Custom Look CadLights 50Long

[Deckoz2302]

Hmmmm

[twan]

Last night I setup maintenance via a virtual outlet.  I set one up last night and tested it.  It is copied from the guide.

 

Custom Maintenance Cycle

By now you know that you can use the Feed cycles for maintenance as well as feeding. They‟re limited to 999 minutes which is pretty long but if you cancel the cycle early, everything starts immediately. If you have your skimmer turned off as part of the maintenance cycle, having it turn on immediately will probably cause an overflow until the sump level stabilizes. Here‟s how you can create a custom maintenance cycle using virtual outlets that when cancelled will still delay your skimmer from starting.

Create a virtual outlet called “Maint”. Fallback OFF Set OFF

Now, for each device you want turned on/off when in maintenance mode (i.e. your pumps), add the following line to their respective outlet programs:

If Outlet Maint = ON Then OFF (or ON if for example lights in your sump)

 

For the skimmer however, you need three lines of code

If Outlet Maint = ON Then OFF

If Outlet Maint = OFF Then ON

Defer 005:00 Then ON

The last 2 lines tell the Apex that when the Maint outlet goes to OFF, turn the skimmer ON but only after waiting (Defer) for 5 minutes. To operate this maintenance outlet, use the Status page or the display module to manually turn the outlet OFF. Everything shuts down that you want shut down. When you‟re done, set the outlet status to ON. All devices will start back up EXCEPT the skimmer which will wait an additional 5 minutes.

 

I added this feature last night.  1 swipe on the iphone and my ato/skimmer/return pump/heaters/powerheads all turn off.  

I do my water change and cleaning swipe the virtual outlet back to ON and all items come back with the exception of the skimmer that comes on 5 min later.  Neat-o!

[twan]

Cleaned up the AI wires further by making the connector cord longer to route behind the wall and switching the controller cable to a 90deg end.

 

Before:

 

 

 

After:

 

 

[twan]

My feeding menu is complete:

 

[Deckoz2302]

Oh man those cables came out clean

[Paleoreef103]

Ok question.

 

I finish filling the display and sump with RODI, run the pump and adjust the flow then confirm there are no leaks.

I tear apart the plumbing, dry it then primer/glue those spots that require.

In the meantime I salt my water in both locations to 1.025.

 

Now when I put the plumbing back on, glued, how long does it have to cure before it has (salt) water traveling through it again. All this gluing is below the bulkheads mind you.

To be safe, I'd wait a week.

[twan]

Paleoreef103 I waited 12hrs, there is no livestock in the tank and 4 days later all my tests seem fine.

[twan]

I have a plumbing problem so let me post here.

 

Details:

My return pump is an Eheim 1260. The pipe is 3/4" has 1 ball valve on it, two 45 deg elbows, then goes to a 1/2" reducer right before the bulkhead.

My drain is pipe is 1" has 1 ball valve on it, two 45 deg elbows, then goes to a 90 degree elbow right into the sump inlet that terminates about 2 inches below the sump water level.1/2" reducer ri2 45 d

 

Sump Picture:

 

 

Issue:

The problem is to maintain proper height in the overflow (1 inch or so below water line) I need to dial back my return. Not a lot but 20% I would say.

If I do not do this the overflow box water height falls to right at the durso intake, makes lots of noise, and I get sloshing in the return section of the sump.

I know dialing back a return is a no-no. If something gets into an already restricted pipe and clogs it, I will have a flood.

 

Fixes?:

 

A.) I thought about dialing back the return or maybe splitting the return and routing some of it off thinking if I pumped less in then less would drain but that did not work.

 

B.) I cannot change the return plumbing pipe size because I would still need to reduce to 1/2" at the bulkhead.

 

C.) I ordered a gate valve to place on the drain just after the ball valve so I can run the ball valve as an emergency shutoff only and keep it wide open.

The gate valve will still have me restricting flow on the drain but will allow me more precise control. This is a temporary fix.

 

D.) If I was to upgrade to a Eheim 1262 would this even fix my problem? I have 3/4" below the bulkhead and 1/2" from the bulkhead up. I think my pipe is already restricting my pump. I dont want to waste money on a larger pump and be in the same boat.

 

E.) Reduce the size of my return plumbing from 1" to 3/4"?

