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Custom Look CadLights 50Long


twan

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Nice new stuff. As far as your water change on the cycle water - let it sit as long as possible - preferably until nitrates go to 0 which will build up your denitrifying bacteria. Once nitrites go to 0 add a couple pieces of frozen food to kick the ammonia back up to keep the ammonia and nitrite bacteria alive while your denitrifying bacteria establishes itself. This way you could in essence add cuc and a fish on day two after your clouding settles and water is at temp

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Good point Deckoz2302, I really didn't think beyond getting nitrites to zero and getting the nitrate down with a water change. I thought "OK I am done."

 

Truth is if the rock is not in the tank and rolling at that time and nitrates level off....but there is no livestock in the water...........there is nothing to keep pumping small amounts of ammonia into the system to keep the denitrifying bacteria moving along.

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That's why you feed the rock as if it were a fish ;) the food will break down and keep it rolling - just put the food in a mesh baggie clipped to the side so you dint get particles everywhere. Feed every other day. Its basically what I did when I setup my current tank. Last few weeks before the setup I fed the rock like I was feeding a 30 gallon. Plopped in 3 fish my cuc and a shrimp in a weeks time with no spikes ;)

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Looking @ AI Plastic Exterior

 

I purchased my AI lights from a user on Nanoreef used for a very fair price.

He purchased one in October 2011 and one in January 2012. They are both SOL Blues.

 

When I got them I did not notice it right away but the white housing of the fixture looked off. One was a brilliant bright white and one was more of an almond white. When I booted up both fixtures it became more noticeable because the almond white housing was made from a thinner plastic. This allowed more light to shine through that fixture versus the other. I wish I took a picture of this but I did not.

 

The two obviously came from two separate manufacturing runs. I do not blame the seller. He didn't even notice that they were slightly mismatched. But me, I am pretty anal as this thread is a testament to that.

 

I called AI and gave them the serial numbers off of both units. I got an email reply the same day with an offer to send me a new housing. They confirmed that both units were identical in performance and function but they change at one point to a brilliant bright white fixture. They offered to help me match the units by sending me a replacement housing if I paid the $8 shipped. I obliged and was very impressed with their customer service.

 

Almond left Brilliant right:

 

SWDSk.jpg?1

 

br5jU.jpg?1

 

2VuJm.jpg?2

 

AI supplied the replacement fan cover, it just snaps in:

 

YdXlz.jpg?1

 

The Housing removes with 4 allen key screws. Be careful after removing the housing now there is nothing holding the optics onto the LED's.

 

njevq.jpg?2

 

All matched up and test fired:

 

149IO.jpg?1

 

 

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Week 4 Cycling

 

 

I am now using Salifert Test kits for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate.

I have not started testing phosphates but will do so after the rock makes it to the display with my new Hannah checker.

I now have a Pinpoint Salinity monitor for SG but have had to calibrate it twice in opposite directions already so I am holding back with using it for my official readings. Stated SG's this week were recorded with a refreactometer.

 

 

mefV8.jpg

 

Ammonia pretty much gone.

Nitrite is coming down in the container with less rock but still very high in the other.

Nitrate through the roof in both.

After all the nitrite cycles out which will hopefully be in another 1.0-1.5 weeks then I will perform a 75% water change to reduce the nitrate.

It is at this time I will also start feeding the rock a pinch of flake every other day to keep things going before the rock can make it to the tank.

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Making progress on the cycling! I'm really excited on this build. I'm not sure if I have commented on it before, but I've been following along. Hopefully your tank will show up right this time.

 

But yeah, AI has wonderful customer service! I don't think it could get any better

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With all the trouble you've had with Cadlights, I was thinking it would be great to see what Tyler (Elite Aquatics) could do as far as a full size acrylic tank.

 

It would probably be a change for him as far as size goes, but I bet he would do an amazing job on it.

 

Just a side thought. :)

 

I think I'm as anxious for you to get your tank as you probably are. I, like every one else, am looking forward to seeing it come together. :)

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It's here, I will be keeping it. Leak testing the overflow and bulkheads now.

Will leak test display over weekend. :o

 

Good:

*Clear silicone, I only spent 30mins with a blade cleaning it up.

*Better attention to detail (fit and blackout covering).

*Perfect glass.

 

Bad:

*Have 1 area of silicone with bubbles and wouldn't ya figure it is on the front. Not fatal just annoying.

*Custom cover for overflow supplied that I paid $20 extra was a joke and I am asking for a refund on that.

