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#26
FlCandy

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SO the params are as follows

SG 1.025
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrites 1.0ppm (has dropped :happydance: )
Nitrates 10.0ppm
PH 8.0

Seems to be hanging there waiting to see what happens.

I sent an email to reef cleaners with the specs and hopes for the tank and we will see what they say re a CUC as I would probably be ordering late this week for an early/mid week delivery.

Need to go to this LFS I found they have the koralia 750 for 5 more then online. I will get them local instead of shipping them then I don't have to wait. I am also getting a Mag7 for the return from my SUMP and then the plumbing will be PVC as that is more secure.

2011_08_31_23_02_33_813.jpg
Thats the SUMP, what should I run in it? I plan on having the Skimmer in that first main chaimber after the drip basket and some chaeto in there somewhere, I have a CFL from a 1/2 gallon dwarf puffer tank I had and it's enough for that. Any help setting this up would be great. Also a float valve? I know I need one but I have no idea what I should look for.

So hopefully I can get the powerheads next week and the Mag 7 this week so I can get that SUMP running and do a water change.

Thanks for your help with the sump I am clueless. LOL

Note: Checked the cost on amazon, $34 vs $42 I will order online and get the mag 7 locally by the time I get my sump hooked up I should be getting the powerheads in the mail.

Edited by FlCandy, 05 September 2011 - 05:55 PM.


#27
FlCandy

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No SUMP setup suggestions? I am so lost. :huh:

#28
Squared

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i would get a hyperflow rio. it's compact, very quiet, and cheap.

that's the one i got.

Edited by Squared, 05 September 2011 - 07:16 PM.


#29
FlCandy

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i would get a hyperflow rio. it's compact, very quiet, and cheap.

that's the one i got.


For a pump? I have a 46 gallon I need a LOT of flow, so I have a mag 7 I am getting Local for $40, guy said it isn't used much and has the fittings.

Meant for the Chaeto/Skimmer in the sump and what I should put in that drip basket as I have taken the Bio Balls out since they don't do anything. Should I just get a ton of the Bio Rings? (little porcelin things) or get some LR rubble?

#30
Squared

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can you take off the drip tower thing?

Edited by Squared, 05 September 2011 - 07:26 PM.


#31
FlCandy

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can you take off the drip tower thing?


I can bypass it and just have the Overflow drain into the main chamber but no it's stuck there.

#32
chrishayes

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First off, hi, im Chris. Second, I would be a bit concerned about your new NICE LR. It looks as though it may have been taken from a neglected tank and just left in buckets. It likely has LOTS of die off and absorbed PO4 and nitrate in it. I would try to get a low range phosphate test on the water before continuing on to adding creatures. If its full of po4 you will kinda be doomed from the start by algae and an endless cycle of "band aide" fixes that you dislike. Its an endless money wasting cycle to start off on the wrong foot with saturated live rock. Jjust be sure before moving forward, itll save you a ton of heartache and cash not to mention living things!

As to your sump, theres no easy way to say it so ill come right out with it...it sucks! Theres not much good to say about it. The drip plate will cause massive amounts of salt creep and noise then the water level will not stay constant for your skimmer without an ato. Even then itll be a large enough volume that all but the priceiest ato's will have trouble keeping it within 1/4" or more at a time. Your cheato will end up in your skimmer pump and return pump then inevitably back in the display. Plus, with a u tube overflow there is no such thing as flood proof. So if you use this make sure you plan for water on the floor at one point or another. I speak from expierience. I would at the least use a toms aqualifter pump in the u tube to keep the siphon rather than a more powerful pump that may work in the opposite. Also with a mag 7 I doubt a single 1" u tube will be able to handle the flow from it reliably if at all.

To me, your system is set up for a flowler with around a 350gph return pump and not at all suitable for a reef tank. Of course you can use it but sometimes A sump is NOT better than NO sump...Of course you can make some modifications to it to make it work but you would need to have the tools and knowledge of working with acrylic solvents and at the least a router. You could take VERY accurate measurements and have someone else cut the pieces or even find a sign shop that would be willing to do the mods for you but you may end up out more cash than just buying a new sump or using an all glass tank with glass baffles. Search "reef tank sump design" in google for ideas of what a sump should look and work like for the purpose you are using it for.

Dont mean to be a soura$$, just trying to save you money and headaches.