 

F.) I also noticed something else. My MP10 is pointed from the overflow corner to the opposite side of the tank.I have had it in constant mode, very low for now. When I kick up the pump, more water movement means the water level in the overflow drops even more!

 

I need a plumbing 101 course to understand why this is all happening. For now I am blaming the small diameter return or the design/footprint/teeth spacing and depth of the overflow.

[twan]

Ok I made some "progress" last night. The reason why I was not able to just open the drain full and dial back the return was because I had too much water in the system.

 

I drained out 2 gallons approx, was able to open my drain fully then dial back the return.

 

This had the following consequences now:

 

• My Eheim 1260 is dialed back to only letting 25% through and vibrates, I plan to T this off and have another valve on the T to divert some back into the return chamber to solve.
  
• The flow exiting through the return is so small you can barely feel it.
  
• The flow through the sump has slowed way down and I now have to adjust the skimmer.
  
• The water level in the display has dropped to almost 1.5" lower then the lip.
  
• The water level in the overflow box does not gush in anymore it comes over the wall and just dribbles down to the water level that is now just barely above the where the strainer pulls in versus how it used to be which was very high and almost to the top of the hole drilled into the top of the durso.
  

 

When I tee off the return that will alleviate the vibration. I tried cutting and using higher standpipes attached to the durso and it had no effect.

 

The other issues are how this should be operating and I just have to get used to it?

[Deckoz2302]

As far as your return you want To speed up and the pump. You get gurgling/sloshing. For the drain take a rigid airline about 10-12 inches long and shove it down the durso air gap hole leaving 2-3 inches above the hole...or to the top line of your tank to not create an eye sore - put a bleeder air valve on the end with a small piece of soft tube as the medium between. This will allow air injection lower in the drain vs up top where its turbulent allowing for it to be quite, faster. How high is your standpipe inlet in relation to the overflow box strainer?

 

So unrestricted your mag so the flow makes your display height where you want it. Open up your drains gate valve. Insert rigid airline tubing in durso air gap hole with a twist air valve on the end. Your overflow should now rise up where the air gap hole normally was - before what was happening more then likely is the water would rise over the hole and create a full siphon clearing the pipes causing a gurgle. Now that the airline hose is there it should just hold a high water height. Now to change the water height and get it lower you need to controlled the amount of air entering the drain which is where the air valve/drip acclimator valve comes into play. Slowly start ting at fully open. Tur. The valve 1/8th turn at a time and give the water a couple minutes to level out. As you cut off the air slowly the water level will fall. Adjust this slowly until the water level is where you want it and isn't flushing. Also make sure the outlet of your drain is not underwater. I hope this helps. Just remember that the drain speed is dependent on the amount of air available. Tuning the air intake of the standpipe will allow you to increase the speed of your return and increase the speed of the drain while also being able to adjust the water height of the overflow relative to the height of the strainer to eliminate a waterfall and also to prevent the drain from hitting full siphon and flushing causing a gurgle

[twan]

I am partially following you. I need to T off my return to stop the choke.

That will decrease my vibrations but it will not effect how much I can pump up to the display.

 

My durso already has an airline in the top cap. I was unsure how to use it and how much to pull out and how to close it. I guess an air valve.

 

I have 3 different standpipes cut to different lengths I keep swapping in and out.

How high should the standpipe inlet in relation to the overflow box strainer be?

[Deckoz2302]

From the bottom of the strainer to the inlet of the durso should be about 2 inches. - the neck of the durso leading to the air gap should extend up to the level of the bottom of the strainer. But yea pull the airline out so its at the same level as the top of you tank with an air valve on it. The air valve will make your.life easier and less of a headache

 

Your goal will be to hold water at 1 inch below strainer or 1 inch above.drain inlet...same thing. This way your.mp10 won't cause enough flux to make.it gurgle

[twan]

OK lets take another approach.

 

 

• The blue circle is a hole through the T fitting of my standpipe from CAD lights that goes through both sides. Should I not use this pipe because of the hole, what was its intended design?
  
• The green line represents the water level in the overflow box, where should it be on the standpipe?
  
• The orange line represents the airline, how far should this go down the pipe leaving how much sticking out the top?
  

