I will edit this post periodically to show the progress on the controller for this little tank.Components
Arduino328 Nano usb
DS1307 RTC I2C
Dallas 1 wire Temp
2 switchable mains
Possibility of Blue Tooth serial conectivity.Functions
The controller will display heads up information about the tank on the 16x2 screen: Temp, alarm states, diming percentages, overides and time.
The controller will be programed to fade on and fade off the LEDs on a full day cycle and then again for the moonlight channels.
It will also control ATO functionality as well as monitoring for alarm states like overfill on the ATO and water/led temps as well as failed restart or possible flood state of the pico.
Two controllable mains plugs will be available (possibly more) for switching on and off pumps for feeding time and dedicated ATO use.
Any other suggestions?
LED on off and fade rate will be editable natively within the controller and should be expandable through I2C for later use. This is all based off of my first controller but I want something with a signifigantly smaller form factor to match the theme of this pico.
Soldering and internals contruction is about 80%
All lit up.
What you see on the screen
ignore my crap soldering PLEASE I need a new tip on my iron but the joints get the job done lol
So what we have up and running:LCD with display
Real Time Clock
I have the coding done for the on and off of the lights just not 100% on the fading
Water proofed the dallas 1wire sensor
What I have left:Build the case
Build the powercenter
I cant decide if I want to incorporate the 110V into the box it self or do a stand alone. I am using SSRs
which are rather bulky so having a seperate "module" might be the best idea.Finish the dimming for the sunrise/susent effect
Decide on user interface, do I want to do an IR remote or hard buttons on the controller?????
Create the menu functions to change values natively in the controller
Did I mention building a case... lol
I cant decide here if I want to just do a standard stand alone case or if I want to incorporate the display
and keys into the hood/base or if I want sitting to the side... decisions decisions
The components that will be canabalized to create the lighting and interface for the controller
Roughin of light mounting with the AC50.
The light needs to be changed slightly currently it has 4 CW from when it used to be over a planted FW tank. I am removing 3 of the CW and replacing them with 2 RB LEDs. 3 LEDs should be more than enough maybe even overkill still. And I am not dimming the LEDs on seperate channels so I want a more blue apearance.
Edited by jnam, 29 March 2012 - 11:13 AM.