#33
FlCandy

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First off, hi, im Chris. Second, I would be a bit concerned about your new NICE LR. It looks as though it may have been taken from a neglected tank and just left in buckets. It likely has LOTS of die off and absorbed PO4 and nitrate in it. I would try to get a low range phosphate test on the water before continuing on to adding creatures. If its full of po4 you will kinda be doomed from the start by algae and an endless cycle of "band aide" fixes that you dislike. Its an endless money wasting cycle to start off on the wrong foot with saturated live rock. Jjust be sure before moving forward, itll save you a ton of heartache and cash not to mention living things!

As to your sump, theres no easy way to say it so ill come right out with it...it sucks! Theres not much good to say about it. The drip plate will cause massive amounts of salt creep and noise then the water level will not stay constant for your skimmer without an ato. Even then itll be a large enough volume that all but the priceiest ato's will have trouble keeping it within 1/4" or more at a time. Your cheato will end up in your skimmer pump and return pump then inevitably back in the display. Plus, with a u tube overflow there is no such thing as flood proof. So if you use this make sure you plan for water on the floor at one point or another. I speak from expierience. I would at the least use a toms aqualifter pump in the u tube to keep the siphon rather than a more powerful pump that may work in the opposite. Also with a mag 7 I doubt a single 1" u tube will be able to handle the flow from it reliably if at all.

To me, your system is set up for a flowler with around a 350gph return pump and not at all suitable for a reef tank. Of course you can use it but sometimes A sump is NOT better than NO sump...Of course you can make some modifications to it to make it work but you would need to have the tools and knowledge of working with acrylic solvents and at the least a router. You could take VERY accurate measurements and have someone else cut the pieces or even find a sign shop that would be willing to do the mods for you but you may end up out more cash than just buying a new sump or using an all glass tank with glass baffles. Search "reef tank sump design" in google for ideas of what a sump should look and work like for the purpose you are using it for.

Dont mean to be a soura$$, just trying to save you money and headaches.


OK so nm on the SUMP.
I am running a fluval 305 I will just leave it,
Also no it is green coraline, I have looked for slime and etc there is none, the purple is taking over already and about 2/3 of the rocks have more purple.
Why do you say they look like their from a neglected tank? There was no smell to them and yes they were in a bucket for over 2 hours as I have to drive 1.5 hours each way to get to miami so yes I expect some dieoff.

I plan on testing for it but I expect some algae as my tank gets some direct light, but this rock has nothing but coraline on it spare one tiny patch of GHA I tore of before I placed it in to the tank.

Also I said I could take this drip plate out and bypass the other BS section and run it as a reefgum instead, but I got no comment on that?

If you read closely I stated I wans't putting anything in it until next week so I planned on testing, my Nitrites are to high and I need a WC before that so at least 1.5 weeks away.

The pump is only 700 gph, Overflow is 600gph this is a tall tank close to 4,5 feet I will be losing some power there and expect to have to make adjustments.

Edit: My Nitrates have dropped by 10 ppm since I have put the rock in.

I would still like to know why this LR looks like it has absorbed phosphates and Nitrates.

Edited by FlCandy, 06 September 2011 - 02:10 PM.


#34
FlCandy

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Ok I have updated pics, I should have taken these before I placed the rock in the tank but it was late. Their taken with my phone so bear with me but I tried to scrub them and all this refused to come off, from what I have seen it looks like Green Coraline and it very quickly being overcome by the pink/purple coraline, please someone if this rock looks like crap rock from a tank let me know but I checked it before I took it and it didn't smell like death or decay. And none of this wanted to come off, seems like it is a part of the rock.

Thanks

2011_09_06_18_11_34_1.jpg





You can see the pink taking over the white edge of that rock (white one).
2011_09_06_18_11_41_929.jpg

These rocks aren't slimy at all when I was moving them and handling them, nothing green was on my hands.

Purple taking this one over too.

2011_09_06_18_11_50_447.jpg

Edited by FlCandy, 06 September 2011 - 02:23 PM.


#35
Squared

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sign up for a picasa account, it's free. you won't run out of room to upload pictures with that (unless you take like a 100 pics a day)

#36
FlCandy

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2011_09_06_18_11_58_95.jpg

sign up for a picasa account, it's free. you won't run out of room to upload pictures with that (unless you take like a 100 pics a day)


Thanks

Last one.

2011_09_06_18_12_28_718.jpg


So please someone enlighten me why does this rock look full of phosphates? I can see the rock under the green/purple and there isn't slime or algae on it.

Thought Coraline came in all colors and when I look at LR online this is the same color as green coraline.

#37
FlCandy

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Current Params:

SG 1.025
PH 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0.25ppm
Nitrates 5.0ppm (Dropped another value since 3 days ago!)

Seems like I am at the end of the cycle.
I am going to have the LFS check it tomorrow to make sure my tests are reading right have them test for Phos and then probably order my CUC and do a 20-30% Water change.