[Deckoz2302]

Blue holes - unnecessary and will break flow causing gurgle if you do use this standpipe they need to always be submerged during normal running waterlevel

Green line - anywhere from the back of the elbow(topside) with the strainer on it up to where you have the green line now, top of the green line should be about(within 1/4") as the same level as the bottom of the overflow teeth.

Orange line - the amount extended from the pipe is fine, distance extended in though you need about 2 inches below the T for the water to bend and converge so 3-4+ inches past the bottom of the T

[twan]

Alright thanks for all your help, seriously.

The way it was running the green line was way low and exposing the blue hole

I will also pickup an airline valve for the orange line to adjust if need be.

 

I am going to try to work on this more 2nite after the wife goes to bed.

I have spent way too much time on this already for her liking, lol.

[Deckoz2302]

Haha no problem twan! And the good old cuddle the wife til.she falls asleep so you can work on the tank trick...word! I do this.often.....very often

[twan]

Haha no problem twan! And the good old cuddle the wife til.she falls asleep so you can work on the tank trick...word! I do this.often.....very often

 

 

Hahahah that usually works but she is overdue with our 1st child, red alert red alert, tread carefully.

[Deckoz2302]

Oh damn...so she's in the get this ####er out of me already phase...be careful hot coal road ahead lol

[twan]

1 last time since I am dumb. 

Water level in the overflow should be between 1/2" and 1" lower then the water level in the display and to the yellow line or the purple line on this picture:

 

 

[twan]

I had to give up on the plumbing and dial my drain back and leave it like that for now.

Way tooo frustrating. I'll revist this another day.

 

Now my cadlights TIA1150 skimmer has been pulling good stuff.........but i see now where the collection cup slips into the neck there must be a leak. There is yellow water (skimmed) sitting on the bracket below the neck and dripping back into my sump. I removed and cleaned the cut and re-seated it down evenlu y a few times.............come back a few hours later, same deal.

[twan]

Skimmer:

I cleaned and reseated the skimmer collection cup and will take a picture next time it leaks.

 

Durso:

The more people I talk to the more they tell me to ditch the CAD durso and go with one that has 1.25" standpipe like the guy who makes them here:

 

http://shop.dursostandpipes.com/index.php?...;products_id=10

 

PVC Size to Use

My tank has a 1 inch bulkhead on the bottom glass where the water drains out. For this size hole, I recommend you use 1¼ inch Schedule 26 PVC for the standpipe. I do not recommend 1½ inch PVC as the larger fittings are much harder to fit inside overflow chamber (also called a weir). Secondly, there is no advantage in 1½ inch over 1¼ inch PVC when dealing with a 1 inch bulkhead — the bulkhead is the limiting factor for the amount of water that can drain out.

 

To Oversize or Not to Oversize

With 1 inch and smaller bulkheads the standpipe's PVC diameter needs to be larger than the bulkhead to work correctly. I get a lot of e-mail questions on why this is. Honestly, I’m not sure. Typically if you use 1 inch PVC pipe on a 1 inch bulkhead you get poor results. (Some exceptions with smaller low flow tanks.) Take my word on it and use 1¼ inch PVC pipe

[Deckoz2302]

In the last picture yes that is where you want your height - in between those lines. and as far as the bigger pipe for the smaller bulkhead....it uses the same principle as connecting two 2 liter bottles filled with water and swirling it to create a tornado drain....the convergence at the stepdown neck to the bulkhead increases velocity without creating turbulence effectively making a more efficient drain

[twan]

Hi deckoz, Ok i understand the principal.

 

Going with the one from dursostandpipes.com with strainer to test.

[mpsti05]

Did you get your tunze osmolator controller back yet? Im about to order the universal 3155 for my new tank that i'll be picking up next week

[twan]

Did you get your tunze osmolator controller back yet? Im about to order the universal 3155 for my new tank that i'll be picking up next week

 

Not yet soemtime later in the week

 

 

So here is the deal with the skimmer. It leaks between the collection cup and the skimmer neck.

The sealant used there seems to me marred in some way. I took the collection cup on and off several times to make sure that it was seated correctly.

 

Should I remove the collection cup, add a bead of silicone to it and let it dry before resetting it down?

 

Also in how much height of water should this skimmer be?

 

Pics:

 

 

 

 

 

Seal that looks a little sagged: