Islandoftiki Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Best prices on RO/DI units by far here: http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=88_61 Link to comment
solefald Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Best prices on RO/DI units by far here: http://www.purewaterclub.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=88_61 Right, but as I said, I am going to purchase on Amazon. You can't beat "free money". Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Does your water have chlorine or chloramine? Make sure the RO/DI system you get can handle chloramine. Edit: Almost all municipalities have chloramine now. Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Purewaterclub is ebay quality and does not compare to reef quality units, not even close. You get what you pay for. For the extra $56 or whatever you might consider the MaxCap on Amazon. For the extra you get a dual DI system that will make your DI resin last at least 3.5x longer, an individually hand tested and guaranteed better than 98% rejection rate RO membrane, a 0.5 micron absolute rated sediment and 0.5 micron 20,000 gallon carbon block rather than 1.0 micron versions and two dual inline TDS meters. Well worth the difference since you sill save that in first year on DI replacements alone. Don't fall for the chloramine stuff. Yes chloramines are a little tougher to remove than free chlorine but its not the carbon block or catalytic carbon you need, its better DI resin and longer contact time. Its the ammonia that is the problem, not the chlorine portion which is a walk in the park for a single good carbon block. Only about 30% of municipalities use chloramines not most utilities, many are even converting back. Link to comment
Islandoftiki Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Well, for what it's worth, I bought the "Aqueon Coralife 05692 Pure-Flo II 50-Gallon Per Day 4 Stage RO/DI System" from Amazon. It puts out 0 TDS water. I test it every time. I'm just not sure how long the filters will hold up to the chloramine. Most of the hundreds-of-gallon-tank local reefers are using the Purewaterclub filters with very good success. I suspect my Aqueon unit will do just fine for the small amount of water I make (10 gallons a week). But the local hardcore reefer guys use cheaper units with higher output than mine, and about 10 times the volume per week. I'm no expert though. Just going by empirical data. Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 To know how well a system is performing you need 3 TDS readings, tap water TDS, RO only TDS beofe DI and final TDS. Any RO/DI worth its weight should put out 0 TDS water, at least for a little while. Its how long it stays there tha ttells the whole story and where better units shine. The longer it stays at 0 TDS the lower to overall cost of ownership. What seems like a good deal often isn't when you compare over time. The better unit will come out on top every time almost guaranteed, if they didn't companies like Spectrapure that have been in business over 25 years would not be here today. Research pays off. Link to comment
skunker Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 solefald, can you PM me what LFS you got your water from? I'm in SD too and get RO from an LFS. San Diego does use chloramines. Here is the 2010 CCR. Scroll to the bottom and look at table 4. http://www.sandiego.gov/water/quality/pdf/waterqual10.pdf Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 Chloramines are a non issue if you have a good reef quality RO/DI. http://www.3reef.com/forums/spectrapure/mo...ters-75699.html http://www.3reef.com/forums/spectrapure/ma...ance-72251.html Link to comment
solefald Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 For the extra $56 or whatever you might consider the MaxCap on Amazon. For the extra you get a dual DI system that will make your DI resin last at least 3.5x longer, an individually hand tested and guaranteed better than 98% rejection rate RO membrane, a 0.5 micron absolute rated sediment and 0.5 micron 20,000 gallon carbon block rather than 1.0 micron versions and two dual inline TDS meters. Well worth the difference since you sill save that in first year on DI replacements alone. All MaxCap ones are $270 or so. A little too much for what I need (5-10Gal per week) I originally had MPDI in mind, but may shell out extra $40 for CSPDI with a TDS meter built in. Link to comment
bizzarro Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 just had to chime in, I usually get 30-40ppm tap water, but I'd still be worried to use that as water for my tank... NYC tap water FTW! haha Our town's tap water is 350~, running it through a 3 stage filters cuts that in half. That's what I use for my water changes. I have an RO/DI but since I took the substrate out there's no more hair algae and now I'm getting coralline so tap doesn't contain much phosphates or the hang on refugium takes care of it, it doesn't justify the need to use the RO/DI and have so much waste of water. If my water is 30-40ppm I'd just use the smallest sediment and carbon filters. NY water contains a lot sediment I hear. Link to comment
solefald Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 Well, crap.... I know this is "free money" im using, but pretty much the only seller of SpectraPure on Amazon is PetStore.com (which looks suspiciously similar to MarineDepot.com). They don't have free Prime shipping and they charge tax on the price after the shipping is added. Sounds really freaking sketchy to me. Link to comment
AZDesertRat Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 You cannot remove TDS without RO, DI or distillation or any combination of the three. TDS are dissolved solids, things in the 0.0001 micron range. TSS or suspended solids, what you find in unfiltered water like NYC, are much larger than that and do not register on a TDS meter. They are sediment, silt, particulates, colloidal materials etc and in the say 0.5 to visible with the human eye range of about 40 microns. A sediment filter or carbon block will have little if any effect on those and certainly will not cut the TDS in half. Not sure where you are coming up with that one? Link to comment
solefald Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 90GPD RO/DI CSP-DI Unit is on its way Link to comment
solefald Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Just installed it yesterday.... should've done some research first though. I thought it would be a drop in replacement for my GE two-stage water filtration, but its more complicated since I also want to use it for drinking water faucet i have. Got to order more sh*t now... Link to comment
lucindrea Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 I actually found one, but did not go there yet. My "ganjapreneur" friend goes there to get water for his grow operation and he swears by it. Apparently growing quality weed requires quality RO water, just like our tanks! i cant say "I" personaly can attest to this , but um , ya i've heard the same thing , from um , a friend Link to comment
DgenR8 Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 I use water that washes off my dirt-bag gravel ridden driveway, I can't even see through it, yet I grow green hair corals with the best of 'em Link to comment
farkwar Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 You cannot remove TDS without RO, DI or distillation or any combination of the three. TDS are dissolved solids, things in the 0.0001 micron range. TSS or suspended solids, what you find in unfiltered water like NYC, are much larger than that and do not register on a TDS meter. They are sediment, silt, particulates, colloidal materials etc and in the say 0.5 to visible with the human eye range of about 40 microns. A sediment filter or carbon block will have little if any effect on those and certainly will not cut the TDS in half. Not sure where you are coming up with that one? Lucca Brasi? Link to comment
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