Sound good to you guys?

Thanks! :D

#38
chrishayes

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Hey sorry I took so long to reply. I wasnt insinuating that your rock is crap. I was trying to help you help yourself and MAKE SURE. From the pics you just posted that does indeed look like coraline. However, looks are decieving. Without testing for PO4 you just dont know. Do you have a turkey baster? If so, blow in a hole in the rock. If a giant cloud comes out thats a good sign of stored phosphates but not proof. I mainly was going off you saying it was full of dead coral and that red coraline was QUICKLY overcoming the green. Coraline doesnt QUICKLY come on rock that is just placed in a new tank. THat is typically cyano but I dont see that in your pics.

Sorry, I come across harsh sometimes especially on the net. Im trying to help, not bash you! Promise.

When it comes to your overflow and sump, im just being honest from YEARS of expirience. I too have had a hand me down fowlr wet dry filter and tried to use it as a sump. It is just so frustrating and cobbled together and never works well for ANYTHING. It will bleed you dry trying to patch it all together. Certainly you can use it but if you want a good reliable system then this is not what you need to start with especially given your lack of knowledge and diy skills(your words not me bashing). Please whatever you do, put a return loop and ball valve on that mag 7 or you WILL come home to a flood!

#39
FlCandy

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Hey sorry I took so long to reply. I wasnt insinuating that your rock is crap. I was trying to help you help yourself and MAKE SURE. From the pics you just posted that does indeed look like coraline. However, looks are decieving. Without testing for PO4 you just dont know. Do you have a turkey baster? If so, blow in a hole in the rock. If a giant cloud comes out thats a good sign of stored phosphates but not proof. I mainly was going off you saying it was full of dead coral and that red coraline was QUICKLY overcoming the green. Coraline doesnt QUICKLY come on rock that is just placed in a new tank. THat is typically cyano but I dont see that in your pics.

Sorry, I come across harsh sometimes especially on the net. Im trying to help, not bash you! Promise.

When it comes to your overflow and sump, im just being honest from YEARS of expirience. I too have had a hand me down fowlr wet dry filter and tried to use it as a sump. It is just so frustrating and cobbled together and never works well for ANYTHING. It will bleed you dry trying to patch it all together. Certainly you can use it but if you want a good reliable system then this is not what you need to start with especially given your lack of knowledge and diy skills(your words not me bashing). Please whatever you do, put a return loop and ball valve on that mag 7 or you WILL come home to a flood!



Planned on it (ball valve), and it is Purple taking over the rocks, per all my reading I wouldn't be getting purple if my phosphates were high, Like I said I cleaned the rock before I got it and nothing came off, no dust, nothing.

Checked the values again (last night) and they have gone down more since the last reading

SG 1.025
PH 8.0
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrites 0.25
Nitrates 5.0 (this is down since Sat so rock can't have any in it or it would be going up)

I am getting some new Test Kits today including the phosphate kit. My pics don't do the rock justice, they are with a phone and you cannot see how purple (Yes I know what coraline looks like not an idjit) they are getting. My tank was near the end of it's cycle and I plan on checking the system for hours before I trust it for the overflow/return.

I have read and read just wanted to know how it should be plummed not your horror experience. I have gotten input from at least 8 other people before you came in and smashed it so understand why I got po, you have no input for last 3 weeks then smash it the one time you give any input. Not a nice thing to do, and I do have more than one forum I am on so I have already talked to them and per at least 10 others it will be fine until I can upgrade to a 20 long for the sump.

So please make sure you read the whole thread before you respond again. I don't like when I get thrashed by someone I haven't even see a post from.

#40
Woogalie

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Sorry, I come across harsh sometimes especially on the net. Im trying to help, not bash you! Promise.

If your really sorry, then do something about your online ego and quit writing novels of junk on this person's thread.

FICANDY
Your tank is looking good! Also I see your testing a lot and keepin up on things. Great job!

NM the haters. I got a few tasteless comments on mine thread too.

Edited by Woogalie, 07 September 2011 - 10:29 AM.


#41
chrishayes

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Ok, first I read your ENTIRE thread. You asked whether your sump would work and if you should put this in it or that in it and your husband is going to do the plumbing because you dont understand it. No one gave you any ideas. How do I know someone didnt tell you to get this wetdry for your reef? Why would you want me to tell you itll be awesome? I could do that like everyone else just so you can reply to me with a smily face. It doesnt change the fact that its a wet dry filter not setup to do what you want with it (Plus you ask "that is all I need to keep if flood proof correct?")and uses an overflow that is known to flood as a rule not an exception.

