twan Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Don't worry, you are doing a mighty fine job. Looking great so far! i like how clean the BRS screen top came out. Where did you get the supplies from? I used the BRS kit from here. The 3 foot kit was $37. All bars needed to be cut to size, then endcaps fitted, then roll the spline into the groove and trim excess. I think it took about 30mins to complete. BRS has a video guide as well. Link to comment
twan Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Looking @ Weekend Task list Index this thread. Contact stand builder to see when I can pickup next week. Prime the temporary maybe final? hanging arms for AI Lights. Paint all AI cords white. Pickup new spacers and screws for AI mount. Upgrade Apex Firmware Link to comment
21093r53 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Looking @ Weekend Task list Index this thread. Contact stand builder to see when I can pickup next week. Prime the temporary maybe final? hanging arms for AI Lights. Paint all AI cords white. Pickup new spacers and screws for AI mount. Upgrade Apex Firmware After checking out your thread I decided to calibrate my monitor since its been about six months. Guess what! I hit the screw number four by accident :/ I'm buying another today so I can send it back to pinpoint to be re calibrated. Link to comment
twan Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Crap sorry to hear that. I am scared now. Always touch left screw Twan, always left screw, #3! When I read the website it says : NOTE: Do not adjust screw #4 since this is used to set frequency andrequires specialized equipment for adjustment. Screw #4 has been set at the factory and does not require further adjustment. A small amount of glue has been placed on screw #4 to prevent accidental adjustment. Did you not have any resistance when touching screw #4? Link to comment
21093r53 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Crap sorry to hear that. I am scared now. Always touch left screw Twan, always left screw, #3! When I read the website it says : Did you not have any resistance when touching screw #4? Dot be scared I just made a mistake my screwdriver was just a tad too small and hit the screw. I put the unit under light and there was no glue holding the screw in place:/ but Lou at pinpoint has been swift with emailing me back and I'm looking forward to getting my baby back and I'll probably just sell the extra one to a friend that is using a refract hahaha. Link to comment
tam Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 You should only hand tighten your bulkheads. If you put to much stress on the hole by over tightening it will crack. Link to comment
sammy113 Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 a week and half later and I'm still laughing at the overflow cover that sh!t isn't even straight what the hell? even a score & break tool do a better job. Everything else is looking good man Link to comment
twan Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Looking @ AI cords Why have a sleek minimalist design with intrusive black cords messing up my white/grey theme? Paint those suckers! Looking @ AI Mounting *#10 32 2" Machine Screws *10"x8" "L" brackets painted grey to match wall color. * 1/2" Spacers painted white to match AI Fixture. Looking @ Equipment Panel Crappy Picture but you get the idea. If I had to do it all over again I would remove the panel from the wall and use rectangle cuts to make slots to pass cords through (not round). The Apex and EB8 have spacers to let them breathe below. I fit everything on the upper panel leaving me the lower to expand (ecotech battery backup, another EB8, dosing, reactors.) In the future I will color code cords to outlets with matching electrical tape. I will get better pictures in the future. This is on the wall directly behind the tank Link to comment
Scorched Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Great clean build Twan. Can't wait to see it all together! Link to comment
twan Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Thanks for the kind words sammy113, 21093r53 & Scorched_Ice7. Stand will be ready this week. Rock is cycled. Plumbing will be done this weekend. Wet next week?!!??!?!!??!!? Link to comment
twan Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Looking @ Invert list CuC From http://reefcleaners.org, no hermits. Skunk Cleaner Shrimp. Orange Sea Star or Blue Linckia Sea Star. Squamosa Clam. Maxima Clam. Looking @ Macro list Chaeto in the sump. Mangroves in the display Looking @ Coral list I love rics so there will for sure be a ric island. After that will be my 1st try at SPS/LPS. Looking @ Fish list Starry Blenny Flame Angelfish Or Tang Or Butterfly Four Line Wrasse Pink Skunk Clownfish (trio) ======================================================================== What if anything in the above list(s) are in conflict? What kind of tang or butterfly might I substitute in for the Flame Angelfish? Display size is 50g, sump volume is 22g. Link to comment