 

Video:

http://youtu.be/WnppwgTZ05U

 

Photos:

 

9wdxv.jpg?1

 

kS9wm.jpg?1

 

9Ap9F.jpg?1

 

 

Reference for stand builder:

 

1tyx0.jpg?1

 

mp3mT.jpg?1

 

RBiEc.jpg?1

 

9maKe.jpg?1

 

Laughable acrylic "custom" canopy:

 

XUCKO.jpg?1

 

5Uubn.jpg?1

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They should be embarrassed to send you that overflow cover, let alone charge you $20 for it. Nice tank though, corner overflows are much better IMO.

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OK my bulkheads hold. I could not leak tank the display and the overflow at the same time. I needed the tank off the ground and hanging over an edge to test the overflow.

 

My stand is not in and I do not trust the holding table it is on now to hold good enough when filled 100% with water. So this weekend I will leak test the display with the tank on the floor.

 

What I did notice though is how soon water started to drain out of the overflow through the durso. I am new to this. The tank is 18" high, at what height should my durso be pulling water in?

 

The pipe looks short and the level in the overflow looked low because of it but again there is no water running over the teeth to see how far of a drop it has to take because the tank is not running.

 

Questions:

1.) Is this something I have to wait on or is there a standard height my durso should be in this size tank.

2.) I prime and then cement my pipes inside the overflow box into the bulkheads, correct? There is no other method to secure them?

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Pinpoint came in. It needed calibration before use as it was a little off.

I used a double shot glass so the probe would be fully immersed with the small amount of calibration solution provided.

Swish to remove any trapped air bubbles.

 

Readings out of the box:

l4YTk.jpg

 

Screw on the left is for adjustments:

XVhA0.jpg

 

Reading just right:

O6pS9.jpg

 

 

mine read the same when i first took it out of the box. best investment made as far as testing water goes! puts a refracto to shame...and btw baller sump. cant wait until im out of school with a job to get a nice sump, mine is doing the trick now though just doesnt have all that gorgeous etching

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Got this off another forum. Please confirm or deny.

 

 

"don't glue the standpipe or return pipe into the bulk head".

I know the standpipe will be OK not glued as water is going down through it but was wondering if pressure would blow the return pipe up without it being secured! But I guess not since it will be also screwed into loc line where it exists my overflow to keep it down and secure.

 

As for the height of the standpipe I just have to wait and adjust the height once the system is up and running. Thanks again.

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question time friends!

 

 

1.). how tight do I make the bulkhead nut? hand tight all the way then 1/4 turn with a wrench? no wrench at all? the bulkhead is abs.

 

2.) the only sch40 I have on the tank is in the overflow and white. Can I paint this black or

is that a no-no since it will be in direct contact with the water?

 

3.) what do I use to trim the acrylic cover to make is useable?

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1. IMO, yes. Just double check for leaks. Don't overtighten.

 

2. Krylon Fusion, 7 day cure.

 

3. I'd throw that sorry excuse for fabrication in the garbage.

 

Surely you can get a new piece cut locally for the cheap.

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Week 5 Cycling

 

 

*Second week using only Salifert Test kits for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate.

*They are much more precise and worth the money.

*I have not started testing phosphates with my new Hannah checker yet.

*My Pinpoint Salinity monitor is now reliable after a few calibrations.

*Refreactometer and calibration fluid confirms I am now calibrated and ready to rock.

 

Chart:

IFaUb.jpg

 

 

Water color against white background:

h6ku0.jpg?1

 

 

Ammonia pretty much gone.

Nitrite pretty much gone.

Nitrate through the roof in both.

I thought about doing a water change in the buckets but I should be able to move the rock to my display in 1 week. So this water change will just be wasteful as I will be doing a 100% change when moving the rock.

 

Question time:

1.) No worries about leaving the rock in this high nitrate water for another week right?

2.) Should I also start feeding the rock a pinch of flake every other day to keep things going before the rock can make it to the tank?

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Pic below is my overflow pipes after 3 coats of Krylon Fusion. They will sit for 5 more days.

I miscalculated how far the pipes slip into the bulkheads when I taped off to paint.

The result is a 1/4" of white showing just before each bulkhead.

It will be buried down the bottom of the overflow and never seen though.

 

AvFs6.jpg

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Don't worry, you are doing a mighty fine job. Looking great so far! i like how clean the BRS screen top came out. Where did you get the supplies from?

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