Then you say " He says its BR now as it has been in a bucket with a air stone for 2 weeks" "how can I pass up $1/lb live rock". These types of situations stem from someone breaking a tank down due to neglect and posting it on craigslist to get rid of it. God knows how long that 2 weeks REALLY was...some people dont know the difference between saturated live rock and fresh good clean rock and setup a tank with it only to have problems the life of the tank. I dont know if you are that type of person or not, Just tryin to save you that trouble by suggesting you test for PO4. How is this bashing, its blunt but I have no grudge against you nor anyone and wouldnt and havent ever posted for any other reason than to help or compliment. Check my posts if ya want.

geesh guys

#42
FlCandy

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OK I also stated after that as I decided not to get the rock, that I found different rock for 3 a pound and it's fiji live, missed that entirely.

I have listened and this is a for now SUMP not permanent, I have heard nothing bad re this overflow (I have read reviews), just that you need to keep it primed with a venturi, and I plan on doing that.

And the ball valve on the return so I can control the flow, per every thread I have checked on the SUMP/reefgum plumbing that is how you prevent overflows correct?


Thanks Woogalie I appreciate it, the LFS didn't have the kit I wanted to get today so I am going back tomorrow for the Reefmaster kit as I will need it soon anyways and it has the phos test in it.

I will let you know then, and I am getting that Mag7 tomorrow.

I am moving forward and I plan on upgrading to a DIY soon just can't yet, so this is a FOR NOW situation.

Thanks again for the people who actually gave me some useful information and suggestions! Those were helpful.

#43
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use a T-connecter, and put the ball valve on that. that way the pump isn't being restricted, and you can use the extra flow to further circulate the sump.

tip by j-ranko to d' espresso to me to you

#44
FlCandy

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use a T-connecter, and put the ball valve on that. that way the pump isn't being restricted, and you can use the extra flow to further circulate the sump.

tip by j-ranko to d' espresso to me to you


Thanks got a good pic of how you did it?

#45
Squared

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Posted Image


you can see it in this pic

#46
FlCandy

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Yeah thats cool, it branches off the main line so you can control the amount it is pushing back into the tank, cool. No restriction of the pump there, NICE! ;)

#47
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Got a new Thermometer today, apparently the one I had was no good (stupid stick on one) as it was reading 84 and the new floating glass one is reading at 78-79.

Guess the lights aren't heating the tank up too much, hmmmm.... need to check a few hours after lights out tonight with the air down and see what happens....

#48
Woogalie

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!! Nice work on that Squared

Im so excited to see this reef come up FICANDY!!!!!

#49
FlCandy

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!! Nice work on that Squared

Im so excited to see this reef come up FICANDY!!!!!


So am I!

I have something else to say!

Wait for it, wait for it... MAGFLOATS ARE AMAZING! omgomgomg
Only one I had was a cheepo knockoff brand and it sucked and fell apart a year ago, this is heavy duty!

#50
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So I retested this morning before work and!

SG 1.026 on hydrometer, I am still stunned that the crazy LFS that checked it for me read 1.028 on refractometer. (I don't think they have it calibrated right, as they suck with everything else too)
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0 ( :happydance: )
Nitrate 0 ( :blink: omgomgomg ) (I haven't done a water change yet? Is my skimmer just that good?)
Temp 79F

Sadly I do have Phosphates 0.5ppm (Have tested sources and the LFS who sold me Sea Water from their tanks has 2.0 and said .5 was nothing and theirs was 0!) So I know where it came from. <_<

Now I have some work to do, I have to do a large water change this week Wednesday when I get the $$$ and then the following Wednesday as well. I have a LFS that runs RODI with a double DI filter, and mixes water as well.

What should I put in the Fluval for now? I have 2 baskets that are split in the center for material, I plan on GFO for the first one after the bio rings, then carbon?

Also can I get a media basket and have it hanging in the tank for growth or would my small clear breeder box work? I can't run lights 24/7 as I have to now get a CUC, can I put them in there and still get the phosphates down? :huh: I have some GHA and an seeing some

I will hold off on the fish for another few weeks as I need to get it under control and get my DIY SUMP made (I am just going to do the larger one from the start at least I have everything else ready).

Any other suggestions on how to lower the Phosphates?

I am currently seeing a sprouting of Calothrix, Diatoms and I think a small patch of Red Slime Algae, not sure it's in a dark spot I think it may just be the shadow and my paranoia.

So I would prefer to get this now before it fully takes over and get the CUC and phosphate binders running.

Thanks guys and gals for your help.

Edited by FlCandy, 09 September 2011 - 05:12 PM.