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new(ish) to RO/DI, update


godfathernikki

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godfathernikki
Sometimes they have problems with the gauges that are screwed into the RO housings and they get screwed in too far. Try backing it out 1/2 turn or remove it completely, add a wrap or two of teflon tape and screw it back in not quite as far to compare readings. I have ssen reports of gauges reading incorrectly when in too far because the measuring tube botttoms out against the membrane or something inside the housing.

I have two gauges on both of my systems. one inline on the incoming tap water line and the one in the membrane housing. This way I can see at a glance if my sediment and carbon filters are plugging or fouling and causing a pressure drop. Just another cheap tool to have in your arsenal.

 

I'll have to try messing with the gauge when I get home, thanks for the tip.

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godfathernikki

I played with the gauge a little, but it still reads from 90-100psi. I'm still going to have to do something about this because I cant cut the flow restrictor short enough to get a 4:1 ratio. The tube is cut flush with the little plastic plug and I get about a 3.6-3.7:1 ratio.

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godfathernikki
Thats probably close enough to 4:1 to keep it well flushed.

 

 

I still need to pick up a pressure gauge from home depot to check the pressure in other areas of the house. This could explain why our pipes are so loud lol. I also need to see if we already have a pressure regulator installed, and adjust if I do.

 

I may still end up getting a pressure reducer for the ro/di system, ever since I increased the waste water flow, the air gap has been reeeally loud. It will also allow me to get closer to a 4:1 waste ratio.

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  • 1 month later...
godfathernikki

Old thread I know, but I figured this would be the best place to post the update.

After about 2 months of running the system at just under 100psi, it developed a slow leak in the first filter chamber(sediment). It's nothing major, but still something that needds to be stopped. I went ahead and ordered a pressure reducer from spectrapure which says it reduces pressure by 25%, which should put me right around 75psi.

 

I tried removing and cleaning and replacing the chamber but it developed another slow leak. The threads all look like they are in good shape, so the only other thing I could think of that might cause it would be too much pressure.

It should hopefully show up in a few days, and I'll report back to let you all know how it works.

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C.I._Reefer

that is really weird... a spectrapure should be able to handle 100-120 psi all day long. would thread tape or somthing solve your issue? Why do you have such crazy high water pressure? wish my pressure was that high.

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AZDesertRat

Clean the O ring, lid and canister and apply a very light film of silicone grease. Screw it back on hand tight then just a touch more with the wrench and you should be good to go.

Its not the pressure, its probably either a pinched or rolled O ring or its too tight.

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godfathernikki
that is really weird... a spectrapure should be able to handle 100-120 psi all day long. would thread tape or somthing solve your issue? Why do you have such crazy high water pressure? wish my pressure was that high.

 

No idea why it's that high, my guess is because the house was built in the 40s and has had a ton of modifications done to it.

 

Clean the O ring, lid and canister and apply a very light film of silicone grease. Screw it back on hand tight then just a touch more with the wrench and you should be good to go.

Its not the pressure, its probably either a pinched or rolled O ring or its too tight.

 

I did try cleaning everything, but I forgot about the silicone- it did have some originally though. If pressure wasn't the issue, then per your suggestions I'd guess that it was too tight. I ordered the pressure reducer a few days ago and it showed up yesterday, so I'll add the reducer and try cleaning the chamber again and use silicone this time.

 

Like I said earlier though, this is not a bad leak at all. The only reason I noticed it was the sediment build up, which looked totally dry, but did actually have a tiny amount of moisture on it so I know it was still leaking- but overall the water quality is still great.

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AZDesertRat

Check the threads and flat surfaces on both the canister and lid also for excess plastic flashing or mold seam lines. Often a few minutes with a nail file, jewelers file, sandpaper or Xacto knife gives you a better sealing surface. This is especially true with bulkheads and threaded PVC fittings and I go into more detail in my Bulkhead Installation Tips sticky posts on most of the reef forums.

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  • 2 weeks later...
godfathernikki

Quick update- added the pressure reducer and cleaned the chambers again. Hand tightened them this time. It's been running for about a week now at 75psi leak free, so far so good!

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AZDesertRat

Great! Its probably more due to not overtightening the housings and distorting the O-rings as it to the pressure regulator. I prefer higher pressure as it makes the membrane more efficient so lower TDS and longer DI life for a lower cost of operation.

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