mpsti05 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 2nd tank looks much better... Glad you were able to kind of work out the issues except the little bubbles in the silicone. How easy was putting together that BRS screen top? I think im going to order one for my custom pico aquarium im having built 30x20x16 all starphire . And flame angel's are very awesome fish i loved mine in my last tank. Not aggressive and got along with the clowns and goby and blenny Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Hey man did you get your pumps yet?(mp10s) just curious.... Link to comment
twan Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 How easy was putting together that BRS screen top? Hacksaw/Tape measure and 20 min job. Really easy. Order the kit since it comes with the spline and roller tool. Also remember you have to cut your lengths shorter then your rim since you have to factor in the corner pieces. Measure twice, cut once. Hey man did you get your pumps yet?(mp10s) just curious.... I have one to start(mp10wes), I will add another down the line. 3 is too rich for my tastes! Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Ah OK I was gonna offer you three for the price of two. I'm going to be selling them soon as the new tank will be closed loop Link to comment
twan Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Tank is on stand with padding, sump is in with cords routed and padding underneath, removable center brace is back in, plumbing is dry fitted! :WOOT It was my 1st time plumbing something with multiple fittings/bends/valves. It was daunting but taking it one piece at a time helped. Mounting the lights 12" AWL tonight. This weekend I will put the rock in, add sand, add water, add salt. Once that is done can I test run this thing draining and pumping back up with the fittings snugly pushed into each other to check how it runs before primer/glue? I would think so.............just making sure.......... Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Yea you can. Test run just don't keep it like so as salt will eventually creep pressing the fittings apart. I ran my tank for 3 weeks unglued before I was satisfied enough to glue it Link to comment
twan Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Yea you can. Test run just don't keep it like so as salt will eventually creep pressing the fittings apart. I ran my tank for 3 weeks unglued before I was satisfied enough to glue it Awesome, thanks for the fast reply. I want to make sure my drain is working properly and I can dial back my return (if needed) before all this gets glued. There are unions for the future but I want to test this all before the glue. THanks Deckoz! Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 No problem - also more then likely your first pipe together will be loud and you'll be unsatisfied and modify it lol...it happens to everyone. If you can create as many 45 angle drops as you can instead of straight down(unless your running two drains and plan on one being full siphon). And also the outlets of the drain into the water you will need a way to bleed off air. Which you can accomplish by an elbow at the water line similar to this. The T with airline isn't necessary - it was in my situation because the way I run the overflow(I run the drain at the pipe gph rating not the overflow box rating) so I needed to bleed off extra air Link to comment
twan Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 Looking @ Tank/Light/Stand/Sump Install Tasks Completed: See pics. Tasks to Follow: Fill up tank rest of way with RODI. Fill sump 1/2 way with RODI. Run return pump and check how overflow/plumbing/bulkheads/valves work. Tear down pipes if all works well to primer/glue. Salt water in tank/sump to 1.025. Rinse rock in fresh RODI then add to tank & aquascape. Level display. Replace two AI cables with longer, 90 deg bend versions for cleaner install. Adjust AI mounting screws to level them out. Program outlets on Apex. Setup Tunze ATO. Calibrate PH probe. Add CuC in one week as long as tests come back OK (rock has been curing 6-7 weeks.) Link to comment
twan Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 I'm still going to beat you. Wet yet brah? Link to comment
Deckoz2302 Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Daaaaaaamn it looks soooo good twan, your masterpiece is coming coming together nicely Link to comment
mpsti05 Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Heck yea! Looks great man.. Are you not getting those custom brackets for the Ai Sol's anymore? Link to comment
twan Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 Thanks for the kind words Deckoz2302 and mpsti05. Heck yea! Looks great man.. Are you not getting those custom brackets for the Ai Sol's anymore? The builder is hard to pin down and was charging $25 per bracket (would need 2). In the meantime I wanted to try with some items from Lowes ($15). The cords and spacers are painted to match the white of the AI. The brackets are painted the same color as the wall. It will look even more sleek when I replace the controller cable with a 90deg bend version and route the data link cable through the wall as well. The holes for the cords I mention are hidden behind the bracket not to be seen. I am probably going to keep these, I like the way they turned out. Thoughts? Link to comment
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