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#26
rbtwo4

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i have flickr but cant figure how to get pic on site. need "Posting pics on NR for dummies" lol

#27
rbtwo4

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Watkins Glen 2 370 by rbtwo4, on Flickr

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Watkins Glen 2 by rbtwo4, on Flickr

#28
SouthFlorida_Tron

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#2 is amazing. Very nice.

#1 something just doesn't do it for me, looks a bit much on the vibrance or saturation, IMO :)

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#29
rbtwo4

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might be vibrance cus i really dont use saturation. i was fiddling with lightroom as im still new to it. but that pic isnt even of my house lol i just drove by it and thought it would make a nice picture lol

#30
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D-wades house
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House That Wade Built by SFL_Tron, on Flickr

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Downtown Miami, FL by SFL_Tron, on Flickr

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#31
TheWAND

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The last set looks good, but you should try to get rid of that greenish blue tint in the pictures. In Lightroom 3 you can just go to split toning and up the saturation of the highlights to red just a tiny tiny bit and it will give it a more natural look.

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#32
SouthFlorida_Tron

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ya i had a hard time with the colors on these cuz it was a smoggy, cloudy day and the sun was still beatng, plus i forgot my kaeseman polarizer, which helps alot with the clouds...

these were just messing around after visiting the museum just near there....




PS: going to be shooting pics of my car soon, any advice? got new wheels :)

Edited by SouthFlorida_Tron, 03 February 2012 - 09:23 PM.

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#33
TheWAND

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Ah the clouds make sense with the color. I don't do cars much myself, so if I was going to be taking pictures of my car, I would fill up a memory card and while uploading that to my hard drive, I would probably fill up another memory card. Product and car shots are all about finding the perfect angle and distance, and then finding the perfect exposure and lighting. The only way to find out is by trying everything until you get what you like.

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#34
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word

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#35
Withers

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my god could your sig be any more obnoxious?

#36
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#37
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my god could your sig be any more obnoxious?

Only for 3 more weeks. I know right,I hate it to, believe me...

^word

+1

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#38
asting

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With car shots it's all about your light source. Use something big and as close as you can get to create large even catch lights. Also, your engagement shoot seemed under exposed by a stop or two to me.

#39
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With car shots it's all about your light source. Use something big and as close as you can get to create large even catch lights. Also, your engagement shoot seemed under exposed by a stop or two to me.

Thx, ya next on my list is a speed lite flash, still using onboard.

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#40
Withers

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For cars, I would shoot late in the day, probably start around an hour before sunset. Expose for the car and bring the sky back in post processing. Like previously said, it's all about finding the right angle to make the car look good. Some cars look good from pretty much any angle, but they're few and far between.

Even if the car is static (chances are it will be), make sure you frame the shot so that the car has space to move into. Backgrounds are KEY to automotive photography. You typically don't want something super cluttered as it will cast all kinds of crappy reflections on your car that you definitely won't want and be a distraction over all.

There are all kinds of little things not to do, but you'll get it eventually
1. Slightly turn your wheels so that they are more visible, but don't make them parallel to the camera.
2. Shooting from down low is usually better than from up high (but not always)

I have examples but I don't really want to muck up your thread with my pictures.

What kind of car do you have? Color? Which wheels did you get? :)

Edited by VicSkimmr, 06 February 2012 - 01:03 PM.


#41
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Few just to show! (iPhone)

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#42
Withers

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I have a MkIV GLI!

You're lucky in that you have a silver car as they're by far the easiest to photograph.

#43
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:ninja:

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#44
asting

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Thx, ya next on my list is a speed lite flash, still using onboard.

Good plan. Look into External flashes and triggering sets. I would skip the super high price flash set ups and go with a more simple manual approach. Yongnuo makes some decent cheap flashes. Get that, a trigger, and an umbrella/softbox and you'll come out close to ~$100. You will have to walk to the flash and manually adjust the output level, but that's the drawback for something that costs ~15% as much as the namebrand full feature flashes.

Edited by asting, 07 February 2012 - 08:13 AM.


#45
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Good plan. Look into External flashes and triggering sets. I would skip the super high price flash set ups and go with a more simple manual approach. Yongnuo makes some decent cheap flashes. Get that, a trigger, and an umbrella/softbox and you'll come out close to ~$100. You will have to walk to the flash and manually adjust the output level, but that's the drawback for something that costs ~15% as much as the namebrand full feature flashes.

im not THAT into photography lol, i was just thinking the 430ex II speedlite flash on hot shoe lol

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#46
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#47
asting

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im not THAT into photography lol, i was just thinking the 430ex II speedlite flash on hot shoe lol

Doh!

It kills me when people buy expensive flashes but keep them on camera.

On camera flashes make everything look flat and dull. Getting it off axis will allow for more dynamic lighting and a more interesting look.

#48
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Doh!

It kills me when people buy expensive flashes but keep them on camera.

On camera flashes make everything look flat and dull. Getting it off axis will allow for more dynamic lighting and a more interesting look.



IR wireless flash control is one of the many reasons I am gonna pick me up a Canon 7D.

#49
TheWAND

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IR wireless flash control is one of the many reasons I am gonna pick me up a Canon 7D.

ST-E2 is best bet for off camera. It makes it much easier to upgrade to Radiopoppers, which I mush prefer over PocketWizards for rf flash triggering. Right now my setup is an ST-E2, a 580ex ii, and a 550ex. This allows for super versatile flash setups all while still using the Canon flash controls so that you don't have to relearn a whole new system like you would have to with the PocketWizards. I'm not sure, but I think the 7D uses a preflash with the on-camera flash to trigger off camera flashes, and I also think the 60D has the same feature built in.

Edited by TheWAND, 07 February 2012 - 05:08 PM.

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#50
Bishop

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ST-E2 is best bet for off camera. It makes it much easier to upgrade to Radiopoppers, which I mush prefer over PocketWizards for rf flash triggering. Right now my setup is an ST-E2, a 580ex ii, and a 550ex. This allows for super versatile flash setups all while still using the Canon flash controls so that you don't have to relearn a whole new system like you would have to with the PocketWizards. I'm not sure, but I think the 7D uses a preflash with the on-camera flash to trigger off camera flashes, and I also think the 60D has the same feature built in.


Most of all this is Greek to me. I want the 7D. I have no plans to go into full frame cameras and it is the best I can afford. Then I know I want a great wireless flash system. That is kinda where my problem is. The ST-E2 and 580ex IIs sound like a really great combo but I don't know anything about it to be honest. The price is a lotta bit high as well.

Is there a cheaper method that would be more appealing to me? What would I look for in a flash to have a decent wireless system? My brother has a cheap flash that runs off of visual of the camera flash. This I do not like because I may not want to use my camera flash at all.

Looking at the basic info on your pieces, this does sound like something I would like, a bit lower class of flash for less money though. My only requirement is that is is Canon brand when at all possible. I mostly operate with mid grade gear and want to keep it there when possible.

Thanx.

New Flash and Wireless Flash Control. The 7D is the first Canon EOS to come with an Integrated Speedlite Transmitter. The system allows to control up to three groups of four flashes each. With 15mm the built-in flash features wider flash coverage than previous models. Its guide number is 12/39 (ISO 100, in meters/feet).


Edited by Bishop, 07 February 2012 - 08:08 PM.