B.

#24
McJosh13

McJosh13

    Nano Reefer

  • Members
  • 203 posts
  • Joined 01 Jan 2009

Did he give a timeframe?


I believe he said a few weeks for the warmer Rebels but these will be the lower cri LXML-PWC2 rebels which have a higher output. Apparently he supplies heavily to coral farmers so he has been most concerned with growth and output with the LEDs he supplies and less with aesthetics. After my last email with him he said he would see what the LXW8-PW50 5000k's cost and consider getting a thousand to see how they sell.

Edited by McJosh13, 08 April 2012 - 07:15 PM.


#25
Wizzy

Wizzy

    Cool Beans Reefer

  • Members
  • 1,287 posts
  • Joined 21 Jun 2011
  • California, USA
McJosh13- Thanks for the input on the Rebels. However, what is CRI?

________________________________________________________________

1. I still need help with pots.

2. Rebel v.s. Cree

3. LED layouts

4. Number of LED's

5. Anything else you think I should know.

Thanks- Wizzy :happy: